One of the thing I have found as a newcomer to wood turning is there are
many ways of finishing an object. The problem is knowing what finish to
use on a species, or even better what should not

Does anyone know of a Website out there that lists different species and
the basic finishes that work and don't work or to what extent they work?

If one doesn't already exist I can see something like this would be
useful to those like myself, as it would save wasting materials, money
and potentially wood on something proven not to work, or that is
ineffective.

At present I am just playing the experimental game
--
John

On Feb 21, 2:15 pm, John wrote:
One of the thing I have found as a newcomer to wood turning is there are
many ways of finishing an object. The problem is knowing what finish to
use on a species, or even better what should not

Does anyone know of a Website out there that lists different species and
the basic finishes that work and don't work or to what extent they work?

If one doesn't already exist I can see something like this would be
useful to those like myself, as it would save wasting materials, money
and potentially wood on something proven not to work, or that is
ineffective.

At present I am just playing the experimental game

Most wood finishes work on most species. There exceptions, such as oil
finishes not curing on exotic woods with resin in them, but for the
most part anything goes.

When choosing a finish you may want to start by determining what
characteristics you want the finish to have. Do you want to build a
hard protective film, or do you want to still be able to feel the
wood. Is the item purely decorative, or do I need to be able to wash
this bowl in the sink? Does it need to be water proof? Do I want it to
shine or to be flat? Is it easy to apply or will I need special
equipment or take special safety precautions?

So carry on experimenting with different finishes. Why not make some
simple spindles and treat each with a different finish and keep for
reference?

Derek Andrews

http://chipshop.blogspot.com - a blog for my customers
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/TheToolrest/ - a blog for
woodturners

let me second what Derek said - in fact you can make it simpler:

want cold and shiny - use lacquer
want soft and warm - use oil
want "natural" use karnuba wax only

you can go crazy with finishes - form and grain are generally more
important, but folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss, which is
what Lacquer excells at.


snip

Most wood finishes work on most species. There exceptions, such as oil
finishes not curing on exotic woods with resin in them, but for the
most part anything goes.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In message , William Noble
writes
let me second what Derek said - in fact you can make it simpler:

want cold and shiny - use lacquer
want soft and warm - use oil
want "natural" use karnuba wax only

you can go crazy with finishes - form and grain are generally more
important, but folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss, which is
what Lacquer excells at.

Its interesting you say
folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss
As it produces a cold finish. I wonder if it is to reflect their
personality?

To me warm is inviting, so I think it will be definitely on my list of
preferred finishes. Personally the only person I have to please is me.
If the wife likes it that's a bonus She has a lovely saying, if you
don't like our house and how it is, don't let the door hit you in the
ass as you leave
--
John

"John" wrote in message
news
In message , William Noble
writes
let me second what Derek said - in fact you can make it simpler:

want cold and shiny - use lacquer
want soft and warm - use oil
want "natural" use karnuba wax only

you can go crazy with finishes - form and grain are generally more
important, but folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss, which is
what Lacquer excells at.

Its interesting you say
folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss
As it produces a cold finish. I wonder if it is to reflect their
personality?

To me warm is inviting, so I think it will be definitely on my list of
preferred finishes. Personally the only person I have to please is me. If
the wife likes it that's a bonus She has a lovely saying, if you don't
like our house and how it is, don't let the door hit you in the ass as you
leave
--

Contempt for the customer seems big with some people. I use the traditional
definition of warm finishes returning yellows and reds, cold being whites
and blues.

Here are some things I've picked up. Oils and waxes, which are closely
related to oils, are soft finishes. Some say non-finishes. With oils we
have taken to adding resins to harden them against the knocks and dirt.
With wax we can't. Carnauba is as hard as carnauba and bees as hard as bees
after any solvent used to soften evaporates. Not durable, but easy to apply
and reapplications are just as easy. Lots of oils and waxes also have some
color to them. Generally this is at the warm end of the spectrum.

You have probably noticed that oils look really nice after you first flood
the surface. Lots of people call it "popping the grain," though it's really
just a lesson in diffraction. The smooth continuous film optically adjusts
the scatter we got from out torn fibers and variously facing pores. As the
oil soaks in, the surface begins to scatter light again, and look matte.
Other ways of scattering light include the use of "satin" finishes, where
the scatter is from inside the finish itself, and with large polymeric units
in some water base finishes and some waxes, which do the same. Some people
put on a clear finish and then modify the surface by rubbing with steel wool
or similar to get the diffraction from the surface by cutting back on total
reflection. By randomizing the scratches, they redirect the light in many
directions.

A clear finish with resin to stiffen it rejects dirt and oil from the skin
bacteria and their spores, and allows us a low-scatter look at the wood
itself. It is not easily renewed in the case of varnishes, though lacquer
and shellac will clean up and work up well. An oil base finish is my usual
choice. You can thin it and keep it from building on the surface if you
don't want a film, or you can work up a couple more layers and get that
"deep" finish many customers prize. With shellac you can build easily to
brilliance, and you can buff to renew or wax to cut back the shine as you
please. Works well on display pieces.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 08:52:39 GMT, John wrote:

In message , William Noble
writes
let me second what Derek said - in fact you can make it simpler:

want cold and shiny - use lacquer
want soft and warm - use oil
want "natural" use karnuba wax only

you can go crazy with finishes - form and grain are generally more
important, but folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss, which is
what Lacquer excells at.

Its interesting you say
folks seem really impressed with ultra high gloss
As it produces a cold finish. I wonder if it is to reflect their
personality?

