A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

I looked about a bit and could not find an answer to my question. It
may be a bit on the 'slow' side but hey, we all need learnin'. For
the longest time I used shellac as a final finish on my bowls mainly
to satisfy the wife's preference for shiny things. I figure if I keep
the SO happy with what I do with my hobby, all is well.
Anyways, shellac was my [read:her] choice of finishes. Then several
months ago I spent some bucks on the Beall Buffing System. [I like
that 'System' in there. ] So for the next dozen or so bowls they
received an application of the System - sand to 320 or so, and then a
twirl on the Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba. SO pronounced them
lovely.
Now I ponder. Has anyone tried applying the shellac, say 4 or 5 coats
with fine sanding, then applied the System? Is it overkill? Will the
result be really SHINY? I will sheepishly admit that if I can get
some REALLY SHINY bowls produced for the wife, ones that may require
welder's mask to view, she may well adjust her preferences toward the
more tactile end of the scale as opposed to glossy.

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

Wax over shellac is common and often will produce a better final gloss
finish. I often use a micro crystalline over shellac or mix my shellac in
beeswax before application.

Check if your compounds are foodsafe. Carnauba wax is, I don't know about
the others, a quick web check implies tripoli and diamond are foodsafe.
Verify before using on kitchen objects.

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

"Kevin" wrote in message
...
I looked about a bit and could not find an answer to my question. It
may be a bit on the 'slow' side but hey, we all need learnin'. For
the longest time I used shellac as a final finish on my bowls mainly
to satisfy the wife's preference for shiny things. I figure if I keep
the SO happy with what I do with my hobby, all is well.
Anyways, shellac was my [read:her] choice of finishes. Then several
months ago I spent some bucks on the Beall Buffing System. [I like
that 'System' in there. ] So for the next dozen or so bowls they
received an application of the System - sand to 320 or so, and then a
twirl on the Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba. SO pronounced them
lovely.
Now I ponder. Has anyone tried applying the shellac, say 4 or 5 coats
with fine sanding, then applied the System? Is it overkill? Will the
result be really SHINY? I will sheepishly admit that if I can get
some REALLY SHINY bowls produced for the wife, ones that may require
welder's mask to view, she may well adjust her preferences toward the
more tactile end of the scale as opposed to glossy.

You can buff shellac, but it does start to get sticky at around 175 F, so
don't press!

Not that a buff will outdo a French Polish and spiriting, but if you apply
and level, you could just buff for smooth. I polish in my waste time, so I
would rather do that.

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

On Mar 26, 9:28 am, Kevin wrote:
I looked about a bit and could not find an answer to my question. It
may be a bit on the 'slow' side but hey, we all need learnin'. For
the longest time I used shellac as a final finish on my bowls mainly
to satisfy the wife's preference for shiny things. I figure if I keep
the SO happy with what I do with my hobby, all is well.
Anyways, shellac was my [read:her] choice of finishes. Then several
months ago I spent some bucks on the Beall Buffing System. [I like
that 'System' in there. ] So for the next dozen or so bowls they
received an application of the System - sand to 320 or so, and then a
twirl on the Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba. SO pronounced them
lovely.
Now I ponder. Has anyone tried applying the shellac, say 4 or 5 coats
with fine sanding, then applied the System? Is it overkill? Will the
result be really SHINY? I will sheepishly admit that if I can get
some REALLY SHINY bowls produced for the wife, ones that may require
welder's mask to view, she may well adjust her preferences toward the
more tactile end of the scale as opposed to glossy.

I don't normally use shellac as a finish only as a sanding sealer when
I plan to apply spray on gloss lacquer. My choice for bowls,
especially bowls for use in the kitchen, is Walnut oil. You can buy it
in the grocery store in the cooking oil department. Most stores carry
various oils and one of them is Walnut oil. It takes a few days for it
to dry after application. When dry, you can buff it to a nice shine
with the Beall System and you'll know that you have a food safe
finish. The Walnut oil soaks into the wood and brings out the grain
and color of the wood very well.

I don't like to simply buff the bowl without some sort of finish,
although the carnuba wax for the last coat of the buff is somewhat of
a finish.

If you and your wife likes shiney, then you purchased the proper tool
to get that shiney finish. The Beall system is a great buffing system.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:28:28 -0700 (PDT), Kevin wrote:

I looked about a bit and could not find an answer to my question. It
may be a bit on the 'slow' side but hey, we all need learnin'. For
the longest time I used shellac as a final finish on my bowls mainly
to satisfy the wife's preference for shiny things. I figure if I keep
the SO happy with what I do with my hobby, all is well.
Anyways, shellac was my [read:her] choice of finishes. Then several
months ago I spent some bucks on the Beall Buffing System. [I like
that 'System' in there. ] So for the next dozen or so bowls they
received an application of the System - sand to 320 or so, and then a
twirl on the Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba. SO pronounced them
lovely.
Now I ponder. Has anyone tried applying the shellac, say 4 or 5 coats
with fine sanding, then applied the System? Is it overkill? Will the
result be really SHINY? I will sheepishly admit that if I can get
some REALLY SHINY bowls produced for the wife, ones that may require
welder's mask to view, she may well adjust her preferences toward the
more tactile end of the scale as opposed to glossy.

