[jtpryan]

In all the woodturning plans I see there is a column for board width. For example:

http://www.segmentedturning.com/imag...hemisphere.gif

How is this figured? I know how to figure angle based on number of segments and length of segment based on circumference. But I don't know how to figure the width of the board used for each ring so that I don't end up with too thin a spot once glued up. Is this figured from just drawing it up or is there a math component? I want to just put together a spreadsheet for this rather then buy software to do it.

Thanks,
Jim

[Ralph E Lindberg]

In article
14432775.1164.1320841223959.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@yqni5,
jtpryan wrote:

In all the woodturning plans I see there is a column for board width. For
example:

http://www.segmentedturning.com/imag...hemisphere.gif

How is this figured? I know how to figure angle based on number of segments
and length of segment based on circumference. But I don't know how to figure
the width of the board used for each ring so that I don't end up with too
thin a spot once glued up. Is this figured from just drawing it up or is
there a math component? I want to just put together a spreadsheet for this
rather then buy software to do it.

Thanks,
Jim

Math. Number of segments and external diameter used to calculate cord
length, which is the length of the segment

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

[Ray[_7_]]

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 04:20:23 -0800 (PST), jtpryan
wrote:

In all the woodturning plans I see there is a column for board width. For example:

http://www.segmentedturning.com/imag...hemisphere.gif

How is this figured? I know how to figure angle based on number of segments and length of segment based on circumference. But I don't know how to figure the width of the board used for each ring so that I don't end up with too thin a spot once glued up. Is this figured from just drawing it up or is there a math component? I want to just put together a spreadsheet for this rather then buy software to do it.

Thanks,
Jim

There must be a way to calculate it, but I find it easier to just
measure it off a drawing. There is a picture of my doing this on my
bowl page near the bottom at:

http://ray80538.home.comcast.net/~ra...l/segbowl.html

I do some bowls using a scroll saw to cut the rings. This is more
economical on the wood.

Ray

[DJ Delorie]

The extra width you need depends on a lot of factors, including how many
segments you have in each ring. There's a bunch of trig involved.

Try this: http://www.delorie.com/wood/segturn.html

That page will do the math for you.

[jtpryan]

Thank you. But it's not the length I need, that is relatively easy. It is the width, as in the difference between the short length and the long length. So I know how wide a strip of board I need to cut.

Jim

[jtpryan]

Right, I have segments.exe that does a similar thing. What I need to figure though is the width I need in order to overlay the ring below enough that there won't be a gap.

Say for instance I want to build a bowl that has a 10" top diameter and is 3" high from the table it sits on. I want a graceful curve in to the bottom. How do I figure out how wide a board to use in each ring so that when assembled and placed over the ring below I know the overlap will be enough to allow me to turn it say 1/8" think without poking a hole in it? Maybe I'm just over thinking it and should go with boards that would definitely not have this problem and have a little more waste.

-Jim

[Dan Kozar[_2_]]

In article
3451703.538.1320874210986.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbct14,
jtpryan wrote:

Thank you. But it's not the length I need, that is relatively easy. It is
the width, as in the difference between the short length and the long length.
So I know how wide a strip of board I need to cut.

Jim


Jim,

I've never done this, but I would probably use somewhere around twice
the wall thickness that you want to end up with. Maybe a bit more in
case of the wood grabbing the gouge,and making a mess. Remember, gouge
presentation to the wood never causes those yucky catches, It is always
the woods fault. :-) Mean old nasty wood!

[Kevin Miller[_2_]]

On 11/09/2011 12:47 PM, jtpryan wrote:
Right, I have segments.exe that does a similar thing. What I need to figure though is the width I need in order to overlay the ring below enough that there won't be a gap.

Say for instance I want to build a bowl that has a 10" top diameter and is 3" high from the table it sits on. I want a graceful curve in to the bottom. How do I figure out how wide a board to use in each ring so that when assembled and placed over the ring below I know the overlap will be enough to allow me to turn it say 1/8" think without poking a hole in it? Maybe I'm just over thinking it and should go with boards that would definitely not have this problem and have a little more waste.

Graph paper or Woodturner Pro: http://www.woodturnerpro.com/ - works a
treat. Free for the first 30 days or something like that.

Give it a try, and if you want to keep doing segmented stuff it's worth
the price of admission. I downloaded it last year. Still need to
pay/register, but it's not the todo list...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

[Nova]

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 13:41:44 -0900, Kevin Miller
wrote:

On 11/09/2011 12:47 PM, jtpryan wrote:
Right, I have segments.exe that does a similar thing. What I need to figure though is the width I need in order to overlay the ring below enough that there won't be a gap.

Say for instance I want to build a bowl that has a 10" top diameter and is 3" high from the table it sits on. I want a graceful curve in to the bottom. How do I figure out how wide a board to use in each ring so that when assembled and placed over the ring below I know the overlap will be enough to allow me to turn it say 1/8" think without poking a hole in it? Maybe I'm just over thinking it and should go with boards that would definitely not have this problem and have a little more waste.

Graph paper or Woodturner Pro: http://www.woodturnerpro.com/ - works a
treat. Free for the first 30 days or something like that.

