I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a tenon
but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

"Russ Stanton" wrote: (clip) Would double side tape from a woodworking
store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I wouldn't trust it. A failure would most likely result in damage to the
blank, and lots of difficulty in recentering.

I suggest white glue.

Russ Stanton wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about
2 inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for
these small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ
I would use brown paper bag and white glue. All the bowls I do, small
and large, get this process, no failures and easy to seperate. (knock on
wood)

On Jul 11, 10:12 am, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a tenon
but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

Hello Russ,

When turning small bowls like you are planning, I mount a piece of end
grain wood in a chuck, turn a tenon to fit the chuck jaws, reverse
into the chuck and part off all but about one inch. Turning the end
round and flat. I then glue this to the center of the bowl blank with
Tite Bond II glue or medium thick CA glue. When the glue has had time
to set, overnight for Tite Bond II and five minutes for the CA glue. I
mount the tenon back in the chuck with the bowl blank attached. I then
turn the bowl inside and out, making sure that I don't get the bottom
too thin. After sanding and finishing, I use a thin parting tool to
part the tenon from the bowl. I then reverse the bowl in a jam fit
chuck, vacuum chuck, or other chuck designed for this purpose, and
turn off the remaining portion of the tenon for holding the bowl, sand
the bottom, sign it, date it, and note the type of wood. I then apply
finish to the bottom portion.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

I'd take white glue and glue on a piece of grocery bag. That paper
will hold up fortified with glue on both sides and between a faceplate
mounted board and the bottom of the bowl blank.

When you want to part the block and bowl - a chisel press between will
wedge the two apart by tearing paper.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 7/11/2010 12:12 PM, Russ Stanton wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2 inches
deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a tenon but want to
try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these small
blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

On 7/11/2010 1:12 PM, Russ Stanton wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about
2 inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for
these small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

I went to a turning demonstration. They where using double sided carpet
tape and having never seen that done I was quite amazed. It appeared to
work very well.

Russ Stanton wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a tenon
but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

I have turned many drink coasters and such thin objects using double
sided tape without mishap. Never tried a bowl.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

You can lead a horse to water, but if
you can get him to swim on his back,
you've got something.

Russ Stanton wrote:

I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

I tend to agree with Leo and Martin. The double sided tape could well fail
and the "paper" joint gives both a strong and easily cleaved joint.

Deb

In article ,
Norvin Gordon wrote:

I would use brown paper bag and white glue. All the bowls I do, small
and large, get this process, no failures and easy to seperate. (knock on
wood)

I've used this process quite successfully. An old hand I talked to at a
turning symposium claimed that onionskin (really thin typing paper,
might be harder to find these days) makes a stronger but still separable
joint. Perhaps that would mean that thinner brown paper would likewise
make a stronger joint that thicker brown paper. I doubt it matters much
most of the time - I have not had one part company using white glue and
paper bags, or white glue and newsprint, but that bit of secondhand lore
is available for testing if anyone sees the need. Somehow, not involving
a lot of expensive toys associated with advertisers, I doubt fine
woodworking would be willing to pay for an article where this theory
gets tested.

IIRC lots of folks here also use (or used to use) hot glue for temporary
mounts, though I suspect they are weaker than the white glue/paper
approach. I've roughed bowl blanks down from square on white glue/paper.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Fred Holder" wrote in message
...
On Jul 11, 10:12 am, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon
but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for
these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

Hello Russ,

When turning small bowls like you are planning, I mount a piece of end
grain wood in a chuck, turn a tenon to fit the chuck jaws, reverse
into the chuck and part off all but about one inch. Turning the end
round and flat. I then glue this to the center of the bowl blank with
Tite Bond II glue or medium thick CA glue. When the glue has had time
to set, overnight for Tite Bond II and five minutes for the CA glue. I
mount the tenon back in the chuck with the bowl blank attached. I then
turn the bowl inside and out, making sure that I don't get the bottom
too thin. After sanding and finishing, I use a thin parting tool to
part the tenon from the bowl. I then reverse the bowl in a jam fit
chuck, vacuum chuck, or other chuck designed for this purpose, and
turn off the remaining portion of the tenon for holding the bowl, sand
the bottom, sign it, date it, and note the type of wood. I then apply
finish to the bottom portion.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

Fred

Thanks for the very complete reply. Is there a reason to turn the waste
block from end grain?

Russ

Dr.Deb wrote:
Russ Stanton wrote:

I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

I tend to agree with Leo and Martin. The double sided tape could well fail
and the "paper" joint gives both a strong and easily cleaved joint.

Deb

I don't understand why the need to "easily" separate the tenon from the
bowl. Can't you just glue the tenon directly to the bowl blank and then
part off on the bowl side of the glue joint?