The only buffing I do over a topcoat, and I've never tried shellac, is the wax
wheel...
Most finishes can be shined and protected a bit with the wax..

Experiment a bit with Danish oil.. preferably natural, and buffing with the
whole system..
It's not as "instant gratification" as your shellac because it takes a few days
to cure, but for non-oily woods it really makes a nice look and feel..

One of my mentors uses thinned sanding sealer and buffs that, because the drying
time is shorter than oil, but I like the look and penetration of the Danish
oil... YMMW


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

for shellac I do a very thin coats at the end. The last couple coats
can be wet sanded with oil and a wet dry sandpaper. The last bit I use
a cotton cloth an pumice with oil and hand polish.

if I buff only the white and then the wax and very light touch. Give it
a few days to dry. the problem with shellac is that it can hide
bubbles of solvent under the surface that can blister out. I once had a
jewelry box blister in my car on a warm day. I had just finished it
polished and buffed to a perfect finish then I left it in the car for 10
minutes. The heat of a buffing wheel could do the same



mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:28:28 -0700 (PDT), Kevin wrote:

I looked about a bit and could not find an answer to my question. It
may be a bit on the 'slow' side but hey, we all need learnin'. For
the longest time I used shellac as a final finish on my bowls mainly
to satisfy the wife's preference for shiny things. I figure if I keep
the SO happy with what I do with my hobby, all is well.
Anyways, shellac was my [read:her] choice of finishes. Then several
months ago I spent some bucks on the Beall Buffing System. [I like
that 'System' in there. ] So for the next dozen or so bowls they
received an application of the System - sand to 320 or so, and then a
twirl on the Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba. SO pronounced them
lovely.
Now I ponder. Has anyone tried applying the shellac, say 4 or 5 coats
with fine sanding, then applied the System? Is it overkill? Will the
result be really SHINY? I will sheepishly admit that if I can get
some REALLY SHINY bowls produced for the wife, ones that may require
welder's mask to view, she may well adjust her preferences toward the
more tactile end of the scale as opposed to glossy.

The only buffing I do over a topcoat, and I've never tried shellac, is the wax
wheel...
Most finishes can be shined and protected a bit with the wax..

Experiment a bit with Danish oil.. preferably natural, and buffing with the
whole system..
It's not as "instant gratification" as your shellac because it takes a few days
to cure, but for non-oily woods it really makes a nice look and feel..

One of my mentors uses thinned sanding sealer and buffs that, because the drying
time is shorter than oil, but I like the look and penetration of the Danish
oil... YMMW


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

On Mar 26, 1:28*pm, Kevin wrote:
I looked about a bit and could not find an answer to my question. *It
may be a bit on the 'slow' side but hey, we all need learnin'. *For
the longest time I used shellac as a final finish on my bowls mainly
to satisfy the wife's preference for shiny things. *I figure if I keep
Hi Kevin
Kevin have you ever tried polymerized tung oil for a shiny finish ??
I'd recommend you try that one at least ones, it goes on easy and is
renewed easy if needed.
Does not take long for curing, is tough and shiny and can be buffed to
more so.
Go to the Lee Valley site and look under finishes, you can there then
read the product and use info.
I'm not for shiny but have used the polymerized tung oil for just
that, and it's a real winner IMO.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

the SO happy with what I do with my hobby, all is well.
Anyways, shellac was my [read:her] choice of finishes. *Then several
months ago I spent some bucks on the Beall Buffing System. *[I like
that 'System' in there. ] *So for the next dozen or so bowls they
received an application of the System - sand to 320 or so, and then a
twirl on the Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba. *SO pronounced them
lovely.
Now I ponder. *Has anyone tried applying the shellac, say 4 or 5 coats
with fine sanding, then applied the System? *Is it overkill? *Will the
result be really SHINY? *I will sheepishly admit that if I can get
some REALLY SHINY bowls produced for the wife, ones that may require
welder's mask to view, she may well adjust her preferences toward the
more tactile end of the scale as opposed to glossy.

A question regarding shellac and buffing
 

I would like to thank all for their responses. I note that I prefer a
finish much less shiny than the wife; indeed, I appreciate more of a
smooth matte finish with depth. I have noticed that in reading this
group for what, 7 or 8 years now, that it seems the longer one has
been making bowls, the less their preference for a shiny finish.
Perhaps this is a result of coming around to appreciating the beauty
in the wood itself. I will at times be at my lathe with a bowl
attached slowly hand turning it watching the interplay between light
and grain. How what appears to be a dark bit will suddenly blossom
into a bright bit of beauty as the light hits the grain at a slightly
different angle. Maybe this is what happens to all of us. We see the
beauty and then wonder, 'Hey, this is good enough as is. Anymore
futzin' with it may destry what has been revealed.'
Anyways, enough with the musings and thanks again.