If this would have happened in a mast production shop I would simply replace
the grinding wheel with a well cured one. Then I would dress it with a
diamond. Before replacing anything I would dress the wobbling grinding
wheel with a diamond dressing tool. BTW look at the Lee Valley catalogue
these diamond tools are not all that expensive around $20.00 - $30-00. Or
you may already have a steel dressing wheel that you could use for the time
being.
If all this failed you may have to dispose of the wobbling wheel and check
the shaft and bearings with a needle gauge. Even when a grinding wheel is
new it is best to true it with a diamond dresser before you use it. The
other issue is the quality and curing of the grinding wheel. Good quality
and properly cured grinding wheel are normally sold for more money.


"Harry Curley" wrote in message
. ..
I have a two 8" grinding wheels-grinder for sharping my turning tools. The
one wheel is wobbling quite abit and the other one does not. I have removed
the wobbling wheel and there does not appear to be a damage to the shaft or
the serrated bushing holding the wheel onto the shaft. There are two large
metals discs one of the inside of wheel and one on the outside of the wheel
behind the nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft, There doesn't appear
any excessive wear on the center of the grinding wheel attached to the
shaft. This condition just started recently.
When purchased(3 years ago) both wheels ran true Any suggestions?

"Harry Curley" wrote in message
. ..
I have a two 8" grinding wheels-grinder for sharping my turning tools. The
one wheel is wobbling quite abit and the other one does not. I have removed
the wobbling wheel and there does not appear to be a damage to the shaft or
the serrated bushing holding the wheel onto the shaft. There are two large
metals discs one of the inside of wheel and one on the outside of the wheel
behind the nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft, There doesn't appear
any excessive wear on the center of the grinding wheel attached to the
shaft. This condition just started recently.
When purchased(3 years ago) both wheels ran true Any suggestions?

I interpret "wobble" to be a left to right and back again. Dressing won't
help this, of course. Bounce, it might. If there's no runout at the end of
the shaft, then your grinder is till sound.

I think your culprit is at the center of the wheel. Turn some wooden
bushings and try them out instead of the factory types. Do an inspection
for damage to the stone while you're at it.

If the washers were thick enough and tight enough to self-align, they might
help. As it is, they're just there to grip the wheel.

If you switch the wheels, you can easily find out whether the problem is
the wheel or the grinder. Then you go from there.

Bill

Harry Curley wrote:
I have a two 8" grinding wheels-grinder for sharping my turning tools. The
one wheel is wobbling quite abit and the other one does not. I have removed
the wobbling wheel and there does not appear to be a damage to the shaft or
the serrated bushing holding the wheel onto the shaft. There are two large
metals discs one of the inside of wheel and one on the outside of the wheel
behind the nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft, There doesn't appear
any excessive wear on the center of the grinding wheel attached to the
shaft. This condition just started recently.
When purchased(3 years ago) both wheels ran true Any suggestions?

Hi Harry

You, I and a lot of others have, or have had this problem, so much so
that Oneway has made the precision balancing system, I find it rather
expensive, but it does a excellent job.

The problem has arisen because the flanges that hold on the wheels are
now stamped out of a steel plate, rather than machined, as was done
before and still for the higher priced machines.

If you are able to machine the flanges or have it done, or have someone
make new ones, the wobble is almost guaranteed to be gone, if there is
uneven weight within the stone itself, (you only notice that by
vibration), you need a balancing system, like the Oneway, it has
machined flanges for 2 wheels and weights, however in order for the
system to slide on your grinders shaft and in your wheel you do need a
stone whit a large hole.
I hope that this helps you, if I have not been clear enough, don't
hesitate to ask for a more or better explanation.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I have a two 8" grinding wheels-grinder for sharping my turning tools. The
one wheel is wobbling quite abit and the other one does not. I have removed
the wobbling wheel and there does not appear to be a damage to the shaft or
the serrated bushing holding the wheel onto the shaft. There are two large
metals discs one of the inside of wheel and one on the outside of the wheel
behind the nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft, There doesn't appear
any excessive wear on the center of the grinding wheel attached to the
shaft. This condition just started recently.
When purchased(3 years ago) both wheels ran true Any suggestions?

there is a cheap solution - get a discarded diamond saw blade and use
it to true the blade (including the sides - I couldn't find a
discarded one, so I bought a small blade at HF for about $4 - works
fine for occasional use



On 14 Feb 2006 17:17:34 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi Harry

You, I and a lot of others have, or have had this problem, so much so
that Oneway has made the precision balancing system, I find it rather
expensive, but it does a excellent job.

The problem has arisen because the flanges that hold on the wheels are
now stamped out of a steel plate, rather than machined, as was done
before and still for the higher priced machines.

If you are able to machine the flanges or have it done, or have someone
make new ones, the wobble is almost guaranteed to be gone, if there is
uneven weight within the stone itself, (you only notice that by
vibration), you need a balancing system, like the Oneway, it has
machined flanges for 2 wheels and weights, however in order for the
system to slide on your grinders shaft and in your wheel you do need a
stone whit a large hole.
I hope that this helps you, if I have not been clear enough, don't
hesitate to ask for a more or better explanation.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
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wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Harry

You, I and a lot of others have, or have had this problem, so much so
that Oneway has made the precision balancing system, I find it rather
expensive, but it does a excellent job.

The problem has arisen because the flanges that hold on the wheels are
now stamped out of a steel plate, rather than machined, as was done
before and still for the higher priced machines.


Anyone can lap a stamped washer if they care to. If the sides of the stone
are not straight, won't do a bit of good. Matter of fact, won't do a bit of
good or harm if the washers are stamped, because the stone doesn't flex, and
the hole is neither small enough nor the washer thick enough to align the
stone. It would also need ground threads like those on your tablesaw arbor,
of course, to be effective. Alignment is the job of the insert - bushing -
which is often made of flexible material like plastic and can deform and
stay that way if bumped.

Matter of fact, though you can spend as much as you want for a "balancing"
system, a bit of sheet lead held firmly by those washers against the
appropriate portion of the wheel does a wonderful job. Put cardboard where
lead's not required but shimming might be if your washers are bored and
lapped so precisely as to require it. Balance is an entirely different
matter from alignment, only being affected if the wheel is severely
off-center.

I have learned that even when replacing the insert - bushing and washers the
outer circle of the grinding wheel was out of round and need it to be trued.
I have had wobbling and out of round problems with wheel made in the middle
east and had to returned them to the industrial supplier. At the end of the
day I invested in a diamond wheel dresser. I have found that the insert -
bushings are made with stamped metal and plastic and the ID and OD are not
concentrically.

"George" George@least wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Harry

You, I and a lot of others have, or have had this problem, so much so
that Oneway has made the precision balancing system, I find it rather
expensive, but it does a excellent job.

The problem has arisen because the flanges that hold on the wheels are
now stamped out of a steel plate, rather than machined, as was done
before and still for the higher priced machines.


Anyone can lap a stamped washer if they care to. If the sides of the
stone are not straight, won't do a bit of good. Matter of fact, won't do
a bit of good or harm if the washers are stamped, because the stone
doesn't flex, and the hole is neither small enough nor the washer thick
enough to align the stone. It would also need ground threads like those
on your tablesaw arbor, of course, to be effective. Alignment is the job
of the insert - bushing - which is often made of flexible material like
plastic and can deform and stay that way if bumped.

Matter of fact, though you can spend as much as you want for a "balancing"
system, a bit of sheet lead held firmly by those washers against the
appropriate portion of the wheel does a wonderful job. Put cardboard
where lead's not required but shimming might be if your washers are bored
and lapped so precisely as to require it. Balance is an entirely
different matter from alignment, only being affected if the wheel is
severely off-center.

wrote in message
...
I have learned that even when replacing the insert - bushing and washers
the outer circle of the grinding wheel was out of round and need it to be
trued.

If the old bushing was out of round, of course. Couldn't be otherwise.
Actually, if the old one was perfect and the new one isn't, same pertains.

I have had wobbling and out of round problems with wheel made in the
middle east and had to returned them to the industrial supplier. At the
end of the day I invested in a diamond wheel dresser. I have found that
the insert - bushings are made with stamped metal and plastic and the ID
and OD are not concentrically.

When I bought my mandrel, it came with the standard wheels of the day and
some wonderful soft metal (may have been lead, but I'm not telling)
bushings. You could adjust/tighten them with a punch. When new wheels were
installed, first thing I did was put in the old bushings, though the new
appear to be of a polyethylene-type plastic which might also be adjustable
with a punch. .

On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 00:41:42 GMT, Bill Rubenstein wrote:

If you switch the wheels, you can easily find out whether the problem is
the wheel or the grinder. Then you go from there.

Bill

thanks, Bill.. I was going to suggest that but it sounded too easy...
sometimes we look for the complex answers first.. *g*

Harry Curley wrote:
I have a two 8" grinding wheels-grinder for sharping my turning tools. The
one wheel is wobbling quite abit and the other one does not. I have removed
the wobbling wheel and there does not appear to be a damage to the shaft or
the serrated bushing holding the wheel onto the shaft. There are two large
metals discs one of the inside of wheel and one on the outside of the wheel
behind the nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft, There doesn't appear
any excessive wear on the center of the grinding wheel attached to the
shaft. This condition just started recently.
When purchased(3 years ago) both wheels ran true Any suggestions?



Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 00:41:42 GMT, Bill Rubenstein wrote:

If you switch the wheels, you can easily find out whether the problem is
the wheel or the grinder. Then you go from there.

Bill

thanks, Bill.. I was going to suggest that but it sounded too easy...
sometimes we look for the complex answers first.. *g*

Make sure you switch _with_ the bushings, or it doesn't work.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi George

If you want to shim your grinder stone with lead and cardboard and
adjust/tighten with a punch, you go right ahead.
I would certainly not advice anyone to go and do that.

Probably because you've got one of those expensive methods?

A properly machined flange that fits the grinder shaft, and at 90
degrees to the shaft, will keep the wheel at 90 degrees and the stone
will not wobble, if there is a twist in the wheel you better get
another stone.

HOGWASH! The stone will not deform no matter the pressure of the washer,
which is why it is completely unimportant to have lapped faces. A bad stone
will be a bad stone, and no washer will make it otherwise. OTOH, if the
washer is flexible, it can make some minor adjustments as the nut is
tightened to conform to the surface of the stone. This can be a great asset
in fiddling the stone to concentricity.

The bushings used to be lead and this meant more inventory for
different shaft sizes, and that is the reason they now (mostly) use
layered plastic bushings (fit all) just to center the wheel on the
shaft and than the wheel should be trued up.
For imbalances of the wheel itself you should use a balancing system or
get another stone.

That's what weighting the high side with lead does. Well said.

Hi George

Can you not read ??

The flanges WILL keep the stone at 90 degrees to the shaft, if they are
machined to size and to fit on the shaft at 90 degrees, I did NOT say
anything about deforming the stone, I did say if the stone has a twist
in itself, with other words, the stone is defective in its form, than
get an other stone.
I have changed enough grinder stones and even machined flanges in my
live to know what the common problems are and how to tune the
grinders, so just read and learn.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum28.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo