Restoring bowl dovetails
Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up
with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A day without radiation is a day without sunshine. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
I would be interested in a jig to do that on the router. I would think that
would be quicker than having to redo the jaws on my chuck. Tim "Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A day without radiation is a day without sunshine. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
I would be interested in a jig to do that on the router. I would think that
would be quicker than having to redo the jaws on my chuck. Tim "Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A day without radiation is a day without sunshine. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
It seems to me that the lathe is the right tool to true up the dovetail
-- not a router. Make a small jam chuck -- maybe 3 or so inches in diameter. Your blank should also have the hole caused by your tail center visible; that will make centering it easier but is not completely necessary. Mount it between the jam chuck and the tail stock, top of the bowl to the headstock side and then cleaning up the dovetail is a piece of cake. If it is small then you might need to make a small special cutter to get to it but I'd say this is the way to go. Bill tdup2 wrote: I would be interested in a jig to do that on the router. I would think that would be quicker than having to redo the jaws on my chuck. Tim "Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A day without radiation is a day without sunshine. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
Gerald,
It sounds like a good idea, even if I don't return my warped bowls. I was wondering how the jig would sit stable on a bowl bottom that is also warped? robo hippy Gerald Ross wrote: Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A day without radiation is a day without sunshine. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. Have you ever considered using a pin chuck for roughing and leaving the pillar intact in the drying bowl? Makes an easy recenter because the hole remains full size in the direction of the grain, guiding the bit to center and removing the face grain symmetrically. Additional benefit in that you can re-turn the outside and bottom to circular toward the headstock with no interference. It can also provide you with support by snugging the tailstock up after re-chucking in the dovetail, allowing a faster hogging rate as you turn the interior for thickness and circularity. Protects the turning from an accidental dismount until it's at its lightest and best balance, too. Pictures of the procedure, using both pin chuck and pin jaws at http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeorge/index.html for your examination. 14 degree bit, easily obtainable, will work as well. At a quarter inch depth the degree difference is certainly within the elastic limit of the wood. |
Restoring bowl dovetails
"robo hippy" wrote in message ups.com... Gerald, It sounds like a good idea, even if I don't return my warped bowls. I was wondering how the jig would sit stable on a bowl bottom that is also warped? Anything on three points will sit steady. With an adjustable point, should be able to regain parallel with the original bottom. |
Restoring bowl dovetails
George wrote:
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. Have you ever considered using a pin chuck for roughing and leaving the pillar intact in the drying bowl? Makes an easy recenter because the hole remains full size in the direction of the grain, guiding the bit to center and removing the face grain symmetrically. Additional benefit in that you can re-turn the outside and bottom to circular toward the headstock with no interference. It can also provide you with support by snugging the tailstock up after re-chucking in the dovetail, allowing a faster hogging rate as you turn the interior for thickness and circularity. Protects the turning from an accidental dismount until it's at its lightest and best balance, too. Pictures of the procedure, using both pin chuck and pin jaws at http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeorge/index.html for your examination. 14 degree bit, easily obtainable, will work as well. At a quarter inch depth the degree difference is certainly within the elastic limit of the wood. Thanks! I do use a pin chuck and leave the pillar until the last thing while roughing. Never thought about leaving it until finish turning. Shows my age. The 15 degree bit was easy to find, but only in 1/4 shaft. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A diplomat thinks twice before saying nothing. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
Here it is.
