Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters.

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Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl. Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic

--
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don't

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In article ,
"Vic Baron" wrote:

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.


I'd suggest you stick to cheap and common in the learning/relearning
phase. I usually suggest a load of firewood, preferably green firewood,
as a great turning tutorial. But it depends what you want - green
firewood is not the best choice for table legs, usually. Burn or
barbecue with your learning experiences that are not keepers.

Hardwoods are generally better, but softwoods can certainly be turned,
and some are quite beautiful. All the woods you list are perfectly fine
for turning, though they will behave (and look) somewhat differently and
some will dictate different wall thicknesses for a successful, lasting
result. Open grain, thin-walled, end-grain areas tend to break easily,
for instance.

Smaller diameter = faster speed. I think somewhere I have a
cabinet-making book that suggests particular ranges of speed (in surface
feet per minute, from which you can calculate RPM for a diameter) but in
general, having easily variable speed and finding what works is as
effective. Below some size, you go as fast as your lathe will go. With
large unbalanced pieces getting roughed, you go slowly enough that the
lathe stays put, and the wood stays in the lathe.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.
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On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:10:06 -0500, Vic Baron wrote
(in message ):

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl. Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic



As lawrencE said, all the woods you listed are good. The cheaper stuff is
good for learning and practicing. You will notice that each kind of wood will
have its own rules, too, regarding speeds, tool sharpness and technique.
I have been amazed at the amount of turning videos I have seen on youtube.
All you need is the right search terms, and you're good. One good turning
video will lead to another, as well.
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

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"tom koehler" wrote in
message net.net...
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:10:06 -0500, Vic Baron wrote
(in message ):

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY
years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and
spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a
lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools
that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl.
Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing
the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open
grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have
to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic



As lawrencE said, all the woods you listed are good. The cheaper stuff is
good for learning and practicing. You will notice that each kind of wood
will
have its own rules, too, regarding speeds, tool sharpness and technique.
I have been amazed at the amount of turning videos I have seen on youtube.
All you need is the right search terms, and you're good. One good turning
video will lead to another, as well.
tom koehler



You bet! I've been watching a bunch, including the one where the guy made a
bowl from a cut off log using a foot powered lathe. Great!

Interesting in watching techniques - some use the roughing gouge like a
scraper - point first, others angle it and use the edge to cut. Both seem to
work just fine. Saw one guy catch the point of his skew in the work - I
don't feel so bad now. Only did it once - scared the hell out of me but
didn't really hurt anything.

So many different tool shapes all doing the same things. Different
sharpening techniques - with a guide and freehand.
Using the point of the skew or using the heel. Different grinding angles,
etc. All informative and leading me to the conclusion that, after the
basics, it's really a matter of individual style.

Hope to try a simple end grain hollowing out this weekend.

Vic

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John Lucas has 10 pretty good videos that are great for newbies.
search you tube for "john60lucas".

If you're going to do cups and boxes, and even knobs, you'll need
a scroll chuck with several size jaw sets in order to hollow and to
finish off the tops of pulls.

Boxes also require that you do things in a specific order or you
can find yourself in a box canyon - no way to hold a part to do
the next operation. This stuff may save you some grief

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...iddedBox0.html

You didn't mention if you have a grinder and sharpening jigs. Turning
with dull tools will make things so much harder than turning with
sharp tools, especially if you're turning pine, douglas fir, redwood or
other softwoods.

charlie b


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"charlie b" wrote in message
...
John Lucas has 10 pretty good videos that are great for newbies.
search you tube for "john60lucas".

If you're going to do cups and boxes, and even knobs, you'll need
a scroll chuck with several size jaw sets in order to hollow and to
finish off the tops of pulls.

Boxes also require that you do things in a specific order or you
can find yourself in a box canyon - no way to hold a part to do
the next operation. This stuff may save you some grief

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...iddedBox0.html

You didn't mention if you have a grinder and sharpening jigs. Turning
with dull tools will make things so much harder than turning with
sharp tools, especially if you're turning pine, douglas fir, redwood or
other softwoods.



Picked up a couple of chucks and jaw sets. Have a dry and wet grinder and
some simple jigs. Looked at the Wolverine but will se how I do freehand or
with some other home made jigs.

Great link on the Lidded Box! Have seen videos of that but not the step by
step way he goes through it.

Thanx!

Vic

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Darrel's site is a good one, especially in the line of home-made jigs
and tools.

http://aroundthewoods.com/

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.
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Once you get lidded boxes down and finialed lidded boxes down, try an
inlayed rim finialed lidded box. Step by step here

http://svwoodturners.org/Demonstrato...oxProcess.html

I put this illustrated step by step together from my notes of a Cindy
Drozda demo day.
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"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Once you get lidded boxes down and finialed lidded boxes down, try an
inlayed rim finialed lidded box. Step by step here

http://svwoodturners.org/Demonstrato...oxProcess.html

I put this illustrated step by step together from my notes of a Cindy
Drozda demo day.



ayup! down the road a piece for me, I fear! But - something to look forward
to!!



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On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:10:06 -0700, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

There are several lathe speed charts for different diameter pieces,
but I think they're sort of dangerous as they assume each piece is
round, balanced and solid..

My general rule is to turn each piece at as high a speed that you feel
safe and the lathe is steady..
I feel that I get a much smoother cut at higher speeds and with less
pressure..

Things that limit speed are unbalanced pieces, cracks in the wood,
knots that might be loose, loose bark/dirt, etc..

Common sense will keep you safe, just as it does with your flat work..

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl. Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic



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That makes a lot of sense! I still have all my digits mainly because if I
didn't feel comfortable doing a specific cut, I didn't do it. And I am the
world's oldest chicken!




wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:10:06 -0700, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

There are several lathe speed charts for different diameter pieces,
but I think they're sort of dangerous as they assume each piece is
round, balanced and solid..

My general rule is to turn each piece at as high a speed that you feel
safe and the lathe is steady..
I feel that I get a much smoother cut at higher speeds and with less
pressure..

Things that limit speed are unbalanced pieces, cracks in the wood,
knots that might be loose, loose bark/dirt, etc..

Common sense will keep you safe, just as it does with your flat work..

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and
spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools
that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl.
Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing
the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open
grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have
to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic


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On 10/6/2011 10:54 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:10:06 -0700, "Vic
wrote:

There are several lathe speed charts for different diameter pieces,
but I think they're sort of dangerous as they assume each piece is
round, balanced and solid..

My general rule is to turn each piece at as high a speed that you feel
safe and the lathe is steady..
I feel that I get a much smoother cut at higher speeds and with less
pressure..

Things that limit speed are unbalanced pieces, cracks in the wood,
knots that might be loose, loose bark/dirt, etc..

Common sense will keep you safe, just as it does with your flat work..

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl. Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic


an addendum if you please - as I was learning, there came a time when I
was "too bold" and spun pieces too fast - probably not an issue with a
one or two inch diameter item, but with an 8 or 12 or 24 inch diameter
item, it makes a huge difference, it's easy to go too fast and you can
explode the work due to centrifugal stress
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On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 08:24:55 -0700, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

That makes a lot of sense! I still have all my digits mainly because if I
didn't feel comfortable doing a specific cut, I didn't do it. And I am the
world's oldest chicken!


When I stop being afraid of what my tools could do to me if/when I get
stupid, I'll stop using them... Fine line between respect and fear

One thing that I forgot to mention.. The "throw zone" on a lathe is
usually pretty much where it is on a table saw blade.. Don't stand
there...
If I'm using a lathe that doesn't have a remote on/off, like my Nova,
I'll stand next to the headstock, behind the bowl or whatever, when I
turn the lathe on..
I've had pieces break up at pretty high speed but never had anything
hit me.. Most pieces seem to go pretty much straight up or straight
down..




wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:10:06 -0700, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

There are several lathe speed charts for different diameter pieces,
but I think they're sort of dangerous as they assume each piece is
round, balanced and solid..

My general rule is to turn each piece at as high a speed that you feel
safe and the lathe is steady..
I feel that I get a much smoother cut at higher speeds and with less
pressure..

Things that limit speed are unbalanced pieces, cracks in the wood,
knots that might be loose, loose bark/dirt, etc..

Common sense will keep you safe, just as it does with your flat work..

