Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 245
Default More newbie stuff

Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought up
some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still can't
get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a 3/8
think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it done but
when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't have any
fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the vibration. I
thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but I would have
had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't feel
comfortable.

Second project was more interesting - someone gave me a 4x4x3 piece of
Brazilian rosewood so I decided to make a simple cup. First surprise - after
the wax came off the block, the wood was quite wet. Didn't seem to present
any problems cutting. The roughing down was a big surprise. I had the wood
in a chuck so the face grain was towards the tailstock. Even though I cut
some of the corners off with a band saw I really had a tough time roughing
across the end grain. If I hadn't kept a really good grip on the gouge it
would have come out of my hand.

Is this typical with end grain or rosewood or a combination of both?

Once got it close to round, the other cuts went as expected.

After hollowing out I sanded the work. The outside sanded just fine but the
inside of the cup had rough spots on the areas that were end grain. I'm
assuming this is because I used a scraper on the inside and a skew on the
outside. How do you deal with the inside end grain on a cup or a small bowl?

Still having fun!

Vic



--
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
don't

  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 143
Default More newbie stuff

On Sun, 6 Nov 2011 16:05:45 -0800, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

If you're getting a lot of vibration and the piece is in balance, I'd
suspect your technique..
Sharp tools, LIGHT cuts and proper tool angle are critical..

If I'm hollowing end grain with a bowl gouge, I lay the gouge almost
level like a scraper with the flute facing the center of the opening..
It's not the best method, but it works and I feel safe that way..

If you're going to play with scrapers inside bowls and boxes, I'd
STRONGLY suggest investing in a "box rest"..
It's a flat rectangle of steel with a post for the tool rest banjo..
Set up the height so that when the scraper is laying flat on the rest,
the scraper is slightly above center, so that if you raise the handle
a bit you're on center.. MUCH safer and much less vibration..

IMO, vibration is the enemy.. You get tired faster and it's hard to
control the tool..

On rounding the piece, are you working in sweeps from the center to
the outside, of are you trying to round the piece from the outside?
Most new turners will set the toolrest at 90 degrees to the wood and
try rounding it from the side.. Very hard to have a light enough touch
to avoid "clunking"..
Set the rest as if you were shaping the bottom of a bowl and "sneak
up" on the edges by sweeping from center out towards the edges..

Sorry about writing a novel here.. ;(

Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought up
some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still can't
get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a 3/8
think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it done but
when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't have any
fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the vibration. I
thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but I would have
had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't feel
comfortable.

Second project was more interesting - someone gave me a 4x4x3 piece of
Brazilian rosewood so I decided to make a simple cup. First surprise - after
the wax came off the block, the wood was quite wet. Didn't seem to present
any problems cutting. The roughing down was a big surprise. I had the wood
in a chuck so the face grain was towards the tailstock. Even though I cut
some of the corners off with a band saw I really had a tough time roughing
across the end grain. If I hadn't kept a really good grip on the gouge it
would have come out of my hand.

Is this typical with end grain or rosewood or a combination of both?

Once got it close to round, the other cuts went as expected.

After hollowing out I sanded the work. The outside sanded just fine but the
inside of the cup had rough spots on the areas that were end grain. I'm
assuming this is because I used a scraper on the inside and a skew on the
outside. How do you deal with the inside end grain on a cup or a small bowl?

Still having fun!

Vic

  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 245
Default More newbie stuff

Tools sharp - balance fine - it's my technique for sure. The main problem is
after I've hollowed out the sides and am using the scraper to flatten out
the bottom. Probably pushing too hard.

Never heard of the 'box rest' but I'll look for one - it makes sense.

Rounding - yes, I start from center to outside. Since this was the first
time I rounded side and end grain I think I was trying to take too deep a
cut. Probably would have been fine on a pine spindle but rosewood end
grain - I don't know.. Just to be clear - on a spindle between centers, I
start center and sweep to ends. This blank was in a chuck but I did start
and sweep in the same direction as I do a spindle. I'm trying to visualize
rounding the piece from the bottom.

