I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags inside
a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about 4 years
old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking eventually
these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice on preserving,
reviving or extending the life of these things.. Thanks.. -Jim

In message , Jim Hall
writes
I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags inside
a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about 4 years
old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking eventually
these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice on
preserving, reviving or extending the life of these things.. Thanks.. -Jim

My basic understanding is many wax based with any abrasive suspended in
the wax. So re-melting may be an option
--
John

Just don't get it to hot. You will boil off the lighter oils.
That might be what is happening. Evaporation. Something like shoe polish
wax in a can. Cracks into wedges but can be used.

Martin

John wrote:
In message , Jim Hall
writes
I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags
inside a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about 4
years old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking
eventually these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice
on preserving, reviving or extending the life of these things..
Thanks.. -Jim

My basic understanding is many wax based with any abrasive suspended in
the wax. So re-melting may be an option

I'm thinking evaporation too.. They're still usable in the sense that
they still charge up the buffing wheels, but boy they are hard. I was
wondering if you can reverse it or slow it down a little by, say,
wrapping them in a slightly damp paper towel inside a zip-lock bag for
awhile.. Guess I'll have to experiment a little. As much as I use
them, they could last a life time.. at least my life time anyway..
-Jim

On 1/2/2010 7:21 PM, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Just don't get it to hot. You will boil off the lighter oils.
That might be what is happening. Evaporation. Something like shoe polish
wax in a can. Cracks into wedges but can be used.

Martin

John wrote:
In message , Jim Hall
writes
I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags
inside a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about
4 years old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking
eventually these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice
on preserving, reviving or extending the life of these things..
Thanks.. -Jim

My basic understanding is many wax based with any abrasive suspended
in the wax. So re-melting may be an option

what did they smell like when new? what smell is lost? find the solvent or
light oil that smells like the missing smell and add some of it to the bar
and reform it.

"Jim Hall" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking evaporation too.. They're still usable in the sense that
they still charge up the buffing wheels, but boy they are hard. I was
wondering if you can reverse it or slow it down a little by, say, wrapping
them in a slightly damp paper towel inside a zip-lock bag for awhile..
Guess I'll have to experiment a little. As much as I use them, they could
last a life time.. at least my life time anyway..
-Jim

On 1/2/2010 7:21 PM, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Just don't get it to hot. You will boil off the lighter oils.
That might be what is happening. Evaporation. Something like shoe polish
wax in a can. Cracks into wedges but can be used.

Martin

John wrote:
In message , Jim Hall
writes
I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags
inside a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about
4 years old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking
eventually these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice
on preserving, reviving or extending the life of these things..
Thanks.. -Jim

My basic understanding is many wax based with any abrasive suspended
in the wax. So re-melting may be an option

I have partial memories of someone telling me that I would get more
compound applied to the wheel if I lightly dampened the wheel with
either BLO or mineral spirits. (Can't remember which, now). If you
don't put it on lightly, you will discover why you should have as soon
as you turn the buffer on.

Old Guy

n Jan 3, 12:11*am, "Bill Noble" wrote:
what did they smell like when new? *what smell is lost? *find the solvent or
light oil that smells like the missing smell and add some of it to the bar
and reform it.

"Jim Hall" wrote in message

...



I'm thinking evaporation too.. *They're still usable in the sense that
they still charge up the buffing wheels, but boy they are hard. *I was
wondering if you can reverse it or slow it down a little by, say, wrapping
them in a slightly damp paper towel inside a zip-lock bag for awhile..
Guess I'll have to experiment a little. *As much as I use them, they could
last a life time.. at least my life time anyway..
-Jim

On 1/2/2010 7:21 PM, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Just don't get it to hot. *You will boil off the lighter oils.
That might be what is happening. Evaporation. Something like shoe polish
wax in a can. Cracks into wedges but can be used.

Martin

John wrote:
In message , Jim Hall
writes
I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags
inside a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about
4 years old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking
eventually these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice
on preserving, reviving or extending the life of these things..
Thanks.. -Jim

My basic understanding is many wax based with any abrasive suspended
in the wax. So re-melting may be an option- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for advice. I can see how too much would cause a problem. You
know I have these three bars I purchased a few years ago and I can still
get the wax on to the buffing wheels from them. Just was a little
concerned eventually they will get too hard. I'm going to try putting a
damp paper towel in one of the ziplock bags with one of the bars and see
what happens.. Maybe that will extend their life a little.. or maybe it
will become a moldy mess.. time will tell, I guess.. -Jim

On 1/4/2010 11:59 AM, Old Guy wrote:
I have partial memories of someone telling me that I would get more
compound applied to the wheel if I lightly dampened the wheel with
either BLO or mineral spirits. (Can't remember which, now). If you
don't put it on lightly, you will discover why you should have as soon
as you turn the buffer on.

Old Guy

n Jan 3, 12:11 am, "Bill wrote:
what did they smell like when new? what smell is lost? find the solvent or
light oil that smells like the missing smell and add some of it to the bar
and reform it.

"Jim wrote in message

...



I'm thinking evaporation too.. They're still usable in the sense that
they still charge up the buffing wheels, but boy they are hard. I was
wondering if you can reverse it or slow it down a little by, say, wrapping
them in a slightly damp paper towel inside a zip-lock bag for awhile..
Guess I'll have to experiment a little. As much as I use them, they could
last a life time.. at least my life time anyway..
-Jim

On 1/2/2010 7:21 PM, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Just don't get it to hot. You will boil off the lighter oils.
That might be what is happening. Evaporation. Something like shoe polish
wax in a can. Cracks into wedges but can be used.

Martin

John wrote:
In et, Jim Hall
writes
I have some of those wax bars for charging up my buffing wheels for
polishing pen turnings. I've been storing them in zip lock bags
inside a brown paper bag and they seem to be drying out. There about
4 years old. Still seems like I can charge wheels ok but thinking
eventually these things will petrify and become useless. Any advice
on preserving, reviving or extending the life of these things..
Thanks.. -Jim

My basic understanding is many wax based with any abrasive suspended
in the wax. So re-melting may be an option- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 0:17:18 -0600, Jim Hall wrote
(in message ):

Thanks for advice. I can see how too much would cause a problem. You
know I have these three bars I purchased a few years ago and I can still
get the wax on to the buffing wheels from them. Just was a little
concerned eventually they will get too hard. I'm going to try putting a
damp paper towel in one of the ziplock bags with one of the bars and see
what happens.. Maybe that will extend their life a little.. or maybe it
will become a moldy mess.. time will tell, I guess.. -Jim

On 1/4/2010 11:59 AM, Old Guy wrote:
I have partial memories of someone telling me that I would get more
compound applied to the wheel if I lightly dampened the wheel with
either BLO or mineral spirits. (Can't remember which, now). If you
don't put it on lightly, you will discover why you should have as soon
as you turn the buffer on.

Old Guy


a damp paper towel in the bag is a good idea. Would you consider dampening
the paper towel with mineral oil or mineral spirits? As you suggest, mold
might be an issue - if you use water on that bit of paper towel. Just my
opinion.
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

In message . net, tom
koehler writes
On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 0:17:18 -0600, Jim Hall wrote
(in message ):

Thanks for advice. I can see how too much would cause a problem. You
know I have these three bars I purchased a few years ago and I can still
get the wax on to the buffing wheels from them. Just was a little
concerned eventually they will get too hard. I'm going to try putting a
damp paper towel in one of the ziplock bags with one of the bars and see
what happens.. Maybe that will extend their life a little.. or maybe it
will become a moldy mess.. time will tell, I guess.. -Jim

On 1/4/2010 11:59 AM, Old Guy wrote:
I have partial memories of someone telling me that I would get more
compound applied to the wheel if I lightly dampened the wheel with
either BLO or mineral spirits. (Can't remember which, now). If you
don't put it on lightly, you will discover why you should have as soon
as you turn the buffer on.

Old Guy


a damp paper towel in the bag is a good idea. Would you consider dampening
the paper towel with mineral oil or mineral spirits? As you suggest, mold
might be an issue - if you use water on that bit of paper towel. Just my
opinion.
tom koehler

The following link may interest. And I guess a little research will
provide information on other compounds. Obviously composition will vary
depending on source.

http://www.weilercorp.com/wrbuffcompmsds.htm


Other compounds exist on the site but for White Rouge Buffing Compound
in this case

Alpha Alumina (alumina - A/O) 73.00 %
Triglycerides (animal fat) 20.00%
Tallow (tallow glyceride) 7.00%
--
John