In woodworking the saying goes "You can never have too many clamps" - in
turning it appears it's "You can never have enough turning tools!"

I'd better learn to be ambidextrous - when turning close to the chuck, I
keep rapping my knuckles on it. Not fun.

I need to find a use for all the left over stubs cut off from my practice
pieces.

Catches are scary

I find it easier to turn between centers when the speed is up around 1800.

Question:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut finial
and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up with
Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was looking for
something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could remove it from the
lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered of there were any
finishes that could be applied while the piece is on the lathe. I skimmed
through a few online catalogs but what saw looked just like the same
products I use for my woodworking projects - urethane, waterlox, etc.

Having fun and just turned my two first projects - a small lidded box and a
finial that I plan to use as a knob on a box.

Vic

--
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
don't

On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 22:00:41 -0500, Vic Baron wrote
(in message ):

In woodworking the saying goes "You can never have too many clamps" - in
turning it appears it's "You can never have enough turning tools!"

although this is not wrong, you will likely find that there are certain tools
you keep coming back to, depending on just what kind of projects you like to
make. For years, I had just six tools, and was happy. I have since been
expanding my skill set and interests, and soooo... have gotten a few more
tools.

I'd better learn to be ambidextrous - when turning close to the chuck, I
keep rapping my knuckles on it. Not fun.

after enough bandages, you will develop a certain deliberate consciousness of
just where you are, and where you want to avoid. You will learn to mentally
rehearse a move before making it, and not be too fascinated by the shavings
and the shiny light reflecting from the chuck.

I need to find a use for all the left over stubs cut off from my practice
pieces.

ah... I'm so tight with a quarter I can make the eagle scream - or other 4
letter verb. Eventually you will have boxes of little bits of perfectly nice
wood that you can't part with - and either get into segmented turning, or a
small woodstove

Catches are scary

yes

I find it easier to turn between centers when the speed is up around 1800.

ah, this will depend upon the diameter of the piece you are turning, and the
kind of wood, and how sharp your tools are, and how agressive a cut you want
to take, and what the moisture content of the wood is, and how lucky you are
feeling today

Question:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut finial
and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up with
Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was looking for
something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could remove it from the
lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered of there were any
finishes that could be applied while the piece is on the lathe. I skimmed
through a few online catalogs but what saw looked just like the same
products I use for my woodworking projects - urethane, waterlox, etc.

part of the quality of the finish is determined by how smooth the surface is,
of course - and some folks here will sand to finer grit than 400, maybe as
fine as 800 or 1000 if the wood is hard enough and close-grained. Part of the
quality of the finish depends on whether the wood is porous or close-grained.
Part of the quality will be limited by the hardness of the wood - a very soft
wood will not take a very smooth sanding, and may benefit from something to
harden it up a bit, first. Part of the finish quality will depend upon the
product, whether shellac or varnish or french polish or tung oil or any of a
dozen other commonly used coatings. How the final coating is treated will
include the way it is applied, dried or cured, smoothed between coats, topped
off with a finishing product like a wax or oil.

Having fun

this is the key. If you are having fun, then the exploration is much easier
to do, and failures will be more instructive, less discouraging.
and just turned my two first projects - a small lidded box and a
finial that I plan to use as a knob on a box.

Well done! Welcome to the fray!

tom koehler

Vic





--
I will find a way or make one.

On 10/23/2011 07:00 PM, Vic Baron wrote:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut
finial and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up
with Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was
looking for something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could
remove it from the lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered
of there were any finishes that could be applied while the piece is on
the lathe. I skimmed through a few online catalogs but what saw looked
just like the same products I use for my woodworking projects -
urethane, waterlox, etc.

For a nice gloss finish, try using lacquer. If you don't want to spray,
get some brushing lacquer, thin it 50/50 with lacquer thinner, and wipe
on with a soft cloth or paper towel with the lathe stopped. Let it sit
for a minute or so, then wipe off the excess. With the lathe running,
buff it out with a soft lint free cloth or paper towel. If you use
cloth, do not wrap it around your fingers! If it snags on something you
want it to come out of you hand, not pull your hand into the work. The
friction will cure the lacquer pretty quickly.

Instead of paste wax, try carnuba wax. It's really hard and will get
really shiny. Just hold it on the piece, then buff it out under power
with a cloth or paper towel. Same cautions apply.

Some folks swear by the Beall Buffing System although I've never used it
myself. I have seen it used however and it does produce a nice result.

S'later...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
mmunications...
On 10/23/2011 07:00 PM, Vic Baron wrote:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut
finial and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up
with Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was
looking for something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could
remove it from the lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered
of there were any finishes that could be applied while the piece is on
the lathe. I skimmed through a few online catalogs but what saw looked
just like the same products I use for my woodworking projects -
urethane, waterlox, etc.

For a nice gloss finish, try using lacquer. If you don't want to spray,
get some brushing lacquer, thin it 50/50 with lacquer thinner, and wipe on
with a soft cloth or paper towel with the lathe stopped. Let it sit for a
minute or so, then wipe off the excess. With the lathe running, buff it
out with a soft lint free cloth or paper towel. If you use cloth, do not
wrap it around your fingers! If it snags on something you want it to come
out of you hand, not pull your hand into the work. The friction will cure
the lacquer pretty quickly.

Instead of paste wax, try carnuba wax. It's really hard and will get
really shiny. Just hold it on the piece, then buff it out under power
with a cloth or paper towel. Same cautions apply.

Some folks swear by the Beall Buffing System although I've never used it
myself. I have seen it used however and it does produce a nice result.

S'later...


Ok - that sounds like something I can work with. Thanx!

BTW, another newbie observation - no matter how hard you try, you can not
blow shavings off your chisel when wearing a facemask!

Vic

On 10/24/2011 01:46 PM, Vic Baron wrote:

Ok - that sounds like something I can work with. Thanx!

BTW, another newbie observation - no matter how hard you try, you can
not blow shavings off your chisel when wearing a facemask!

LOL. Been there, done that.
Just don't sneeze...

--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

On 10/23/2011 8:00 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
In woodworking the saying goes "You can never have too many clamps" - in
turning it appears it's "You can never have enough turning tools!"

I'd better learn to be ambidextrous - when turning close to the chuck, I
keep rapping my knuckles on it. Not fun.

I need to find a use for all the left over stubs cut off from my
practice pieces.

Catches are scary

I find it easier to turn between centers when the speed is up around 1800.

Question:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut
finial and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up
with Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was
looking for something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could
remove it from the lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered
of there were any finishes that could be applied while the piece is on
the lathe. I skimmed through a few online catalogs but what saw looked
just like the same products I use for my woodworking projects -
urethane, waterlox, etc.

Having fun and just turned my two first projects - a small lidded box
and a finial that I plan to use as a knob on a box.

Vic



if I want a true mirror finish, here is what I do, AFTER sanding the
wood properly - spray several coats of lacquer (I use a spray gun),
needs to be thick enough to sand - then start with 280 or 400 wet/dry
and a sanding pad AND WATER!!! and wet sand up to at least 600. then
spin it up on the lathe and polish using automotive polishing compound -
first the brown "cutting" compound then the white polishing compound -
you will get a finish just like a mirror - but it will show every little
scratch that you didn't sand out of the wood underneath the finish -
This finish works very well on walnut pieces that are dark - don't waste
your time on light colored wood

On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:30:48 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

I've been using the Bealle system for about 10 years, Kevin..
I'm on my 2nd set of wheels and figure that I've saved many hundreds
of dollars on finishes during that time..

I do use a coat or three of Danish Oil on soft woods before buffing,
but other than that, all my work is natural/buffed and folks seem very
happy with them..

Like most of us, I evolved through friction polish, sanding sealer,
etc., before getting talked into buffing.. Wouldn't do anything else,
now..

On 10/23/2011 07:00 PM, Vic Baron wrote:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut
finial and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up
with Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was
looking for something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could
remove it from the lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered
of there were any finishes that could be applied while the piece is on
the lathe. I skimmed through a few online catalogs but what saw looked
just like the same products I use for my woodworking projects -
urethane, waterlox, etc.

For a nice gloss finish, try using lacquer. If you don't want to spray,
get some brushing lacquer, thin it 50/50 with lacquer thinner, and wipe
on with a soft cloth or paper towel with the lathe stopped. Let it sit
for a minute or so, then wipe off the excess. With the lathe running,
buff it out with a soft lint free cloth or paper towel. If you use
cloth, do not wrap it around your fingers! If it snags on something you
want it to come out of you hand, not pull your hand into the work. The
friction will cure the lacquer pretty quickly.

Instead of paste wax, try carnuba wax. It's really hard and will get
really shiny. Just hold it on the piece, then buff it out under power
with a cloth or paper towel. Same cautions apply.

Some folks swear by the Beall Buffing System although I've never used it
myself. I have seen it used however and it does produce a nice result.

S'later...

...Kevin

On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:53:39 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

On 10/24/2011 01:46 PM, Vic Baron wrote:

Ok - that sounds like something I can work with. Thanx!

BTW, another newbie observation - no matter how hard you try, you can
not blow shavings off your chisel when wearing a facemask!

LOL. Been there, done that.
Just don't sneeze...

Or try to smoke..

"Bill" wrote in message
...
On 10/23/2011 8:00 PM, Vic Baron wrote:
In woodworking the saying goes "You can never have too many clamps" - in
turning it appears it's "You can never have enough turning tools!"

I'd better learn to be ambidextrous - when turning close to the chuck, I
keep rapping my knuckles on it. Not fun.

I need to find a use for all the left over stubs cut off from my
practice pieces.

Catches are scary

I find it easier to turn between centers when the speed is up around
1800.

Question:

What is a good way to get a high polished finish? I turned a walnut
finial and sanded it to 400 grit. Put some shellac on it and followed up
with Johnsons paste wax. Got a really nice hand rubbed look but I was
looking for something with a little more shine. I'm guessing I could
remove it from the lathe and spray it with a gloss finish but I wondered
of there were any finishes that could be applied while the piece is on
the lathe. I skimmed through a few online catalogs but what saw looked
just like the same products I use for my woodworking projects -
urethane, waterlox, etc.

Having fun and just turned my two first projects - a small lidded box
and a finial that I plan to use as a knob on a box.

Vic



if I want a true mirror finish, here is what I do, AFTER sanding the wood
properly - spray several coats of lacquer (I use a spray gun), needs to be
thick enough to sand - then start with 280 or 400 wet/dry and a sanding
pad AND WATER!!! and wet sand up to at least 600. then spin it up on the
lathe and polish using automotive polishing compound - first the brown
"cutting" compound then the white polishing compound - you will get a
finish just like a mirror - but it will show every little scratch that you
didn't sand out of the wood underneath the finish - This finish works very
well on walnut pieces that are dark - don't waste your time on light
colored wood


OK, I've done that on some boxes I've made in the past. I was curious as
I've seen a bunch of turning videos and they all seem to sand and apply the
finish on the lathe and in the end credits the pix always show this glossy
finish. Since the videos are about turning technique I assume they don't
show all the steps in the final finish. Finishing the pieces off the lathe
using my normal furniture finishing steps would work fine.

LOL! At someone's suggestion I picked up several 8' long 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 pine
furring strips and cut them into 8" pieces for practice. A friend just
stopped by and saw the stack of little blocks of wood and gave me the
strangest look, like I was a candidate for the "Hoarders TV Show".

Vic

On 10/24/2011 10:29 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:30:48 -0800, Kevin
wrote:

I've been using the Bealle system for about 10 years, Kevin..
I'm on my 2nd set of wheels and figure that I've saved many hundreds
of dollars on finishes during that time..

I do use a coat or three of Danish Oil on soft woods before buffing,
but other than that, all my work is natural/buffed and folks seem very
happy with them..

Like most of us, I evolved through friction polish, sanding sealer,
etc., before getting talked into buffing.. Wouldn't do anything else,
now..

I've always been curious how a buffed bowl holds up. Does it still have
it's luster after 5 years?

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

In article
"Vic Baron" writes:

Catches are scary

Even scarier are catches that knock the work loose and bounce it
off your face shield.

I have a small crack in the shield to remind me that if I'd slacked
on safety equipment, I'd probably be missing an eye now.


--
Drew Lawson | "But the senator, while insisting he was not
| intoxicated, could not explain his nudity."

In article ications,
Kevin Miller wrote:



I've always been curious how a buffed bowl holds up. Does it still have
it's luster after 5 years?

If it has been sitting on a shelf, yes. If it has been in use, no. But
then use will give it a very pleasant patina. While a lacquer finish
flakes off

Of course the difference is, it's easy to restore the luster of a BLO
and buffed bowl. While, IMO a lacquer bowl is almost impossible to
restore the finish on

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

"Drew Lawson" wrote in message
...
In article
"Vic Baron" writes:

Catches are scary

Even scarier are catches that knock the work loose and bounce it
off your face shield.

I'll take your word for it and try not to give myself a practical
demonstration.



I have a small crack in the shield to remind me that if I'd slacked
on safety equipment, I'd probably be missing an eye now.

The only things missing on me are my teeth and that's due to age so I am a
big fan of safety equipment!

Vic

On 10/25/2011 10:34 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In icommunications,
Kevin wrote:



I've always been curious how a buffed bowl holds up. Does it still have
it's luster after 5 years?

If it has been sitting on a shelf, yes. If it has been in use, no. But
then use will give it a very pleasant patina. While a lacquer finish
flakes off

Of course the difference is, it's easy to restore the luster of a BLO
and buffed bowl. While, IMO a lacquer bowl is almost impossible to
restore the finish on



disagree RE lacquer finish - just spray again, resand and polish again
on the lathe - that part is fast, what is slow is getting the wood
ready. One trick on lacquer that gets scratched or hazy is just to
spray lacquer thinner on it, then polish

On 10/25/2011 12:37 PM, Vic Baron wrote:


"Drew Lawson" wrote in message
...
In article
"Vic Baron" writes:

Catches are scary

Even scarier are catches that knock the work loose and bounce it
off your face shield.

I'll take your word for it and try not to give myself a practical
demonstration.



I have a small crack in the shield to remind me that if I'd slacked
on safety equipment, I'd probably be missing an eye now.

The only things missing on me are my teeth and that's due to age so I am
a big fan of safety equipment!

Vic

launching a 90 pound bowl blank into the fluorescent light over your
head and then hunkering down in the shower of glass while wondering if
the bounding bowl will exit the building stage left or bounce up and
down on your body is an even better learning experience. I learned a
LOT from that and there is still a dent in the 1X6 roofing board to
remind me.

On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 08:13:13 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

On 10/24/2011 10:29 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:30:48 -0800, Kevin
wrote:

I've been using the Bealle system for about 10 years, Kevin..
I'm on my 2nd set of wheels and figure that I've saved many hundreds
of dollars on finishes during that time..

I do use a coat or three of Danish Oil on soft woods before buffing,
but other than that, all my work is natural/buffed and folks seem very
happy with them..

Like most of us, I evolved through friction polish, sanding sealer,
etc., before getting talked into buffing.. Wouldn't do anything else,
now..

I've always been curious how a buffed bowl holds up. Does it still have
it's luster after 5 years?

...Kevin

Unless they've been using soapy water to clean the piece, a brisk rub
with a flannel cloth brings the glow back..
I've been carrying an ironwood pen for years and when it gets dull I
just wipe in with a rag and it's good to go..

In extreme cases, I'll rebuff the piece with the wax wheel..

In article ,
Bill wrote:



launching a 90 pound bowl blank into the fluorescent light over your
head and then hunkering down in the shower of glass while wondering if
the bounding bowl will exit the building stage left or bounce up and
down on your body is an even better learning experience. I learned a
LOT from that and there is still a dent in the 1X6 roofing board to
remind me.

I have a fairly tall shop (14 ft). I once launched a platter and had
enough time to wonder where it had gone, when it came back down and
bounced off the ways

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On 10/25/2011 10:54 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 08:13:13 -0800, Kevin
wrote:

On 10/24/2011 10:29 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:30:48 -0800, Kevin
wrote:

I've been using the Bealle system for about 10 years, Kevin..
I'm on my 2nd set of wheels and figure that I've saved many hundreds
of dollars on finishes during that time..

I do use a coat or three of Danish Oil on soft woods before buffing,
but other than that, all my work is natural/buffed and folks seem very
happy with them..

Like most of us, I evolved through friction polish, sanding sealer,
etc., before getting talked into buffing.. Wouldn't do anything else,
now..

I've always been curious how a buffed bowl holds up. Does it still have
it's luster after 5 years?

...Kevin

Unless they've been using soapy water to clean the piece, a brisk rub
with a flannel cloth brings the glow back..
I've been carrying an ironwood pen for years and when it gets dull I
just wipe in with a rag and it's good to go..

In extreme cases, I'll rebuff the piece with the wax wheel..

But what about something like maple, or walnut. Ironwood is so dense it
almost takes a shine just looking at it. I tell my customers not to
immerse the bowls, but if they wipe a salad bowl out w/a damp cloth then
dry it what kind of effect will that have?

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 1:29:19 -0500, Mac Davis wrote
(in message ):

On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:30:48 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

I've been using the Bealle system for about 10 years, Kevin..
I'm on my 2nd set of wheels and figure that I've saved many hundreds
of dollars on finishes during that time..

I do use a coat or three of Danish Oil on soft woods before buffing,
but other than that, all my work is natural/buffed and folks seem very
happy with them..

Like most of us, I evolved through friction polish, sanding sealer,
etc., before getting talked into buffing.. Wouldn't do anything else,
now..


I took a look at this outfit, and it looks very promising. I've seen some
buffed work, and am gonna give it a try! Bealle site has plenty of info on
its stuff, including some well done utube vids. Thanks for the tip.
tom koehler
--
I will find a way or make one.

"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bill wrote:



launching a 90 pound bowl blank into the fluorescent light over your
head and then hunkering down in the shower of glass while wondering if
the bounding bowl will exit the building stage left or bounce up and
down on your body is an even better learning experience. I learned a
LOT from that and there is still a dent in the 1X6 roofing board to
remind me.

I have a fairly tall shop (14 ft). I once launched a platter and had
enough time to wonder where it had gone, when it came back down and
bounced off the ways


Are these due to something breaking or something first coming loose from the
chuck?

I read about gluing a base to a blank with wax paper. Seems to be the glue
bond could pop if you get a serious catch, no?

Vic

Never heard of using wax paper but have heard of use kraft paper i.e grocery
bags between the bowl blank and waste block.

Russ
"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...


"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bill wrote:



launching a 90 pound bowl blank into the fluorescent light over your
head and then hunkering down in the shower of glass while wondering if
the bounding bowl will exit the building stage left or bounce up and
down on your body is an even better learning experience. I learned a
LOT from that and there is still a dent in the 1X6 roofing board to
remind me.

I have a fairly tall shop (14 ft). I once launched a platter and had
enough time to wonder where it had gone, when it came back down and
bounced off the ways


Are these due to something breaking or something first coming loose from
the chuck?

I read about gluing a base to a blank with wax paper. Seems to be the glue
bond could pop if you get a serious catch, no?

Vic

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:19:00 -0500, Vic Baron wrote
(in message ):



I read about gluing a base to a blank with wax paper. Seems to be the glue
bond could pop if you get a serious catch, no?

Vic



basic Elmer's glue or the yellow stuff, and basic brown paper, like grocery
bags (my favorite source) When it is time to separate them I use a wide metal
spatula right on the glue line and a rap with a hammer on the end of the
spatula. Very neat separation. Clean up with sandpaper disc. Is a very secure
hold under normal circumstances.
tom koehler


--
I will find a way or make one.

In article ,
"Vic Baron" wrote:




Are these due to something breaking or something first coming loose from the
chuck?

Yup, or the tenon failing

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On 10/26/2011 10:49 PM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In ,
"Vic wrote:




Are these due to something breaking or something first coming loose from the
chuck?

Yup, or the tenon failing


or in my case, seriously flawed technique resulting in a spectacular
catch - I learned a lot in a millisecond or two

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:19:00 -0700, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

I usually just turn a piece between centers until I get a tenon for
the chuck to grip, but last week I was trying to turn a long piece of
branch wood into a vase and decided to be "safe" and use a faceplate..

The wood was about 16" long and maybe 7" diameter..No problem, 4"
faceplate with 1 3/4" lag screws should be good..
I was still removing the bark and branch stubs (Using the tailstock)
when the piece started wobbling and fell off the damn lathe..

After turning off the lathe and seeing that the wood rolled over the
side of my foot but that I wasn't bleeding (much), I looked up and saw
that all 4 screws were still through the faceplate.. all with wood
fiber stuck in the threads..

I'll stick with a chuck from now on..



"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bill wrote:



launching a 90 pound bowl blank into the fluorescent light over your
head and then hunkering down in the shower of glass while wondering if
the bounding bowl will exit the building stage left or bounce up and
down on your body is an even better learning experience. I learned a
LOT from that and there is still a dent in the 1X6 roofing board to
remind me.

I have a fairly tall shop (14 ft). I once launched a platter and had
enough time to wonder where it had gone, when it came back down and
bounced off the ways


Are these due to something breaking or something first coming loose from the
chuck?

I read about gluing a base to a blank with wax paper. Seems to be the glue
bond could pop if you get a serious catch, no?

Vic

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:27:42 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

Unless they've been using soapy water to clean the piece, a brisk rub
with a flannel cloth brings the glow back..
I've been carrying an ironwood pen for years and when it gets dull I
just wipe in with a rag and it's good to go..

In extreme cases, I'll rebuff the piece with the wax wheel..

But what about something like maple, or walnut. Ironwood is so dense it
almost takes a shine just looking at it. I tell my customers not to
immerse the bowls, but if they wipe a salad bowl out w/a damp cloth then
dry it what kind of effect will that have?

...Kevin

Any wood buffs well, but the harder the wood the better it buffs..
Maple and walnut buff REALLY well, especially walnut.. It just GLOWS..
Softer woods like pine or cherry buff much better with a coat of
natural Danish oil applied first..

I wet sand a lot of my pieces using Danish oil and they really buff
well after that.. (You're pretty much buffing the oil)

When I have a "buffing doubter" in the shop I'll grab a pen blank of
some other fairly rough surface and use the 1st wheel on it for a few
seconds.. They're blown away by how it looks..

In article ,
Mac Davis wrote:

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:19:00 -0700, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

I usually just turn a piece between centers until I get a tenon for
the chuck to grip, but last week I was trying to turn a long piece of
branch wood into a vase and decided to be "safe" and use a faceplate..

The wood was about 16" long and maybe 7" diameter..No problem, 4"
faceplate with 1 3/4" lag screws should be good..
I was still removing the bark and branch stubs (Using the tailstock)
when the piece started wobbling and fell off the damn lathe..

