glow worm 24 ci combi boiler
just moved in to new'ish place, wall stat drayton does'nt click when heating on, water not getting very hot although radiators with stats working ok, temp and water set ok. 5 valves 4 isolating cocks underneath boiler any idea what position they should be in ?
a) HEATING FLOW b) DOMESTIC HOT WATER OUTLET (24ci Only) c) GAS SERVICE COCK d) COLD WATER INLET (24ci Only) e) HEATING RETURN |
Quote:
Hot water doesn't need one because shuting cold water also shuts it off. (water not getting very hot although radiators with stats working ok, temp and water set ok) This isn't clear to understand what you are saying. Which water domestic hot water from the tap or water in pipes serving radiators? Most room stats click, but if heating is coming on at all it is functioning (if it is in circuit at all, it may be an artefact from a previous system, the no volts interuptor connection in the combi may just as easily be jumped. With no knowledge of the history some elemntary tracing is required. |
just moved in to new'ish place, wall stat drayton does'nt click when
heating on, water not getting very hot although radiators with stats working ok, temp and water set ok. 5 valves 4 isolating cocks underneath boiler any idea what position they should be in ? So your problem is that the hot water from the tap isn't very hot? It might be related to the fact that you have a 24kW combi, which can only support a quite pathetic flow rate before the temperature starts dropping. Try running at more of a dribble to see if it gets hotter. Christian. |
"Christian McArdle" wrote in message et... just moved in to new'ish place, wall stat drayton does'nt click when heating on, water not getting very hot although radiators with stats working ok, temp and water set ok. 5 valves 4 isolating cocks underneath boiler any idea what position they should be in ? So your problem is that the hot water from the tap isn't very hot? It might be related to the fact that you have a 24kW combi, which can only support a quite pathetic flow rate before the temperature starts dropping. Try running at more of a dribble to see if it gets hotter. I don't know where the OP went, but based on the snipped part of this I suggest the problem with the stat may be that the Drayton needs a 240 volt supply for its electronics and the normal stat connection on the 24ci is low voltage. there is an option to use a 240 volt signal which requires an additional connector. Someone may have simply swapped a standard stat with an electronic type. Otherwise if the hot water performance is in doubt the answer is spot on. Restrict the flow rate to 2 gallons a minute and you should be within the boilers normal capability. The isolating cocks should all be set to "on" i.e. with the lever handles "along" the line of the pipe they are in. the yellow one is gas, blue cold mains inlet, both reds are heating flow and return |
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