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and
spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools
that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl.
Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing
the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open
grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have
to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic

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wrote:
On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 08:24:55 -0700, "Vic
wrote:

That makes a lot of sense! I still have all my digits mainly because if I
didn't feel comfortable doing a specific cut, I didn't do it. And I am the
world's oldest chicken!


When I stop being afraid of what my tools could do to me if/when I get
stupid, I'll stop using them... Fine line between respect and fear

One thing that I forgot to mention.. The "throw zone" on a lathe is
usually pretty much where it is on a table saw blade.. Don't stand
there...
If I'm using a lathe that doesn't have a remote on/off, like my Nova,


Oh thou of little trust! I told you how to put on a remote off button,
even sent pictures. Mine still works great though I had to replace
the push
switch. Wore it out.



I'll stand next to the headstock, behind the bowl or whatever, when I
turn the lathe on..
I've had pieces break up at pretty high speed but never had anything
hit me.. Most pieces seem to go pretty much straight up or straight
down..




wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:10:06 -0700, "Vic
wrote:

There are several lathe speed charts for different diameter pieces,
but I think they're sort of dangerous as they assume each piece is
round, balanced and solid..

My general rule is to turn each piece at as high a speed that you feel
safe and the lathe is steady..
I feel that I get a much smoother cut at higher speeds and with less
pressure..

Things that limit speed are unbalanced pieces, cracks in the wood,
knots that might be loose, loose bark/dirt, etc..

Common sense will keep you safe, just as it does with your flat work..

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and
spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools
that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl.
Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into listing
the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open
grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I have
to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic



--
Gerald Ross

What's a nice girl like you doing in a
dirty mind like mine?






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I'd be interested in that remote switch. If you still have those pix, I'd
like to see them.

Thanx,

Vic

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 08:24:55 -0700, "Vic
wrote:

That makes a lot of sense! I still have all my digits mainly because if I
didn't feel comfortable doing a specific cut, I didn't do it. And I am
the
world's oldest chicken!


When I stop being afraid of what my tools could do to me if/when I get
stupid, I'll stop using them... Fine line between respect and fear

One thing that I forgot to mention.. The "throw zone" on a lathe is
usually pretty much where it is on a table saw blade.. Don't stand
there...
If I'm using a lathe that doesn't have a remote on/off, like my Nova,


Oh thou of little trust! I told you how to put on a remote off button,
even sent pictures. Mine still works great though I had to replace the
push
switch. Wore it out.



I'll stand next to the headstock, behind the bowl or whatever, when I
turn the lathe on..
I've had pieces break up at pretty high speed but never had anything
hit me.. Most pieces seem to go pretty much straight up or straight
down..




wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:10:06 -0700, "Vic
wrote:

There are several lathe speed charts for different diameter pieces,
but I think they're sort of dangerous as they assume each piece is
round, balanced and solid..

My general rule is to turn each piece at as high a speed that you feel
safe and the lathe is steady..
I feel that I get a much smoother cut at higher speeds and with less
pressure..

Things that limit speed are unbalanced pieces, cracks in the wood,
knots that might be loose, loose bark/dirt, etc..

Common sense will keep you safe, just as it does with your flat work..

Hi -

First post - going to be fun setting up the kill filter!

Been a wrecker for years and am just getting back into turning. MANY
years
ago I had an old Shopsmith which I used as a lathe to make legs and
spindles
for various projects. So turning isn't completely foreign but I have a
lot
to learn. Bought an inexpensive mini lathe from Rockler and a few tools
that
I didn't have from my old turning adventures.

I plan on making cups, boxes, knobs - maybe eventually I'll try a bowl.
Not
much interested in pens.

Bought a few books but frankly they weren't too good - more into
listing
the
parts of the lathe and the names of the tools and basically what they
are
used for.

The questions I have are many but a few for starters -

Where can I find out what kind of wood is good for turning? I have oak,
walnut, maple, mahogany and some expensive unusual woods. I guess what
puzzles me is should I use soft woods, hard woods, close grain or open
grain
and what are the benefits and pitfalls of same.

Another - is there a guide for size of turning vs speed?

unfortunately I do not have the time to go to a turner's class so I
have
to
rely on reading, you tube, Usenet and practice.

What books/dvd's would you suggest for a slightly experienced beginner?

