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  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Petrified Woodworker
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

Hello:

Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
10' ceilings.

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
220 VAC powered tools ?

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
of equipment.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.

Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve



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billh
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?


"Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message
news:vj2dg.168059$5Z.7600@dukeread02...
Hello:

Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
10' ceilings.

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
220 VAC powered tools ?

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired
piece
of equipment.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style
of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to
match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet
this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.

Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve




AFAIK, your Problem is the problem alright. I know some people who only like
Twist-Loc style plugs and receptacles so they have no problem cutting
whatever came with the tool off and replacing it. Considering the cost of a
tool this may not be too bad in relative terms of cost.

My General lathe came with the standard 240V 15A plug which looks like a
standard plug except that the hot pins are horizontal instead of vertical.
For my other tools that I converted to 240V, I had already selected that
size since 15A, 240V is plenty for them. My TS is only 2HP so I imagine a
3HP would want at least a 20A receptacle.
billh



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robo hippy
 
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Default Which receptacle?

I am not sure about this, not being an electrician, but the two
different styles of plugs represent 20 and 30 amp plugs. I doubt that
many of your tools will require 30 amp circuits; my 4.5 hp bandsaw
does, but nothing else in the shop does. I have heard that you
shouldn't run 20 amp tools on a 30 amp circuit.
robo hippy

  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Petrified Woodworker
 
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Default Which receptacle?

AFAIK ?

Thanks for the reply . . .
Steve


"billh" wrote in message
.. .

"Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message
news:vj2dg.168059$5Z.7600@dukeread02...
Hello:

Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22'

with
10' ceilings.

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to

most
220 VAC powered tools ?

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there.

Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired
piece
of equipment.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one

style
of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to
match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using

30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet
this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears

the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.

Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve




AFAIK, your Problem is the problem alright. I know some people who only

like
Twist-Loc style plugs and receptacles so they have no problem cutting
whatever came with the tool off and replacing it. Considering the cost of

a
tool this may not be too bad in relative terms of cost.

My General lathe came with the standard 240V 15A plug which looks like a
standard plug except that the hot pins are horizontal instead of vertical.
For my other tools that I converted to 240V, I had already selected that
size since 15A, 240V is plenty for them. My TS is only 2HP so I imagine a
3HP would want at least a 20A receptacle.
billh





  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Harry Pye
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

I have heard that you
shouldn't run 20 amp tools on a 30 amp circuit.


You have it bass akwards. You shouldn't run a 30 amp tool on a 20 amp
circuit. A short in a 20 amp tool will draw well over 30 amps and take
the breaker out like it should.


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Prometheus
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

On Wed, 24 May 2006 14:18:28 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker"
wrote:

Standard Disclaimer, I am not an electrican- take any advice
offered at your own risk

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.


First thought- exactly how big is your equipment? Is 30 amps
necessary? I know my table saw (1.5 hp) will pull 20 amps on 110, but
only 10 amps on 220. The lathe (1 hp) pulls 15 on 110, 7.5 on 220. I
know it's always fun to assume that bigger is better, I'm guilty of it
myself most of the time, but it might not be needed.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
220 VAC powered tools ?


When I got my table saw and rewired for 220, I did a lot of staring at
the bins of plugs and recepticles at the hardware store asking myself
the same question. After consulting the owner's manual from the saw,
I went with the one that has two flat (horizontal) prongs and a
ground. YMMV, but it seems like a good plug as it's quite a lot
smaller than the big dryer plugs, and it is the one I've seen most
commonly on construction sites where 220 is used.

OTHO, the shop I work at has the plugs that have four blades around
the circumference of the plug (one of which has a tab bent at 90
degrees on it) that locks in on the Unisaws. IIRC, these are 220v as
well, and they are nice and heavy, though they are awfully bulky and
won't come loose if you catch one with your foot. When I looked into
those for my contractor's saw, it seemed that it was more money with
no performance difference, as the tool didn't require a separate
neutral. Obviously, that's going to depend on your tools.

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
of equipment.


Sounds smart to me- not only versitile, but those recepticles aren't
cheap.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.