Vic

"Mac Davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 6 Nov 2011 16:05:45 -0800, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

If you're getting a lot of vibration and the piece is in balance, I'd
suspect your technique..
Sharp tools, LIGHT cuts and proper tool angle are critical..

If I'm hollowing end grain with a bowl gouge, I lay the gouge almost
level like a scraper with the flute facing the center of the opening..
It's not the best method, but it works and I feel safe that way..

If you're going to play with scrapers inside bowls and boxes, I'd
STRONGLY suggest investing in a "box rest"..
It's a flat rectangle of steel with a post for the tool rest banjo..
Set up the height so that when the scraper is laying flat on the rest,
the scraper is slightly above center, so that if you raise the handle
a bit you're on center.. MUCH safer and much less vibration..

IMO, vibration is the enemy.. You get tired faster and it's hard to
control the tool..

On rounding the piece, are you working in sweeps from the center to
the outside, of are you trying to round the piece from the outside?
Most new turners will set the toolrest at 90 degrees to the wood and
try rounding it from the side.. Very hard to have a light enough touch
to avoid "clunking"..
Set the rest as if you were shaping the bottom of a bowl and "sneak
up" on the edges by sweeping from center out towards the edges..

Sorry about writing a novel here.. ;(

Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought
up
some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still can't
get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a 3/8
think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it done but
when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't have any
fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the vibration. I
thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but I would have
had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't feel
comfortable.

Second project was more interesting - someone gave me a 4x4x3 piece of
Brazilian rosewood so I decided to make a simple cup. First surprise -
after
the wax came off the block, the wood was quite wet. Didn't seem to present
any problems cutting. The roughing down was a big surprise. I had the wood
in a chuck so the face grain was towards the tailstock. Even though I cut
some of the corners off with a band saw I really had a tough time roughing
across the end grain. If I hadn't kept a really good grip on the gouge it
would have come out of my hand.

Is this typical with end grain or rosewood or a combination of both?

Once got it close to round, the other cuts went as expected.

After hollowing out I sanded the work. The outside sanded just fine but
the
inside of the cup had rough spots on the areas that were end grain. I'm
assuming this is because I used a scraper on the inside and a skew on the
outside. How do you deal with the inside end grain on a cup or a small
bowl?

Still having fun!

Vic


  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 94
Default More newbie stuff

On 11/6/2011 7:48 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
Tools sharp - balance fine - it's my technique for sure. The main
problem is after I've hollowed out the sides and am using the scraper to
flatten out the bottom. Probably pushing too hard.



I've turned a fair amount, perhaps not as much as some here, but enough
that I can generally concentrate on what I want to make rather than how
(see the gallery page on my web site, www.wbnoble.com under hobbies) -
anyway, I really don't like scrapers, I find them catch prone and
dangerous, I rarely use them and then only in shear with the scraper
very lightly touching the wood - for flattening a bowl bottom I use the
same gouge I hollowed it with - typically a 1/2 to 5/8 gouge with a very
swept back fingernail grind. MY guess is that you are cutting too broad
a swath and if you went to something much thinner (in cutting width) you
would fare better -

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 245
Default More newbie stuff



"Bill" wrote in message
...
On 11/6/2011 7:48 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
Tools sharp - balance fine - it's my technique for sure. The main
problem is after I've hollowed out the sides and am using the scraper to
flatten out the bottom. Probably pushing too hard.



I've turned a fair amount, perhaps not as much as some here, but enough
that I can generally concentrate on what I want to make rather than how
(see the gallery page on my web site, www.wbnoble.com under hobbies) -
anyway, I really don't like scrapers, I find them catch prone and
dangerous, I rarely use them and then only in shear with the scraper very
lightly touching the wood - for flattening a bowl bottom I use the same
gouge I hollowed it with - typically a 1/2 to 5/8 gouge with a very swept
back fingernail grind. MY guess is that you are cutting too broad a swath
and if you went to something much thinner (in cutting width) you would
fare better -


But then aren't you just using the tip of the gouge as a scraper? My little
cup for example is just 2 1/2 inched in diameter. So for the bottom, only
the tip would contact until it got to the sides. I'm having difficulty
visualizing the cut. I assume you push the gouge - level - in the center -
rotate it to about 9 or 10 o'clock while pulling across the bottom to the
outside wall, then pulling the gouge out along the wall.

I'm having a tough time with that cut - since I really can't see inside the
hole, I'm still having a tough time 'feeling' the bevel, if you understand
what I mean. But, that's what practice is for. Still can't make a v cut with
a skew either!

Vic



  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 94
Default More newbie stuff

On 11/7/2011 8:42 AM, Vic Baron wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...
On 11/6/2011 7:48 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
Tools sharp - balance fine - it's my technique for sure. The main
problem is after I've hollowed out the sides and am using the scraper to
flatten out the bottom. Probably pushing too hard.



I've turned a fair amount, perhaps not as much as some here, but
enough that I can generally concentrate on what I want to make rather
than how (see the gallery page on my web site, www.wbnoble.com under
hobbies) - anyway, I really don't like scrapers, I find them catch
prone and dangerous, I rarely use them and then only in shear with the
scraper very lightly touching the wood - for flattening a bowl bottom
I use the same gouge I hollowed it with - typically a 1/2 to 5/8 gouge
with a very swept back fingernail grind. MY guess is that you are
cutting too broad a swath and if you went to something much thinner
(in cutting width) you would fare better -


But then aren't you just using the tip of the gouge as a scraper? My
little cup for example is just 2 1/2 inched in diameter. So for the
bottom, only the tip would contact until it got to the sides. I'm having
difficulty visualizing the cut. I assume you push the gouge - level - in
the center - rotate it to about 9 or 10 o'clock while pulling across the
bottom to the outside wall, then pulling the gouge out along the wall.

I'm having a tough time with that cut - since I really can't see inside
the hole, I'm still having a tough time 'feeling' the bevel, if you
understand what I mean. But, that's what practice is for. Still can't
make a v cut with a skew either!

Vic


when I am cutting from center to edge of a bowl or jar, I use the
fingernail ground gouge, as I said. I start at the center with the
gouge turned 90 deg so the sharp edges are facing me, and then rotate it
clockwise a few degrees so it cuts and then bring it towards me
controlling the cut by increasing or decreasing the rotation of the
gouge. When I am cutting in the other direction, e.g. from edge to
center (which is what I prefer to get thin walls), I start with the same
90 deg orientation but with the sharp edges facing the tailstock and
then rotate a degree or so counterclockwise - so in both cases I'm
cutting with the trailing edge. I can make a cut from a thin wisp of a
shaving to a 1/4 inch deep by 5/8 inch wide mammoth steaming shaving by
adjusting the angle of attack and pressure - I only have 2 HP on the
lathe, so with larger stuff I have to modulate the cut to avoid stalling
the motor, but even a fairly large bowl hollows out in a few minutes.

so, no, not scraping, cutting. if you are getting shavings, you are
cutting, if you are getting dust, you are not.

hope this helps.
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 245
Default More newbie stuff



"Bill" wrote in message
...
On 11/7/2011 8:42 AM, Vic Baron wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...
On 11/6/2011 7:48 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
Tools sharp - balance fine - it's my technique for sure. The main
problem is after I've hollowed out the sides and am using the scraper
to
flatten out the bottom. Probably pushing too hard.



I've turned a fair amount, perhaps not as much as some here, but
enough that I can generally concentrate on what I want to make rather
than how (see the gallery page on my web site, www.wbnoble.com under
hobbies) - anyway, I really don't like scrapers, I find them catch
prone and dangerous, I rarely use them and then only in shear with the
scraper very lightly touching the wood - for flattening a bowl bottom
I use the same gouge I hollowed it with - typically a 1/2 to 5/8 gouge
with a very swept back fingernail grind. MY guess is that you are
cutting too broad a swath and if you went to something much thinner
(in cutting width) you would fare better -


But then aren't you just using the tip of the gouge as a scraper? My
little cup for example is just 2 1/2 inched in diameter. So for the
bottom, only the tip would contact until it got to the sides. I'm having
difficulty visualizing the cut. I assume you push the gouge - level - in
the center - rotate it to about 9 or 10 o'clock while pulling across the
bottom to the outside wall, then pulling the gouge out along the wall.