Give it a try, and if you want to keep doing segmented stuff it's worth
the price of admission. I downloaded it last year. Still need to
pay/register, but it's not the todo list...

...Kevin

There's is also Kevin Neeley's software for just under $20 at:

http://www.turnedwood.com/software.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

[tom koehler]

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 15:47:22 -0600, jtpryan wrote
(in message
31746609.640.1320875242123.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbac9):

Right, I have segments.exe that does a similar thing. What I need to figure
though is the width I need in order to overlay the ring below enough that
there won't be a gap.

Say for instance I want to build a bowl that has a 10" top diameter and is
3" high from the table it sits on. I want a graceful curve in to the
bottom. How do I figure out how wide a board to use in each ring so that
when assembled and placed over the ring below I know the overlap will be
enough to allow me to turn it say 1/8" think without poking a hole in it?
Maybe I'm just over thinking it and should go with boards that would
definitely not have this problem and have a little more waste.

-Jim

well, I just went right to the ol' reptile brain, and made a couple of
drawings. One, from the top view gave me an idea just how much width I'd need
in a board in order to give me the wall thickness I thought I'd make, for the
number of segments I felt I could do. The other drawing was a side elevation
of sorts, showing the thickness of the board - or layer, if you will. In
laying out a likely curve for the shape or profile of the project, I could
see that layers with the greatest diameter change would also need the
greatest segment strip width.

So, wall thickness and rate of change of diameter will both figure into how
wide your segment strips will need to be for any given layer. If you use math
to calculate this information, you will need matematical precision in your
tool handling and wood removal, too. Personally, I go for the reptile brain
approach. I may use a bit more wood, but I also get a bit more wiggle room in
my design. The variability in any given sample of wood kinda demands some
wiggle room. In my opinion.

Respectfully, tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

[Fred Holder[_2_]]

On Nov 9, 7:15*am, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article
14432775.1164.1320841223959.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@yqni5,

*jtpryan wrote:
In all the woodturning plans I see there is a column for board width. *For
example:

http://www.segmentedturning.com/imag...hemisphere.gif

How is this figured? *I know how to figure angle based on number of segments
and length of segment based on circumference. *But I don't know how to figure
the width of the board used for each ring so that I don't end up with too
thin a spot once glued up. *Is this figured from just drawing it up or is
there a math component? *I want to just put together a spreadsheet for this
rather then buy software to do it.

Thanks,
Jim

Math. * Number of segments and external diameter used to calculate cord
length, which is the length of the segment

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found athttp://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

I agree with Kevin that WoodturnerPro is an excellent choice for
designing segmented pieces; however, I have always felt that it is
best to do a plan drawing of the expected finished piece. Do this on
grid paper preferable with a 1/4 inch grid, or any grid that will work
with the thickness of wood that you expect to use. I generally used
3/4 inch thick wood; therefore, the 1/4 inch grid works well. Draw
your vessel to size on the grid paper, then starting with the base
draw a horizontal line every 3/4 inch. Now, to be on the safe side,
draw a line for the outside of the piece and for the inside of the
piece. Now, measure the distance between these two lines and add at
least 1/4 inch each side of the vessel walls and draw another line
inside and out. Now at each level, measure the distance between the
inside and outside lines. That should give you a good estimate of the
width of board to cut your segments from at each level. If anything go
on the greatest size. The fewer segments in the rings the more
difficult this is to calculate.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

[Kevin Miller[_2_]]

On 11/09/2011 01:50 PM, Nova wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 13:41:44 -0900, Kevin
wrote:

On 11/09/2011 12:47 PM, jtpryan wrote:
Right, I have segments.exe that does a similar thing. What I need to figure though is the width I need in order to overlay the ring below enough that there won't be a gap.

Say for instance I want to build a bowl that has a 10" top diameter and is 3" high from the table it sits on. I want a graceful curve in to the bottom. How do I figure out how wide a board to use in each ring so that when assembled and placed over the ring below I know the overlap will be enough to allow me to turn it say 1/8" think without poking a hole in it? Maybe I'm just over thinking it and should go with boards that would definitely not have this problem and have a little more waste.

Graph paper or Woodturner Pro: http://www.woodturnerpro.com/ - works a
treat. Free for the first 30 days or something like that.

Give it a try, and if you want to keep doing segmented stuff it's worth
the price of admission. I downloaded it last year. Still need to
pay/register, but it's not the todo list...

...Kevin

There's is also Kevin Neeley's software for just under $20 at:

http://www.turnedwood.com/software.html

I did buy that one many years back and it works a treat. Only thing
with it (at least my version) is it only shows one layer at a time so
you still have the overlap question. Of course, he may well have
updated his software since then...

--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

[Ralph E Lindberg]

In article
3451703.538.1320874210986.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbct14,
jtpryan wrote:

Thank you. But it's not the length I need, that is relatively easy. It is
the width, as in the difference between the short length and the long length.
So I know how wide a strip of board I need to cut.

Jim

That part of the "design" part. It really depends on what you are
planning to do. Which means either graph paper (side-cut view) or
software

https://picasaweb.google.com/1112170...ing#5667198160
746265730

You will note the fill (pink with color spots), where I made a design
error and had to fill with colored epoxy

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv