Turning spruce--followup
 

After the roughed bowls were dry (no longer loosing weight) I finished
turning a couple and finished them with the usual shellac/wax finish
(Crystal Coat). In two days they were sticky.

I wiped them down with acetone and sanded down to the bare wood.
Applied two coats of polymerized tung oil (Lee Valley). They looked
good for nearly a week then the sap mixed with the tung oil and made a
wrinkled soft mess over the heartwood.

Scraped and sanded to the bare wood, applied two coats of Bull's eye
shellac, using 0000 steel wool after each coat was dry. Again used
the polymerized tung oil. Same result only it took longer to wrinkle up.

Scraped, sanded, acetone then 4 coats of shellac until a slightly
glossy finish, then two coats of tung oil. So far this has stayed
hard and the grain shows well. The only problem is getting a level
coating each time, requiring steel wool to even it up.

I would have never fooled with the stuff if it hadn't been for the
sentimental value of the tree and folks wanting bowls from it.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder.

Turning spruce--followup
 

On 05/05/2011 05:42 AM, Gerald Ross wrote:
After the roughed bowls were dry (no longer loosing weight) I finished
turning a couple and finished them with the usual shellac/wax finish
(Crystal Coat). In two days they were sticky.

I wiped them down with acetone and sanded down to the bare wood. Applied
two coats of polymerized tung oil (Lee Valley). They looked good for
nearly a week then the sap mixed with the tung oil and made a wrinkled
soft mess over the heartwood.

Scraped and sanded to the bare wood, applied two coats of Bull's eye
shellac, using 0000 steel wool after each coat was dry. Again used the
polymerized tung oil. Same result only it took longer to wrinkle up.

Scraped, sanded, acetone then 4 coats of shellac until a slightly glossy
finish, then two coats of tung oil. So far this has stayed hard and the
grain shows well. The only problem is getting a level coating each time,
requiring steel wool to even it up.

I would have never fooled with the stuff if it hadn't been for the
sentimental value of the tree and folks wanting bowls from it.

You should have cooked the bowl to crystallize the sap...

--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

Turning spruce--followup
 

Kevin Miller wrote:
On 05/05/2011 05:42 AM, Gerald Ross wrote:
After the roughed bowls were dry (no longer loosing weight) I finished
turning a couple and finished them with the usual shellac/wax finish
(Crystal Coat). In two days they were sticky.

I wiped them down with acetone and sanded down to the bare wood. Applied
two coats of polymerized tung oil (Lee Valley). They looked good for
nearly a week then the sap mixed with the tung oil and made a wrinkled
soft mess over the heartwood.

Scraped and sanded to the bare wood, applied two coats of Bull's eye
shellac, using 0000 steel wool after each coat was dry. Again used the
polymerized tung oil. Same result only it took longer to wrinkle up.

Scraped, sanded, acetone then 4 coats of shellac until a slightly glossy
finish, then two coats of tung oil. So far this has stayed hard and the
grain shows well. The only problem is getting a level coating each time,
requiring steel wool to even it up.

I would have never fooled with the stuff if it hadn't been for the
sentimental value of the tree and folks wanting bowls from it.

You should have cooked the bowl to crystallize the sap...

My microwave is too small. :)

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Puritanism: The haunting fear that
someone, somewhere may be having fun.

Turning spruce--followup
 

On Thu, 05 May 2011 09:42:40 -0400, Gerald Ross
wrote:

I'm convinced.. I'll never turn spruce..
Thanks for the feedback, Gerald..


After the roughed bowls were dry (no longer loosing weight) I finished
turning a couple and finished them with the usual shellac/wax finish
(Crystal Coat). In two days they were sticky.

I wiped them down with acetone and sanded down to the bare wood.
Applied two coats of polymerized tung oil (Lee Valley). They looked
good for nearly a week then the sap mixed with the tung oil and made a
wrinkled soft mess over the heartwood.

Scraped and sanded to the bare wood, applied two coats of Bull's eye
shellac, using 0000 steel wool after each coat was dry. Again used
the polymerized tung oil. Same result only it took longer to wrinkle up.

Scraped, sanded, acetone then 4 coats of shellac until a slightly
glossy finish, then two coats of tung oil. So far this has stayed
hard and the grain shows well. The only problem is getting a level
coating each time, requiring steel wool to even it up.

I would have never fooled with the stuff if it hadn't been for the
sentimental value of the tree and folks wanting bowls from it.

Turning spruce--followup
 

On 05/05/2011 04:39 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
Kevin Miller wrote:
snip
You should have cooked the bowl to crystallize the sap...

My microwave is too small. :)

Nah, no microwaves - we're talking slow roast here. 350 degrees for a
half hour in the big oven (until tender, season to suit).

Just make sure a drip pan is in place!

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers