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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#81
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#82
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Bill, Many here have offered a considered idea they thought might be
useful and invited comments, but were disappointed when constructive comments were completely diverted by attempts at wit. Who among us has not been a diverter? I'm the one this time. I think that your game would be great for breaking the ice and making new friends wherever groups of turners congregate. A fun and not confrontational way to subject web-based info (or misinfo) to comparison with tested turning techniques. In addition to smaller lathes and baskets. What about the team being given a small green log to make shavings on a pole or crank wheel type lathe powered by kids? Easily broken down and moved, cheap, safe, unusual, non-electric, rain safe, etc. May not be great ideas, but my half-ass suggestions beat my half-wit comments. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#84
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Arch wrote:
Bill, Many here have offered a considered idea they thought might be useful and invited comments, but were disappointed when constructive comments were completely diverted by attempts at wit. Who among us has not been a diverter? I'm the one this time. I think that your game would be great for breaking the ice and making new friends wherever groups of turners congregate. A fun and not confrontational way to subject web-based info (or misinfo) to comparison with tested turning techniques. In addition to smaller lathes and baskets. What about the team being given a small green log to make shavings on a pole or crank wheel type lathe powered by kids? Easily broken down and moved, cheap, safe, unusual, non-electric, rain safe, etc. May not be great ideas, but my half-ass suggestions beat my half-wit comments. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings Arch: I think that we have a book idea here. Lathe projects where the object is something other than making a bowl, hollow form, spindle, etc. Heck -- sometimes we start out making a bowl and end up with a very large napkin ring instead. Maybe that sort of thing should be included as well? Bill Bill |
#85
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"Bruce Barnett" wrote: Perhaps we should form a committee on rules for forming committies who set rules for committes that specify rules for the contests. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ First, we need to decide on the shape of the table that the committee will sit around. But, we can't do that until your Committee on Rules for Forming Committees is formed. I used to belong to the Society for the Abolition of Abolition Societies, but that membership didn't last long. I also used to belong to a group whose focus narrowed, until its sole activity was to run itself. There was a sizeable membership that continued to attend meetings, and serve on committees without noticing this. |
#86
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Hi George
Your right about that but, you sure can take fatter slices and cut faster with soft wet wood than with hard and dry IMO. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo George wrote: " Why should the moisture content matter? Gravity works fine for wet and dry. |
#87
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Hi Arch
Thanks for the heads up, never even considered all those. but did think of maybe lawyer involvement not to forget insurance , there must be some more I'm sure. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo Arch wrote: Bill, be careful what games you wish for. Any group that can argue for days about chuck jaws probably shouldn't be involved in competitions involving machinery and sharp tools. In addition to the mayhem, have you considered steroid use, plugged gouge handles, corporate sponsors, ad patches on clothes, salary caps, pro vs am, interminable regional playoffs, rowdy spectators, player's unions, government oversight,TV contracts; just for starters. In the grand tradition of rcw, I try to be cheerful, supportive and optimistic. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#88
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I should not be writing this, because you have obviously not read the messages to this point as written, but through some sort of personal filter that fails to connect accusations, challenges and ad hominems to the persons who have written them and the order of who was pontificating and who replying. So, as before, I will continue to consider this place to be about turning, not people. Where there are things which pertain to all places and people, I will continue to make them as simple declarations of fact - third person. Those things I do, favor, or want will continue in first person singular so as to be properly identified to those who understand the difference by grammar. it was never personal for me. i have no ego invested in this. its just about the turning and the ideas. ......so it was just a misunderstanding then. i hope there are no hard feelings. |
#89
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On Wed, 4 May 2005 21:35:32 -0700, Bill Rubenstein wrote
(in message ): Ok, now is my chance to expose to the world a little game I've been inventing in my spare time. It isn't fully developed -- as you'll see in a moment. It is called (preliminary) -- team turning. A team is made up of one lathe with a standard sized bowl blank, one catcher with a 35 gallon trash container and one turner. The winning team is the one which fills the trash container the quickest. It is not allowed, though, for anyone to handle the shavings -- they have to go into the container on the fly. Big, hogging cuts may remove more material quickly but a continuous stream of shavings could fill the bucket more quickly. Also, maybe there should be a line around the lathe and the bucket cannot go within the line. Any comments? Bill that sounds like a lot of fun. as well as a great way to waste wood. waiting for someone to chime in with the Bill Jones quote about the Utah egg cup races |
