Garage door repair
 

I have a garage door with a wooden frame. It's about 30 years old and
the bottom 6" of the frame have rotted at either side.

Is it's quite a major task to replace the frame I wish to do a swift
repair, something that'll last for another 5 or 10 years and look
cosmetically acceptable.

I thought about removing the bottom portion with a handsaw and fitting
a new piece of timber. Unfortunately, there is a metal strip screwed
to the back that also supports the door!

Has anyone got any clever ideas for cutting the wood without removing
the metal?

I'd thought of simply screwing an 'L' profile metal/plastic extrusion
over the top of the rotted portion. Any gotchas with taking this
approach?

s

Has anyone got any clever ideas for cutting the wood without removing
the metal?

Not sure if this is useful in your situation...

If you can find a straight path with no screws on the line you want to
cut you might be able to take the door off the hinges and use a cicular
saw (blade at 90deg & depth carfully set an mm or two above the metal!)
with a sawboard as a guide (see http://tinyurl.com/5zys3) then finish
the rest with a floorboard saw or similar.

HTH,

Alex

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 12:06:44 +0100, AlexW
wrote:


Has anyone got any clever ideas for cutting the wood without removing
the metal?

Not sure if this is useful in your situation...

If you can find a straight path with no screws on the line you want to
cut you might be able to take the door off the hinges and use a cicular
saw (blade at 90deg & depth carfully set an mm or two above the metal!)
with a sawboard as a guide (see http://tinyurl.com/5zys3) then finish
the rest with a floorboard saw or similar.

The garage door is similar to the up-and-over one he

http://repairshandbook.oxford.gov.uk...oorsframes.gif

The only difference is that I have springs where the picture shows
counterweights.

Screwed to the back of the wooden frame (As viewed from the outside)
are metal supports for the door itself. These go right down to the
floor and also act as a "stop" to prevent the door swinging inwards
past the closed position.

This makes it very difficult to remove the bottom few inches of the
frame, which has rotted.

s

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 12:06:44 +0100, AlexW
wrote:


Has anyone got any clever ideas for cutting the wood without removing
the metal?

Not sure if this is useful in your situation...

If you can find a straight path with no screws on the line you want to
cut you might be able to take the door off the hinges and use a cicular
saw (blade at 90deg & depth carfully set an mm or two above the metal!)
with a sawboard as a guide (see http://tinyurl.com/5zys3) then finish
the rest with a floorboard saw or similar.


The garage door is similar to the up-and-over one he

http://repairshandbook.oxford.gov.uk...oorsframes.gif

The only difference is that I have springs where the picture shows
counterweights.

Screwed to the back of the wooden frame (As viewed from the outside)
are metal supports for the door itself. These go right down to the
floor and also act as a "stop" to prevent the door swinging inwards
past the closed position.

This makes it very difficult to remove the bottom few inches of the
frame, which has rotted.

s

I assume that you mean that the frame goes around the timber as shown in
the section below (looking top down, timber = #, metal = +).

++++ +++++
+################################################# #####+
++++ +++++

Or just up the sides?

+################################################# #####+
++++ +++++

If they are on the back only I am not sure why you cannot cut from the
front as described earlier and unscrew the screws that need taking out?
The idea being that you use the height setting of the circ. saw to avoid
hitting the metat supports. See poorly drawn illustration below.

=============
==========
=============
#############| |#################
#############\ /#################
###############-----###################
#######################################
++++ ++++

The saw board (which you need to knock up) is clamped to the face of the
door and provides an accurate guide for cutting. The door itself would
need to be taken off or secured into a suitable safe working position.

Maybe I have the wrong end of the stick?

Alex

In article , "s--p--o--n--i--
x" says...
I have a garage door with a wooden frame. It's about 30 years old and
the bottom 6" of the frame have rotted at either side.

Is it's quite a major task to replace the frame I wish to do a swift
repair, something that'll last for another 5 or 10 years and look
cosmetically acceptable.

I thought about removing the bottom portion with a handsaw and fitting
a new piece of timber. Unfortunately, there is a metal strip screwed
to the back that also supports the door!

Has anyone got any clever ideas for cutting the wood without removing
the metal?

I think it's called a chisel ;^

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 16:16:13 +0100, AlexW
wrote:

I assume that you mean that the frame goes around the timber as shown in
the section below (looking top down, timber = #, metal = +).

Each post is like this (Cross sectional view, looking down from the
top):


OUTSIDE

##
##+++++++++++ ___________________ _ _
##+++++++++++ |
##+++++++++++ | DOOR (CLOSED)
##+++++++++++ |
##+++++++++++ |___________________ _ _
##=============
##
##

INSIDE


Where ## is brickwork, == is metal and ++ is wooden post.

I suppose I could use a chisel but it will be a pig of a job as the
post is a little loose and the resulting cut will probably be uneven.

s

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 16:16:13 +0100, AlexW
wrote:


I assume that you mean that the frame goes around the timber as shown in
the section below (looking top down, timber = #, metal = +).


Each post is like this (Cross sectional view, looking down from the
top):


OUTSIDE

##
##+++++++++++ ___________________ _ _
##+++++++++++ |
##+++++++++++ | DOOR (CLOSED)
##+++++++++++ |
##+++++++++++ |___________________ _ _
##=============
##
##

INSIDE


Where ## is brickwork, == is metal and ++ is wooden post.

I suppose I could use a chisel but it will be a pig of a job as the
post is a little loose and the resulting cut will probably be uneven.

s


Ahhh ... I was thinking of the timber frame which is part of the door
.... clearly had the wrong end of the stick (post) ... sorry.

Would it look naff or effect the workings if the metal bit == was sawn
off as well with a guided hacksaw?

Otherwise it looks like drills & chisels.

If you decide to chisel it might be worth doing at 45 degrees from front
to back which would probably look a bit neater and make screwing on a
new section a little easier. Probably an easier working angle too.

Alex.