Query re plaster board and fixing/jointing etc
 

I have recently removed a load of grotty wall tiles from a small
bathroom. The walls are plasterboard on studding-even the external
walls.

It now looks like this..

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dooper786/bathroom1.jpg

I've never done any plasterboard fixing before but its a small job so
i thought id give it a go. I've already tried a few local plasterers
but no replies yet..!

I've been here..

http://www.british-gypsum.com/


and a brilliant and very informative site it is,,

apparently i need to use Gyrpoc moisture resist wall board.

Despite reading the install guides on the website,i couldnt quite
grasp the business of taping joints and micrometal mesh for external
corners eg window niches etc..

Can someone please explain the process of taping joints, fixing this
metal mesh on external corners and also what products i need?,i
understand its best to use the proper fixing screws to prvent boards
from coming loose in future etc..

Also the board is available in straight and tapered edge,which is best
for a novice in this location??

Thanks

joe

tarquinlinbin wrote:

I have recently removed a load of grotty wall tiles from a small
bathroom. The walls are plasterboard on studding-even the external
walls.

It now looks like this..

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dooper786/bathroom1.jpg

I've never done any plasterboard fixing before but its a small job so
i thought id give it a go. I've already tried a few local plasterers
but no replies yet..!

I've been here..

http://www.british-gypsum.com/


and a brilliant and very informative site it is,,

apparently i need to use Gyrpoc moisture resist wall board.

Despite reading the install guides on the website,i couldnt quite
grasp the business of taping joints and micrometal mesh for external
corners eg window niches etc..

Can someone please explain the process of taping joints, fixing this
metal mesh on external corners and also what products i need?,i
understand its best to use the proper fixing screws to prvent boards
from coming loose in future etc..

Umm.

Sort of.

Plasterboard is fairly waeka stiff, bu plaster is even weaker.

Ther are tow ways to 'do' plasterbard.

One is 'drywall' technique where you use tapered boards and, usually,
screws to hold it down. If you get the torque juts right the screws go
into the board far enough to be below the surface, but not far enough to
actually break the cardboard surface and then essentially fail to hold
it on place at all.

Then you fill the v shaped sections between boards with a filler, and
the screw heads, and paint straight on the cardoard, or paper over it.

More npormally te whole shebang is used simply as a substaret for a
plastering job. In this case you can use clouts to hold it up, and every
joint beween tow bits of board gets a scrim tape slapped over it, to
provide some strength when its plastered to prevent cracks. Mostly this
works. Sometyyies it doesnt.

External edges on 90 degree bends are fragile things, so metral edged
beads are ande that can be nailed over the joint prior to plastering.
These provide a nice metal edge to plaster to, and also resist knocks
and bamngs.

Or you can chamfer off the plasterbaord and, when skimming, use a
radiused tool to form the plaster into a nice curve.

Putting up plasterbaord is very easy. Skimming it s not.




Also the board is available in straight and tapered edge,which is best
for a novice in this location??

Thanks

joe

tarquinlinbin typed:

I have recently removed a load of grotty wall tiles from a small
bathroom. The walls are plasterboard on studding-even the external
walls.

It now looks like this..

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dooper786/bathroom1.jpg

snip

Looking at your photo, it doesn't look like its bad enough to warrant
boarding especially as it a bathroom, a skim plaster coat should be
sufficient.
Either get a quote for that, or DIY. this subject has been done to death on
here do a Google search re, plastering.
http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?hl...40%246166%24db
0fefd9%40news.zen.co.uk&rnum=6&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dplaster%2520skimming%26hl%
3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN%26tab%3Dwg
or
http://tinyurl.com/6xloq
is a good start.

--
Mark

Looking at your photo, it doesn't look like its bad enough to warrant
boarding especially as it a bathroom, a skim plaster coat should be
sufficient.
I agree. I'd re-tile the whole thing on the existing surface. Seal it with a
coat of oil based gloss paint and use a high spec adhesive.
New boards would mean taking the bath out, re-plumbing etc. Seems like
making work to me, and the end result won't reflect it.

I have recently removed a load of grotty wall tiles from a small
bathroom. The walls are plasterboard on studding-even the external
walls.

Looks fine to me. I'd just peel off any loose paper and tile over. Use a top
quality adhesive suitable that claims suitability for swimming pools. Then
ensure that you follow the instructions, including, very specifically, how
to tile using a 100% contact technique. You do not want dot-n-dab for a
shower area. Possibly consider using a PVA sealer, but check compatibility
with your chosen adhesive first.

I'd recommend the more expensive BAL products for ready mix or Ardex
Arduflex for a powder mix. Don't touch anything that claims to be usable as
a grout as well. Don't touch anything that doesn't mention swimming pools.

Christian.

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 11:56:27 -0000, "Stuart Noble"
wrote:


Looking at your photo, it doesn't look like its bad enough to warrant
boarding especially as it a bathroom, a skim plaster coat should be
sufficient.
I agree. I'd re-tile the whole thing on the existing surface. Seal it with a
coat of oil based gloss paint and use a high spec adhesive.
New boards would mean taking the bath out, re-plumbing etc. Seems like
making work to me, and the end result won't reflect it.

Yep,im the op and the thing is,it was fully tiles and looked awfull as
its a very small bathroom, i just want to paint it a nice bright
colour,add plenty of lighting and half tile round the bath to give a
feeling of space and light,,not fully tile..