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Default About dyeing...

So I decided to try my hand at dyeing. Bought some 8 oz bottles of red and
black Artisan (aniline) Dyes (alcohol based).

FIRST thing I learned, they work much better (easier?) diluted. Second
thing I've learned is that the finish has to be as near to flawless as you
can get it. Any tears will soak up the dye and show like a sore thumb.

The application process is taking some getting used to. First attempt at
black was a minor disaster. Second attempt, using a mixture of red and
black (2 to 1) and thinned by 3x worked out much better.

So, any thoughts/experiences/tips on dyeing? My next adventure is to add
red, thinned out about 8 to 1, to a piece of black walnut I'm about to turn.

Bob Crawford


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Default About dyeing...


"Bob Crawford" wrote: (clip) Any tears will soak up the dye and show like
a sore thumb. (clip) So, any thoughts/experiences/tips on dyeing? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
More of a *thought* than an *experience.* If you dilute the dye a lot, and
apply it prior to the final cut, you probably won't have as much trouble
with the dye collecting in the tiny blemishes.


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Default About dyeing...

If you think of the wood's grain as straws and note
that a lot more dye will go into the ends of the straws
(the end grain) than will go between the sides of the
straws (the side grain), life will get a little easier.

Given that, if you dilute the dye you can always add
another coat to make it darker, whereas starting out
concentrated makes it difficult or impossible to make
things lighter.

So, if you can seal the ends of the straws by filling
them with something relatively colorless - like say
a blonde, super blonde or platina dewaxed shellac,
you can reduce the amount of dye the end grain can
soak up.

This assumes that you seal with shellac and then
dilute your dye with water (If you were to dilute
it with alcohol, which is what the shellac is cut
with, you'd reduce or defeat the shellac's sealing
function).

The other thing to consider is applying the dye
with an airbrush rather than a piece of clothe,
paper towel or brush - the latter acting as a
source of too much dye -- which the end grain
will suck up.

Water will raise the grain so a light sanding
with a fine grit before shooting the dye
will help.
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Default About dyeing...

Bob Crawford wrote:
So I decided to try my hand at dyeing. Bought some 8 oz bottles of red and
black Artisan (aniline) Dyes (alcohol based).

FIRST thing I learned, they work much better (easier?) diluted. Second
thing I've learned is that the finish has to be as near to flawless as you
can get it. Any tears will soak up the dye and show like a sore thumb.

The application process is taking some getting used to. First attempt at
black was a minor disaster. Second attempt, using a mixture of red and
black (2 to 1) and thinned by 3x worked out much better.

So, any thoughts/experiences/tips on dyeing? My next adventure is to add
red, thinned out about 8 to 1, to a piece of black walnut I'm about to turn.

Bob Crawford



Jeff Jewitt, the manufacturer of TransTint dyes and and renown finisher,
has some information on his web site that may be helpful.

See:

http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...tds_122005.pdf

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

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Default About dyeing...

I did that Jack, thanks a lot! These two pictures are of Black Walnut
pieces cut from the same log, one dyed with a 4-1 ratio (alcohol to dye) of
Black Aniline and the other with a 4-1 ratio of red Aniline dye. The
"personality change is much more dramatic in person than in the pictures.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/DSCN0600.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/DSCN0610.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/DSCN0602.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/DSCN0612.jpg

Bob Crawford



"Nova" wrote in message
...

Jeff Jewitt, the manufacturer of TransTint dyes and and renown finisher,
has some information on his web site that may be helpful.

See:

http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...tds_122005.pdf

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA



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