I'm having a tough time with that cut - since I really can't see inside
the hole, I'm still having a tough time 'feeling' the bevel, if you
understand what I mean. But, that's what practice is for. Still can't
make a v cut with a skew either!

Vic


when I am cutting from center to edge of a bowl or jar, I use the
fingernail ground gouge, as I said. I start at the center with the gouge
turned 90 deg so the sharp edges are facing me, and then rotate it
clockwise a few degrees so it cuts and then bring it towards me
controlling the cut by increasing or decreasing the rotation of the gouge.
When I am cutting in the other direction, e.g. from edge to center (which
is what I prefer to get thin walls), I start with the same 90 deg
orientation but with the sharp edges facing the tailstock and then rotate
a degree or so counterclockwise - so in both cases I'm cutting with the
trailing edge. I can make a cut from a thin wisp of a shaving to a 1/4
inch deep by 5/8 inch wide mammoth steaming shaving by adjusting the angle
of attack and pressure - I only have 2 HP on the lathe, so with larger
stuff I have to modulate the cut to avoid stalling the motor, but even a
fairly large bowl hollows out in a few minutes.

so, no, not scraping, cutting. if you are getting shavings, you are
cutting, if you are getting dust, you are not.

hope this helps.



OK I see it now. I've been rewatching Raffan's videos and some of the
youtube ones with a better eye. I sure wish some of these people who make
videos would take a close-up of the cutting edges. Seems to me you can do a
lot of stuff with a gouge depending on how you present it to the wood.
Have to glue up some more pine blocks and keep practicing.

Thanx again.

Vic

  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 889
Default More newbie stuff

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought
up some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still can't
get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a 3/8
think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it done but
when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't have any
fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the vibration. I
thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but I would have
had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't feel
comfortable.


There's a good piece of advice lurking in the above: If it doesn't feel
comfortable, don't do it. Applies to all woodworking and lots more besides.

  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 143
Default More newbie stuff

On Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:48:11 -0800, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

Rounding - yes, I start from center to outside. Since this was the first
time I rounded side and end grain I think I was trying to take too deep a
cut. Probably would have been fine on a pine spindle but rosewood end
grain - I don't know.. Just to be clear - on a spindle between centers, I
start center and sweep to ends. This blank was in a chuck but I did start
and sweep in the same direction as I do a spindle. I'm trying to visualize
rounding the piece from the bottom.

Vic


Ok.. Picture a jar/box blank in the chuck, no tail stock..
My first cuts are usually to level and true the end of the blank..

After the end is true, I start taking light cuts from the center of
the END of the blank..
Not as in spindle turning, but "bowl" turning center..

I end up with a flat, true end, which will be the top of the lid
later..
I use a pull cut to draw the gouge from the center of the end/lid
towards the sides of the blank, lightly rounding my way as if I was
shaping a bowl bottom..

The scraper rest is good of you're going to use scrapers a lot..
Scraper angle and tool overhanging the rest are the 2 bad situations
with scrapers..
If the tool rest is too high, you have to lift the handle to cut,
which increases your probability of a catch..
If the scraper blade overhangs the tool rest very much, you get
vibration ion the blade which will give you a bumpy surface and
probably a catch..

I have my beginners make shavings on scrap with each tool, to learn
the use and feel of each tool, especially scrapers..
Are you doing flat bottomed bowls? I can't do them with a scraper, I
am really bad with a square nose scraper..

This is a link to a box scraper rest from Craft Supplies:
http://tinyurl.com/cwuxh6v
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 274
Default More newbie stuff

Vic Baron wrote:
Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought up
some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still can't
get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a 3/8
think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it done but
when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't have any
fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the vibration. I
thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but I would have
had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't feel
comfortable.

Second project was more interesting - someone gave me a 4x4x3 piece of
Brazilian rosewood so I decided to make a simple cup. First surprise - after
the wax came off the block, the wood was quite wet. Didn't seem to present
any problems cutting. The roughing down was a big surprise. I had the wood
in a chuck so the face grain was towards the tailstock. Even though I cut
some of the corners off with a band saw I really had a tough time roughing
across the end grain. If I hadn't kept a really good grip on the gouge it
would have come out of my hand.

Is this typical with end grain or rosewood or a combination of both?

Once got it close to round, the other cuts went as expected.

After hollowing out I sanded the work. The outside sanded just fine but the
inside of the cup had rough spots on the areas that were end grain. I'm
assuming this is because I used a scraper on the inside and a skew on the
outside. How do you deal with the inside end grain on a cup or a small bowl?

Still having fun!

Vic



I have tried scrapers for box bottoms, including buying a box scraper
rest, but did not like the results. I tended to make square corners
which are hard to sand for me. I like a little transition between the
side and the bottom.

I made several custom tool rests, including two for box bottoms. I
ordered some 1" round steel stock and some 3/4 x 1/4" bar stock.
Sawed the post length with a hacksaw then sawed a 1/4 x 1" shoulder at
one end. A local welder put them together and bent the end. I tapered
the rest with a grinder. Note: He put this one together backward
with the arm coming off the back side of the post, but I still use it
a lot.

I use a small bowl gouge and do the side sweeping across to the center.

Pictures in Alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

--
Gerald Ross

One man's error is another man's data.








  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 245
Default More newbie stuff



"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
...
"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought
up some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still
can't get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a
3/8 think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it
done but when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't
have any fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the
vibration. I thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but
I would have had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't
feel comfortable.


There's a good piece of advice lurking in the above: If it doesn't feel
comfortable, don't do it. Applies to all woodworking and lots more
besides.


I still have all my parts because I follow that rule!

  #12   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 245
Default More newbie stuff



"Mac Davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:48:11 -0800, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

Rounding - yes, I start from center to outside. Since this was the first
time I rounded side and end grain I think I was trying to take too deep a
cut. Probably would have been fine on a pine spindle but rosewood end
grain - I don't know.. Just to be clear - on a spindle between centers, I
start center and sweep to ends. This blank was in a chuck but I did start
and sweep in the same direction as I do a spindle. I'm trying to visualize
rounding the piece from the bottom.

Vic


Ok.. Picture a jar/box blank in the chuck, no tail stock..
My first cuts are usually to level and true the end of the blank..

After the end is true, I start taking light cuts from the center of
the END of the blank..
Not as in spindle turning, but "bowl" turning center..

I end up with a flat, true end, which will be the top of the lid
later..
I use a pull cut to draw the gouge from the center of the end/lid
towards the sides of the blank, lightly rounding my way as if I was
shaping a bowl bottom..

The scraper rest is good of you're going to use scrapers a lot..
Scraper angle and tool overhanging the rest are the 2 bad situations
with scrapers..
If the tool rest is too high, you have to lift the handle to cut,
which increases your probability of a catch..
If the scraper blade overhangs the tool rest very much, you get
vibration ion the blade which will give you a bumpy surface and
probably a catch..

I have my beginners make shavings on scrap with each tool, to learn
the use and feel of each tool, especially scrapers..
Are you doing flat bottomed bowls? I can't do them with a scraper, I
am really bad with a square nose scraper..

This is a link to a box scraper rest from Craft Supplies:
http://tinyurl.com/cwuxh6v



Got it.

ok, I see what you mean about the rounding - saw a video - think it was
titled 'Why you don't use roughing gouge for bowls'.

Something to practice.

I'm trying different things. I use a square scraper and a radius scraper -
can already see that I'd like to grind a square scraper with a slightly
rounded corner.

Working on getting a better feel for the gouge bevel.

Interesting though - I started out getting hand cramps from clutching the
tools so tightly. I can now hold them firmly but soft enough to feel the
wood - so there might be hope for me yet.

