Installing a radiator off-level
 

I'm wanting to put a radiator in beneath a window in my bathroom (or
rather I'm getting a plumber to do it). Being a somewhat, errrr
characterful house, the internal window cill is not level. If the
radiator *is* level, and is just below the cill, it looks awful,
because it highlights the fact that the cill is wonky.

I want the plumber to put the rad in so that its top is parallel with
the cill, and bugger the levels. However he is strongly advising
against this on the basis that it won't work, there'll be air locks,
etc. Is this right?? I can see no reason for great problems. So long
as the bleeding valve is at the higher end of the rad then any air
should be easily bled, and I can't see a problem.

Martin Pentreath wrote:
I'm wanting to put a radiator in beneath a window in my bathroom (or
rather I'm getting a plumber to do it). Being a somewhat, errrr
characterful house, the internal window cill is not level. If the
radiator *is* level, and is just below the cill, it looks awful,
because it highlights the fact that the cill is wonky.

I want the plumber to put the rad in so that its top is parallel with
the cill, and bugger the levels. However he is strongly advising
against this on the basis that it won't work, there'll be air locks,
etc. Is this right?? I can see no reason for great problems. So long
as the bleeding valve is at the higher end of the rad then any air
should be easily bled, and I can't see a problem.


It'll work fine as long as the bleed valve is at the higher end. Even if
it wasn't, it'd still work pretty well (you'd have some trapped air that
you can't remove, but nothing serious).


--
Grunff

On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 11:53:28 -0800, Martin Pentreath wrote:

I'm wanting to put a radiator in beneath a window in my bathroom (or
rather I'm getting a plumber to do it). Being a somewhat, errrr
characterful house, the internal window cill is not level. If the
radiator *is* level, and is just below the cill, it looks awful,
because it highlights the fact that the cill is wonky.

I want the plumber to put the rad in so that its top is parallel with
the cill, and bugger the levels. However he is strongly advising
against this on the basis that it won't work, there'll be air locks,
etc. Is this right?? I can see no reason for great problems. So long
as the bleeding valve is at the higher end of the rad then any air
should be easily bled, and I can't see a problem.

I'd agree with you.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

In message , Martin
Pentreath writes
I'm wanting to put a radiator in beneath a window in my bathroom (or
rather I'm getting a plumber to do it). Being a somewhat, errrr
characterful house, the internal window cill is not level. If the
radiator *is* level, and is just below the cill, it looks awful,
because it highlights the fact that the cill is wonky.

I want the plumber to put the rad in so that its top is parallel with
the cill, and bugger the levels. However he is strongly advising
against this on the basis that it won't work, there'll be air locks,
etc. Is this right?? I can see no reason for great problems. So long
as the bleeding valve is at the higher end of the rad then any air
should be easily bled, and I can't see a problem.

I can't see any problem either, get him to install it so it looks right,
with the bleed at the high end.

--
bof at bof dot me dot uk

"Martin Pentreath" wrote in message
om...
I'm wanting to put a radiator in beneath a window in my bathroom (or
rather I'm getting a plumber to do it). Being a somewhat, errrr
characterful house, the internal window cill is not level. If the
radiator *is* level, and is just below the cill, it looks awful,
because it highlights the fact that the cill is wonky.

I want the plumber to put the rad in so that its top is parallel with
the cill, and bugger the levels. However he is strongly advising
against this on the basis that it won't work, there'll be air locks,
etc. Is this right?? I can see no reason for great problems. So long
as the bleeding valve is at the higher end of the rad then any air
should be easily bled, and I can't see a problem.

It will probably be better as more air will be removed. But ensure inlet is
on the lowest side.