Moving socket - options and regulations
 

I need to move a socket about 4 feet. The socket is on a ring circuit
and I can move one of the cables to the new position but for obvious
reasons the other won't reach. So I have a number of options:

1. Replace the cable that won't reach. Means finding the previous socket
on the ring and replacing from there.

2. Extend the cable that won't reach. I believe crimping is the correct way.

3. Take both cables and join using junction box under the floorboards.
Take spur off junction box to new socket position.

4. Keep existing socket and add new socket as a spur.


My thoughts on these options a

1. More work than the other options.

2. No crimping tool.

3. I like this one.

4. I don't want to keep the existing socket.


I like number 3 but the old "junction boxes must be accessible" argument
rears its ugly head. All the lighting in my house has been done this way
(not by me) with junction boxes under floorboards, underlay and carpet.

So how "legal" is my option 3 ?

Any other methods ?


Thanks,

Graham

"Graham Jones" wrote in message
...
I need to move a socket about 4 feet. The socket is on a ring circuit
and I can move one of the cables to the new position but for obvious
reasons the other won't reach. So I have a number of options:

1. Replace the cable that won't reach. Means finding the previous socket
on the ring and replacing from there.

2. Extend the cable that won't reach. I believe crimping is the correct
way.

3. Take both cables and join using junction box under the floorboards.
Take spur off junction box to new socket position.

4. Keep existing socket and add new socket as a spur.


My thoughts on these options a

1. More work than the other options.

2. No crimping tool.

3. I like this one.

4. I don't want to keep the existing socket.


I like number 3 but the old "junction boxes must be accessible" argument
rears its ugly head. All the lighting in my house has been done this way
(not by me) with junction boxes under floorboards, underlay and carpet.

So how "legal" is my option 3 ?

Any other methods ?


2 more options....

5) keep existing socket, move one cable to new socket, add new length of
cable back to original socket so that the ring is maintained. Obviously
you keep the existing socket in this scenario, but all nice & ring like,
so...

6) why not remove existing socket and relocate it in a position where the
cable will reach & is in a more useful/convenient for you, then add new
socket with one end of the ring & join the ring with new length of cable
back to relocated socket as in 5) above.



--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"Graham Jones" wrote in message
...
I need to move a socket about 4 feet. The socket is on a ring circuit
and I can move one of the cables to the new position but for obvious
reasons the other won't reach. So I have a number of options:

1. Replace the cable that won't reach. Means finding the previous socket
on the ring and replacing from there.

2. Extend the cable that won't reach. I believe crimping is the correct
way.

3. Take both cables and join using junction box under the floorboards.
Take spur off junction box to new socket position.

4. Keep existing socket and add new socket as a spur.


My thoughts on these options a

1. More work than the other options.

2. No crimping tool.

3. I like this one.

4. I don't want to keep the existing socket.


I like number 3 but the old "junction boxes must be accessible" argument
rears its ugly head. All the lighting in my house has been done this way
(not by me) with junction boxes under floorboards, underlay and carpet.

So how "legal" is my option 3 ?

AFAIK junction boxes are only deemed inaccessible if you've plastered over
them or similar.
Under floorboards are acceptable as you can get to them by lifting the
flooring and boards. Removing vast acres of plaster to find the buried
connection is quite another matter.

If, as you say one cable will reach the new position you only need one
junction box to extend the shorter leg to the new socket location. You will
then maintain the ring continuity though the socket.
..

Graham Jones wrote:

I like number 3 but the old "junction boxes must be accessible" argument
rears its ugly head. All the lighting in my house has been done this way
(not by me) with junction boxes under floorboards, underlay and carpet.

So how "legal" is my option 3 ?

Under a floor still counts as accessable... plastered into a wall does
not ;-)

You could even use two JBs is you want to make the new socket part of
the ring rather than a spur.

--
Cheers,

John.

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