Thanx,

Vic



--
Gerald Ross

What's a nice girl like you doing in a
dirty mind like mine?








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Vic Baron wrote:
I'd be interested in that remote switch. If you still have those pix, I'd
like to see them.


They are about wiring a remote switch on a Nova DVR XP, which uses all
electronic controls. Don't think they would work on a Rockler. Even
if it had a circuit board it would
doubtless be different.
--
Gerald Ross

What's a nice girl like you doing in a
dirty mind like mine?






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On 10/07/2011 09:29 PM, wrote:

If I'm using a lathe that doesn't have a remote on/off, like my Nova,
I'll stand next to the headstock, behind the bowl or whatever, when I
turn the lathe on..
I've had pieces break up at pretty high speed but never had anything
hit me.. Most pieces seem to go pretty much straight up or straight
down..


Not always. I've had them hit me in the chest so hard it almost knocked
the wind out of me. I had to just hold onto the stand for about 5
minutes to recover. Left a dinner plate size bruise. Almost posted a
photo in a.b.p.w.

I have a quick way to turn off the lathe though that Mike Paulson (a pro
turner in Colorado) turned me onto. See
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb/stand.htm for a short write-up and photo.

Essentially I put a kick board at the foot of the the lathe so I can
just tap it w/my foot and turn it off. I can be several feet away from
the actual on/off switch. It's incredibly handy in addition to being a
nice safety feature. Probably won't work on all lathes, but if one has
a toggle switch it's great...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller - http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
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On 10/8/2011 2:08 PM, Kevin Miller wrote:
On 10/07/2011 09:29 PM, wrote:

If I'm using a lathe that doesn't have a remote on/off, like my Nova,
I'll stand next to the headstock, behind the bowl or whatever, when I
turn the lathe on..
I've had pieces break up at pretty high speed but never had anything
hit me.. Most pieces seem to go pretty much straight up or straight
down..


Not always. I've had them hit me in the chest so hard it almost knocked
the wind out of me. I had to just hold onto the stand for about 5
minutes to recover. Left a dinner plate size bruise. Almost posted a
photo in a.b.p.w.

I have a quick way to turn off the lathe though that Mike Paulson (a pro
turner in Colorado) turned me onto. See
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb/stand.htm for a short write-up and photo.

Essentially I put a kick board at the foot of the the lathe so I can
just tap it w/my foot and turn it off. I can be several feet away from
the actual on/off switch. It's incredibly handy in addition to being a
nice safety feature. Probably won't work on all lathes, but if one has a
toggle switch it's great...

...Kevin


if you arrange that kick switch so it interrupts the primary power to
the lathe, it will work with any lathe, just make sure that the switch
rating can handle the full power of the lathe. Remember, no electricity
in, no power out of the motor
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"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Vic Baron wrote:
I'd be interested in that remote switch. If you still have those pix, I'd
like to see them.


They are about wiring a remote switch on a Nova DVR XP, which uses all
electronic controls. Don't think they would work on a Rockler. Even if
it had a circuit board it would
doubtless be different.



Ah - understood.

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On Sat, 08 Oct 2011 06:21:18 -0400, Gerald Ross
wrote:

Oh thou of little trust! I told you how to put on a remote off button,
even sent pictures. Mine still works great though I had to replace
the push
switch. Wore it out.

I'm not anywhere near knowledgeable or skilled to make that mod,
Gerald...


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On Sat, 08 Oct 2011 13:08:57 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:


I have a quick way to turn off the lathe though that Mike Paulson (a pro
turner in Colorado) turned me onto. See
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb/stand.htm for a short write-up and photo.

Essentially I put a kick board at the foot of the the lathe so I can
just tap it w/my foot and turn it off. I can be several feet away from
the actual on/off switch. It's incredibly handy in addition to being a
nice safety feature. Probably won't work on all lathes, but if one has
a toggle switch it's great...

...Kevin


On all but the Nova, I just use a household electrical box with a
large "pull on/ push off" switch on the face.. I replaced the original
knob with a larger one that I turned..
The box has a magnet epoxied to the back so that it sticks to whatever
part of the lathe that you're working near..
I usually position it so I can hit it with a hip or elbow in case both
hands are busy...
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