Hi,
Somewhere in this group I remember seeing a bit on holding the "lip"
of a bowl to finish turning the tenon etc. of the base. I"m using a
Talon 4 jaw chuck on a base tenon, but hate cutting/sanding off the
tenon after I've completed the inside/outside part of the bowl. If I
remember correctly it was a wooden addition/jaws set up to be used
with the 4 jaw chuck. It may have been a face plate/wood jaw device
also? I've tried searching this group but can"t find it. Any help
would be appreciated.
MinnJim

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,
Somewhere in this group I remember seeing a bit on holding the "lip"
of a bowl to finish turning the tenon etc. of the base. I"m using a
Talon 4 jaw chuck on a base tenon, but hate cutting/sanding off the
tenon after I've completed the inside/outside part of the bowl. If I
remember correctly it was a wooden addition/jaws set up to be used
with the 4 jaw chuck. It may have been a face plate/wood jaw device
also? I've tried searching this group but can"t find it. Any help
would be appreciated.
MinnJim

Imagine you're looking for the Longworth Chuck.

Fred's reprint from Woodturning is a good place to start.
http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/chuck.htm

MinnJim wrote:
Hi,
Somewhere in this group I remember seeing a bit on holding the "lip"
of a bowl to finish turning the tenon etc. of the base. I"m using a
Talon 4 jaw chuck on a base tenon, but hate cutting/sanding off the
tenon after I've completed the inside/outside part of the bowl. If I
remember correctly it was a wooden addition/jaws set up to be used
with the 4 jaw chuck. It may have been a face plate/wood jaw device
also? I've tried searching this group but can"t find it. Any help
would be appreciated.
MinnJim

Two choices, really. Look up Longworth Chuck or Cole Jaws. Both will,
within limits, do the job. Consider, also, a vacuum chuck. In that case,
Bill Noble is the guy you want to search for. EVen if you don't
ultimately buy from him (though many on this list have) he's got some
excellent explanations of vacuum chucking on his web site (and some VERY
inexpensive spare face plates).

Bill

--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Thomas Carlyle (1795 - 1881)
http://nmwoodworks.com

On Feb 18, 9:04 am, "MinnJim" wrote:
Hi,
Somewhere in this group I remember seeing a bit on holding the "lip"
of a bowl to finish turning the tenon etc. of the base. I"m using a
Talon 4 jaw chuck on a base tenon, but hate cutting/sanding off the
tenon after I've completed the inside/outside part of the bowl. If I
remember correctly it was a wooden addition/jaws set up to be used
with the 4 jaw chuck. It may have been a face plate/wood jaw device
also? I've tried searching this group but can"t find it. Any help
would be appreciated.
MinnJim

George has already given a link to the Longworth Chuck on my website.
I just put up a new review on the Rim Chuck being produced by Richard
Benham in Oregon. The link to this review is:

http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/Rimchuck.pdf

I've just tried this chuck and find it better than Cole Jaws or the
Longworth Chuck. It may be a bit pricey for many of you, but it is a
good solid chuck that is easy to use to turn the foot of a bowl.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,
Somewhere in this group I remember seeing a bit on holding the "lip"
of a bowl to finish turning the tenon etc. of the base. I"m using a
Talon 4 jaw chuck on a base tenon, but hate cutting/sanding off the
tenon after I've completed the inside/outside part of the bowl. If I
remember correctly it was a wooden addition/jaws set up to be used
with the 4 jaw chuck. It may have been a face plate/wood jaw device
also? I've tried searching this group but can"t find it. Any help
would be appreciated.
MinnJim


Is this for which you are looking?

http://www.oneway.on.ca/chucks/acces.../flat_jaws.htm

BillR

On Feb 18, 11:04 am, "MinnJim" wrote:




Thank You: BillR,Bill Detroit,George and Fred.
Those are the ones I was looking for.
MinnJim

It is pretty simple to make a aet of pseudo-Cole jaws out of plywood. A
friend of mine who has been turning for about 15 years, and has his work for
sale in at least two galleries, made a set. He has both A One-way and a
Stubby, so obviously, money is not an issue with him.

Hi Jim,
After seeing the prices of these chucks, I make my own out of hardwood
plywood.

