Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's very
green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank is very
wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would probably call
it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying, brown paper sack, add
sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying so any help would be
appreciated such as to the best method, storage and such. It's winter
here right now and we're having high 30's during the day and 20's at
night right now. I'm doing practice turnings on my new to me Jet 1236.
I've been away from turning awhile. Thanks, Jim

--

JimJames wrote:

Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's very
green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank is very
wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would probably call
it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying, brown paper sack, add
sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying so any help would be
appreciated such as to the best method, storage and such. It's winter
here right now and we're having high 30's during the day and 20's at
night right now. I'm doing practice turnings on my new to me Jet 1236.
I've been away from turning awhile. Thanks, Jim

--

Jim, it depends on just how impatient you are. Of course considering your
temps, drying is going to be quite a bit slower for you (right now IGoogle
tells me it is 65 degrees outside - I keep telling my brother there was a
reason I retried to Alabama)

The brown paper bag works well, it just takes awhile (this is what I usually
do). If you are going that route, or the sawdust route, get yourself a
postal scale. Weight it when you put it in the bag (I write the weight and
date on the bowl) then weight it every couple of months. When it starts
losing weight slowly, weight it more often. When it stops losing weight,
its as dry as its going to get and ready to finish turning.

As for the microwave (aaaawww, instant gratification :-0 ).
Turn it to nearly finished, nuke it (I run it on the defrost setting for
7min 45sec (its an auto setting on that partucular microwave) and keep
hitting it, with short cool down periods, until you quit getting steam. Put
it on the lathe and do any last minute touch ups with the tools, sand and
finish.

Hope that helps.

Deb

Dr. Deb wrote:


JimJames wrote:

Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's
very green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank
is very wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would
probably call it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying,
brown paper sack, add sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying
so any help would be appreciated such as to the best method,
storage and such. It's winter here right now and we're having high
30's during the day and 20's at night right now. I'm doing practice
turnings on my new to me Jet 1236. I've been away from turning
awhile. Thanks, Jim

--

Jim, it depends on just how impatient you are. Of course considering
your temps, drying is going to be quite a bit slower for you (right
now IGoogle tells me it is 65 degrees outside - I keep telling my
brother there was a reason I retried to Alabama)

The brown paper bag works well, it just takes awhile (this is what I
usually do). If you are going that route, or the sawdust route, get
yourself a postal scale. Weight it when you put it in the bag (I
write the weight and date on the bowl) then weight it every couple of
months. When it starts losing weight slowly, weight it more often.
When it stops losing weight, its as dry as its going to get and ready
to finish turning.

As for the microwave (aaaawww, instant gratification :-0 ).
Turn it to nearly finished, nuke it (I run it on the defrost setting
for 7min 45sec (its an auto setting on that partucular microwave) and
keep hitting it, with short cool down periods, until you quit getting
steam. Put it on the lathe and do any last minute touch ups with the
tools, sand and finish.

Hope that helps.

Deb

Thanks, I'm also retired but in Idaho. I'll brown bag it and turn
another one out of another chunk of the same wood and try the microwave
method also. I'll visit one of the local thrift stores for a Microwave.
Jim

--

James wrote:

Dr. Deb wrote:


JimJames wrote:

Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's
very green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank
is very wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would
probably call it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying,
brown paper sack, add sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying
so any help would be appreciated such as to the best method,
storage and such. It's winter here right now and we're having high
30's during the day and 20's at night right now. I'm doing practice
turnings on my new to me Jet 1236. I've been away from turning
awhile. Thanks, Jim

--

Jim, it depends on just how impatient you are. Of course considering
your temps, drying is going to be quite a bit slower for you (right
now IGoogle tells me it is 65 degrees outside - I keep telling my
brother there was a reason I retried to Alabama)

The brown paper bag works well, it just takes awhile (this is what I
usually do). If you are going that route, or the sawdust route, get
yourself a postal scale. Weight it when you put it in the bag (I
write the weight and date on the bowl) then weight it every couple of
months. When it starts losing weight slowly, weight it more often.
When it stops losing weight, its as dry as its going to get and ready
to finish turning.

As for the microwave (aaaawww, instant gratification :-0 ).
Turn it to nearly finished, nuke it (I run it on the defrost setting
for 7min 45sec (its an auto setting on that partucular microwave) and
keep hitting it, with short cool down periods, until you quit getting
steam. Put it on the lathe and do any last minute touch ups with the
tools, sand and finish.

Hope that helps.

Deb

Thanks, I'm also retired but in Idaho. I'll brown bag it and turn
another one out of another chunk of the same wood and try the microwave
method also. I'll visit one of the local thrift stores for a Microwave.
Jim

--

That tends to rescue you from the "little woman's ire." Somehow, they just
do not understand about us running our turning projects through "their"
microwave. lol

Really, you are doing exactly the right thing. You are checking out various
techniques and seeing which one you like the best.