Making the jig. Two pieces of 1/4 masonite 1 ft square. Base of scrap 3/4 wood 1 ft. square. Drilled 1/4" pilot hole in center of both pieces of masonite. Cut 1 1/4" hole in one with hole saw, 5" in second piece with fly cutter on drill press. Glued pieces of masonite together. Cut corners in top & bottom pieces to hold rubber bands. The bottom piece of masonite is just a stiffener and the 5" hole gives clearance for bowl bottom. Used 15 deg. dovetail bit in router with a 5/8 guide bushing. procedure. Sand bottom of bowl flat and top fairly flat on 4" belt sander. Invert bowl on base of jig, center masonite guide on dovetail recess of bowl and hold with rubber bands on corners. Adjust depth of bit to touch bottom of dovetail recess and route slowly letting guide bushing guide the router. A soft start router and slowest speed is the way to go. I stop frequently and blow the dust out so it won't interfere with the guide bushing. Pictures in ABPW. This is only a prototype to see if it was feasible. It has worked well for me for the few weeks I have used it. The masonite is a little flexible and a better clamping method would probably help. I like George's method of leaving the center pillar, but I have a pile of drying bowls that do not have it so for those that warp, it is this or the cole jaws and they do not work so well if the rim is also warped. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A diplomat thinks twice before saying nothing. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... procedure. Sand bottom of bowl flat and top fairly flat on 4" belt sander. Invert bowl on base of jig, center masonite guide on dovetail recess of bowl and hold with rubber bands on corners. Adjust depth of bit to touch bottom of dovetail recess and route slowly letting guide bushing guide the router. A soft start router and slowest speed is the way to go. I stop frequently and blow the dust out so it won't interfere with the guide bushing. Seems you could use a bottoming bit, the same jig and bushing for level rather than fussing with sanding? Then go two steps up in the bushing and work your dovetail. With the longer shanks on 1/2" bits, you could easily go to 1/2 stock and avoid the flex. I'd wedge for level and tack with hot glue for down below. |
Restoring bowl dovetails
George wrote:
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... procedure. Sand bottom of bowl flat and top fairly flat on 4" belt sander. Invert bowl on base of jig, center masonite guide on dovetail recess of bowl and hold with rubber bands on corners. Adjust depth of bit to touch bottom of dovetail recess and route slowly letting guide bushing guide the router. A soft start router and slowest speed is the way to go. I stop frequently and blow the dust out so it won't interfere with the guide bushing. Seems you could use a bottoming bit, the same jig and bushing for level rather than fussing with sanding? Then go two steps up in the bushing and work your dovetail. With the longer shanks on 1/2" bits, you could easily go to 1/2 stock and avoid the flex. I'd wedge for level and tack with hot glue for down below. You lost me. How can I level the bottom if the jig is resting on it? The dovetail bit does cut on the bottom, and levels the bottom of the recess. On the bowls I've done with it, it takes about 2 seconds to knock the bottom flat on the sander. It does not seem necessary to level the top of the bowl. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A dirty book is rarely dusty. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... George wrote: "Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... procedure. Sand bottom of bowl flat and top fairly flat on 4" belt sander. Invert bowl on base of jig, center masonite guide on dovetail recess of bowl and hold with rubber bands on corners. Adjust depth of bit to touch bottom of dovetail recess and route slowly letting guide bushing guide the router. A soft start router and slowest speed is the way to go. I stop frequently and blow the dust out so it won't interfere with the guide bushing. Seems you could use a bottoming bit, the same jig and bushing for level rather than fussing with sanding? Then go two steps up in the bushing and work your dovetail. With the longer shanks on 1/2" bits, you could easily go to 1/2 stock and avoid the flex. I'd wedge for level and tack with hot glue for down below. You lost me. How can I level the bottom if the jig is resting on it? The dovetail bit does cut on the bottom, and levels the bottom of the recess. On the bowls I've done with it, it takes about 2 seconds to knock the bottom flat on the sander. It does not seem necessary to level the top of the bowl. Rest the jig on the table or whatever via the three legs straddling the bowl. I hate belt sanders, gave mine to the school after rounding over and gouging everything I touched with it. Now a block plane.... |
Restoring bowl dovetails
This whole discussion seems to me to elucidate a lot of hard ways to
solve an easy problem. The lathe is the right tool for the job. Bill George wrote: "Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... George wrote: "Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... procedure. Sand bottom of bowl flat and top fairly flat on 4" belt sander. Invert bowl on base of jig, center masonite guide on dovetail recess of bowl and hold with rubber bands on corners. Adjust depth of bit to touch bottom of dovetail recess and route slowly letting guide bushing guide the router. A soft start router and slowest speed is the way to go. I stop frequently and blow the dust out so it won't interfere with the guide bushing. Seems you could use a bottoming bit, the same jig and bushing for level rather than fussing with sanding? Then go two steps up in the bushing and work your dovetail. With the longer shanks on 1/2" bits, you could easily go to 1/2 stock and avoid the flex. I'd wedge for level and tack with hot glue for down below. You lost me. How can I level the bottom if the jig is resting on it? The dovetail bit does cut on the bottom, and levels the bottom of the recess. On the bowls I've done with it, it takes about 2 seconds to knock the bottom flat on the sander. It does not seem necessary to level the top of the bowl. Rest the jig on the table or whatever via the three legs straddling the bowl. I hate belt sanders, gave mine to the school after rounding over and gouging everything I touched with it. Now a block plane.... |
Restoring bowl dovetails
Bill Rubenstein wrote:
It seems to me that the lathe is the right tool to true up the dovetail -- not a router. Make a small jam chuck -- maybe 3 or so inches in diameter. Your blank should also have the hole caused by your tail center visible; that will make centering it easier but is not completely necessary. Mount it between the jam chuck and the tail stock, top of the bowl to the headstock side and then cleaning up the dovetail is a piece of cake. If it is small then you might need to make a small special cutter to get to it but I'd say this is the way to go. Bill Have you ever actually done this? -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A dirty book is rarely dusty. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
On every bowl I do. The only difference is that I use a tenon instead
of a dovetail -- much more secure in my opinion. If I used a dovetail I'd need a small tool to get in given the interference of the tailstock. This is another justification for using a tenon instead of a dovetail. It would make no difference in the finished product because I'd get rid of either. Bill Gerald Ross wrote: Bill Rubenstein wrote: It seems to me that the lathe is the right tool to true up the dovetail -- not a router. Make a small jam chuck -- maybe 3 or so inches in diameter. Your blank should also have the hole caused by your tail center visible; that will make centering it easier but is not completely necessary. Mount it between the jam chuck and the tail stock, top of the bowl to the headstock side and then cleaning up the dovetail is a piece of cake. If it is small then you might need to make a small special cutter to get to it but I'd say this is the way to go. Bill Have you ever actually done this? |
Restoring bowl dovetails
I use this approach also. Its fast and simple
Bill Rubenstein wrote: On every bowl I do. The only difference is that I use a tenon instead of a dovetail -- much more secure in my opinion. If I used a dovetail I'd need a small tool to get in given the interference of the tailstock. This is another justification for using a tenon instead of a dovetail. It would make no difference in the finished product because I'd get rid of either. Bill Gerald Ross wrote: Bill Rubenstein wrote: It seems to me that the lathe is the right tool to true up the dovetail -- not a router. Make a small jam chuck -- maybe 3 or so inches in diameter. Your blank should also have the hole caused by your tail center visible; that will make centering it easier but is not completely necessary. Mount it between the jam chuck and the tail stock, top of the bowl to the headstock side and then cleaning up the dovetail is a piece of cake. If it is small then you might need to make a small special cutter to get to it but I'd say this is the way to go. Bill Have you ever actually done this? |
Restoring bowl dovetails
On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 15:13:58 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:
Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. Looks like a good idea, if I could find a router under all the bowls and shavings.. lol Personally, I'd rather do it on the lathe, feeling that the end really would be true to the bottom... I'd be sort of afraid that your new or cleaned up recess might not be the center of a warped bowl any more, and the bowl would really spin awkwardly.. I find that it's pretty fast using a jam or vacuum chuck and the live center without the point... holds the bowl and is adjustable for allowance of warp and lets you do a little truing and cleanup while you're at it.. YMWV Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
Restoring bowl dovetails
On 25 Jun 2006 17:31:27 -0700, "robo hippy" wrote:
Gerald, It sounds like a good idea, even if I don't return my warped bowls. I was wondering how the jig would sit stable on a bowl bottom that is also warped? robo hippy Ok, Reed... let's assume that you mean "re-turn".. lol My concern on a warped bowl, and I think that was the motivation for using this jig, would be the TOP of the bowl more than the actual recess.. One of the reasons that I went to a vacuum system was that when a bowl is nicely warped, it won't sit flush in a cole/jumbo jaw setup... which makes it hard to hold and harder to do anything to the bottom of the bowl.. Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
Restoring bowl dovetails
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:00:33 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:
snip Thanks! I do use a pin chuck and leave the pillar until the last thing while roughing. Never thought about leaving it until finish turning. Shows my age. The 15 degree bit was easy to find, but only in 1/4 shaft. Gerald... I'd rather ask a dumb question that make a dumber mistake, so I'll ask what kind of chuck you use? My guess is a Nova? The Oneway series would require a straight bit, I think? Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
Restoring bowl dovetails
mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 15:13:58 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: Some bowls dry with a usable dovetail pretty much intact, some wind up with an oval hole. I often chuck them in the cole jaws and re-do the dovetail before finish turning. Recently I made a jig to round up the dovetail with a router. This requires a 15 degree dovetail bit but has worked well for me. If anyone is interested I can do the pictures & description. Looks like a good idea, if I could find a router under all the bowls and shavings.. lol Personally, I'd rather do it on the lathe, feeling that the end really would be true to the bottom... I'd be sort of afraid that your new or cleaned up recess might not be the center of a warped bowl any more, and the bowl would really spin awkwardly.. I find that it's pretty fast using a jam or vacuum chuck and the live center without the point... holds the bowl and is adjustable for allowance of warp and lets you do a little truing and cleanup while you're at it.. YMWV Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm My live center is 1 1/2" diameter and most of my dovetail recesses are about 2". My dovetail scraper is straight and the tailstock is in the way. Even if I had a 1/4" wide dovetail scraper with a dogleg shaft, I don't believe I could center it as well as laying a template over the oval one. Folks, this is not a new religion I'm preaching, just a report of something I tried and found it works using what I already had on hand, other than the router bit. If you have a system that works for you, keep it. I used to use tenons exclusively, and lost a few bowls that departed the lathe. I have so far not lost any off a dovetail chuck but it probably will happen. Repairing an out of round tenon is surely easier than a dovetail recess so comparing the methods of doing so doesn't really work. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A dirty book is rarely dusty. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
Well, I will try again. I must have missed the post button the first
time. When I got my first chuck, I started using a tenon, but had some problems with the jaws eating pieces of the tenon. I then started experimenting with the mortice idea. I did have a few problems with things coming off, and breaking the shoulders, but learned what size of shoulder was necessary, how deep the mortice should be, how much torque to put on the chuck, and how close of a fit was necessary tor the chuck to hold. I can core an 18 inch diameter bowl with the McNaughton system with no problems and no tailstock. I am very agressive when roughing out a bowl. With a 'properly' cut mortice, it will not come off. I never use the tailstock as it isn't necessary. The only down side to not using the tailstock is that all of the vibration from turning goes to the headstock. I wore out the headstock bearings on my PM3520 in 5 years. I now have a Laguna 16HD bandsaw that makes the blanks much more balanced and smoother than the chainsawn blalks that I did for 5 years. This should make this set of headstock bearings last a lot longer. I will let you know when they fail. robo hippy Fred Holder wrote: I agree with Bill, I use a tenon instead of a recess. Many years ago, I sometimes used a recess until a fellow brought in a bowl to the club meeting that was split in half because he had tightened his chuck too much using a recess. After that, I never again used a recess only a tenon. When re-turning a rough turned bowl, I open my chuck jaws quite a bit and place the inside of the bowl over the chuck. I then bring up the tailstock with a live center and clean up the dovetail on the tenon. Because I always start my bowls originally between the face of the jaws of the chuck and a live center to turn the original tenon and the outside of the bowl, I have a center point for remounting after the rough turned bowl has dried. I keep this center point all of the way through until the final turning of the foot on a jam fit chuck or a vacuum chuck. Fred Holder http://www.fholder.com In article , Bill Rubenstein says... On every bowl I do. The only difference is that I use a tenon instead of a dovetail -- much more secure in my opinion. If I used a dovetail I'd need a small tool to get in given the interference of the tailstock. This is another justification for using a tenon instead of a dovetail. It would make no difference in the finished product because I'd get rid of either. Bill Gerald Ross wrote: Bill Rubenstein wrote: It seems to me that the lathe is the right tool to true up the dovetail -- not a router. Make a small jam chuck -- maybe 3 or so inches in diameter. Your blank should also have the hole caused by your tail center visible; that will make centering it easier but is not completely necessary. Mount it between the jam chuck and the tail stock, top of the bowl to the headstock side and then cleaning up the dovetail is a piece of cake. If it is small then you might need to make a small special cutter to get to it but I'd say this is the way to go. Bill Have you ever actually done this? |
Restoring bowl dovetails
"mac davis" wrote in message ... One of the reasons that I went to a vacuum system was that when a bowl is nicely warped, it won't sit flush in a cole/jumbo jaw setup... which makes it hard to hold and harder to do anything to the bottom of the bowl.. LOVE that pin chuck. No fooling around. Re-turns are on center and capable of being held there by the pin chuck for prefancying the bottom before reversing if you care to after rounding the outside. Plus, it's there when you reverse to become that third hand and the tailstock your vacuum chuck. |
Restoring bowl dovetails
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... My live center is 1 1/2" diameter and most of my dovetail recesses are about 2". My dovetail scraper is straight and the tailstock is in the way. Even if I had a 1/4" wide dovetail scraper with a dogleg shaft, I don't believe I could center it as well as laying a template over the oval one. Leave a pillar next time you're roughing and give the pin chuck a shot. Only "special" thing about leaving one is making sure you have a bevel to steady when plunging and pulling center to rim for hogging. Pictures available, though there's nothing earth-shattering there. Folks, this is not a new religion I'm preaching, just a report of something I tried and found it works using what I already had on hand, other than the router bit. If you have a system that works for you, keep it. I used to use tenons exclusively, and lost a few bowls that departed the lathe. I have so far not lost any off a dovetail chuck but it probably will happen. Repairing an out of round tenon is surely easier than a dovetail recess so comparing the methods of doing so doesn't really work. I find the tenon loses bowl depth, behaves poorly in wet sapwood (abysmally with crush types), and of course, unless you use smooth jaws, takes an extra step to make things presentable after you have your work sanded up and ready. Fred mentions how to misuse a chuck in either mode by overtightening. Dovetail people normally relearn quickly what wood workers have always known, that a round peg in a round hole will split wood, because it presses evenly all around. Of course that's also the strength of the smooth jaw - doesn't require that you smash wood to get a grip, just a snug fit. I'm chopping dovetail mortises for a set of KD shelves this morning. In this case through tails, but fox-wedged tenons are a feature in furniture the world around. Same principle as an internal dovetail. |
Restoring bowl dovetails
On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:20:51 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:
mac davis wrote: On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:00:33 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: Gerald... I'd rather ask a dumb question that make a dumber mistake, so I'll ask what kind of chuck you use? My guess is a Nova? The Oneway series would require a straight bit, I think? Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm It is a Nova. How would you make a dovetail recess with a straight bit? That was my point... Oneway uses a straight jaw, Nova a dovetail.. BTW: Please don't feel like I (and the others) are taking pot shots at you.. You opened up a good topic with an idea that you had and we're commenting.. please don't feel flamed or anything.. (picture of jaws on ABPW for clarification) Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
Restoring bowl dovetails
the trick with any jaw set is learning how to cut the edge so the jaws
fit correctly. I usually put the piece onto the jaws and then look closely to see how much of the wood is making contact with the jaws. When I've had problems with a chunk coming loose it can usually be traced back to the surface I prepared. One time I was turning some olive wood and had to repeatedly remount the bow. It turned out that I had done a bad job (too much of a hurry) of preparing the tenon mac davis wrote: On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:20:51 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: mac davis wrote: On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:00:33 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: Gerald... I'd rather ask a dumb question that make a dumber mistake, so I'll ask what kind of chuck you use? My guess is a Nova? The Oneway series would require a straight bit, I think? Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm It is a Nova. How would you make a dovetail recess with a straight bit? That was my point... Oneway uses a straight jaw, Nova a dovetail.. BTW: Please don't feel like I (and the others) are taking pot shots at you.. You opened up a good topic with an idea that you had and we're commenting.. please don't feel flamed or anything.. (picture of jaws on ABPW for clarification) Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
Restoring bowl dovetails
mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:20:51 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: mac davis wrote: On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:00:33 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: Gerald... I'd rather ask a dumb question that make a dumber mistake, so I'll ask what kind of chuck you use? My guess is a Nova? The Oneway series would require a straight bit, I think? Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm It is a Nova. How would you make a dovetail recess with a straight bit? That was my point... Oneway uses a straight jaw, Nova a dovetail.. BTW: Please don't feel like I (and the others) are taking pot shots at you.. You opened up a good topic with an idea that you had and we're commenting.. please don't feel flamed or anything.. (picture of jaws on ABPW for clarification) Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm I assume these are for grasping a spigot, or tenon. What I am talking about is jaws that go into a recess with dovetail sides so that it pulls the piece into the jaws as you tighten them. When I was using spigot (straight) jaws I rounded oval tenons with a hole saw. I left the guide drill bit in until the saw got started then dropped out the drill bit and cut down the length of the spigot. The original live center hole guided the drill bit for the start. This was done on a drill press so there was no need to set up a jam chuck or cole jaws. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A friend in need is someone to avoid. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Restoring bowl dovetails
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:26:28 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:
I assume these are for grasping a spigot, or tenon. What I am talking about is jaws that go into a recess with dovetail sides so that it pulls the piece into the jaws as you tighten them. When I was using spigot (straight) jaws I rounded oval tenons with a hole saw. I left the guide drill bit in until the saw got started then dropped out the drill bit and cut down the length of the spigot. The original live center hole guided the drill bit for the start. This was done on a drill press so there was no need to set up a jam chuck or cole jaws. No, they're for both... The jaws in the picture have a more pronounced "lip" than on my Oneway jaws, but same theory.... cut the recess at 90 degrees and expand into it flush.. From what I've seen in the pictures of the Nova line, they have a pretty definite angle and require a dovetail.. I actually used to cut a dovetail recess for a while because George and others recommended it.. only to find out that you don't do that with the Oneway jaws... lol I think it was Bill Grumbine's DVD where he mentioned using right angle tenons and recesses for the oneway that made me realize my mistake... Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
Restoring bowl dovetails
Well, the way I figure it, the more metal from the chuck jaws
contacting the wood the better. If your chuck jaws are straight, then you want a straight tenon or mortice. If your jaws are dovetailed, then you want to match that angle EXACTLY. If the angle isn't very close, then you are putting a lot more pressure on one part of the side than on the other, and this will cause breakouts, and I speak from experience. You also want the mortice or tenon to be the same diameter or as close as possible to it. I bought the idea that angleing the sides will draw in the jaws to any significant degree. The single biggest factor in getting the bowl to remount on center, with little or no wobble, is to leave the scraper or whatever you use to cut the tenon/dovetail with at the bottom/end of the cut where the jaws will contact, so that it just barely rubs, removing almost nothing. This will even it up a lot, because, 1/64 of an inch here can be 1/8 by the time it gets to the top outside edge of a big bowl. robo hippy mac davis wrote: On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:26:28 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: I assume these are for grasping a spigot, or tenon. What I am talking about is jaws that go into a recess with dovetail sides so that it pulls the piece into the jaws as you tighten them. When I was using spigot (straight) jaws I rounded oval tenons with a hole saw. I left the guide drill bit in until the saw got started then dropped out the drill bit and cut down the length of the spigot. The original live center hole guided the drill bit for the start. This was done on a drill press so there was no need to set up a jam chuck or cole jaws. No, they're for both... The jaws in the picture have a more pronounced "lip" than on my Oneway jaws, but same theory.... cut the recess at 90 degrees and expand into it flush.. From what I've seen in the pictures of the Nova line, they have a pretty definite angle and require a dovetail.. I actually used to cut a dovetail recess for a while because George and others recommended it.. only to find out that you don't do that with the Oneway jaws... lol I think it was Bill Grumbine's DVD where he mentioned using right angle tenons and recesses for the oneway that made me realize my mistake... Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
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