About the hardest thing to find to make it is rubber stoppers with a
hole thru the center. A medical supply house will have these. Cant
remember what they are called but the sides are tapered.

You align your bowl on this jaw using the live center in your
tailstock with the center of the bottom of your bowl and use the
tailstock to apply pressure to the bowl and hold it in place. Then you
slide the rubber bumpers snugly next to the side of the bowl and lock
them down.

Once all the rubber bumpers are locked down you remove the tailstock
out of the way and finish the bottom of your bowl.

I think I may have drawings I made to make mine with, but, right now I
dont have a way to make a pdf of those drawings. The best I would be
able to give you is a .jpg of the drawing.

cad


On Feb 18, 12:04 pm, "MinnJim" wrote:
Hi,
Somewhere in this group I remember seeing a bit on holding the "lip"
of a bowl to finish turning the tenon etc. of the base. I"m using a
Talon 4 jaw chuck on a base tenon, but hate cutting/sanding off the
tenon after I've completed the inside/outside part of the bowl. If I
remember correctly it was a wooden addition/jaws set up to be used
with the 4 jaw chuck. It may have been a face plate/wood jaw device
also? I've tried searching this group but can"t find it. Any help
would be appreciated.
MinnJim

George has already given a link to the Longworth Chuck on my website.
I just put up a new review on the Rim Chuck being produced by Richard
Benham in Oregon. The link to this review is:

http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/Rimchuck.pdf

I've just tried this chuck and find it better than Cole Jaws or the
Longworth Chuck. It may be a bit pricey for many of you, but it is a
good solid chuck that is easy to use to turn the foot of a bowl.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

Here is a homemade version of what Fred has described. I haven't made
this one yet because i can't for the life of me figure out how you
center the bowl into the clamps before turning the dang thing on (I
prefer to understand how something works prior to spending time
building it). Good luck.
http://www.crwoodturner.com/longworth/
JD

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Feb 18, 11:04 am, "MinnJim" wrote:




Thank You: BillR,Bill Detroit,George and Fred.
Those are the ones I was looking for.
MinnJim


Alternatives exist. For instance:

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...oldProcess.flv

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...nt=150Sand.flv

Then to the 75mm jaws for working the front. Result is not too bad.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...h-Back-Oil.jpg

After all, to see the bottom you would have to dump the contents.

Front Features a Formica burn for accent.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...-Front-Oil.jpg

In article .com,
"JD" wrote:

George has already given a link to the Longworth Chuck on my website.
I just put up a new review on the Rim Chuck being produced by Richard
Benham in Oregon. The link to this review is:

http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/Rimchuck.pdf

I've just tried this chuck and find it better than Cole Jaws or the
Longworth Chuck. It may be a bit pricey for many of you, but it is a
good solid chuck that is easy to use to turn the foot of a bowl.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

Here is a homemade version of what Fred has described. I haven't made
this one yet because i can't for the life of me figure out how you
center the bowl into the clamps before turning the dang thing on (I
prefer to understand how something works prior to spending time
building it). Good luck.
http://www.crwoodturner.com/longworth/
JD

Actually that looks like it is the standard 4 pin Longworth, you will
note that the PDF Fred posted is 6 pins. There is a home-brew design for
a 6 pin, but I don't think it's been put on the Web

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Here is a homemade version of what Fred has described. I haven't made
this one yet because i can't for the life of me figure out how you
center the bowl into the clamps before turning the dang thing on (I
prefer to understand how something works prior to spending time
building it). Good luck.
http://www.crwoodturner.com/longworth/
JD

It's self centering, because the spirals on the back plate are a
mirror image of the spirals on the front plate. It HAS to be centered
when you tighten it. Just print two copies of this
http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/dcp01158.jpg , cut out the spiral
slots with razor, flip one of them face down and put a pin through the
center of both together. Rotate one page relative to the other and you
will see how it works.

Hey, Jim - I have the Cole jaws - and only have used them once.

When I first cut the tendon (or indent) on the bottom of a bowl, I
make a mark about the same diameter as the livecenter on the
tailstock. This can be done in many ways dependng on how the piece
is chucked.
After I've re-chucked it on the tendon and completed turning on both
the outside and inside, I usually give it a coat of shellac or sealer
while its still on the lathe.
Then I turn the bowl around and use a jam chuck on the headstock side
and bring up the livecenter to match the aforementioned ring on the
tendon as good as possible. If I did not leave a ring, I do trial-and-
error until I get it centered pretty well.Then I finish off the
bottom except for the wee bit under the livecenter - I undercut that
to about 1/4 inch with a parting tool. When I take it off the lathe I
carve off that 1/4 in diameter bit and sand.
The jam chuck can be most anything. The chuck with a piece of 1/4 in
foam over the jaws. A piece of wood turned to a diameter smaller
than the bowl edges but larger than the bottom. A vacuum chuck
without the vacuum. Don't bring up much pressure with the tailstock
and take very light cuts,
This is the fastest way for me - - and I can handle bowls up to 20in
in diameter (my lathe is a 2036). Most of my bowls are not
completely dry - so they move after turning and are somewhat
elliptical before i get to the bottoms. If I relied on Cole chucks or
equivalent edge holders, I could not work these.
This method also works just as well with natural edge bowls!

George wrote:


Alternatives exist. For instance:

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...oldProcess.flv

snip

I watched all the videos. I can't see what is holding the
bowl. A faceplate?

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Any wire cut to length will be too short.

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
.. .
George wrote:


Alternatives exist. For instance:

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...oldProcess.flv

snip

I watched all the videos. I can't see what is holding the bowl. A
faceplate?

Pin chuck.

Gerald Ross wrote:
George wrote:


Alternatives exist. For instance:

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...oldProcess.flv


snip

I watched all the videos. I can't see what is holding the bowl. A
faceplate?

Could be. Could also be that he has a chuck expanded into a center hole
drilled with a larger Forstner bit or, if somewhat adventurous (I'm
guessing here) even on a pin chuck. Come to think of it, it could even
be on a screw chuck. If he's putting this sort of a bottom recess in, my
guess would be that there is a four jaw chuck on the other side of that
blank.

Drill recess, insert chuck, screw chuck on to lathe, bring tailstock up
to secure, turn bottom and O.D., pull tailstock back and cut recess for
holding bottom while hollowing out the inside. Chuck up one more time
and clean up the bottom. It's that last chucking that gets a little funky.

Bill

--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Thomas Carlyle (1795 - 1881)
http://nmwoodworks.com


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"Bill in Detroit" wrote in message
...
Drill recess, insert chuck, screw chuck on to lathe, bring tailstock up to
secure, turn bottom and O.D., pull tailstock back and cut recess for
holding bottom while hollowing out the inside. Chuck up one more time and
clean up the bottom. It's that last chucking that gets a little funky.


Process actually goes drill existing oval hole on drillpress round for pin
chuck, mount and turn. Make bottom as simple or elaborate as desired,
reverse to a 4-jaw, turn interior.

Since I plan for my bottoms to suit the stable of jaws I have for my chucks,
I can do innies/outies, wide or narrow as I choose and get a true runner.

"cad" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Jim,
After seeing the prices of these chucks, I make my own out of hardwood
plywood.

About the hardest thing to find to make it is rubber stoppers with a
hole thru the center. A medical supply house will have these. Cant
remember what they are called but the sides are tapered.

They're called "rubber stoppers with hole". Really.


You align your bowl on this jaw using the live center in your
tailstock with the center of the bottom of your bowl and use the
tailstock to apply pressure to the bowl and hold it in place. Then you
slide the rubber bumpers snugly next to the side of the bowl and lock
them down.

Once all the rubber bumpers are locked down you remove the tailstock
out of the way and finish the bottom of your bowl.

I think I may have drawings I made to make mine with, but, right now I
dont have a way to make a pdf of those drawings. The best I would be
able to give you is a .jpg of the drawing.

Google PDF995. Free, sets up as printer, and produces PDF from CAD file.

On 19 Feb 2007 05:36:30 -0800, "JD" wrote:

Here is a homemade version of what Fred has described. I haven't made
this one yet because i can't for the life of me figure out how you
center the bowl into the clamps before turning the dang thing on (I
prefer to understand how something works prior to spending time
building it). Good luck.
http://www.crwoodturner.com/longworth/

Man, how on Earth did I miss this gem the first time through???

That is awfully slick.

I think I'm going to make a set out of stainless steel or aluminum at
work on the laser cutter (probably stainless- aluminum is a PITA to
cut on the thing, and expensive to boot)...

