My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both ends of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem (500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most appreciated...
Mal

Mali explained on 13/03/2005 :
When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both ends of
where the halogen bulb sits?

No, it should not be live at both ends. Live means the neon would light
up. It should not light if on either a nuetral or the earth.

Several possibilities....

1. It is inhinited from coming on during daylight plus you have perhaps
crossed over the live and nuetral wires.

2. It has the nuetral connection missing.

3. You have failed to insert the lamp properly in its holders.

4. The unit itself is faulty

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

Mali wrote:
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.
sniop
If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem (500watts
is overkill really)..

A small number of bulbs don't work when plugged in.
You can't get 150W bulbs for that size of light, I think the smallest in
that length is 300W.
You might try returning the 500W light "doesn't work" and buying a 150W one.
Does it click when power is supplied to it, or when something moves in front
of it?
(this is not foolproof).
Take an inspection light, or similar, and wire it where the 500W flood is,
to check the mains is functional.

"Mali" wrote in message
. uk...
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it
up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb
and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather
there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity
going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both ends
of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Mal




see reply in free.uk.diy.home

FGS, don't touch both ends! it should light up touching one end.

Make sure the bulb is properly fitted, they are a bit tricky to get seated
correctly. And either use a cloth or wipe it with meths before turning it
on.

I've fitted a few, and it generally has been the bulb not quite seated
correctly.


"Mali" wrote in message
. uk...
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it
up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb
and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather
there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity
going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both ends
of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Mal

"Mali" wrote in message
. uk...
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it
up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb
and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather
there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity
going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both ends
of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Mal


When it is fixed I hope you will aim it downward. Near where I live people
seem to think they should be mounted so that the beam is horizontal - thin
means that 50% of the light is wasted. Please keep the light on your own
property and avoid the usual annoyance.

Thanks for replying

Are all the adjustors(?) correctly set, i.e. the 'on' time and darkness
control.

All the adjusters are set on test mode. according to the neon screwdriver,
power is getting to the bulb


If your neon lit up at both ends of your bulb (lamp) then you are probably
missing the neutral return.

I have check and re-checked, the neutral is connected..

If in any doubt about what you are looking at seek help, neon testers can
be
very misleading as they light up with tiny leakage currents.

It very odd? so to make sure I understand, power is sent to the bulb via the
LIVE wire from one end of the bulbthrough bulband then exited out via
other end of the bulb using NEUTRAL wire?? if so should the neon screwdriver
light up when I use it to test both ends of the bulb?

I really appreciate all the help, (before I electrocute myself tomorrow)...


"Peter Andrews" wrote in message
. uk...

"Mali" wrote in message
. uk...
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it
up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb
and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather
there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had
a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity
going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the
main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both
ends
of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Mal




see reply in free.uk.diy.home

On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:12:59 GMT, "Mali"
strung together this:

It very odd? so to make sure I understand, power is sent to the bulb via the
LIVE wire from one end of the bulbthrough bulband then exited out via
other end of the bulb using NEUTRAL wire?? if so should the neon screwdriver
light up when I use it to test both ends of the bulb?

That's because you've wired it up wrong. Leave it alone and call
someone out before you kill yourself and your family.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

Thanks for replying

1. It is inhinited from coming on during daylight plus you have perhaps
crossed over the live and nuetral wires.

2. It has the nuetral connection missing.

I have made sure that the wires are not crossed and that all the wires are
conected...very puzzling??

3. You have failed to insert the lamp properly in its holders.

Tried 2 different bulbs, definlt inserting them properly..

4. The unit itself is faulty

I tested the light with a direct link to a power socket, so cant be
faulty...

what else could I try???


"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...
Mali explained on 13/03/2005 :
When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both
ends of
where the halogen bulb sits?

No, it should not be live at both ends. Live means the neon would light
up. It should not light if on either a nuetral or the earth.

Several possibilities....

1. It is inhinited from coming on during daylight plus you have perhaps
crossed over the live and nuetral wires.

2. It has the nuetral connection missing.

3. You have failed to insert the lamp properly in its holders.

4. The unit itself is faulty

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

Thanks for replying!!

It uses a small 3 inch Halogen bulb which comes in 500/150 watts (according
to the instructions). The sound whats so ever when the power is turned on,
or when franticaly waving my hand at it trying to get it to work

Take an inspection light, or similar, and wire it where the 500W flood is,
to check the mains is functional

Like a small lamp if I take the plug off..


A small number of bulbs don't work when plugged in.
You can't get 150W bulbs for that size of light, I think the smallest in
that length is 300W.
You might try returning the 500W light "doesn't work" and buying a 150W
one.
Does it click when power is supplied to it, or when something moves in
front
of it?
(this is not foolproof).
Take an inspection light, or similar, and wire it where the 500W flood is,
to check the mains is functional.


"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Mali wrote:
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.
sniop
If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

A small number of bulbs don't work when plugged in.
You can't get 150W bulbs for that size of light, I think the smallest in
that length is 300W.
You might try returning the 500W light "doesn't work" and buying a 150W
one.
Does it click when power is supplied to it, or when something moves in
front
of it?
(this is not foolproof).
Take an inspection light, or similar, and wire it where the 500W flood is,
to check the mains is functional.

