broken pine dining chair
 

I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4 along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.

"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4 along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.


I would use PVA wood glue, the gloopy white stuff. There are two types of
no-nails, one of which is based on volatiles ( no good for this purpose
IMHO ), the other is white and based on water. Whilst this second type of
no-nails is better than the first, both are high-grab, thick glues and will
not be the best adhesives to use.

Yes, you will probably have to sand the joint to get a good finish, as it is
not a clean break. I would consider clamping the joint whilst it sets to get
the best possible joint/finish: have you got a g-clamp? If so you could
clamp the joint with that, though you'll probably need a packing piece on
each side to spread the load. Be careful not to glue the packing pieces to
the break by accident! If in doubt, rub a little candle wax on the faces of
the packing pieces so any glue that is squeezed out will not adhere to them.
That would be how I would do it, anyway.

Andy.

andrewpreece wrote:
"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you
imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the
X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4
along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the
end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of
no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.


I would use PVA wood glue, the gloopy white stuff.

Thanks Andy, any brand suggestions and any particular reason why this
would be the better solution? No second guessing here, just trying to
understand. I'm no glue expert. :)

There are two types of
no-nails, one of which is based on volatiles ( no good for this
purpose
IMHO ), the other is white and based on water. Whilst this second
type of
no-nails is better than the first, both are high-grab, thick glues
and will
not be the best adhesives to use.

Similar to above really, would appreciate if you could expand on this
so I can understand why these two options wouldn't be the best.

Yes, you will probably have to sand the joint to get a good finish,
as it is
not a clean break. I would consider clamping the joint whilst it sets
to get
the best possible joint/finish: have you got a g-clamp? If so you
could
clamp the joint with that, though you'll probably need a packing
piece on
each side to spread the load. Be careful not to glue the packing
pieces to
the break by accident! If in doubt, rub a little candle wax on the
faces of
the packing pieces so any glue that is squeezed out will not adhere
to them.
That would be how I would do it, anyway.

Don't have a G-clamp but more than willing to go buy one if I need it.


Thanks for your help.

On 8 Feb 2005 16:21:51 -0800, "Dundonald"
wrote:

I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4 along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.

I'd use PVA wood glue, and clamp it (not so tight you squeeze all the
glue out)

Then Sand it off.

The gule joint will be stronger than the wood .... but the wood will
be week neer the joint.

Rick

Rick wrote:
On 8 Feb 2005 16:21:51 -0800, "Dundonald"
wrote:

I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the
X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4 along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the
end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of
no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.

I'd use PVA wood glue, and clamp it (not so tight you squeeze all the
glue out)

Thanks Rick, any suggestions on a particular brand of PVA wood glue?

Then Sand it off.

The gule joint will be stronger than the wood .... but the wood will
be week neer the joint.

Rick

Dundonald wrote:
Rick wrote:
"Dundonald" wrote:

I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.


The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together.

I'd use PVA wood glue, and clamp it (not so tight you squeeze all
the
glue out)

Thanks Rick, any suggestions on a particular brand of PVA wood glue?

Evo Stik is usually the best brand.

Rgds

Paul.

On 9 Feb 2005 01:28:42 -0800, "Dundonald"
wrote:


Rick wrote:
On 8 Feb 2005 16:21:51 -0800, "Dundonald"
wrote:

I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the
X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4 along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the
end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of
no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.

I'd use PVA wood glue, and clamp it (not so tight you squeeze all the
glue out)

Thanks Rick, any suggestions on a particular brand of PVA wood glue?

Then Sand it off.

The gule joint will be stronger than the wood .... but the wood will
be week neer the joint.

Rick

I use whats in the shop, which normall means evo stick.

Rick

"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...

andrewpreece wrote:
"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you
imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the
X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4
along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the
end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of
no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.


I would use PVA wood glue, the gloopy white stuff.

Thanks Andy, any brand suggestions and any particular reason why this
would be the better solution? No second guessing here, just trying to
understand. I'm no glue expert. :)

No brand recommendations I'm afraid, PVA is used for glueing wood, I used to
use it on my model aircraft! No-nails is general purpose and rather thick
stuff. I would not use the solvent based no-nails
under any circumstances for fine woodwork joiney as it forms an instant skin
when exposed to air and is very thick. The water-based no-nails is white and
is similar to PVA in many ways, but it is also designed for 'grab', though
it is not as good as the solvent-based stuff in this effect. You do not want
'grab' for your application, you want a gap-filling easy-flowing ( for good
penetration ) wood glue, and that is PVA. You can try the white 'no-nails'
if you like, it may be ok. You won't get a second try if it isn't though!

There are two types of
no-nails, one of which is based on volatiles ( no good for this
purpose
IMHO ), the other is white and based on water. Whilst this second
type of
no-nails is better than the first, both are high-grab, thick glues
and will
not be the best adhesives to use.

Similar to above really, would appreciate if you could expand on this
so I can understand why these two options wouldn't be the best.



Don't have a G-clamp but more than willing to go buy one if I need it.

Not strictly necessary to get a glued joint, but probably necessary to get
the best
joint in terms of strength and appearance.

Andy.

why do you want a brand name? any ****'ll do it.

NT

andrewpreece wrote:

No brand recommendations I'm afraid, PVA is used for glueing wood, I
used to
use it on my model aircraft! No-nails is general purpose and rather
thick
stuff. I would not use the solvent based no-nails
under any circumstances for fine woodwork joiney as it forms an
instant skin
when exposed to air and is very thick. The water-based no-nails is
white and
is similar to PVA in many ways, but it is also designed for 'grab',
though
it is not as good as the solvent-based stuff in this effect. You do
not want
'grab' for your application, you want a gap-filling easy-flowing (
for good
penetration ) wood glue, and that is PVA. You can try the white
'no-nails'
if you like, it may be ok. You won't get a second try if it isn't
though!

Thanks for your suggestions. Looks like most people suggest PVA wood
glue and from the sounds of it rightly so. I'm no glue expert so I'm
glad I checked in to this forum for advice. Your responses are much
appreciated. If I hadn't I think I'd be using no nails and wind up
making a right mess.


Don't have a G-clamp but more than willing to go buy one if I need
it.

Not strictly necessary to get a glued joint, but probably necessary
to get
the best
joint in terms of strength and appearance.

I'll go out and buy one.

Thanks again.