Enjoy

Deb

On 12/21/2011 11:50 AM, James wrote:
Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's very
green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank is very
wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would probably call
it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying, brown paper sack, add
sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying so any help would be
appreciated such as to the best method, storage and such. It's winter
here right now and we're having high 30's during the day and 20's at
night right now. I'm doing practice turnings on my new to me Jet 1236.
I've been away from turning awhile. Thanks, Jim


nobody has said this so i will - put it outside so it freezes hard -
that will rupture the cell walls (with ice crystals) and reduce the
potential for distortion and cracking. to speed up the "processing" you
could bring it in for a day, then put it outside for a day - repeat
several times.

I tend to turn wet wood to final (thin) dimensions in one shot and never
come back to it, just sand and finish - you didn't say how thick you
left the walls - I often aim for 1/16th or so on "active" wood like
eucalyptus, and 1/8 to 3/16 on more stable woods

Bill wrote:

On 12/21/2011 11:50 AM, James wrote:
Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's
very green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank
is very wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would
probably call it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying,
brown paper sack, add sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying
so any help would be appreciated such as to the best method,
storage and such. It's winter here right now and we're having high
30's during the day and 20's at night right now. I'm doing practice
turnings on my new to me Jet 1236. I've been away from turning
awhile. Thanks, Jim


nobody has said this so i will - put it outside so it freezes hard -
that will rupture the cell walls (with ice crystals) and reduce the
potential for distortion and cracking. to speed up the "processing"
you could bring it in for a day, then put it outside for a day -
repeat several times.

I tend to turn wet wood to final (thin) dimensions in one shot and
never come back to it, just sand and finish - you didn't say how
thick you left the walls - I often aim for 1/16th or so on "active"
wood like eucalyptus, and 1/8 to 3/16 on more stable woods

I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is
getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the tang
just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working good. I
welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was a welder
forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll use it for
light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a Disson. I've
had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago. A question on
roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used for bowls or
should one get one of each? Jim

--

On 12/22/2011 03:19 PM, James wrote:

I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is

You can take more out of the bottom. It's the sides that move most.
The bottom is more stable.


getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the tang
just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working good. I
welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was a welder
forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll use it for
light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a Disson. I've
had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago. A question on
roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used for bowls or
should one get one of each? Jim

You should never use a spindle roughing gouge on a bowl. Get a bowl
gouge. They don't have tangs - they're solid bars with the flute milled
in them. If you're doing spindle work a spindle roughing gouge is good
to have but if you're going to focus on bowls just get bowl gouges. A
couple sizes is good - I like a large one (3/4" diameter bar) for big
bowls, and a 1/2" bar for smaller and general purpose use.

Note that an American made tool uses the bar diameter as a measurement
whereas the English tools use the flute size. Thus, a Robert Sorby 3/8"
bowl gouge is what is called a 1/2" bowl gouge on this side of the
puddle. Pay attention when you order our you may get the wrong size.

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 18:19:10 -0600, James wrote
(in message ):

Bill wrote:

On 12/21/2011 11:50 AM, James wrote:


re the welded gouge... consider annealing the shaft in the area of the weld.
The softer metal will be much less likely to break at the weld. This is
usually carbon steel and gets pretty brittle around an arc weld. Annealing
may save it for you.

As for the freezing route, there are two things to consider. If the moisture
level is high enough, when the wood and water freeze, the water will expand
and could split your bowl. Lots of trees get cracks in them from this kind
of freezing action. OTOH, if the bowl does not split, just leave it in the
freezer. Ever hear of freezer burn? The moisture sublimates out of the item
in the freezer, whether wood or steak, leaving a dried surface behind. Good
for wood, not so good for steak. Some taxidermists will use freeze
sublimation on fluffy and fido for those folks who want to preserve their pet
- is cheaper than conventional taxidermy, with skinning and tanning and then
mounting on a form, etc. A bowl that is turned to a relative thin
cross-section should freeze dry nicely if it does not split.
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

On 12/22/2011 4:19 PM, James wrote:
Bill wrote:

On 12/21/2011 11:50 AM, James wrote:
Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's
very green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The blank
is very wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South they would
probably call it grease wood. I've heard of various of drying,
brown paper sack, add sawdust and microwave oven. I'm new to drying
so any help would be appreciated such as to the best method,
storage and such. It's winter here right now and we're having high
30's during the day and 20's at night right now. I'm doing practice
turnings on my new to me Jet 1236. I've been away from turning
awhile. Thanks, Jim


nobody has said this so i will - put it outside so it freezes hard -
that will rupture the cell walls (with ice crystals) and reduce the
potential for distortion and cracking. to speed up the "processing"
you could bring it in for a day, then put it outside for a day -
repeat several times.