"Woody" wrote: I don't understand why the need to "easily" separate the
tenon from the
bowl. Can't you just glue the tenon directly to the bowl blank and then
part off on the bowl side of the glue joint?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I see it the same way. The extra effort to soak the paper with glue and
position it seem to outweigh any extra parting effort. Don't you have to
clean up the fuzz left by the paper?

"Russ Stanton" writes:

Thanks for the very complete reply. Is there a reason to turn the
waste block from end grain?


So the tenon doesn't split along the grain.

You want the grain to be horizontal, not vertical.

"Leo Lichtman" writes:

"Woody" wrote: I don't understand why the need to "easily" separate the
tenon from the
bowl. Can't you just glue the tenon directly to the bowl blank and then
part off on the bowl side of the glue joint?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I see it the same way. The extra effort to soak the paper with glue and
position it seem to outweigh any extra parting effort. Don't you have to
clean up the fuzz left by the paper?

I just posted something regarding the direction of the grain, and now
I am not sure I understand Fred's suggestion.

If you glue a wood stub (w/tenon) to the wood blank (no paper) then either
1) The stub has the grain horizontally
or
2) The grain is vertical.

If horizontal, then you are gluing end grain to side grain, and
that's not a strong joint. The joint might fail.

If vertical, then the tenon might split off during the turning process.

Fred - can you clarify?

If you put paper in between, would that make
the end-grain to side grain joint less of an issue?

On Jul 12, 8:14 am, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
"Fred Holder" wrote in message

...



On Jul 11, 10:12 am, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon
but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for
these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ

Hello Russ,

When turning small bowls like you are planning, I mount a piece of end
grain wood in a chuck, turn a tenon to fit the chuck jaws, reverse
into the chuck and part off all but about one inch. Turning the end
round and flat. I then glue this to the center of the bowl blank with
Tite Bond II glue or medium thick CA glue. When the glue has had time
to set, overnight for Tite Bond II and five minutes for the CA glue. I
mount the tenon back in the chuck with the bowl blank attached. I then
turn the bowl inside and out, making sure that I don't get the bottom
too thin. After sanding and finishing, I use a thin parting tool to
part the tenon from the bowl. I then reverse the bowl in a jam fit
chuck, vacuum chuck, or other chuck designed for this purpose, and
turn off the remaining portion of the tenon for holding the bowl, sand
the bottom, sign it, date it, and note the type of wood. I then apply
finish to the bottom portion.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

Fred

Thanks for the very complete reply. Is there a reason to turn the waste
block from end grain?

Russ


Hello Russ,

Not really any specific reason. Side grain will also work just fine.
However, a chuck grips the endgrain better. If you are using a
faceplate, I think that side grain wood would perhaps work better.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

"Norvin Gordon" wrote in message
...
Russ Stanton wrote:
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a
tenon but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for
these small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ
I would use brown paper bag and white glue. All the bowls I do, small and
large, get this process, no failures and easy to seperate. (knock on wood)

That's what was taught in high school wood shop many year ago -- that was
B.C. (Before chucks).

We used Kraft paper and white glue, and then screwed a face plate to the
glue block. As I recall, at the end of turning, we used a wood chisel to
separate the two at the paper line, then finished up with a light sanding to
get rid of the traces of glue and paper.

"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I want to try turning some small bowls using $ inch square blanks about 2
inches deep. Since these are samll I do not want to waste wood with a tenon
but want to try using a waste block on a faceplate.
Would double side tape from a woodworking store be strong enough for these
small blanks?
If not what would be suggested?
TIA
Russ
Woodcraft sells a two-sided tape that is for lathe use. It was recommended
by the Clearwater store's expert on turning -- I bought some but haven't had
a chance to start using it yet.

On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:25:22 -0500, Leo Lichtman wrote
(in message ) :


"Woody" wrote: I don't understand why the need to "easily" separate the
tenon from the
bowl. Can't you just glue the tenon directly to the bowl blank and then
part off on the bowl side of the glue joint?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I see it the same way. The extra effort to soak the paper with glue and
position it seem to outweigh any extra parting effort. Don't you have to
clean up the fuzz left by the paper?



The attraction is that if a paper joint is used, you can separate the work
from the mounting block with a chisel and mallet, taking just a moment. Yes,
sanding is required to clean off the paper and glue, but this will still be
faster and easier than using a parting tool. In the case of a footed bowl,
the paper and glue residue is turned off instead of sanding.
To repeat, ease of separation is the reason for a glue and paper joint.
respectfully,
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

tom koehler wrote:
On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:25:22 -0500, Leo Lichtman wrote
(in message ) :

"Woody" wrote: I don't understand why the need to "easily" separate the
tenon from the
bowl. Can't you just glue the tenon directly to the bowl blank and then
part off on the bowl side of the glue joint?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I see it the same way. The extra effort to soak the paper with glue and
position it seem to outweigh any extra parting effort. Don't you have to
clean up the fuzz left by the paper?