If anyone is interested in aquiring a set of metal plates to make one
of these, contact me off list at prometheus at charter.net, and I'll
see what I can do. I won't be making a lot of them, but I might be
able to help out a few guys if there is some interest.

when you use one of these chucks, understand that the grip on the bowl is
not very strong, so you must use very light cuts. also understand that you
must have a uniform rim, you can't use it on a natural edged piece. I made
one per instructions using a router and plywood, got rid of it when I got
vacuum and a larger lathe.


"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On 19 Feb 2007 05:36:30 -0800, "JD" wrote:

Here is a homemade version of what Fred has described. I haven't made
this one yet because i can't for the life of me figure out how you
center the bowl into the clamps before turning the dang thing on (I
prefer to understand how something works prior to spending time
building it). Good luck.
http://www.crwoodturner.com/longworth/

Man, how on Earth did I miss this gem the first time through???

That is awfully slick.

I think I'm going to make a set out of stainless steel or aluminum at
work on the laser cutter (probably stainless- aluminum is a PITA to
cut on the thing, and expensive to boot)...

If anyone is interested in aquiring a set of metal plates to make one
of these, contact me off list at prometheus at charter.net, and I'll
see what I can do. I won't be making a lot of them, but I might be
able to help out a few guys if there is some interest.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 4 Apr 2007 04:20:11 -0700, "Bill N"
wrote:

when you use one of these chucks, understand that the grip on the bowl is
not very strong, so you must use very light cuts. also understand that you
must have a uniform rim, you can't use it on a natural edged piece. I made
one per instructions using a router and plywood, got rid of it when I got
vacuum and a larger lathe.

I had already figured on both of those things. But considering how
cheaply and easily I can make one, it will be a nice addition to my
tooling, especially since I really just don't have any plans to get
myself a vacuum chuck. No reason not to have one, and if it saves me
some work on even a handful of my projects, that will be reason enough
for it to be in the shop.

Hi Prometheus

I use my mega jumbo cole jaws very often, they are very flexible to
use and have a much better holding power than the longworth style
jaws, they also have the ability to hold wood pieces that you can turn/
shape to hold more involved shapes, like rolled over rims etc.
However you do need a good woodchuck for those to bold on to, and they
are not cheap. :-)))

If you decide to make the longworth chuck, you could make the arc cuts
in those disks less steep, so you would get more gripping power as the
rubber buttons would move less in and out for the same amount of disk
rotation, drawback would be of course be that you would need a couple
of chucks to cover the sizes you would be able to hold.
The rubber buttons that are used, are readily available in the beer
and wine making places/stores, they are used to hold the airlocks in
the carboys when making wine, they do come with or without holes, the
ones I use in my carboys do have 8mm/5/16" D holes.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On Apr 4, 3:07 pm, Prometheus wrote:
On Wed, 4 Apr 2007 04:20:11 -0700, "Bill N"
wrote:

when you use one of these chucks, understand that the grip on the bowl is
not very strong, so you must use very light cuts. also understand that you
must have a uniform rim, you can't use it on a natural edged piece. I made
one per instructions using a router and plywood, got rid of it when I got
vacuum and a larger lathe.

I had already figured on both of those things. But considering how
cheaply and easily I can make one, it will be a nice addition to my
tooling, especially since I really just don't have any plans to get
myself a vacuum chuck. No reason not to have one, and if it saves me
some work on even a handful of my projects, that will be reason enough
for it to be in the shop.

On 4 Apr 2007 14:49:11 -0700, "
wrote:

Hi Prometheus

I use my mega jumbo cole jaws very often, they are very flexible to
use and have a much better holding power than the longworth style
jaws, they also have the ability to hold wood pieces that you can turn/
shape to hold more involved shapes, like rolled over rims etc.
However you do need a good woodchuck for those to bold on to, and they
are not cheap. :-)))

Nope, not cheap at all- and while I do turn a few bowls a month, I
have so many other irons in the fire that the money can go to better
use elsewhere!

If you decide to make the longworth chuck, you could make the arc cuts
in those disks less steep, so you would get more gripping power as the
rubber buttons would move less in and out for the same amount of disk
rotation, drawback would be of course be that you would need a couple
of chucks to cover the sizes you would be able to hold.

I also ran across a site that was selling a commerical version, and
they were using a spanner wrench to tighten them using a series of
holes around the rim. That's likely to be the route I'll go.

The rubber buttons that are used, are readily available in the beer
and wine making places/stores, they are used to hold the airlocks in
the carboys when making wine, they do come with or without holes, the
ones I use in my carboys do have 8mm/5/16" D holes.

Perfect! I had a nagging feeling that I knew where to find them, and
couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

Prometheus wrote:

The rubber buttons that are used, are readily available in the beer
and wine making places/stores, they are used to hold the airlocks in
the carboys when making wine, they do come with or without holes, the
ones I use in my carboys do have 8mm/5/16" D holes.

Perfect! I had a nagging feeling that I knew where to find them, and
couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

I built a Longworth a couple years ago. It gets trotted out fairly
often. I used some faucet washers I found that were about 1/2 thick. I
just used them again today to finish off the bottom of a maple bowl
that's been kicking around about 1/2 of forever waiting for me to decide
whether I wanted to smooth the bottom or make a pedestal bowl of it.
"Smooth" finally won out.

Bill


--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube


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On Apr 5, 5:44 am, Prometheus wrote:

/SNIP/

couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

Prometheus, there's nothing illegal about making your own wine or
beer, just don't start competing with the government controlled liquor/
alcohol selling.

As the price of a bottle of wine sold to the LCBO (over here in
Ontario) cost them $5.--, that plomb does cost us approx. $15.-- or
better.

I do like a glass of wine with my meal at suppertime, and could not
see me paying that kind of robbery prices for it, so I make my own,
have done so for a number of years, nothing fancy, but a lot better
than the $15.-- stuff they sell, and at 20% of that price.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 5, 5:44 am, Prometheus wrote:

/SNIP/

couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

Prometheus, there's nothing illegal about making your own wine or
beer, just don't start competing with the government controlled liquor/
alcohol selling.

There is when you're a teenager. That was his point.

On Apr 8, 12:10 am, "CW" wrote:
wrote in message.

There is when you're a teenager. That was his point.

Not where I come from, 16 over there, and 18 over here I think.
but that could be the case where you live, some places you're never
old enough.

On 7 Apr 2007 20:45:22 -0700, "
wrote:

On Apr 5, 5:44 am, Prometheus wrote:

/SNIP/

couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

Prometheus, there's nothing illegal about making your own wine or
beer, just don't start competing with the government controlled liquor/
alcohol selling.

I know that- to an extent, but I was 18 at the time. (In Wisconsin,
the legal drinking age is 21.) While it may not have been illegal to
ferment it, it was illegal to drink it!

As the price of a bottle of wine sold to the LCBO (over here in
Ontario) cost them $5.--, that plomb does cost us approx. $15.-- or
better.

I do like a glass of wine with my meal at suppertime, and could not
see me paying that kind of robbery prices for it, so I make my own,
have done so for a number of years, nothing fancy, but a lot better
than the $15.-- stuff they sell, and at 20% of that price.

Ah yes- from what I hear, Canada has expensive liquor, but cheap
marijauna- which is exactly opposite in the US. Around here, a person
can get drunk for $2 if they don't have much taste, or $6-7 for a
bottle of pretty good wine. Oddly enough, the ones in the $7 range
are usually a little better than the $15-$20 bottles, though that may
be a result of my personal tastes.

Every once in a while, I think about getting a beer-brewing kit- but I
don't know that I drink enough to justify it, and I don't really think
I need a reason to increase my alcohol consumption!

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 8, 12:10 am, "CW" wrote:
wrote in message.

There is when you're a teenager. That was his point.

Not where I come from, 16 over there, and 18 over here I think.
but that could be the case where you live, some places you're never
old enough.

He's in the US. 21 is the age.

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 8, 12:10 am, "CW" wrote:
wrote in message.

There is when you're a teenager. That was his point.

Not where I come from, 16 over there, and 18 over here I think.
but that could be the case where you live, some places you're never
old enough.

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

I know that- to an extent, but I was 18 at the time. (In Wisconsin,
the legal drinking age is 21.) While it may not have been illegal to
ferment it, it was illegal to drink it!


Young fellow. Was 18 when there was a draft. You'd have to have been a
"head of household," to make it, I believe.

