Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!
Arch

Fortiter,

have you tried dry ice on one end and a tourchor heat gun on the
other? old Indian trick

HTH
Dale

Arch wrote in message
...
Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!
Arch

Fortiter,

Arch wrote:

Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!
Arch

Fortiter,

How far below the tang slot is the end of the center?
Could you get a piece of steel the thickness of the slot and
narrow enough to reach the center and then use a steel wedge to
drive out the center? If you could rotate this rectangle of steel
when it's in the center of the extender it wouldn't come out of
the slot when you drive the wedge.

Just a thought
ARM

Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!

What if you put it in a pot of water and put the whole thing in the
freezer. It's possible that as the water freezes, the expanding ice
will force the taper out.

Rust is an issue, but my guess is that the couple of hours it takes
for the water to freeze should be quick enough for this not to be a
problem.

Arch - I have one of those too!

Ray


"Arch" wrote in message
...
Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!
Arch

Fortiter,

Arch: Any way to use a wheel/pulley puller on this momma? A couple of pipe
wrenches? A small amount of C-4? *G* There may be some scoring of the
extender and the MT? If all else fails, then live with it and buy another
extender a new MT. You Florida fellers are rich, so you can afford it!

Leif

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!
Arch

Fortiter,

In message
(Arch) wrote:

Many woodturning accessories (centers, arbors, etc.) have Morse tapers
with solid shafts and no tangs. Recently, in a junior moment, I put
such a center into a MT2 to MT2 extender. The extender has a tang slot,
but the center's taper did not reach it.
I really leaned on the handwheel to secure a heavy blank. Now I own a
dedicated extender with a built in Nova spur center.
So far heat, cold, WD40, pounding, hammer drill, cursing and sweet talk
haven't prevailed against that reluctant taper. I tried a short pin thru
the slot and into the hole to reach the center's tip so as to use a
drift. To get thru the slot the pin had to be so much smaller than the
hole that the drift canted the pin and it wouldn't budge the center.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!
Arch

Fortiter,

I have a memory from my school days of a metalwork teacher
demonstrating the morse taper. He used two equal size hammers to remove
the chuck and taper from a pillar drill by hitting opposite sides of the
shaft holding the taper with the two hammers together and it dropped
out. Has anyone else seen or tried that?

Dave Lawson
Redditch UK

dalecue wrote:

have you tried dry ice on one end and a tourchor heat gun on the
other? old Indian trick



The heat on the outside will cause the metal to expand. It isn't a mind
reader. It can make the ID smaller. However cold on the outside will
shrink it, causing the ID to increase (you would have to agree to that,
right?). This is a school kids science experiment. When you see it work
with heat, it just losend it probably because of differential heating
and its affects and is erroniously attributed to the outside piece's ID
getting bigger, but didn't. So heat and cold does losen things, just not
like a lot of people think.

John

Man, vibration wil tear down anything. Wonder if there some way you
could tap it when it is cold to help it release?

On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 13:31:27 -0400, Eddie Munster
wrote:



dalecue wrote:

have you tried dry ice on one end and a tourchor heat gun on the
other? old Indian trick



The heat on the outside will cause the metal to expand. It isn't a mind
reader. It can make the ID smaller. However cold on the outside will
shrink it, causing the ID to increase (you would have to agree to that,
right?). This is a school kids science experiment. When you see it work
with heat, it just losend it probably because of differential heating
and its affects and is erroniously attributed to the outside piece's ID
getting bigger, but didn't. So heat and cold does losen things, just not
like a lot of people think.

John

The heat on the outside will cause the metal to expand. It isn't a mind
reader. It can make the ID smaller. However cold on the outside will
shrink it, causing the ID to increase (you would have to agree to that,
right?). This is a school kids science experiment. When you see it work
with heat, it just losend it probably because of differential heating
and its affects and is erroniously attributed to the outside piece's ID
getting bigger, but didn't. So heat and cold does losen things, just not
like a lot of people think.

It doesn't work quite like that. As another mind experiment, consider heating
a solid disc of metal. The only point that doesn't expand is the very center
point. Any other point on the disc outside of the center moves away from the
center.

Now, consider a metal doughnut. Heat it up the same way as the solid disc.
Every point on the doughnut will still move away from the center of rotation.
The entire ring gets bigger.

Earle Rich
Mont Vernon, NH

Arch,

I cannot picture what the problem is, but I had a stuck drive spur in
my PM 3520 and the PM technician got it out with a pipe wrench and the
shaft lock. I tried all the heat/cold and hammering. It was the
twisting moment that freed it up.

Also, have you read about using two opposed nuts like a puller? I
don't know if there is a way to cut some nuts and get them behind the
MT2.

One other thing, I like what that guy from the UK said about the two
hammers. Seems like I have heard of this also. I think the less
deading of the vibration there is the more success you will have.
Maybe do it suspended from something.

RP

Eddie Munster wrote: The heat on the outside will cause the metal to
expand. It isn't a mind reader. It can make the ID smaller. However cold on
the outside will shrink it, causing the ID to increase (you would have to
agree to that, right?
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Wrong! An object, of whatever shape, expands and contracts overall. Any
holes expand at the same rate as the solid parts. This was thoroughly
discussed on the metaloworking newsgroup, and I don't feel like going
through the complete discussion again, but: when a ring expands, the OD,
the ID, the wall thickness, and the hole all expand. It's like an image
being enlarged slightly.

Arch, I did the same thing and couldn't get it out so I put a heavy screwdriver
in the slot and turned the center out with a pipe wrench.
Moral: when you insert a taper, be sure you have a way of removing it!


Bob, Naugatuck Ct.
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com