The bulb is definatly visibly seated..

"Andrew" wrote in message
k...
FGS, don't touch both ends! it should light up touching one end.

Make sure the bulb is properly fitted, they are a bit tricky to get seated
correctly. And either use a cloth or wipe it with meths before turning it
on.

I've fitted a few, and it generally has been the bulb not quite seated
correctly.


"Mali" wrote in message
. uk...
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it
up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb
and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather
there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had
a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity
going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the
main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both
ends
of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Mal

yes..I know what you mean...

"John" wrote in message
...

"Mali" wrote in message
. uk...
My kids were playing football in the garden and accidentally hit our
external flood light with sensor and damaged it. So I purchased one of
those
standard square flood light with a sensor underneath.. It came with a
500watt Halogen Bulb.

The electricity that is used for the flood light is shared with 6 other
inside lights all using 60watt bulbs.

So following the instructions, I fixed the bracket on the wall, wired it
up,
stuck the bulb in and turned on the electricity. The new light would not
turn on. so I checked all the wiring, even purchased a new 500watt bulb
and
still nothing.

I then purchased one of those neon screw drivers used to test weather
there
is electricity going through, and used it to touch each end, where the
halogen bulb sits and it lit up meaning that there was electricity going
through.

Why wont the light come on? The previous light that the kids damaged had
a
150watt Halogen bulb. Could it be that there is not enough electricity
going
in to light up the 500watt bulb? If this was that case, wouldn't the
main
fuse for the flood light automatically shut off?

When using the neon screwdriver should it light up when I touch both
ends
of
where the halogen bulb sits?

If I purchased 150watt Halogen bulb, would this remedy the problem
(500watts
is overkill really)..

Please help, I don't know what to do.. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Mal


When it is fixed I hope you will aim it downward. Near where I live people
seem to think they should be mounted so that the beam is horizontal - thin
means that 50% of the light is wasted. Please keep the light on your own
property and avoid the usual annoyance.

"John" wrote in
:



When it is fixed I hope you will aim it downward. Near where I live
people seem to think they should be mounted so that the beam is
horizontal - thin means that 50% of the light is wasted. Please keep
the light on your own property and avoid the usual annoyance.


Hear, hear.

And 500 watts is a bit of a killer if you're the one who's getting it in
the eyes. ;-((

mike

After serious thinking Mali wrote :
It very odd? so to make sure I understand, power is sent to the bulb via the
LIVE wire from one end of the bulbthrough bulband then exited out via
other end of the bulb using NEUTRAL wire?? if so should the neon screwdriver
light up when I use it to test both ends of the bulb?

It should be something like this:-

L___________/ _______o--------o____________N
sensor lamp
switch

Your test with the neon would seem to indicate that the N (nuetral) is
not connected, or that there is an internal break somewhere.

The way it works is that the PIR is triggered which connects the live
to one end of the tube, the live then flows through the tube to the
nuetral. So the end of the tube should only normally be live when the
switch is closed, however there is an exception. Some PIR's derive
their supply to operate by being in series with the lamp.

The other odd point, is that the PIR sensor seems to be working, or you
would not see a live at one end of the lamp. The PIR sensor requires a
nuetral to be able to work. Not conclusive, but can you hear a relay
clicking as you trigger the PIR?

In a different thread you suggested you had checked the whole unit on
the ground, which would seem to eliminate a fault in the unit itself.
All put together this would seem to indicate there might well be a
break in the nuetral of the cable feeding the light up on the wall.
Could you perhaps try an ordinary bulb, lampholder and flex connected
in place of the combined PIR and lamp unit? If this lights up, then you
have at least proven you have a live and neutral going to the above
point.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

Harry Bloomfield expressed precisely :
It should be something like this:-

L___________/ _______o--------o____________N
sensor lamp
switch

Just to make sure, the lamp is the o-----o symbol

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

In article ,
Ian Stirling writes:

A small number of bulbs don't work when plugged in.
You can't get 150W bulbs for that size of light, I think the smallest in
that length is 300W.

There's a 200W one also, but it's hard to find.
GE also do a 225W (or something around that) with an infra-red
reflective coating which gives same light as a 300W, and similarly
a 375W (or something around that) which is same output as a 500W.

You might try returning the 500W light "doesn't work" and buying a 150W one.
Does it click when power is supplied to it, or when something moves in front
of it?
(this is not foolproof).
Take an inspection light, or similar, and wire it where the 500W flood is,
to check the mains is functional.

I think the best advice for someone who can't diagnose a non-working
light really is to call an electrician, sorry.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:18:57 +0000, Mali wrote:

Thanks for replying

Could you make up your mind wether you are going to top post or bottom
post, so far you have done both.

Dave

On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:12:59 GMT, "Mali" wrote:

I have check and re-checked, the neutral is connected..

Do you get the neon lighting up at both ends when the bulb is not
connected (suggesting a miswiring where L and N are both going to live)
or only when the bulb is in (suggesting, like everybody else, that N is
o/c).
--
On-line canal route planner: http://www.canalplan.org.uk

(Waterways World site of the month, April 2001)