#90
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In article ,
neill wrote: am i missing something or did oneway do a lousy job planning the sizes of their jaws. #2 jaws will grab a tennon from 1 3/4"-3 1/4". #3 jaws will grab a tennon from 3 7/8"-5 1/4". so anything larger than 3 1/4" but smaller than 3 7/8" is not covered. now they have the new #4 jaws. #4 jaws will grab a tennon from 4 1/4"-5 3/4". Hi Neill, after all of this I think you should chuck the Oneways and look into the Vicmarcs. But then again, I might be a little biased. |
#91
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"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message ... Hi George Your right about that but, you sure can take fatter slices and cut faster with soft wet wood than with hard and dry IMO. Have fun and take care No doubt the rules committee will have to level the field. If the game is won by filling the bag, thin cuts with fast advance make great mats of "Afro" shavings. You're getting more air than wood, but fills up fast. That is a bit tougher with wet, because they pack.... |
#92
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On Fri, 6 May 2005 06:52:59 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:
"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message ... Hi George Your right about that but, you sure can take fatter slices and cut faster with soft wet wood than with hard and dry IMO. Have fun and take care No doubt the rules committee will have to level the field. If the game is won by filling the bag, thin cuts with fast advance make great mats of "Afro" shavings. You're getting more air than wood, but fills up fast. That is a bit tougher with wet, because they pack.... George... I was thinking last night about your question regarding choice of gouges.. I think the rules committee will have to determine your handicap and supply you with a tool to help level the playing field.. I was thinking something in the order of a plastic spoon with a finger nail grind?? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#93
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On Thu, 5 May 2005 23:59:27 -0700, Owen Lowe wrote
(in message ): In article , neill wrote: am i missing something or did oneway do a lousy job planning the sizes of their jaws. #2 jaws will grab a tennon from 1 3/4"-3 1/4". #3 jaws will grab a tennon from 3 7/8"-5 1/4". so anything larger than 3 1/4" but smaller than 3 7/8" is not covered. now they have the new #4 jaws. #4 jaws will grab a tennon from 4 1/4"-5 3/4". Hi Neill, after all of this I think you should chuck the Oneways and look into the Vicmarcs. But then again, I might be a little biased. LOL! verry funny Owen! i would get a vic but i dont like the jaws lol! seriously though i actually own a vic 120. its one of my 3 main chucks. i use it for the big wood jaw plates for finnishing bowl bottoms. its a nice chuck but i never have been able to figure out why vic owners seem to think they are so supirior. |
#94
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In article ,
neill wrote: LOL! verry funny Owen! i would get a vic but i dont like the jaws lol! seriously though i actually own a vic 120. its one of my 3 main chucks. i use it for the big wood jaw plates for finnishing bowl bottoms. its a nice chuck but i never have been able to figure out why vic owners seem to think they are so supirior. Well... my likes are the enclosed back, allen key "wrench", and high quality. (I was able to purchase my Vic back when Southern Woodturning Supply in Australia was exporting and the US:AUS dollar conversion was in our favor - as I recall my Vic was about $160 including 10 day shipping so price was also a motivating factor in Vic's favor.) As to jaws, I have the standard 2", Shark jaws, stepped dovetail and long nose. I use the first 3 frequently and the long nose set was purchased before they came out with their little 1" dovetails - which I'd get now in place of the long-nose. Between the standard jaws and the stepped dovetails, I can do all that I generally need to. I like the Shark jaws for big, honkin', green wood hunks that need a secure hold. The 1" dovetails would be nice for doing little finials and tops and such. |
#95
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Well... my likes are the enclosed back, allen key "wrench", and high quality. (I was able to purchase my Vic back when Southern Woodturning Supply in Australia was exporting and the US:AUS dollar conversion was in our favor yea thats when i got mine too. couldnt resist the price. it is a nice chuck. http://neillswoodturning.myphotoalbum.com |
#96
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Bill Rubenstein wrote in message
on Thursday 05 May 2005 08:02 pm: Heck -- sometimes we start out making a bowl and end up with a very large napkin ring instead. Maybe that sort of thing should be included as well? Bill I have some experience with that! Well, actually, mine ended up looking more like a wooden "c" clip. But the principle (and velocities) are the same. ;-) Bill |
#97
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Well, I missed most of this thread as it was going on, and was
surprised to see so much activity. For me, I use a mortice. The closer the mortice (opening)is in size to the jaw size, the better the hold is. I would imagion the same is true with a tennon. If I could get more money for the bowls with the mortice removed, I would take the extra time to do it, but the buyers don't see any difference, so I won't waste my time. robo hippy neill wrote: Well... my likes are the enclosed back, allen key "wrench", and high quality. (I was able to purchase my Vic back when Southern Woodturning Supply in Australia was exporting and the US:AUS dollar conversion was in our favor yea thats when i got mine too. couldnt resist the price. it is a nice chuck. http://neillswoodturning.myphotoalbum.com |