To me warm is inviting, so I think it will be definitely on my list of
preferred finishes. Personally the only person I have to please is me.
If the wife likes it that's a bonus She has a lovely saying, if you
don't like our house and how it is, don't let the door hit you in the
ass as you leave

John.. If possible, find someone local that buffs their turnings and see if you
like the look and feel..

I use the Beall buffing system on all my stuff, either just buffing the natural
wood or rubbing on natural Danish oil on softer woods and then buffing..
The look is warm and fuzzy, the feel is like glass and it's a renewable finish
that's "food safe"..

After buffing a few hundred pieces I just bought a 2nd Beall system.. $80 US
every 3 or 4 years is a great investment, IMHO..

Note: DO NOT use oil on padauk, especially if you plan on buffing it... DAMHIKT


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In message , George
writes

Contempt for the customer seems big with some people. I use the
traditional definition of warm finishes returning yellows and reds,
cold being whites and blues.

This sentence also picks up on another aspect that is often forgotten,
as I did till I read it. Tungsten lighting produces a yellow light about
2500K where as general normal fluorescent produces a whiter light about
4200K. The yellow light is more relaxing on the eyes, where as the white
is better for detail, hence it its often used in electronics inspection.

I wonder what sort of lighting people tend to use when they display
their works of art?
--
John

In message , mac davis
writes

John.. If possible, find someone local that buffs their turnings and see if you
like the look and feel..

I use the Beall buffing system on all my stuff, either just buffing the natural
wood or rubbing on natural Danish oil on softer woods and then buffing..
The look is warm and fuzzy, the feel is like glass and it's a renewable finish
that's "food safe"..

After buffing a few hundred pieces I just bought a 2nd Beall system.. $80 US
every 3 or 4 years is a great investment, IMHO..

Note: DO NOT use oil on padauk, especially if you plan on buffing it... DAMHIKT


mac

Hey mac

I must admit I haven't yet tried buffing of my finished items other than
what can be done on the lathe. As soon as the workshop re-layout is
completed I will be able to access both 6 inch bench grinders (converted
to buffers)
Then I will be able to play

--
John

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:48:32 GMT, John wrote:

In message , George
writes

Contempt for the customer seems big with some people. I use the
traditional definition of warm finishes returning yellows and reds,
cold being whites and blues.

This sentence also picks up on another aspect that is often forgotten,
as I did till I read it. Tungsten lighting produces a yellow light about
2500K where as general normal fluorescent produces a whiter light about
4200K. The yellow light is more relaxing on the eyes, where as the white
is better for detail, hence it its often used in electronics inspection.

I wonder what sort of lighting people tend to use when they display
their works of art?

Sunlight, in my case... all outdoor shows..

I also try to use as much natural light as possible in the shop..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 17:18:23 GMT, John wrote:

Hey mac

I must admit I haven't yet tried buffing of my finished items other than
what can be done on the lathe. As soon as the workshop re-layout is
completed I will be able to access both 6 inch bench grinders (converted
to buffers)
Then I will be able to play

I think you'll like it... the 1st time I took a sanded bowl and touched it to
the buffer, I was blown away at how nice it looked...
I sent my mentor an email with picture and he said.. "you ain't seen nothing
yet, do the other 2 wheels'..lol

I had a washing machine motor for buffing but use the lathe mostly.. choice of
speed and quicker wheel changes..
Especially with the bowl buffs, I find that the recommended 1750rpm for the
wheels does little for the buffs.. more like 2,500 or so..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I only buff ultra high gloss items - generally dark wood - I build up
lacquer (I have a spray rig) and wet sand, then polish on the lathe with
automotive polish, then buffing compound, then nothing, then a layer of
carnuba wax - you can get a finsh like glass, which of course shows any
imperfections, but on the right piece, looking like glass is the kind of
finish I want. it's not "natural", but it is eye catching
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 17:18:23 GMT, John
wrote:

Hey mac

I must admit I haven't yet tried buffing of my finished items other than
what can be done on the lathe. As soon as the workshop re-layout is
completed I will be able to access both 6 inch bench grinders (converted
to buffers)
Then I will be able to play

I think you'll like it... the 1st time I took a sanded bowl and touched it
to
the buffer, I was blown away at how nice it looked...
I sent my mentor an email with picture and he said.. "you ain't seen
nothing
yet, do the other 2 wheels'..lol

I had a washing machine motor for buffing but use the lathe mostly..
choice of
speed and quicker wheel changes..
Especially with the bowl buffs, I find that the recommended 1750rpm for
the
wheels does little for the buffs.. more like 2,500 or so..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:48:32 GMT, John
wrote:

In message , George
writes

Contempt for the customer seems big with some people. I use the
traditional definition of warm finishes returning yellows and reds,
cold being whites and blues.

This sentence also picks up on another aspect that is often forgotten,
as I did till I read it. Tungsten lighting produces a yellow light about
2500K where as general normal fluorescent produces a whiter light about
4200K. The yellow light is more relaxing on the eyes, where as the white
is better for detail, hence it its often used in electronics inspection.

I wonder what sort of lighting people tend to use when they display
their works of art?

Sunlight, in my case... all outdoor shows..


I put the flashy ones in the sunlight and let the common pieces stay under
the canopy. Then encourage people to pick them up and move them in the
light to showcase chatoyance.

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:47:48 GMT, "George" wrote:

I put the flashy ones in the sunlight and let the common pieces stay under
the canopy. Then encourage people to pick them up and move them in the
light to showcase chatoyance.

Funny that you'd mention that, George... I've been doing that with the ironwood
pieces..
They'll pick one up in the shade and I'll tell them that to "see" ironwood, they
have to hold it in sunlight.. I love the "ohhs and ahhs" when they see all those
gold lines appear..
(and sometimes it makes a bit of gold appear in my pocket)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing