Changing a loo!
 

On gutting a room, will be ripping out existing loo & sink and
replacing.

Currently, look fixed on floor. I plan to remove everything, leaving
waste-pipe poking through floor, then board/tile the floor, then
install new loo on the new tiles.

Now - I've never replaced a loo before...!

The waste pipe looks "standard" - and the loo has some plastic ducting
from the base to the "permament" waste downpipe. Assume this just
comes apart and leaves the wastepipe sticking up. And assume this is a
standard size...! (House is c. 1991)

The pipe is close to the wall - about 75mm from CENTRE of pipe to the
wall. (e.g. pipe is perhaps 5-10mm from wall)

Planning to replace with http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/1350-13286
(dimensions he http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/images/pwis0801t.gif )

From my interpretation of this plan, this will fit quite nicely onto
the existing waste pipe. The dimensions mention 102 bore soil pipe -
so assume this is the standard fitting.

And I assume everything will just plug in and work.


Now I like learning on the job - but are there any gotcha's or "DOH's"
that I need to be aware of - or is replacing a loo like falling off a
ladder (ahem)

Thanks

RJ

wrote:
On gutting a room, will be ripping out existing loo & sink and
replacing.

Now - I've never replaced a loo before...!


I've done 3 - MOST important tool is a piece of piece of black plastic
- approx 15 inches diameter, and some tape.

Take the old loo off and tape the plastic over the hole - stops the
pong.


And I assume everything will just plug in and work.


I would expect so. The couplers have multiple seals and do a 98% job on
first fit. They also don't require to the mm accuracy.


Now I like learning on the job - but are there any gotcha's or
"DOH's"
that I need to be aware of

DON'T try to re-use the couplers. This is not for any technical reason,
but the spaces between the seals will be (literally) full of old sh*t.
I strongly suggest that the old one is wrapped securely in a bag (check
that it doesn't have 'child-friendly breathing holes' first)
immediately on removal. Your stomach may be stronger than mine, but I
considered the =A35 (?) very good value, in exchange for not cleaning
the old one !

Keep us posted & good luck,
M=2E

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
wrote:


Now I like learning on the job - but are there any gotcha's or
"DOH's"
that I need to be aware of - or is replacing a loo like falling off
a
ladder (ahem)


Go for it, I've just done similar.


Yes. All loo joints always leak.

Some might leak sometimes.


Invest in quantities of coffee, tranquillisers and silicone mastic.

Lot's of tea, none of the others.

Mine was also a first time loo change. replacing the original in a 1973
house. Buy one of every shape and size of pan connector and extension
piece from B&Q and keep the reciept. Look up "pan connector" on the
screwfix site to see some examples. They just push together and mine
don't leak. When your done, take back what you didn't use and get a
full refund.

MBQ

wrote:
wrote:
On gutting a room, will be ripping out existing loo & sink and
replacing.

Now - I've never replaced a loo before...!


I've done 3 - MOST important tool is a piece of piece of black
plastic
- approx 15 inches diameter, and some tape.

Take the old loo off and tape the plastic over the hole - stops the
pong.


Cling film and elastic bands worked in my case.


DON'T try to re-use the couplers. This is not for any technical
reason,
but the spaces between the seals will be (literally) full of old
sh*t.

I was surprised at how clean everything was. I did use a good dose of
bleach and a flushed a few times before I started.

MBQ

All good advice and taken on board.

Biggest problem (for loo and sink/taps/shower/shower tray) is knowing
what they give you in the box!

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
wrote:

All good advice and taken on board.

Biggest problem (for loo and sink/taps/shower/shower tray) is
knowing
what they give you in the box!

Mostly a load of plastic washers that don't seal. Silicone is your
friend. Discard all plastic washers.

.... and buy a tub of 'Plumbers Mait' (spelling correct, dispite first
impressions!). Its a 'doesn't stick to your hands, sticks to itself,
non-hardening, sealant'. (I'm sure someone will leap in with technical
terms)

Magic stuff. (IMO)

M.

... and buy a tub of 'Plumbers Mait' (spelling correct, dispite first
impressions!). Its a 'doesn't stick to your hands, sticks to itself,
non-hardening, sealant'. (I'm sure someone will leap in with technical
terms)

I've never managed to get it to do anything useful, though. After several
attempts, I usually remove all traces of mait and empty a tube of silicon
into the joint and bung it all together. I don't care if this isn't the
"correct way", it works every time!

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
... and buy a tub of 'Plumbers Mait' (spelling correct, dispite first
impressions!). Its a 'doesn't stick to your hands, sticks to itself,
non-hardening, sealant'. (I'm sure someone will leap in with technical
terms)


I've never managed to get it to do anything useful, though. After several
attempts, I usually remove all traces of mait and empty a tube of silicon
into the joint and bung it all together. I don't care if this isn't the
"correct way", it works every time!

Christian.


What are you guys doing? I've never had to use any kind of sealing
compound to connect a bog and I've done quite a few
Getting back OP's post, if waste pipe is coming vertically out of floor
then the type of bog shown in the pic may be difficult/impossible to fit.
Often they have a bar of ceramic across the back which is in the way of
the pipe. i.e. they are really designed for where the pipe is coming
horizontally out of a wall. Some pros angle-grind the ceramic bit off
but I wouldn't risk it.
Even if it can be fitted with e.g. 90deg bend it may be the wrong
distance from the wall for the cistern to screwed to it without a wooden
spacer which looks naff and then the bog door will hit the pan.
For this situation you can't beat looking/measuring the location, then
going to plumbers merchants at looking what they have that might work.

What are you guys doing? I've never had to use any kind of sealing
compound to connect a bog and I've done quite a few

Clearly you buy better quality stuff than I. When I've bought a toilet or
Belfast sink, the mouldings have been less than precise in their dimensions
and smoothness. No washer in the world would seal on some of those
connections without help.

Note that I've never had to put any around the soil pipe exit. The pan
connector has always been sufficient. However, the flush pipe to pan
connection has given me problems, as has connecting the waste to a Belfast
sink, with very visible undulations on the mating surface (i.e. 2mm or so).

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

What are you guys doing? I've never had to use any kind of sealing
compound to connect a bog and I've done quite a few


Clearly you buy better quality stuff than I. When I've bought a toilet or
Belfast sink, the mouldings have been less than precise in their dimensions
and smoothness. No washer in the world would seal on some of those
connections without help.

Note that I've never had to put any around the soil pipe exit. The pan
connector has always been sufficient. However, the flush pipe to pan
connection has given me problems, as has connecting the waste to a Belfast
sink, with very visible undulations on the mating surface (i.e. 2mm or so).

Christian.


My experience too. And if there is any mislaignment in the loo to soil
pipoe, you often need sealer there too.