#98
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"robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... Well, I missed most of this thread as it was going on, and was surprised to see so much activity. For me, I use a mortice. The closer the mortice (opening)is in size to the jaw size, the better the hold is. I would imagion the same is true with a tennon. If I could get more money for the bowls with the mortice removed, I would take the extra time to do it, but the buyers don't see any difference, so I won't waste my time. robo hippy "The buyers don't see any difference".......Does this mean you have offered properly finished bowls and the buying public rejected them and opted for your bowls with the mortice still apparent? -- Regards, M.J. (Mike) Orr www.island.net/~morr |
#99
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Properly finished???? Oh, you mean doing it the same way that you do
it. I have offered bowls with the mortice remaining, and with it removed. The deciding factors, are shape, color, and character of the wood. Price is some what of a factor, but never has the way the bottom was finished had an influence on choice. If both are clean, sanded and finished (no tear out left), and the shapes are the same, it makes almost no difference to the buyer. If I remove the mortice, I have to charge more. If they look the same, but one costs more, which one would you buy? robo hippy |
#100
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"robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... Properly finished???? Oh, you mean doing it the same way that you do it. I have offered bowls with the mortice remaining, and with it removed. The deciding factors, are shape, color, and character of the wood. Price is some what of a factor, but never has the way the bottom was finished had an influence on choice. If both are clean, sanded and finished (no tear out left), and the shapes are the same, it makes almost no difference to the buyer. If I remove the mortice, I have to charge more. If they look the same, but one costs more, which one would you buy? robo hippy Simple. I'd buy the one that showed the woodturner cared enough to remove ALL evidence of how the item was held on the lathe. I do that to all my turnings just as a matter of pride and if it takes me a couple more minutes to do so then that is time well spent in my opinion. YMMV.......... -- Regards, M.J. (Mike) Orr www.island.net/~morr |
#101
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On 11 May 2005 23:28:58 -0700, "robo hippy" wrote:
Properly finished???? Oh, you mean doing it the same way that you do it. I have offered bowls with the mortice remaining, and with it removed. The deciding factors, are shape, color, and character of the wood. Price is some what of a factor, but never has the way the bottom was finished had an influence on choice. If both are clean, sanded and finished (no tear out left), and the shapes are the same, it makes almost no difference to the buyer. If I remove the mortice, I have to charge more. If they look the same, but one costs more, which one would you buy? robo hippy my "research" indicates that things like bottom treatment, wall thickness, even walls, etc. are mainly important to another turner.. and you don't sell bowls to a turner.. *g* In my personal experience, folks are attracted to color, shape, general appearance and feel... they don't seem to notice what the bottom of the bowl looks like, providing it allows the bowl to sit flat and has been sanded and finished to match the rest of the bowl.. I talked to a turned at a fair that thought that the bottom treatment and finish that he's taken years to perfect seemed to be more of a detriment to sales, as it not only adds to the price, but folks didn't seem to get the "hand made" feeling from them.. (I thought that they were fantastic, almost works of art in simple walnut bowls, but didn't buy anything) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#102
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"mac davis" wrote in message ... my "research" indicates that things like bottom treatment, wall thickness, even walls, etc. are mainly important to another turner.. and you don't sell bowls to a turner.. *g* Personally, I like the gal on Wood Central who burns bison silhouettes into her platters. I think we turners should adopt burned bison as the new "standard of excellence...." |
#103
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M.J. wrote in message on Thursday 12 May
2005 12:59 pm: Simple. I'd buy the one that showed the woodturner cared enough to remove ALL evidence of how the item was held on the lathe. I do that to all my turnings just as a matter of pride and if it takes me a couple more minutes to do so then that is time well spent in my opinion. YMMV.......... I agree that it doesn't take a whole lot of time to do this and I think it adds to the appearance of the piece. What I don't see is the sense of making a religious war out of it. While I, personally, prefer a finished bowl bottom, I am not a customer. I repeat: I am not a customer. I bring practical experience to that perception. A customer, however, brings a checkbook. That means that we will each have different standards for excellence. I think that a customer sees a dovetail recess as a design element and evaluates it on that basis. Some like them, some don't. Sometimes the dovetail works into the design of the bowl. Other times it sticks out like a sore thumb. It should, I think, be neatly finished simply because anything less would look, to my eyes, incomplete. But that is my opinion and you are entitled to disagree. If I were to set out a half-dozen bowls with the dovetail and a half-dozen similar bowls without it and watched the bowls with the dovetail sell at least as well as those without, my days of bottom finishing, except for personal use, would be over. Bill |
#104
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Oh Gad Arch, not again!