After turning off the lathe and seeing that the wood rolled over the
side of my foot but that I wasn't bleeding (much), I looked up and saw
that all 4 screws were still through the faceplate.. all with wood
fiber stuck in the threads..

I'll stick with a chuck from now on..

em... you do know that face-plate is really not for end-grain work, for
the very reason you just learned

--
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On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 07:54:42 -0700, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:


em... you do know that face-plate is really not for end-grain work, for
the very reason you just learned

Yep.. My exception is for wet wood..
Never had a piece that was wet and green come off, even end grain..

I'm not a fan of faceplates and don't use them often..

On 11/01/2011 10:03 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 07:54:42 -0700, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:


em... you do know that face-plate is really not for end-grain work, for
the very reason you just learned

Yep.. My exception is for wet wood..
Never had a piece that was wet and green come off, even end grain..

I'm not a fan of faceplates and don't use them often..

I don't use them much, but when I do I use sheet metal screws. They
hold well. Of course, you have to pre-drill the holes. The bit should
be the same diameter as the shank of the screw. If you don't pre-drill
or use too small of a bit you'll crush the wood fibers, weakening them.

Of course, you need to be screwing into sound wood as well.

The OP said he had the tailstock up as well as the faceplate. Me thinks
he must have had a major catch. If the piece is supported on both ends
I have a really hard time seeing it coming off. Maybe I'm wrong, but I
think there's more to this story than was written up...


--
Kevin Miller - http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
In a recent survey, 7 out of 10 hard drives preferred Linux
Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://linuxcounter.net

On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:41:41 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

Kevin.. I was the OP.. Used hex head screws into pilot holes,
tightened with a socket.ratchet..

No catch.. was removing bark wirh a cardbide tool (with tailsdtock)
and it started to wobble.. I turned off the lathe at about the same
time as the wood fell off..

All I can think of is that the vibrations backed the screws out....
never had anything like this happen before..

On 11/01/2011 10:03 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 07:54:42 -0700, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:


em... you do know that face-plate is really not for end-grain work, for
the very reason you just learned

Yep.. My exception is for wet wood..
Never had a piece that was wet and green come off, even end grain..

I'm not a fan of faceplates and don't use them often..

I don't use them much, but when I do I use sheet metal screws. They
hold well. Of course, you have to pre-drill the holes. The bit should
be the same diameter as the shank of the screw. If you don't pre-drill
or use too small of a bit you'll crush the wood fibers, weakening them.

Of course, you need to be screwing into sound wood as well.

The OP said he had the tailstock up as well as the faceplate. Me thinks
he must have had a major catch. If the piece is supported on both ends
I have a really hard time seeing it coming off. Maybe I'm wrong, but I
think there's more to this story than was written up...

On 11/02/2011 09:40 PM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:41:41 -0800, Kevin
wrote:

Kevin.. I was the OP.. Used hex head screws into pilot holes,
tightened with a socket.ratchet..

No catch.. was removing bark wirh a cardbide tool (with tailsdtock)
and it started to wobble.. I turned off the lathe at about the same
time as the wood fell off..

All I can think of is that the vibrations backed the screws out....
never had anything like this happen before..

Wow, that's really odd. I presume you were in sound wood. With the
tailstock up it's hard to see how it could come loose. But stranger
things have happened...

--
Kevin Miller - http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
In a recent survey, 7 out of 10 hard drives preferred Linux
Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://linuxcounter.net

On Thu, 03 Nov 2011 17:12:30 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:



Wow, that's really odd. I presume you were in sound wood. With the
tailstock up it's hard to see how it could come loose. But stranger
things have happened...

The only thing that I can think of is that when the screws lost hold,
the tailstock point went off center and threw the whole thing off
balance..
Funny thing is that the lathe was not vibrating before it happened...

The wood was solid.. Only off the tree for a few days and no crcks or
anything..

From a safety standpoint, which was the original topic, I wouldn't
have any scrapes on my foot if I wasn't turning barefoot..