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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
Good Day Folks
I'm getting ready to finish a red cedar bowl. I usually have a few rounds of sanding sealer on by this stage but when I applied the first coat it was blotchy. I resanded to remove the blotchs but how should I finish it. Varnish?? Danish oil? What would you suggest? Regards, RandyD rdeforge at optonline dot net |
#2
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
On Sep 13, 7:01*pm, R2 wrote:
Good Day Folks * * * * I'm getting ready to finish a red cedar bowl. I usually have a few rounds of sanding sealer on by this stage but when I applied the first coat it was blotchy. I resanded to remove the blotchs but how should I finish it. Varnish?? Danish oil? What would you suggest? Regards, RandyD rdeforge at optonline dot net Randy I assume we are talking Juniper, AKA eastern red Cedar,................... and not not Thuja plicata AKA western red Cedar The oil in Juniper plays havoc with the oils you put on it, I wouldn't use any oil on it, and it being a soft kind of wood, a not easily fixed finish would be a pain if/when the soft wood would be dented and the finish damaged. I think either no finish or shellac would be your best bet,, you could try a beeswax finish, yes soft but easily renewed. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo |
#3
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
You didn't say if this bowl is functional or purely decorative. I think
cedar (juniper) is too soft for functional bowls, but if that is what you are up to, any penetrating oil is your best bet. It won't get shiny, but you generally don't want surface build on functional pieces, anyway. For decorative pieces I have had consistent good results by sealing the wood with a few coats of shellac. You can put pretty much whatever you want on top of that for your final finish. My personal favorite on juniper is spray can satin Deft. -mike paulson, fort collins, co In article , R2 wrote: Good Day Folks I'm getting ready to finish a red cedar bowl. I usually have a few rounds of sanding sealer on by this stage but when I applied the first coat it was blotchy. I resanded to remove the blotchs but how should I finish it. Varnish?? Danish oil? What would you suggest? Regards, RandyD rdeforge at optonline dot net |
#4
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
Mike Paulson wrote:
You didn't say if this bowl is functional or purely decorative. I think cedar (juniper) is too soft for functional bowls, but if that is what you are up to, any penetrating oil is your best bet. It won't get shiny, but you generally don't want surface build on functional pieces, anyway. For decorative pieces I have had consistent good results by sealing the wood with a few coats of shellac. You can put pretty much whatever you want on top of that for your final finish. My personal favorite on juniper is spray can satin Deft. I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because the flatting agents can block the look of the grain. It's recommended to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance. I use gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods compare. Can anyone comment? |
#5
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
On Sep 15, 8:23*pm, sbnjhfty wrote:
Mike Paulson wrote: You didn't say if this bowl is functional or purely decorative. *I think cedar (juniper) is too soft for functional bowls, but if that is what you are up to, any penetrating oil is your best bet. *It won't get shiny, but you generally don't want surface build on functional pieces, anyway. *For decorative pieces I have had consistent good results by sealing the wood with a few coats of shellac. *You can put pretty much whatever you want on top of that for your final finish. *My personal favorite on juniper is spray can satin Deft. I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because the flatting agents can block the look of the grain. *It's recommended to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance. *I use gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods compare. *Can anyone comment? My understanding is that glossy coatings has nothing in the finishing material, and so makes for being able to look through the finish, even scratching the surface doesn't take that away. A satin finish has stuff in the finishing material so it looks dull, this prevent you from looking through the finish and your ability to see through the finish is taken away by the stuff in the finishing material, clear as mud ;-)) |
#6
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
Don't knock it until you've tried it. Satin lacquer (Deft) is a wonderful
finish. I have used probably 100 cans of the stuff on turnings alone. It's durable, non-yellowing, easy to apply, quick drying, and easy to repair if that is ever needed. It doesn't hide the grain that I can tell, it's just not as shiny as a gloss finish. A gloss finish dulled by abrading it with steel wool, sandpaper, or whatever, is a delicate finish that can become blotchy when the micro-abrasions become clogged with skin oil from handling, and wax will just make the piece more shiny all over. You can control the degree of gloss/satin effect by applying clear undercoats of gloss lacquer or shellac if you wish, and you can apply wax to the final finish without altering the satin appearance. I rarely see the need for waxing a lacquer finish on the kind of turnings I do, but other kinds of things - guitars, etc. - often get waxed. A finish should be appropriate to the style of the turning, and not everything should be glossy. Natural, rustic, or organic styled turnings seem to me to be more appropriately finished somewhere in the range of a dull to a satin sheen, and satin lacquer is a great option to have in your repertoire of finishing techniques. I like it a lot. -mike paulson, fort collins, co I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because the flatting agents can block the look of the grain. It's recommended to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance. I use gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods compare. Can anyone comment? |
#7
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
I work almost exclusively now with Juniper for both small carvings and an assortment of wood turning projects. After getting a lot of conflicting information on finishing I did some experiments on both green and seasoned Juniper and here is what I find works best for me. I tried several oils and while boiled linseed oil brings the colour out the best, mineral oil is a close 2nd place. So I simply brush on a coat of oil and then wipe it down and leave for 24 hours. Then do a 2nd coat the same way and leave for 24 hours. Then I apply 3 coats of water base gloss varathane and inspect for any roughness that may need re sanding. Then wipe clean after sanding touch ups and apply 3 more coats and inspect again. Then apply 2 more finish coats and I have a product with very rich natural colour, good grain definition, and a nice smooth finish. The varathane seals the oil and there is no after odour from even the linseed oil. If any of the turning projects have bark or voids on them after shaping, I stay with mineral oil. Sounds like a lot of work, but each coat takes less than 2 minutes to apply with a brush.
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#8
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How should I finish a red cedar bowl
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