Gorgeous bowl bottoms that hide all evidence of how they were made are without which there is nothing. They are so admired and add so much to the beauty of turned wood bowls as do the backs or bottoms of a Vermeer painting, a Revere pitcher, A Mozart symphony, a Wallace spoon, a Wedgewood cup, or a Rodin sculpture. Those lazy artists had no pride of back or bottom. Little wonder their works are worthless today. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#105
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Arch wrote:
Gorgeous bowl bottoms that hide all evidence of how they were made are without which there is nothing. They are so admired and add so much to the beauty of turned wood bowls as do the backs or bottoms of a Vermeer painting, a Revere pitcher, A Mozart symphony, a Wallace spoon, a Wedgewood cup, or a Rodin sculpture. Those lazy artists had no pride of back or bottom. Little wonder their works are worthless today. Troll! I bet that those items which are designed to be picked up are finished adequately on the their bases. Probably not to the same level of design or surface quality as the rest of the object, but good enough so as not to detract in any way from the users enjoyment of the overall work. There is something about wooden bowls that make people pick them up and look, and feel, underneath. On many designs the feel of the underside is important to the overall enjoyment of the piece. If I were making an exhibition piece that was to be kept in a glass cabinet (I wish) then maybe I wouldn't worry about leaving the coarse ugly dovetail on the bottom, because only me and the curator will know it is there, but every little bowl that is going to be picked up and fondled is going to feel good all over. People like nice bottoms. They like feeling them too. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#106
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Derek Andrews,
Your pejorative opinion of what has long been almost a conditioned knee-kick response on my part about bowl bottoms surprised me. I presumed, in error, that most here sighed and expected my usual benign response. Regardless, I thought my first sentence made that clear. Certainly my "troll!" if that it be, was not directed at you, whom I had counted a web friend. Perhaps I misunderstand the meaning of "troll!", but I wonder if others beside you link my style with the past posts referred to as trolls and I'm the last to know. If so, somebody please say so and spare me the embarrassment of continuing. I wish you only the best and retain the right to disagree without being disagreeable. I didn't realize that my post was disagreeable, but I didn't mention 'foot fetish'. Even I know that's a "troll!". Archie McCallister, Stuart, Fla. |
#107
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#108
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Arch, my most sincere apologies. I meant absolutely no offense; perhaps
troll!-) would have better conveyed my intent. I was certainly smiling when I wrote it, and would have been if we had been having a face to face conversation, which I hope one day we might. If I had considered your post a true troll, I would have just ignored it, the best and only way to handle those people. If they wish to waste time let it be their time and no one else's. Your posts are always thought provoking and last night you set me off in a slightly new direction for which I am as ever grateful. So please keep those posts coming. I realise now that I should have chosen my word better, so once again my utmost apologies for causing you of all people any offence. warmest regards Derek Arch wrote: Derek Andrews, Your pejorative opinion of what has long been almost a conditioned knee-kick response on my part about bowl bottoms surprised me. I presumed, in error, that most here sighed and expected my usual benign response. Regardless, I thought my first sentence made that clear. Certainly my "troll!" if that it be, was not directed at you, whom I had counted a web friend. Perhaps I misunderstand the meaning of "troll!", but I wonder if others beside you link my style with the past posts referred to as trolls and I'm the last to know. If so, somebody please say so and spare me the embarrassment of continuing. I wish you only the best and retain the right to disagree without being disagreeable. I didn't realize that my post was disagreeable, but I didn't mention 'foot fetish'. Even I know that's a "troll!". Archie McCallister, Stuart, Fla. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#109
