Sure, though the newer lathe types with the rotating headstocks don't really
need 'em. It's the older types where it was a benefit, as it allowed
"outboard" turning.

I've got one of the old Deltas, and turning outboard demands en
exceptionally firm hold on the piece, because you can't use the tailstock to
help out.

"Lynn Coffelt" wrote in message
news:MbgMa.75087$R73.8895@sccrnsc04...
I've been lurking, waiting for someone to ask this question. Apparently
I'm
the only really ignorant one here, so here goes.

Do some lathes have LH and RH threads on the spindle? (on opposite ends I
presume)

Thanks, George!

"George" wrote in message
news
Sure, though the newer lathe types with the rotating headstocks don't
really
need 'em. It's the older types where it was a benefit, as it allowed
"outboard" turning.

I've got one of the old Deltas, and turning outboard demands en
exceptionally firm hold on the piece, because you can't use the tailstock
to
help out.

"Lynn Coffelt" wrote in message
news:MbgMa.75087$R73.8895@sccrnsc04...
I've been lurking, waiting for someone to ask this question. Apparently
I'm
the only really ignorant one here, so here goes.

Do some lathes have LH and RH threads on the spindle? (on opposite ends
I
presume)

I would suggest that the newer lightweight lathes tend to have
rotating headstocks, but then they don't usually have a threaded
spindle on both sides of the headstock, either (Jet, Delta, Etc) Most
bigger lathes do have twin spindles, one inboard (RH), and one
outboard (LH). Some medium to large commercial lathes have only one
threaded spindle nose, but the headstock slides all the way to the end
of the bed for non-reversed outboard turning.

It is probably wise to get the dual-threaded insert for your chuck if
you think bigger pieces and outboard turning are in your future, or,
if your lathe doesn't support that method, if you can envision taking
your chuck to someone else's lathe to turn a big bowl outboard. (For
example I can only turn 12" inboard on my lathe, and used my equipment
to turn a 15" piece on the outboard side of my dad's lathe.) The only
drawback seems to be how easily the chuck will thread on to the
spindle -- some report a dedicated RH thread is easier to get on
straight with less fussing. I use a dual-thread chuck insert whenever
I turn in my dad's shop, and I'm not sure I ever noticed the
difference.

The only stupid question is the one that you didn't ask, and an injury
results ...

Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje
Thetford, VT

Your presumption is correct, opposite ends.

I have one faceplate with both lh and rh threads cut on the same bore.
With my variable speed Delta/Rockwell the faceplate will spin off when I
stop the lathe - not a pleasant experience when you have a heavy turning
block on board. Based on my experience wih this cleap face plate (from
Harbor Freight or Grizzly or one of their competitors I don't remember
which) I would not recommend a double threaded faceplate. Maybe a
quality product could be double threaded and perform suitably, I tend to
doubt it because the contact area is reduced by the extra cuts needed to
get the other thread.

Bottom line, get the insert for inboard use and if you ever want/need to
go outboard then get the lh insert.

Dan


Lynn Coffelt wrote:
I've been lurking, waiting for someone to ask this question. Apparently I'm
the only really ignorant one here, so here goes.

Do some lathes have LH and RH threads on the spindle? (on opposite ends I
presume)

Lynn (green lurker)

"Frank A." wrote in message
...

I've had my lathe since Easter and I'm ready to buy a scroll chuck. So

far

I've been using homemade wooden faceplates thanks to Darrell's Feltmate's
tips.

I need help with the insert. I need a 1 x 8 tpi insert and have 2

choices;

1 x 8 RH and 1 x 8 R&LH.
I know I need the RH but why wouldn't I want a R&LH? Is there a draw back
to the combination insert?

Dan,

I think your problem must be because it's cheap. I've got a 6"
faceplate & an Axminster chuck, both cross-threaded RH/LH and have
never had a problem with either.

Larry