How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

I bought a Fluidmaster bottom entry float valve to replace an old ball
valve in a toilet. While I was trying to tighten it onto the pipe
connection I didn't notice a fibre washer had deteriorated and was
bulging on one side, and as I tightened the connection it pushed the
valve thread out of alignment and caused me to slightly strip the
plastic thread. I managed to correctly rescrew everything after
replacing the washer, but now I can't get the connection tight enought
to stop it leaking. I've tried PTFE tape and Bosswhite, but it seems
to need so much force to tighten the nut to stop leaks that the other
end of the valve connection keeps unscrewing (where it enters the
cistern). I can't find anyway to get both ends of the valve to screw
in without leaking (to the cistern and to the water feed). I've
probably ruined the valve thread and should buy a new one, but is
there any way to fix it?

Thanks,

Ken

How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

On 1 Jun 2004 06:12:50 -0700, (Kooky45) wrote:

I bought a Fluidmaster bottom entry float valve to replace an old ball
valve in a toilet. While I was trying to tighten it onto the pipe
connection I didn't notice a fibre washer had deteriorated and was
bulging on one side, and as I tightened the connection it pushed the
valve thread out of alignment and caused me to slightly strip the
plastic thread. I managed to correctly rescrew everything after
replacing the washer, but now I can't get the connection tight enought
to stop it leaking. I've tried PTFE tape and Bosswhite, but it seems
to need so much force to tighten the nut to stop leaks that the other
end of the valve connection keeps unscrewing (where it enters the
cistern). I can't find anyway to get both ends of the valve to screw
in without leaking (to the cistern and to the water feed). I've
probably ruined the valve thread and should buy a new one, but is
there any way to fix it?

Thanks,

Ken


If you've wrecked the valve thread you're pretty much screwed if PTFE
tape won't fix it. Boss White won't help.

Have a look carefully at the opening of the valve where it seats
against the fibre washer and see if there is any plastic moulding
flash.If so, carefully trim off. I had one like that once.

The seat of the metal connector could be damaged so check that
carefully as well.

More than likely you will need a new valve. I've found the Torbeck
are more reliable than Fluidmaster.

When you refit, do not do up the nut that attaches the valve to the
base of the cistern - leave it loose. Now put the connector nut and
fibre washer (a new one) on the valve and tighten very carefully by
hand. Now do up the nut on the bottom of the cistern and finally
the connector nut, but only gently.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

I bought a Fluidmaster bottom entry float valve to replace an old ball
valve in a toilet.

Yeah. Plastic threads are crap, aren't they?

See if B&Q (or whoever) will take it back. Tell them it leaks, but don't
mention the stripped thread!

Christian.

How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

See if B&Q (or whoever) will take it back. Tell them it leaks, but don't
mention the stripped thread!

P.S. I once did exactly the same on exactly the same model valve...

Christian.

How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

Andy Hall wrote in message . ..
On 1 Jun 2004 06:12:50 -0700, (Kooky45) wrote:

I bought a Fluidmaster bottom entry float valve to replace an old ball
valve in a toilet. While I was trying to tighten it onto the pipe
connection I didn't notice a fibre washer had deteriorated and was
bulging on one side, and as I tightened the connection it pushed the
valve thread out of alignment and caused me to slightly strip the
plastic thread. I managed to correctly rescrew everything after
replacing the washer, but now I can't get the connection tight enought
to stop it leaking. I've tried PTFE tape and Bosswhite, but it seems
to need so much force to tighten the nut to stop leaks that the other
end of the valve connection keeps unscrewing (where it enters the
cistern). I can't find anyway to get both ends of the valve to screw
in without leaking (to the cistern and to the water feed). I've
probably ruined the valve thread and should buy a new one, but is
there any way to fix it?

Thanks,

Ken


If you've wrecked the valve thread you're pretty much screwed if PTFE
tape won't fix it. Boss White won't help.

Have a look carefully at the opening of the valve where it seats
against the fibre washer and see if there is any plastic moulding
flash.If so, carefully trim off. I had one like that once.

The seat of the metal connector could be damaged so check that
carefully as well.

More than likely you will need a new valve. I've found the Torbeck
are more reliable than Fluidmaster.

When you refit, do not do up the nut that attaches the valve to the
base of the cistern - leave it loose. Now put the connector nut and
fibre washer (a new one) on the valve and tighten very carefully by
hand. Now do up the nut on the bottom of the cistern and finally
the connector nut, but only gently.


.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl


Thanks Andy, I did what you said and it worked. I used a knife to
cut away some of the plastic that had been stripped off the thread,
did the pipe connection up tight first with a new washer, then the
cistern connection, and it's all fine.

Cheers,

Ken

How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

try an extra fibre washer and some fernox leak sealer,allow it to dry before
turning water back on,it may work,but probably better to replace valve.If
you have a ballifix valve connected it can be better to remove cistern then
connect tap connector to new valve then reinstall,this should assist in not
miss threading the connection.

How to tighten a cistern valve?
 

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message .net...
See if B&Q (or whoever) will take it back. Tell them it leaks, but don't
mention the stripped thread!

P.S. I once did exactly the same on exactly the same model valve...

Christian.

Have seen a cpl of these connections done with a 1/2" bsp female to 15
mm compression fittings sealed with ptfe tape etc

Much worse than plastic ball valves are plastic/nylon backnuts on taps
they seem to have been designed to split in two just before they are
done tight enough to stop the tap from rotating ! Never had that
problen with brass ones and always reuse them when found Anyone know
of a supplier of these all the places i ask at they say " No sorry but
you are not the first to ask today etc"

Steve