On Sun, 08 Apr 2007 10:39:44 GMT, "George" wrote:


"Prometheus" wrote in message
.. .

I know that- to an extent, but I was 18 at the time. (In Wisconsin,
the legal drinking age is 21.) While it may not have been illegal to
ferment it, it was illegal to drink it!


Young fellow. Was 18 when there was a draft. You'd have to have been a
"head of household," to make it, I believe.

Yep, 28 next week. But I was a "head of household" when I was 18, if
being the leaseholder on my apartment counts...

wrote:
On Apr 8, 12:10 am, "CW" wrote:
wrote in message.

There is when you're a teenager. That was his point.

Not where I come from, 16 over there, and 18 over here I think.
but that could be the case where you live, some places you're never
old enough.

In the US the drinking age is almost universally 21. Was 18 for a while
after the 18 year old vote passed, but the Federales decided that
raising it to 21 would cut down on underage DUI deaths (are the brains
of legislators surgically excised when they win an election?) and
started withholding highway trust fund money from states with lower
ages.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Prometheus wrote:
On 7 Apr 2007 20:45:22 -0700, "
wrote:

On Apr 5, 5:44 am, Prometheus wrote:

/SNIP/

couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

Prometheus, there's nothing illegal about making your own wine or
beer, just don't start competing with the government controlled
liquor/ alcohol selling.

I know that- to an extent, but I was 18 at the time. (In Wisconsin,
the legal drinking age is 21.) While it may not have been illegal to
ferment it, it was illegal to drink it!

A situation not unknown to licensed distillers. The Jack Daniels
distillery is located in a dry county.

snip

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Seems like if you are old enough to volunteer or get drafted to get
shot at or become the next hero, you'd be old enough to have a glass
of wine or a beer.
I guess that would maybe make to much sense for those that make the
rules for others to live by.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On Apr 8, 2:45 am, Prometheus wrote:
On 7 Apr 2007 20:45:22 -0700, "

wrote:
On Apr 5, 5:44 am, Prometheus wrote:

/SNIP/

couldn't quite drag it out of the back of my mind. Now that you
mention it, I did buy one of those the one and only time I attempted
to make wine (when I was a teenager, and trying to circumvent the
law... )

Prometheus, there's nothing illegal about making your own wine or
beer, just don't start competing with the government controlled liquor/
alcohol selling.

I know that- to an extent, but I was 18 at the time. (In Wisconsin,
the legal drinking age is 21.) While it may not have been illegal to
ferment it, it was illegal to drink it!

As the price of a bottle of wine sold to the LCBO (over here in
Ontario) cost them $5.--, that plomb does cost us approx. $15.-- or
better.

I do like a glass of wine with my meal at suppertime, and could not
see me paying that kind of robbery prices for it, so I make my own,
have done so for a number of years, nothing fancy, but a lot better
than the $15.-- stuff they sell, and at 20% of that price.

Ah yes- from what I hear, Canada has expensive liquor, but cheap
marijauna- which is exactly opposite in the US. Around here, a person
can get drunk for $2 if they don't have much taste, or $6-7 for a
bottle of pretty good wine. Oddly enough, the ones in the $7 range
are usually a little better than the $15-$20 bottles, though that may
be a result of my personal tastes.

Every once in a while, I think about getting a beer-brewing kit- but I
don't know that I drink enough to justify it, and I don't really think
I need a reason to increase my alcohol consumption!

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

J. Clarke wrote:

In the US the drinking age is almost universally 21. Was 18 for a while
after the 18 year old vote passed, but the Federales decided that
raising it to 21 would cut down on underage DUI deaths (are the brains
of legislators surgically excised when they win an election?) and
started withholding highway trust fund money from states with lower
ages.


Yup ... you can get into a big states rights argument over that one.

Not biting.

--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube


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wrote:
Seems like if you are old enough to volunteer or get drafted to get
shot at or become the next hero, you'd be old enough to have a glass
of wine or a beer.
I guess that would maybe make to much sense for those that make the
rules for others to live by.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


ISTR that both my Dad (Army / Air Force WW2) and my Son (USMC 3/3) had
no problems obtaining alcoholic beverages for personal consumption on base.

Bill


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http://nmwoodworks.com/cube


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