Here's a thought- if you've got machines that *require* 30 amp 200
service, changing the recepticle is bound to be a minor problem
compared to simply moving the machine. My solution- in place in my
own shop, is to wire each recepticle to it's own breaker to reduce the
breaker load and allow me to have an extra layer of insurance when a
tool needs maintenance. It's easy for someone to plug something in,
less so to find the panel and turn the breaker back on- sort of like
an informal home version of lockout/tagout.

I wire all the branches with 10 ga. *in case* I need a bigger capacity
later, but match the breaker to the tool load. Same goes for the
recepticle and plugs. I know the breakers are there to protect the
wires, and not necessarily the tools, but by the same token, I know
that any tool that keeps tripping a breaker that should be big enough
probably needs some attention, and you don't get that warning if you
just jack up the load capacity.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.


As above, I don't know that you need that, though you may. My vote
would be for the recepticles mentioned above (They look like this)

_ _
*
Or these ones:

| _
*

They should be fine for most tools in a home shop. Then if you
actually need a bigger one later, you can change them out on a
case-by-case basis.

Hope this helps- I remember a deep sense of dread when researching
this the first time around, hence the long post.
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Arch
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle? (a COC's response)

Hi steve , While I respect your right to ask and others to respond, I
don't see how you can tell a helpful valid response from a dangerosly
wrong one. That you needed to ask the question makes this probable.

At the risk of being misunderstood or appearing to protect vested
interests, I suggest that in addition to politics and religion there are
other questions that are not appropriate for an unmoderated woodturning
forum since the answers cannot be depended upon to be reliable and
following questionable advice can be dangerous. Some very competent and
some very incompetent, even dangerous suggestions may be offered and you
have no way of knowing which is which.

The internet including rcw being what it is, IMHO questions related to
electrical power hook ups, poisonous chemicals, medical-legal-insurance
risks and similar issues should seldom be raised and always carefullly
considered before being relied upon on an open woodturning forum in
which there are experts, pseudo experts and some who are dangerously
ignorant and don't know it. The latter of course, might very well
include me and right or wrong, there's no intent to offend anyone.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

  #8   Report Post  
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Petrified Woodworker
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle? (a COC's response)

What is a COC.

Thanks for your concern. First of all, if you read my post carefully, all I
really ask is, "typically" what type of plug seems to be hanging off most of
the 220VAC power tools you have bought? I now know that most of the "large"
tools "typically" come with a 6-20P plug. Being 2 pole - 3 wire 20 amp
rated (small diameter / "closed eyes"). Except for the big Laguna / Mini
Max band saws this seems to be the answer I am getting in group & private
e-mails . . . While I welcome any and all electrical advice, it is not what
my post asked for. As to my electrical knowledge, I have over 20 years in
industrial instrumentation - field - design & sales . . . If you are
familiar with the Petrochemical industry I'm sure you know they consider
"low" power control circuitry anything up to and including 220VAC . . . I
have many friends who are electrical P.E's. What I really needed and got was
("typically" what type of plug seems to be hanging off most of the 220VAC
power tools you have bought?")

If the last paragraph of my post seems to be asking for electrical advice,
my apology for poor choice of words . . . . I am simply looking for some of
what's available" at a reasonable price which so many in this and the
woodworking group seem to be an excellent resource for . . .

Again, I really do appreciate your concern . . . I can not tell you how many
times I have read electrical advice on here that makes me want to cringe . .
.. . And my stupid wording sometimes causes huge "FLAMES" as is. . . But
trust me, I'm working with a permit, being inspected and got a second set of
eyes on my prints (yes I drew them) from a licensed electrical engineer on
the wiring setup in my new shop . . . .

Again, thanks . . . .
Steve





"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi steve , While I respect your right to ask and others to respond, I
don't see how you can tell a helpful valid response from a dangerosly
wrong one. That you needed to ask the question makes this probable.