I'm still playing around with the tool rest height - getting a feel for
what happens when it's low or high etc.

Also finding that it's MUCH better when the tools are sharp.

Having fun and that's the name of the game - have a 5x5x12 maple burl that
I'm just dying to get at but need more practice before I give that a shot.
Plan on cutting it in half and making two lidded boxes out of it.

Appreciate the guidance!

Vic

  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 143
Default More newbie stuff

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 10:52:48 -0500, Gerald Ross
wrote:

Same here, Gerald.. I've always preferred the look and feel of a
rounded bottom in the box..
Much easier to shape and finish and I think it's a bit more "elegant"
when folks look inside the box..

Marketing turnings is a "touchy feely" thing and I don't think people
get a warm, fuzzy feeling from square edges and flat bottoms..

Vic Baron wrote:
Been a good weekend for making shavings - learned quite a bit but brought up
some questions.

Made a lidded box out of pine scraps. Came out pretty good but still can't
get the hang of hollowing end grain using a gouge. Wound up using a 3/8
think x 1" square scraper and a comparable radius scraper. Got it done but
when I was getting to the bottom of the 6" box I'm glad I don't have any
fillings in my teeth or they would have shaken loose from the vibration. I
thought about sticking the tool rest inside the cylinder but I would have
had to lay the scraper along the length of the rest. Didn't feel
comfortable.

Second project was more interesting - someone gave me a 4x4x3 piece of
Brazilian rosewood so I decided to make a simple cup. First surprise - after
the wax came off the block, the wood was quite wet. Didn't seem to present
any problems cutting. The roughing down was a big surprise. I had the wood
in a chuck so the face grain was towards the tailstock. Even though I cut
some of the corners off with a band saw I really had a tough time roughing
across the end grain. If I hadn't kept a really good grip on the gouge it
would have come out of my hand.

Is this typical with end grain or rosewood or a combination of both?

Once got it close to round, the other cuts went as expected.

After hollowing out I sanded the work. The outside sanded just fine but the
inside of the cup had rough spots on the areas that were end grain. I'm
assuming this is because I used a scraper on the inside and a skew on the
outside. How do you deal with the inside end grain on a cup or a small bowl?

Still having fun!

Vic



I have tried scrapers for box bottoms, including buying a box scraper
rest, but did not like the results. I tended to make square corners
which are hard to sand for me. I like a little transition between the
side and the bottom.

I made several custom tool rests, including two for box bottoms. I
ordered some 1" round steel stock and some 3/4 x 1/4" bar stock.
Sawed the post length with a hacksaw then sawed a 1/4 x 1" shoulder at
one end. A local welder put them together and bent the end. I tapered
the rest with a grinder. Note: He put this one together backward
with the arm coming off the back side of the post, but I still use it
a lot.

I use a small bowl gouge and do the side sweeping across to the center.

Pictures in Alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

  #14   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 94
Default More newbie stuff

On 11/13/2011 8:12 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 10:52:48 -0500, Gerald
wrote:

Same here, Gerald.. I've always preferred the look and feel of a
rounded bottom in the box..
Much easier to shape and finish and I think it's a bit more "elegant"
when folks look inside the box..

Marketing turnings is a "touchy feely" thing and I don't think people
get a warm, fuzzy feeling from square edges and flat bottoms..



FWIW, my favorite box tool is the Soren Berger thing that is basically a
bar with a rather odd shaped sharp blade at the end, you can use it to
make the bottom and the sides very quickly.

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS in Alachua/Gainesville FL: huge volume shop stuff, tools supplieshardwares, other "guy stuff", 1, some, or all - PICKUP preferred dave Woodworking 0 January 30th 07 05:31 PM
Newbie Jerry Maske Woodturning 3 July 30th 05 10:14 PM
Re Newbie Sheila Dougall Woodturning 0 July 30th 05 12:06 PM
Newbie at This Stuff Denise Home Repair 32 November 10th 03 11:05 PM
newbie needs help - hardwood floors - stuff in bettween? - pic link too loomis Woodworking 3 October 3rd 03 05:20 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:37 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"