I tend to turn wet wood to final (thin) dimensions in one shot and
never come back to it, just sand and finish - you didn't say how
thick you left the walls - I often aim for 1/16th or so on "active"
wood like eucalyptus, and 1/8 to 3/16 on more stable woods

I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is
getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the tang
just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working good. I
welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was a welder
forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll use it for
light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a Disson. I've
had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago. A question on
roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used for bowls or
should one get one of each? Jim


1. never ever ever EVER ever !!!! use a spindle roughing gouge on a bowl
- in fact, you might be well served by putting it in a different room
when working on bowls - never use a regular bowl gouge either

2. you left the walls and bottom very thick by my standards but maybe
what we are aiming for is different (there is a gallery of some of my
stuff at www.wbnoble.com - click hobbies/wood turning and find the
gallery link) - I like reasonably thin walls (usually, unless the shape
wants thick), I like distortion and discoloration, and so on. So I turn
to final dimensions and sand it right away. Rarely does this fail me -
for some woods, boiling or freezing reduces distortion and cracking - if
you do that, then you need to resand afterwords

In article ,
"James" wrote:



I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is

Just to pile on. The bottom is too thick

The theory for wet turning is the wall thickness should be about 10% of
the diameter, and the bottom should be a little thinner then the walls

getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the tang
just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working good. I
welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was a welder
forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll use it for
light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a Disson. I've
had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago. A question on
roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used for bowls or
should one get one of each? Jim

I think you have learned why NOT to do this (there are You-Tube videos
showing and explaining why not to do this)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Bill wrote:

On 12/22/2011 4:19 PM, James wrote:
Bill wrote:

On 12/21/2011 11:50 AM, James wrote:
Hi Group, I just finished rough turning a pine bowl blank that's
very green up until now I've mostly worked with dry wood. The
blank is very wet, we're talking water and pitch, down South
they would probably call it grease wood. I've heard of various
of drying, brown paper sack, add sawdust and microwave oven.
I'm new to drying so any help would be appreciated such as to
the best method, storage and such. It's winter here right now
and we're having high 30's during the day and 20's at night
right now. I'm doing practice turnings on my new to me Jet
1236. I've been away from turning awhile. Thanks, Jim


nobody has said this so i will - put it outside so it freezes
hard - that will rupture the cell walls (with ice crystals) and
reduce the potential for distortion and cracking. to speed up
the "processing" you could bring it in for a day, then put it
outside for a day - repeat several times.

I tend to turn wet wood to final (thin) dimensions in one shot and
never come back to it, just sand and finish - you didn't say how
thick you left the walls - I often aim for 1/16th or so on
"active" wood like eucalyptus, and 1/8 to 3/16 on more stable
woods

I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is
getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the
tang just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working
good. I welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was
a welder forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll
use it for light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a
Disson. I've had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago.
A question on roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used
for bowls or should one get one of each? Jim


1. never ever ever EVER ever !!!! use a spindle roughing gouge on a
bowl - in fact, you might be well served by putting it in a different
room when working on bowls - never use a regular bowl gouge either

2. you left the walls and bottom very thick by my standards but maybe
what we are aiming for is different (there is a gallery of some of my
stuff at www.wbnoble.com - click hobbies/wood turning and find the
gallery link) - I like reasonably thin walls (usually, unless the
shape wants thick), I like distortion and discoloration, and so on.
So I turn to final dimensions and sand it right away. Rarely does
this fail me - for some woods, boiling or freezing reduces distortion
and cracking - if you do that, then you need to resand afterwords

I'm planning on doing the finish turning after it dries. I'm most
playing with it right now. I was looking a set of Savannah tools off of
Amazon to replace my old tools and visiting my local Woodcraft store,
the second eivl store next to Cabela's here locally, and look at bowl
gouges. On the welded tang I let it air cool but I'm still going to
replace it. Here's the link to the tools on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/CHISEL-8-PIECE...S/dp/B004MM3ME
S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I27DEH58YDO2HR&c olid=213MH9T4CDU44

Jim in ID


--

In article ,
"James" wrote:



I'm planning on doing the finish turning after it dries. I'm most
playing with it right now. I was looking a set of Savannah tools off of
Amazon to replace my old tools and visiting my local Woodcraft store,
the second eivl store next to Cabela's here locally, and look at bowl
gouges. On the welded tang I let it air cool but I'm still going to
replace it. Here's the link to the tools on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/CHISEL-8-PIECE...S/dp/B004MM3ME
S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I27DEH58YDO2HR&c olid=213MH9T4CDU44

If you are looking at more inexpensive tools, I recommend Benjamen's
Best from Penn State Industries

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/wo...ing-tools.html

If you want better tools, you might consider M42 tools from D-Way
http://www.d-waytools.com/

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article ,
"James" wrote:



I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is

Just to pile on. The bottom is too thick

The theory for wet turning is the wall thickness should be about 10%
of the diameter, and the bottom should be a little thinner then the
walls

getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the
tang just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working
good. I welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was
a welder forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll
use it for light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a
Disson. I've had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago.
A question on roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used
for bowls or should one get one of each? Jim

I think you have learned why NOT to do this (there are You-Tube
videos showing and explaining why not to do this)

One of the reasons I left the bottom as thick as it is because I don't
have a bowl gouge yet so I quit while I was ahead and had all my pieces
and parts of my body. :) Jim

--