Myrtle wood
Has anyone had any experience turning this wood?I'm turning a bowl and I'm
getting a lot of tearing.My tools are sharp.Any suggestions. |
Myrtle wood
it turned easily for me - it's california bay laurel by the way, they call
it Myrtle in Oregon to make it sound special if you are getting a lot of tearout either your tools aren't really sharp, or your presentation of the tool to the wood is flawed, or there is something wrong with the piece of wood (rotten, etc) "Kevin Cleary" wrote in message news:ZJ3Tj.347$JF1.184@trndny06... Has anyone had any experience turning this wood?I'm turning a bowl and I'm getting a lot of tearing.My tools are sharp.Any suggestions. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Myrtle wood
Being an Oregon turner, I have turned a lot of myrtle. Mostly I turn
it wet/green, to final thickness, then let it dry and warp before sanding and finishing. Usually it cuts very nicely, but it can have irregular grain. It can also have a fair amount of silica (sand) in it which will dull tools fairly quickly. As to the tearout, like others have said, sharp tools. Other than that, I have noticed that dry wood will get more tearout than wet wood. If you are making fine cuts with little whispy shavings, and your tools are freshly sharpened, You can wet the wood down with water, or an oil finish, then make another light cut. You may have to do this a couple of times to get it all out. A gouge works better for this than a scraper held flat, and a shear scraper (held at an angle) works better than a flat scraper, but not quite as well as a gouge. Then some times you do have to start with the 80 grit gouge. robo hippy On May 3, 9:41*pm, "William Noble" wrote: it turned easily for me - it's california bay laurel by the way, they call it Myrtle in Oregon to make it sound special if you are getting a lot of tearout either your tools aren't really sharp, or your presentation of the tool to the wood is flawed, or there is something wrong with the piece of wood (rotten, etc) "Kevin Cleary" wrote in message news:ZJ3Tj.347$JF1.184@trndny06... Has anyone had any experience turning this wood?I'm turning a bowl and I'm getting a lot of tearing.My tools are sharp.Any suggestions. ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com** |
Myrtle wood
Thanks for your suggestions.I wet the wood but still good not get it smooth.
It ended up getting some surface cracks. Can't win em all. "robo hippy" wrote in message ... Being an Oregon turner, I have turned a lot of myrtle. Mostly I turn it wet/green, to final thickness, then let it dry and warp before sanding and finishing. Usually it cuts very nicely, but it can have irregular grain. It can also have a fair amount of silica (sand) in it which will dull tools fairly quickly. As to the tearout, like others have said, sharp tools. Other than that, I have noticed that dry wood will get more tearout than wet wood. If you are making fine cuts with little whispy shavings, and your tools are freshly sharpened, You can wet the wood down with water, or an oil finish, then make another light cut. You may have to do this a couple of times to get it all out. A gouge works better for this than a scraper held flat, and a shear scraper (held at an angle) works better than a flat scraper, but not quite as well as a gouge. Then some times you do have to start with the 80 grit gouge. robo hippy On May 3, 9:41 pm, "William Noble" wrote: it turned easily for me - it's california bay laurel by the way, they call it Myrtle in Oregon to make it sound special if you are getting a lot of tearout either your tools aren't really sharp, or your presentation of the tool to the wood is flawed, or there is something wrong with the piece of wood (rotten, etc) "Kevin Cleary" wrote in message news:ZJ3Tj.347$JF1.184@trndny06... Has anyone had any experience turning this wood?I'm turning a bowl and I'm getting a lot of tearing.My tools are sharp.Any suggestions. ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com** |
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