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For me, the 'religious war'here isn't about how to finish bowl bottoms, it is about respecting, and not insulting another turners style. As far as some of us, but not all are concerned, my turnings are 'properly finisned'. I am very pasionate about my work. Don't tell me that I don't care enough. I have a great deal of pride in the qulity and appearance of my work. If I didn't, I would have let those comments slide. robo hippy Derek Andrews wrote: Arch wrote: Gorgeous bowl bottoms that hide all evidence of how they were made are without which there is nothing. They are so admired and add so much to the beauty of turned wood bowls as do the backs or bottoms of a Vermeer painting, a Revere pitcher, A Mozart symphony, a Wallace spoon, a Wedgewood cup, or a Rodin sculpture. Those lazy artists had no pride of back or bottom. Little wonder their works are worthless today. Troll! I bet that those items which are designed to be picked up are finished adequately on the their bases. Probably not to the same level of design or surface quality as the rest of the object, but good enough so as not to detract in any way from the users enjoyment of the overall work. There is something about wooden bowls that make people pick them up and look, and feel, underneath. On many designs the feel of the underside is important to the overall enjoyment of the piece. If I were making an exhibition piece that was to be kept in a glass cabinet (I wish) then maybe I wouldn't worry about leaving the coarse ugly dovetail on the bottom, because only me and the curator will know it is there, but every little bowl that is going to be picked up and fondled is going to feel good all over. People like nice bottoms. They like feeling them too. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#110
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On Thu, 12 May 2005 20:10:24 -0400, (Arch) wrote:
Oh Gad Arch, not again! Gorgeous bowl bottoms that hide all evidence of how they were made are without which there is nothing. They are so admired and add so much to the beauty of turned wood bowls as do the backs or bottoms of a Vermeer painting, a Revere pitcher, A Mozart symphony, a Wallace spoon, a Wedgewood cup, or a Rodin sculpture. Those lazy artists had no pride of back or bottom. Little wonder their works are worthless today. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings hey Arch.. don't you worry sometimes about sticking your tongue THROUGH your cheek? roflmao. You've made my morning a little brighter and added a lil' culture to the group today, Arch.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#111
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On Fri, 13 May 2005 01:34:10 GMT, Derek Andrews
wrote: snip People like nice bottoms. They like feeling them too. damned right!!! but what's that got to do with bowls?? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#112
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Derek, as Stuart brightened with the onset of daylight, so did my view
of our tempest in a weed pot. Your explanation is heartily accepted and I offer mine in return. Yesterday, I lost my little turning pal of 12 years, my beloved mini-schnauzer and admittedly I was grieving and not myself. My most admired professor & chief used the Socratic method to teach and I have always tried to emulate him. This way may not fit a ng format too well, but I'll forego the cup of hemlock. Not to start a premptive bottom finishing jihad, but I figure that most people inspect the bottoms of objects to see who made them and when, instead of for visual or tactile gratification. That's more for tops and sides. Those who care check for makers' and guild marks and confirm the materials used, purity etc. We all hope to find a sterling silver piece in the two-bit bin, but most buyers of our turnings aren't looking for a pink ivory bowl turned by a master, altho some of them left tool and holding marks. An ugly bottom turns off turners and public alike, but this isn't what we of lesser pride promote. It's now time for the obligatory, "Let's all get back to turning". All best, Arch Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#113
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"Bill C." wrote in message ... M.J. wrote in message on Thursday 12 May 2005 12:59 pm: Simple. I'd buy the one that showed the woodturner cared enough to remove ALL evidence of how the item was held on the lathe. I do that to all my turnings just as a matter of pride and if it takes me a couple more minutes to do so then that is time well spent in my opinion. YMMV.......... I agree that it doesn't take a whole lot of time to do this and I think it adds to the appearance of the piece. What I don't see is the sense of making a religious war out of it. While I, personally, prefer a finished bowl bottom, I am not a customer. I repeat: I am not a customer. I bring practical experience to that perception. A customer, however, brings a checkbook. That means that we will each have different standards for excellence. I think that a customer sees a dovetail recess as a design element and evaluates it on that basis. Some like them, some don't. Sometimes the dovetail works into the design of the bowl. Other times it sticks out like a sore thumb. It should, I think, be neatly finished simply because anything less would look, to my eyes, incomplete. But that is my opinion and you are entitled to disagree. If I were to set out a half-dozen bowls with the dovetail and a half-dozen similar bowls without it and watched the bowls with the dovetail sell at least as well as those without, my days of bottom finishing, except for personal use, would be over. Bill So if you could get away with producing and selling what even you consider to be an inferior product ....you would??? Hmmm I wouldn't Bill......... I think the art/craft deserves the BEST product that one can produce......... Sadly others in this thread very obviously disagree with me..... -- Regards, M.J. (Mike) Orr www.island.net/~morr |
