Question regarding buffing
 

A week or two ago I wrote in asking about buffing with the Beale
system. I purchased it as a Christmas gift to myself. Now I am
wondering if anyone has buffed out a bowl that has already has a
shellac finish on it? If so, did you start with the white diamond and
then on to the carnuba? Also, the instructions state just apply the
carnuba bar to the appropriate wheel for just a second. I did and was
unable to see any carnuba deposits on the wheel.
Should I try for more on the wheel?
As an aside, the first bowl I buffed out (sans anything but a Watco
finish after sanding to 400) produced a notably pleasant surface.

Thanks for assistance.

Question regarding buffing
 

Hi Kevin
I never use any paint on my bowls, shellac or other, but yes you can
buff any finish, you can/should use what you need (red or white
polish) and a good cured finish should be easily buffed out, if it's
rough you might need to re-sand with 800 or 1000 grit and then buff,
just watch out that you don't go through the finish, very easily done
especially on edges.
If your wheels are still new, you might need a bit more wax on them,
but you need very little, get your speed high enough also, if you get
to much on you can clean your wheel and remove some again with your
final polishing wheel.
Just try it, it's not rocket science.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On Nov 9, 4:07 pm, Kevin wrote:
A week or two ago I wrote in asking about buffing with the Beale
system. I purchased it as a Christmas gift to myself. Now I am
wondering if anyone has buffed out a bowl that has already has a
shellac finish on it? If so, did you start with the white diamond and
then on to the carnuba? Also, the instructions state just apply the
carnuba bar to the appropriate wheel for just a second. I did and was
unable to see any carnuba deposits on the wheel.
Should I try for more on the wheel?
As an aside, the first bowl I buffed out (sans anything but a Watco
finish after sanding to 400) produced a notably pleasant surface.

Thanks for assistance.

Question regarding buffing
 

On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 13:07:39 -0800, Kevin wrote:

A week or two ago I wrote in asking about buffing with the Beale
system. I purchased it as a Christmas gift to myself. Now I am
wondering if anyone has buffed out a bowl that has already has a
shellac finish on it? If so, did you start with the white diamond and
then on to the carnuba? Also, the instructions state just apply the
carnuba bar to the appropriate wheel for just a second. I did and was
unable to see any carnuba deposits on the wheel.
Should I try for more on the wheel?
As an aside, the first bowl I buffed out (sans anything but a Watco
finish after sanding to 400) produced a notably pleasant surface.

Thanks for assistance.

Kevin..
For an experiment on proper amount of wax, buff something non-critical and load
up the wax wheel....
You know that you're gone "too far" when with moderate pressure, you're seeing
wax lines... as on a pen when you rotate it around, you'll see a line of wax
along the pen body..
That's a bad thing because it will gum up and not give you a good shine or
feel..

Experiment with different amounts of was and different pressure/movement
combinations and you'll love the effect..

IMHO, buffing is a new tool and should be treated as one... you try a tool, play
with it on scrap, etc., until you're familiar and comfortable with it...YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Question regarding buffing
 

Just curios here Leo,
You mentioned getting your speed high enough. I have the Jet 1235
with a low end of around 500 or so. Should the speed be more than
this?

On Nov 9, 8:32 pm, "
wrote:
Hi Kevin
I never use any paint on my bowls, shellac or other, but yes you can
buff any finish, you can/should use what you need (red or white
polish) and a good cured finish should be easily buffed out, if it's
rough you might need to re-sand with 800 or 1000 grit and then buff,
just watch out that you don't go through the finish, very easily done
especially on edges.
If your wheels are still new, you might need a bit more wax on them,
but you need very little, get your speed high enough also, if you get
to much on you can clean your wheel and remove some again with your
final polishing wheel.
Just try it, it's not rocket science.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Question regarding buffing
 

On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 07:50:29 -0800, Kevin wrote:

Just curios here Leo,
You mentioned getting your speed high enough. I have the Jet 1235
with a low end of around 500 or so. Should the speed be more than
this?

I'm not Leo, but the Beall folks recommend a min. of 1 hp and 1,700 RPM, I
think...
When I was buffing on my Jet Mini, I found 1,800 the best choice.. on the Jet
1442 it's 1,900... not sure what the speed choices are on the 1235 but probably
in that range..
You need one of 2 things for the friction: speed or pressure.. I prefer speed..
I do my buffing on an old washing machine motor now.. 1/2 hp and 1,750 rpm..
I find that a bit slow for small stuff like pens, but fine for bowls and such..


On Nov 9, 8:32 pm, "
wrote:
Hi Kevin
I never use any paint on my bowls, shellac or other, but yes you can
buff any finish, you can/should use what you need (red or white
polish) and a good cured finish should be easily buffed out, if it's
rough you might need to re-sand with 800 or 1000 grit and then buff,
just watch out that you don't go through the finish, very easily done
especially on edges.
If your wheels are still new, you might need a bit more wax on them,
but you need very little, get your speed high enough also, if you get
to much on you can clean your wheel and remove some again with your
final polishing wheel.
Just try it, it's not rocket science.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Question regarding buffing
 

If you are using old buffs that have shrunk (worn, really), or the
goblet buffs that start smaller, you want more RPMs - you are basically
shooting for a more-or-less fixed surface feet per minute of the buff on
the wood, which varies with diameter and RPM.

It's a good job for the old Shopsmith, if you have an old Shopsmith
hanging around.

Beall suggests 1/3 hp or greater 1725 for the 8" buffs, and 3000 rpm for
the 4" buffs.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Question regarding buffing
 

On Nov 12, 10:50 am, Kevin wrote:
Just curios here Leo,
You mentioned getting your speed high enough. I have the Jet 1235
with a low end of around 500 or so. Should the speed be more than
this?

On Nov 9, 8:32 pm, "
wrote:

Hi Kevin
Hi Kevin
Well you got the answers already, I buff either with the workpiece in
the lathe and my 6" wheels in a high speed drill (2900 rpm) or with my
10" wheels on a 1725 rpm electric motor, if I use my worn 6" wheels on
the 1725 rpm motor it just doesn't work well, yes you need more speed
than 500 that's for sure, but you can go too fast also, very high
speed makes the wheel hard for the centrifugal force, and then you can
get the finish to hot and buff/burn through a finish pretty fast
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I never use any paint on my bowls, shellac or other, but yes you can
buff any finish, you can/should use what you need (red or white
polish) and a good cured finish should be easily buffed out, if it's
rough you might need to re-sand with 800 or 1000 grit and then buff,
just watch out that you don't go through the finish, very easily done
especially on edges.
If your wheels are still new, you might need a bit more wax on them,
but you need very little, get your speed high enough also, if you get
to much on you can clean your wheel and remove some again with your
final polishing wheel.
Just try it, it's not rocket science.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Question regarding buffing
 

Thanks a bunch for all the responses. I was unsure about the
appropriate speed. I have found that a light touch of the bowl to the
buff/wheel seems to be better than pushing the bowl in to the wheel to
the extent the wheel is deformed.

On Nov 14, 1:09 am, "
wrote:
On Nov 12, 10:50 am, Kevin wrote: Just curios here Leo,
You mentioned getting your speed high enough. I have the Jet 1235
with a low end of around 500 or so. Should the speed be more than
this?

On Nov 9, 8:32 pm, "
wrote:

Hi Kevin

Hi Kevin
Well you got the answers already, I buff either with the workpiece in
the lathe and my 6" wheels in a high speed drill (2900 rpm) or with my
10" wheels on a 1725 rpm electric motor, if I use my worn 6" wheels on
the 1725 rpm motor it just doesn't work well, yes you need more speed
than 500 that's for sure, but you can go too fast also, very high
speed makes the wheel hard for the centrifugal force, and then you can
get the finish to hot and buff/burn through a finish pretty fast
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I never use any paint on my bowls, shellac or other, but yes you can
buff any finish, you can/should use what you need (red or white
polish) and a good cured finish should be easily buffed out, if it's
rough you might need to re-sand with 800 or 1000 grit and then buff,
just watch out that you don't go through the finish, very easily done
especially on edges.
If your wheels are still new, you might need a bit more wax on them,
but you need very little, get your speed high enough also, if you get
to much on you can clean your wheel and remove some again with your
final polishing wheel.
Just try it, it's not rocket science.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Question regarding buffing
 

On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 16:00:55 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:


If you are using old buffs that have shrunk (worn, really), or the
goblet buffs that start smaller, you want more RPMs - you are basically
shooting for a more-or-less fixed surface feet per minute of the buff on
the wood, which varies with diameter and RPM.

It's a good job for the old Shopsmith, if you have an old Shopsmith
hanging around.

Beall suggests 1/3 hp or greater 1725 for the 8" buffs, and 3000 rpm for
the 4" buffs.

I have a Shopsmith but it's too friggin' loud at buffing speed to use more than
once..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Question regarding buffing
 

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I have a Shopsmith but it's too friggin' loud at buffing speed to use more
than once..

Earmuffs. Actually, I'm re-engineering a second 1953-4 Mark-V (not
messing with grandpa's yet, but it's one of the same vintage) to use a
VS motor, rather than the Reeves drive. Had to kludge that on grandpa's
when I lost a bearing on the Reeves control pulley-half in the middle of
some work - while awaiting parts, I slapped a VS motor on the bed
driving the jointer shaft, and that drove the spindle. It was so
wonderfully quiet (no Reeves squeal) that I'm moving to making it a
permanent modification (with the motor more in the proper location) on
the second one (which was cheap, and already had been messed with when I
got it). If I get it right I have no major qualms about redoing
grandpa's, he was also an engineer, and would be fine with making it
better, so long as it's not frigging it up...

It also solves the "no speed below 700 RPM" problem without that hokey
speed reducer.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Question regarding buffing
 

On Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:55:12 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I have a Shopsmith but it's too friggin' loud at buffing speed to use more
than once..

Earmuffs. Actually, I'm re-engineering a second 1953-4 Mark-V (not
messing with grandpa's yet, but it's one of the same vintage) to use a
VS motor, rather than the Reeves drive. Had to kludge that on grandpa's
when I lost a bearing on the Reeves control pulley-half in the middle of
some work - while awaiting parts, I slapped a VS motor on the bed
driving the jointer shaft, and that drove the spindle. It was so
wonderfully quiet (no Reeves squeal) that I'm moving to making it a
permanent modification (with the motor more in the proper location) on
the second one (which was cheap, and already had been messed with when I
got it). If I get it right I have no major qualms about redoing
grandpa's, he was also an engineer, and would be fine with making it
better, so long as it's not frigging it up...

It also solves the "no speed below 700 RPM" problem without that hokey
speed reducer.

My ol' Mark 5 has been being used and abused since I bought it in 81...
It's pretty much a dedicated horizontal drill press with sanding disk on the
other end, now... and gets the heavy routing jobs now and then..

Thank whoever that I'm not turning on that sucker anymore.. lol

In over 25 years of abuse I've changed he speed control arm one and a belt
once... they're pretty damn durable..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing