I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the inside and outside of some maple bowels.
It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the density of the wood being turned?
Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.

Dan

That should be "Bowls"

Sorry about that.....Dan


"Dan Jefferson" wrote in message ...
I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the inside and outside of some maple bowels.
It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the density of the wood being turned?
Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.

Dan

On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:37:55 -0600, Dan Jefferson wrote
(in message ):

That should be "Bowls"

Sorry about that.....Dan


"Dan Jefferson" wrote in message
...
I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the inside
and outside of some maple bowels.
It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It
is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within
the density of the wood being turned?
Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.

Dan

Consider the use of a hand plane for smoothing a board. It will be the case
that a change in the grain along the length of the board will result in a
smoothing job that looks and feels wonderful except in those places where
there is a change in the grain. No matter which direction you go with the
plane, you will at some point be planing in the "wrong" direction. So it is
with the lathe. Yes, it is a change in the density or perhaps the direction
of the grain. Could be a burl or a swirl or a curl. Try the lightest touch
with your chisel or gouge, to remove just a suspicion of wood with each pass,
using the very sharpest cutting edge you can manage. Some turners will also
treat the wood with some kind of penetrating liquid - a glue or varnish of
some kind - to bolster or stiffen the fibers and make them less likely to
tear or crush. I have never tried those products yet, myself, but many other
turners here have experience with these methods. They will soon give you the
details, I am sure.
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 19:28:00 -0500, "Dan Jefferson"
wrote:

I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the inside and outside of some maple bowels.
It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the density of the wood being turned?
Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.

Dan

There is no easy answer, Dan, but "most" tearout is from either the tool not
being sharp enough or your cutting/shearing angle being wrong..

If I make a few passes after sharpening and it's still tearing out, I throw in
the towel and use a scraper.. Same as any tool, sharp and light cuts..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Feb 14, 4:28 pm, "Dan Jefferson" wrote:
I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the inside and outside of some maple bowels.
It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the density of the wood being turned?
Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.

Dan


Hello Dan,

You've received some good replies and sharp tools is probably the
reason for the tearout. However, you must realize that when turning a
bowl there is alternating side grain and endgrain. The endgrain is the
place where the tearout is most likely to happen. If the wood is
slightly spalted or even starting to rot the end grain will be very
difficult to completely avoid some tearout. I have a bowl in work now
that is heavily spalted. A few passes with a very sharp chisel gave me
tremendous tearout on the end grain portion. I soaked it for a day is
Turner's Choice and let it dry for about three days and then remounted
it. A pass with a sharp gouge and there was no longer tearout. I've
found that Turner's Choice, which is expensive, makes any wood turn
easier and with less tearout.

I have no relation to Turner's Choice except that they have been an
advertiser in More Woodturning magazine. I believe their advertisement
is in the sample issue available on my web site.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

Dan Jefferson wrote:
I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the
inside and outside of some maple bowels.
It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It
is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within
the density of the wood being turned?
Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.

Sharp tools are a must. Sharpen often, even before you really think you
need to.

Set your speed as fast as you can safely, and move the tool into the cut
slowly.

Make sure you're shearing and not scraping (rub the bevel).



....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
In a recent poll, seven out of ten hard drives preferred Linux.

"Dan Jefferson" writes:

I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the
inside and outside of some maple bowels. It seems to occur when
there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to
smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice. Is this a
matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the
density of the wood being turned? Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips
or advice appreciated.

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

On 02/16/2010 07:36 PM, Maxwell Lol wrote:
"Dan Jefferson" writes:

I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the
inside and outside of some maple bowels. It seems to occur when
there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to
smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice. Is this a
matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the
density of the wood being turned? Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips
or advice appreciated.

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

ROTFL!!!

--
Kevin Miller - http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
In a recent survey, 7 out of 10 hard drives preferred Linux
Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://counter.li.org

Ralph E Lindberg writes:

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

Wimp, I've sometimes started with the 60 grit gouge

Yeah. I use that for roughing.....

In article , Maxwell Lol
wrote:

Ralph E Lindberg writes:

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

Wimp, I've sometimes started with the 60 grit gouge

Yeah. I use that for roughing.....

Lucky you! Able to afford nice sandpaper for a 60 grit gouge!

We have to walk two miles in a blizzard, dodging the traffic mind you,
to get a handful of sharp pebbles from the side of the road! That's how
we do our roughing out... Mister Fancy!

-j

Help me Mama, help me Mama I'm gonna lose it all right here.........hee hee
George

"JoanD'arcRoast" wrote in message
. ..
In article , Maxwell Lol
wrote:

Ralph E Lindberg writes:

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

Wimp, I've sometimes started with the 60 grit gouge

Yeah. I use that for roughing.....

Lucky you! Able to afford nice sandpaper for a 60 grit gouge!

We have to walk two miles in a blizzard, dodging the traffic mind you,
to get a handful of sharp pebbles from the side of the road! That's how
we do our roughing out... Mister Fancy!

-j

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 05:24:17 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article ,
Maxwell Lol wrote:

"Dan Jefferson" writes:

I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the
inside and outside of some maple bowels. It seems to occur when
there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to
smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice. Is this a
matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the
density of the wood being turned? Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips
or advice appreciated.

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

Wimp, I've sometimes started with the 60 grit gouge

Yep.. I power sand with 60 grit wave disks when needed.. Time may not always be
money, but it's still time..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 05:24:17 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article ,
Maxwell Lol wrote:

"Dan Jefferson" writes:

I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the
inside and outside of some maple bowels. It seems to occur when
there is a change in the density of the wood. It is a pain to
smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice. Is this a
matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within the
density of the wood being turned? Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips
or advice appreciated.

Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.

Wimp, I've sometimes started with the 60 grit gouge

Yep.. I power sand with 60 grit wave disks when needed.. Time may not always be
money, but it's still time..

Do you ever have problems with the wave disks delaminating? I used to
use the New Wave (yellow) disks but some seemed to have poor glue
holding the fabric backing and with the least warming would sail off
like a flying saucer.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

This is a test. Had it been an actual
attack, the warning system wouldn't
have worked.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 05:51:53 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

Yep.. I power sand with 60 grit wave disks when needed.. Time may not always be
money, but it's still time..

Do you ever have problems with the wave disks delaminating? I used to
use the New Wave (yellow) disks but some seemed to have poor glue
holding the fabric backing and with the least warming would sail off
like a flying saucer.

I remember having that problem a few times, but not for a few years.. Maybe they
changed adhesive or something.. I'm not real crazy about their Velcro, though..
doesn't seem to cling as well as other brands..

I like them for sanding inside bowls because of the edge protection, but can't
use them on most of my stuff because they really suck on natural edges or
"snags" on a piece..
Love the 3M PSA disks for that kind of stuff..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing