I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside. Of course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside again? My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse.

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

In article
12233743.279.1318593555744.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbvq4,
jtpryan wrote:

I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside. Of
course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat
bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside
again? My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it
exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse.

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

A vacuum chuck? But remounting it to be perfectly centered would be,
tough

--
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This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
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In article
12233743.279.1318593555744.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbvq4,
jtpryan wrote:

I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside. Of
course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat
bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside
again? My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it
exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse.

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

If you only want to re-do the inside, it might be possible, but it will
be more work than making a new bowl...

And even then, it may not be (probably isn't) perfectly round, which
means it really cannot be perfectly centered. But....

Depending on shape, etc. - clamp the rim in something like cole jaws or
a langstroth. Which are weak. Remember always that they are weak. Take a
pre-cicularized piece of scrap and glue to the bottom - I like the old
fashioned paper in the joint method (glue paper glue.) Turn the lathe by
hand as you nudge that as close to center as you can get it, and clamp
with the tailstock. Wait 24-48 hours, leave the tailstock in place, and
true the scrap up. Now turn it around and chuck it. That's about as good
as you are going to be able to do, I think.

If the bottom is only somewhat flat, you may need to start by making it
more flat for a good glue surface.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 04:59:15 -0700 (PDT), jtpryan
wrote:

Cut a disk the same size as the bowl either the interior or exterior
of the bowl and use the tail stock on the center of the disk. This
should get you close enough, and you can use the tail stock to apply
pressure for gluing. I use the tailstock to glue layers of my
segmented bowls, See pictures at:


ray80538.home.comcast.net/~ray80538/SegmentedBowl/segbowl.html

I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside. Of course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside again? My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse.

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

jtpryan wrote:
I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside. Of course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside again? My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse.

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

Depends on what you plan to do to the inside. If just sanding and
re-finishing, it doesn't have to be perfectly centered. Flatten the
bottom on a wide belt sander and glue it as suggested above. A vacuum
chuck works fine for this, also. I have just re-sanded and
re-finished 6 bowls that had a messy finish. My vacuum chuck disks
have concentric circles drawn on them which helps center the bowl, but
it is never perfect so the sanding is done at low speeds. I was a
little leery of it holding a bowl by the base, but so far have never
had one come off the chuck while working on it. Can't say the same
about Cole jaws.

--
Gerald Ross

Hi! I can't remember your name either.

On Oct 14, 4:59*am, jtpryan wrote:
I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside. *Of course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside again? *My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse. *

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

Hello Jim,

You've had several good answers; however, if you don't have Cole Jaws,
or a Vacuum chuck, you need something else. Before I had Cole Jaws,
Longworth Chucks, and Vacuum chucks; I used the following method to
remount a bowl after it had been off the lathe. Take a wood plank
(could be 3/4" or 1" plywood) wider than the bowl mouth. Mount it to a
faceplate and true it up and making it round. Cut a groove about 1/4"
deep that the mouth of the bowl will fit into and press the bowl mouth
into the groove. Bring up the tailstock with a piece of wood that will
become the new chuck mounting and glue it to the foot of the bowl.
Leave it on the lathe at least overnight, then turn a tenon to fit
your chuck. Once the tenon is done, reverse into the chuck and do
whatever you need to do on the inside of the bowl. I know that this
works, because I've done it many times.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

Very clever, I think I'll give that a try...

"Ray" wrote in message ...

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 04:59:15 -0700 (PDT), jtpryan
wrote:

Cut a disk the same size as the bowl either the interior or exterior
of the bowl and use the tail stock on the center of the disk. This
should get you close enough, and you can use the tail stock to apply
pressure for gluing. I use the tailstock to glue layers of my
segmented bowls, See pictures at:


ray80538.home.comcast.net/~ray80538/SegmentedBowl/segbowl.html

I have a bowl I did that I've never really been happy with on the inside.
Of course there is no longer a tenon on it, it has a smooth, somewhat flat
bottom. Is there a way to somehow remount this so I can work on the inside
again? My fear is that if I glue it to a blank I'll never really get it
exactly centered and it will not spin true, making it worse.

Or, I could put a plant in it....

Thanks,
Jim

Been reading this newsgroup for quite a while trying to learn something
about bowl turning before I retire, hopefully soon. I'll have to delurk and
say that Ray, you are an artist. I've done some woodworking over the
years, and want to try my hand at bowl turning in retirement. The work of
the people here is an inspiration. Thanks for posting that link. I've got
plenty of dry white and red oak in thick planks. Is it a good wood for bowl
turning?


Garrett Fulton

On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 13:57:43 +0100, "Garrett Fulton"
wrote:


Been reading this newsgroup for quite a while trying to learn something
about bowl turning before I retire, hopefully soon. I'll have to delurk and
say that Ray, you are an artist. I've done some woodworking over the
years, and want to try my hand at bowl turning in retirement. The work of
the people here is an inspiration. Thanks for posting that link. I've got
plenty of dry white and red oak in thick planks. Is it a good wood for bowl
turning?


Garrett Fulton

I have doing woodworking for 65 years, I retired 20 years ago. I have
been doing lathe work for about a year so I am no expert, but it shows
it is never too late to learn a new talent. Just some of my
observations. I tried a few bowls from solid chunks of wood and just
a personal observation have found segmented turning easier, safer
feeling, more economic on the wood, and more pleasing to my eyes.
YMMV. In general I find end grain difficult to finish nicely and
avoid it. Try to avoid cross grain gluing. Oak works fine, a little
contrasting wood add interest. Thanks for the kind compliments.

Ray