The attraction is that if a paper joint is used, you can separate the work
from the mounting block with a chisel and mallet, taking just a moment. Yes,
sanding is required to clean off the paper and glue, but this will still be
faster and easier than using a parting tool. In the case of a footed bowl,
the paper and glue residue is turned off instead of sanding.
To repeat, ease of separation is the reason for a glue and paper joint.
respectfully,
tom koehler


My comment was directed not to end-grain glue up, but to why you need to
"easily" separate the tenon (regardless of grain orientation) from the
bowl. Since I always finish the bottom of my bowls by turning a "rim" on
the foot and then making them slightly concave within the foot, any
waste wood from the tenon is turned away. They also set better than a
flat-bottomed bowl.

~Mark.

In article ,
Woody wrote:

My comment was directed not to end-grain glue up, but to why you need to
"easily" separate the tenon (regardless of grain orientation) from the
bowl. Since I always finish the bottom of my bowls by turning a "rim" on
the foot and then making them slightly concave within the foot, any
waste wood from the tenon is turned away. They also set better than a
flat-bottomed bowl.

~Mark.

Well, for one thing, you can keep using the same faceplate block, rather
than wasting 1/8-1/4 inch of either block or stock on the parting. Given
that the main point is to not waste extra stock, not wasting extra stock
(even if it is less expensive stock than the bowl blanks) on faceplate
blocks is also good. As someone else mentioned, this is a technique from
the time Before Chucks - it also (if you have the time) works Better
than Chucks (I've certainly had things creep in my chuck, and that does
not happen with a waste block screwed to a faceplate, barring serious
disasters.)

If you have a chuck (or a BC chuck substitute, such as a disc with
grooves and hot glue) for reverse-chucking the bowl, turning the foot
when chucked in reverse is not impeded by half a sheet of paper. And a
whack with a blade and mallet is a lot faster than parting off.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Woody wrote:

My comment was directed not to end-grain glue up, but to why you need to
"easily" separate the tenon (regardless of grain orientation) from the
bowl. Since I always finish the bottom of my bowls by turning a "rim" on
the foot and then making them slightly concave within the foot, any
waste wood from the tenon is turned away. They also set better than a
flat-bottomed bowl.

~Mark.

Well, for one thing, you can keep using the same faceplate block, rather
than wasting 1/8-1/4 inch of either block or stock on the parting. Given
that the main point is to not waste extra stock, not wasting extra stock
(even if it is less expensive stock than the bowl blanks) on faceplate
blocks is also good. As someone else mentioned, this is a technique from
the time Before Chucks - it also (if you have the time) works Better
than Chucks (I've certainly had things creep in my chuck, and that does
not happen with a waste block screwed to a faceplate, barring serious
disasters.)

If you have a chuck (or a BC chuck substitute, such as a disc with
grooves and hot glue) for reverse-chucking the bowl, turning the foot
when chucked in reverse is not impeded by half a sheet of paper. And a
whack with a blade and mallet is a lot faster than parting off.

true enough, but if you are turning aggressively it's easy to shear the
paper - much easier to use a thin waste block if your wood is really
valuable - 3/16 to 1/4 of scrap is plenty, glue it on for real, turn the
shape, then just reverse and turn it off - if you are using a wood worm or a
faceplate you need a bit more thickness, but getting little scraps of 2X4s
from a construction site is a cheap way to get wood - you don't need hard
maple or such for a waste block.

Or, you can hit the waste block with a chisel/hammer a bit on the waste side
of the glue line and split it off.

Paper works fine if you are gentle

Russ' question re double sided tape seems to have morphed into how best
to glue a little blank to a waste block. That's one way, but messy and
takes time. Unless the blank is 18ct gold and even if I am a thrifty
Scot with the generosity removed, I'd waste a 1/16 in. or less of it
with a tenon and drive it with a chuck. Doesn't take much tenon with
modern chucks. I'd just make sure the jaw's leading edges abut the wood
squarely.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Arch" wrote in message
...


Russ' question re double sided tape seems to have morphed into how best
to glue a little blank to a waste block. That's one way, but messy and
takes time. Unless the blank is 18ct gold and even if I am a thrifty
Scot with the generosity removed, I'd waste a 1/16 in. or less of it
with a tenon and drive it with a chuck. Doesn't take much tenon with
modern chucks. I'd just make sure the jaw's leading edges abut the wood
squarely.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

I'm an even thriftier Scot and widnae buy the chuck. Get the correct size
tap and drill and Make your own. Drill the appropriate size hole in a piece
of scrap and tap for your lathe. Mount on the lathe, turn to round and mark
the external position of the headstock spindle with red felt tip - you don't
want to try parting That. Glue the work to the faceplate and turn away! Just
part from the wooden block when done.

I picked this up from the Rev's site and used it while I had my Nova. IIRC,
I included the tap and drill when I sold the lathe.