At the risk of being misunderstood or appearing to protect vested
interests, I suggest that in addition to politics and religion there are
other questions that are not appropriate for an unmoderated woodturning
forum since the answers cannot be depended upon to be reliable and
following questionable advice can be dangerous. Some very competent and
some very incompetent, even dangerous suggestions may be offered and you
have no way of knowing which is which.

The internet including rcw being what it is, IMHO questions related to
electrical power hook ups, poisonous chemicals, medical-legal-insurance
risks and similar issues should seldom be raised and always carefullly
considered before being relied upon on an open woodturning forum in
which there are experts, pseudo experts and some who are dangerously
ignorant and don't know it. The latter of course, might very well
include me and right or wrong, there's no intent to offend anyone.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings



  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Arch
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle? (a COC's long response)

Steve, COC is a group of crotchety old coots and my poorly put post more
than lived up to the name for which I apologize.
Thanks for understanding my intent and I hope the others who answered
your query will also. I have a misguided tendency to post to the
general NG which sometimes comes over as critical of an individual.
Also, I tend to change my opinions often (see my web site), ex: I've
posted electrical advice myself in the past, once having having taught
medical electronics & telemetry and started a small R&D company,
"Medical Measurements" which is now lost somewhere in Johnson & Johnson.
Nobody likes a holier than thou, patronizing post that presumes to know
what's best for others. With your background you had good reason to be
piqued.

Actually I did understand your question and thought it clearly put. I
was wrong to impugn your competence by jumping to the wrong conclusion
that you were inexperienced else you would have seen for yourself the
various kinds of plugs on the machine tools displayed in stores.

I should have known that not every place has the stores we have in this
area and not everyone has the time to visit them. I was even wrong to
assume that you are in the U.S. and not the U.K. where the plugs are
different and the standard is 230V,

Sincere congratulations on your well thought out new shop.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

  #10   Report Post  
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Petrified Woodworker
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle? (a COC's long response)

E-mail - YUK . . . No matter how big your smile is when you say something,
it always seems to come out "crappy" . . .LOL

I'm talking about mine . . . LOL

I sincerely meant "THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONCERN" and only mentioned electrical
knowledge to let you know I would not do anything "too stupid" . . . without
contacting someone who did this for a living everyday . . .

BTW my first machine will be a Jet Mini and if I am lucky maybe some talent
from this group will migrate my way so I don't end up with the worlds
largest pencil sharpener . . . .

Isn't it amazing, with all this technology and we are all happy to be back
to "writing letters", they just get there faster . . . .I think I now
realize why in years past, written word was so "flowery" . . . it was needed
to set the desired tone of the letter . . .

Again, thanks & I too will soon be a COC . . . 52 now and counting . . .
Steve



"Arch" wrote in message
...
Steve, COC is a group of crotchety old coots and my poorly put post more
than lived up to the name for which I apologize.
Thanks for understanding my intent and I hope the others who answered
your query will also. I have a misguided tendency to post to the
general NG which sometimes comes over as critical of an individual.
Also, I tend to change my opinions often (see my web site), ex: I've
posted electrical advice myself in the past, once having having taught
medical electronics & telemetry and started a small R&D company,
"Medical Measurements" which is now lost somewhere in Johnson & Johnson.
Nobody likes a holier than thou, patronizing post that presumes to know
what's best for others. With your background you had good reason to be
piqued.

Actually I did understand your question and thought it clearly put. I
was wrong to impugn your competence by jumping to the wrong conclusion
that you were inexperienced else you would have seen for yourself the
various kinds of plugs on the machine tools displayed in stores.

I should have known that not every place has the stores we have in this
area and not everyone has the time to visit them. I was even wrong to
assume that you are in the U.S. and not the U.K. where the plugs are
different and the standard is 230V,

Sincere congratulations on your well thought out new shop.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings





  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?


"Harry Pye" wrote in message
roups.com...
I have heard that you
shouldn't run 20 amp tools on a 30 amp circuit.


You have it bass akwards. You shouldn't run a 30 amp tool on a 20 amp
circuit. A short in a 20 amp tool will draw well over 30 amps and take the
breaker out like it should.


Which, oddly enough, is the reason they make the plugs different. To
prevent you from doing so.

Clever folks who wrote the NEC, what?


  #12   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Arch
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle? (a COC's long response)

Well said--Nuff said, Steve, You are going to have fun with the Jet,
just don't plug it into one of your 220s. (won't I ever learn that
icons don't neutralize my well meant, but distorted humor. 'G') Anyway,
a warm welcome, please share your turning experiences with us and post
'early & often'.

Like a cameleon, I'll change colors and suggest a wiring caution to any
electrically challenged DIYer that might be reading this: Remember that
when 110V power is taken from opposite legs of the panel and distributed
to outlets near one another there is 220 volts between the hots. I was
appalled to see this in an early day intensive care unit that had
several two conductor extension cords running about.

To continue giving advice that I advised others not to , I don't know
if they are expensive or up to code, but should you consider the
adapters used to connect motor homes & travel trailers to the various
power outlets at different campsites?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
jd
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

I wired (actually pre-wired) everything in 10gauge wire (at least where I
expected to need 220s). I leave the wires dead (run, but not into the
breaker box, and ending in an outlet box with nothing in it). When I finaly
manage tog et up the scratch for the tool, I read the owners manual, get the
appropriate recptacle and breaker, and install them.

I have tools that want 30 amp, 40 amps, and I think even a 20 amp (I might
be wrong on that one - this is from memory). The way IO figure it, the guys
that design the motors and tools know what they're doing a lot better than I
do. I use their specs.

--JD


  #14   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
billh
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

"As Far As I Know"
billh
"Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message
newsY3dg.168066$5Z.2651@dukeread02...
AFAIK ?

Thanks for the reply . . .
Steve


"billh" wrote in message
.. .

"Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message
news:vj2dg.168059$5Z.7600@dukeread02...
Hello:

Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22'

with
10' ceilings.

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to

most
220 VAC powered tools ?

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each
box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there.

Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired
piece
of equipment.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one

style
of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to
match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using

30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet
this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears

the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.

Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve




AFAIK, your Problem is the problem alright. I know some people who only

like
Twist-Loc style plugs and receptacles so they have no problem cutting
whatever came with the tool off and replacing it. Considering the cost of

a
tool this may not be too bad in relative terms of cost.

My General lathe came with the standard 240V 15A plug which looks like a
standard plug except that the hot pins are horizontal instead of
vertical.
For my other tools that I converted to 240V, I had already selected that
size since 15A, 240V is plenty for them. My TS is only 2HP so I imagine
a
3HP would want at least a 20A receptacle.
billh







  #15   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Prometheus
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle? (a COC's response)

On Wed, 24 May 2006 21:26:28 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker"
wrote:

Again, I really do appreciate your concern . . . I can not tell you how many
times I have read electrical advice on here that makes me want to cringe . .
. . And my stupid wording sometimes causes huge "FLAMES" as is. . . But
trust me, I'm working with a permit, being inspected and got a second set of
eyes on my prints (yes I drew them) from a licensed electrical engineer on
the wiring setup in my new shop . . . .

Again, thanks . . . .
Steve


Oh man... I'm sure you already have, but disregard my rambling then.
I figured you were just one of the many folks who just can't afford an
electrician.


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Bradford Chaucer
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?



You are making the classic mistake of assuming that the rating of an outlet
must IN ALL CASES match the circuit breaker rating. This is true for
dedicated circuits, i.e. one breaker feeds one machine (like the example of
a dryer or electric stove). However , you can have general purpose 220vac
circuits just like the more comon 120vac general (lighting) circuits. In
that case, you would use either 15 or 20 Amp receptacles, which are
available as duplex type outlets.

First, make a list of all the machines that will be wired to run 220v, and
estimate RUNNING amperage for each. Most smaller table saws (up to 2+ HP
on motor), Band saws, dust collectors, jointers, planers etc will draw less
than 20 amps at 220v. (If they will run 120 v with a standard parallel
blade plug, the most they will draw at 220v will be about 10 amps!!)

Next identify which machines will need to run in combination, i.e. T/S and
dust collector, etc but not T/S and Lathe!! This should indicate which
machines must or should be on separate circuits.

Finally identify machines which will need a dedicated circuit, i.e. a 3+ HP
T/S or a large compressor

Now run several circuits at 220vac, 20 Amps for the lighter stuff. Just
like with 120 vac circuits, you can have more than one outlet per circuit.
In this case, the outlet configuration and wire size is what must match the
C/B rating, i.e. with a 20a breaker at least 14 awg romex (I'd use 12 awg)
and 20 a outlets. The C/B protects the wiring and branch circuit, but not
so much the individual device plugged into it.

Run several normal 120vac, 20a general circuits for your drills, radios,
lamps, bench grinders, etc

Run each dedicated circuit for a specific machine. I suspect that most of
these machines will be delivered with either a junction box for you to wire
to, like a drier or range, or a cord but no plug (you add the plug). In
this case, you can standardize on any convenient configuration like a 30 a
range or drier type. The C/B and wiring should be sized for the specific
machine.

For your general 220vac circuits, I would go with 20a outlets as either 15
or 20 amp pluds will fit them Outlets are generally backward compatable,
but not forward, so a 15 amp plug will fit a 20 a outlet, but a 20a plug
will not fit a 15 a receptacle.

If you have other questions, don't hesitate to email me.



On Wed, 24 May 2006 14:18:28 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker"
wrote:

Hello:

Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
10' ceilings.

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
220 VAC powered tools ?

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
of equipment.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.

Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve


  #17   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Henry St.Pierre
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

[posted and mailed]

Bradford Chaucer wrote in
news
snip a lot of stuff

. The C/B protects the wiring
and branch circuit, but not so much the individual device plugged into
it.


The CB protects the wiring PERIOD or should.
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
Rick Frazier
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which receptacle?

When I built and wired my shop, I put in L6-30 twist lock outlets for
all 240 circuits. These are three conductor, 30 ampere 250 volt NEMA
rated outlets, and all of my 220 volt equipment either has a 10 guage
cord and plug attached (at least up to the CB/Contactor/Switch on the
equipment). Typically, the shop supports two lathes, one cabinet saw, a
couple of (glassworking) kilns and a dust collector running on 240
volts. Due to the relatively small area of the shop, things get moved
around periodically. A 240 volt bandsaw and a planer are on the wish
list when I get some extra cash.

If you are worried about protecting the wiring in a given piece of
equipment, just make up a couple of adapter cords with a 10 guage cable
feeding a "4-plex" box with a lower rated circuit breaker in one half,
feeding an appropriate lower rated outlet in the other half. I used a
couple of these in my old shop and they worked great when "visiting
lathes" needed to be connected without changing their plugs or cords.

For a couple of circuits, I had a 20Ampere Circuit Breaker installed in
the breaker panel, though "the house wiring" is all 10 guage. Local
inspector is happy as long as breaker is 30A or less for 10Ga wire. As
others may have mentioned, breaker in the main panel protects the
building wiring, not the circuitry/wiring/motor in the machine. The
extra cost of replacing the power cord of the machines with 10 guage
wire is more than made up by not worrying about whether the cord will
heat if the machine tries to draw more current (even briefly) and lowers
any voltage drop it would see from a smaller conductor (higher guage
number). Some equipment (heavily loaded table saw, for example) also
seems to work better with the 10 guage cord than the one that came with
it... A couple of my machines have a lower value (15A, 20A) circuit
breaker at the input to the machine (before the operator
switch/contactor).

Having all of the outlets wired the same is great for moving things
around, and I've still got several "pigtails" that terminate in a double
box containing a lower rated Circuit breaker feeding a different outlet
(for example, there is at least one with the more popular 15A
220/240/250 outlet that come with some saws and lathes, so when other
lathes are "visiting" or I rent a piece of equipment that needs 240
volts they can be plugged in without having to change the plug or cord.

Good Luck!
--Rick


Petrified Woodworker wrote:
Hello:

Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
10' ceilings.

Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:

(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.

My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
220 VAC powered tools ?

What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
of equipment.

Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.

Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.

Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve



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