#114
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A year or so ago there was a post about incorporating the dove-tail recess
into the design of the bowl. Someone mentioned they glue a penny of the current year into the recess. Perhaps a quarter would provide a better fit. The turner would then see what year the piece was made as would the customer while at the same time increasing the value of the bowl. -Kevin "Bill C." wrote in message ... I think that a customer sees a dovetail recess as a design element and evaluates it on that basis. Some like them, some don't. Sometimes the dovetail works into the design of the bowl. Other times it sticks out like a sore thumb. It should, I think, be neatly finished simply because anything less would look, to my eyes, incomplete. But that is my opinion and you are entitled to disagree. |
#115
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Since my Stronghold #2 jaws require about 2 3/8" minimum recess ( I usually
do a little bigger so I can measure the bottom depth with calipers between the jaws) I might need an as-yet undeveloped $5 or $10 coin. "Kevin" wrote in message ... A year or so ago there was a post about incorporating the dove-tail recess into the design of the bowl. Someone mentioned they glue a penny of the current year into the recess. Perhaps a quarter would provide a better fit. The turner would then see what year the piece was made as would the customer while at the same time increasing the value of the bowl. -Kevin "Bill C." wrote in message ... I think that a customer sees a dovetail recess as a design element and evaluates it on that basis. Some like them, some don't. Sometimes the dovetail works into the design of the bowl. Other times it sticks out like a sore thumb. It should, I think, be neatly finished simply because anything less would look, to my eyes, incomplete. But that is my opinion and you are entitled to disagree. |
#116
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In article ,
"Kevin" wrote: Perhaps a quarter would provide a better fit. The turner would then see what year the piece was made as would the customer while at the same time increasing the value of the bowl. Perhaps a Euro would be a better choice... ) |
#117
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"Kevin" wrote in message ... A year or so ago there was a post about incorporating the dove-tail recess into the design of the bowl. Someone mentioned they glue a penny of the current year into the recess. Perhaps a quarter would provide a better fit. The turner would then see what year the piece was made as would the customer while at the same time increasing the value of the bowl. I'd have to double the price! I did put our state quarter in some the first year of issue. It's a nice touch on a salad set given as a wedding present. |
#118
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On Fri, 13 May 2005 12:11:57 -0700, Kevin wrote
(in message ): A year or so ago there was a post about incorporating the dove-tail recess into the design of the bowl. Someone mentioned they glue a penny of the current year into the recess. Perhaps a quarter would provide a better fit. The turner would then see what year the piece was made as would the customer while at the same time increasing the value of the bowl. LOL! am i the only one who read this as a jab? http://neillswoodturning.myphotoalbum.com/ |
#119
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"neill" wrote in message ... On Fri, 13 May 2005 12:11:57 -0700, Kevin wrote (in message ): A year or so ago there was a post about incorporating the dove-tail recess into the design of the bowl. Someone mentioned they glue a penny of the current year into the recess. Perhaps a quarter would provide a better fit. The turner would then see what year the piece was made as would the customer while at the same time increasing the value of the bowl. LOL! am i the only one who read this as a jab? Honi soit qui mal y pense |
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Arch wrote:
Oh Gad Arch, not again! Gorgeous bowl bottoms that hide all evidence of how they were made are without which there is nothing. They are so admired and add so much to the beauty of turned wood bowls as do the backs or bottoms of a Vermeer painting, a Revere pitcher, A Mozart symphony, a Wallace spoon, a Wedgewood cup, or a Rodin sculpture. Those lazy artists had no pride of back or bottom. Little wonder their works are worthless today. Jolly good showing ol' bean. Hereby promoted to the prestigious rank of COC 1st Class, with all rights, privileges and honors incumbent upon that office. Congratulations! ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller http://www.alaska.net/~atftb Juneau, Alaska |
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