I want to remove a radiator entirely and finish the wall as if it was never
there.

The radiator is mounted on a studded plasterboard wall. The feed and return
are 10mm copper pipe and exit the wall close together and perpendicular to
the wall's surface.

I'm comforatable with the draining, removal, plasterwork, inhibtors,
refilling and venting - my question is about capping the unwanted feed and
return pipes.

I want to do this as close as possible so the that it can be hidden inside
the wall cavity. I'm okay about removing some plasterboard to give myself
working room but would obviously like to minimise this as much as possible.

So I know about solder fittings and compression fittings.

Solder - I'm a little concerned about fire damage from the blow torch, and
whether using the torch on the end of the cap will create an effective
joint.

Compression - Concerned about the size of the fitting (won't be able to hide
it in the cavity) and actually getting enough access to tighten the joint.


QUESTION
=========
Are there any clever options that I am not aware of (bear in mind that it is
10mm pipe)?

Cheers,

Nigel

"Nigel Heather" wrote:

Are there any clever options that I am not aware of (bear in mind that it is
10mm pipe)?

You should find the concealed pipework within the cavity wall
will flex an inch or two either way. Pull the pipe out as far as
it will come. Cut leaving enough pipe remaining to apply a
compression end cap, then push the lot back into the cavity.
Apply filler.

Watch that the pipe doesn't slip back into the cavity before
you've got the stop cap on. Use a small pair of pointed mole
grips held against the wall to clamp it in place. If the
plasterboard hole is smaller than the compression fitting tap it
through using a piece of wooden dowel as a drift.

Greg C

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Nigel Heather wrote:


QUESTION
=========
Are there any clever options that I am not aware of (bear in mind
that it is 10mm pipe)?

Cheers,

Nigel

Maybe more obvious than clever? Find the *other* ends of the pipes where
they connect into the 22mm - or whatever - flow and return pipes. Cut off
the branches and cap the tee's.

Then you'll have no 'dead legs' to collect air, and you can do what you like
with the radiator end of the pipes.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:32:30 -0000, "Nigel Heather"
wrote:

I want to remove a radiator entirely and finish the wall as if it was never
there.

The radiator is mounted on a studded plasterboard wall. The feed and return
are 10mm copper pipe and exit the wall close together and perpendicular to
the wall's surface.

I'm comforatable with the draining, removal, plasterwork, inhibtors,
refilling and venting - my question is about capping the unwanted feed and
return pipes.

I want to do this as close as possible so the that it can be hidden inside
the wall cavity. I'm okay about removing some plasterboard to give myself
working room but would obviously like to minimise this as much as possible.

So I know about solder fittings and compression fittings.

Solder - I'm a little concerned about fire damage from the blow torch, and
whether using the torch on the end of the cap will create an effective
joint.

Compression - Concerned about the size of the fitting (won't be able to hide
it in the cavity) and actually getting enough access to tighten the joint.


QUESTION
=========
Are there any clever options that I am not aware of (bear in mind that it is
10mm pipe)?

Cheers,

Nigel





Have you conidered push fit ?

Rick

Do they do them for 10mm?

Are you suggesting the push fit alterative to compression joints or some
sort of plug that pushes into the internal diameter of the pipe?

Cheers,

Nigel

"Rick" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:32:30 -0000, "Nigel Heather"
wrote:

I want to remove a radiator entirely and finish the wall as if it was
never
there.

The radiator is mounted on a studded plasterboard wall. The feed and
return
are 10mm copper pipe and exit the wall close together and perpendicular to
the wall's surface.

I'm comforatable with the draining, removal, plasterwork, inhibtors,
refilling and venting - my question is about capping the unwanted feed and
return pipes.

I want to do this as close as possible so the that it can be hidden inside
the wall cavity. I'm okay about removing some plasterboard to give myself
working room but would obviously like to minimise this as much as
possible.

So I know about solder fittings and compression fittings.

Solder - I'm a little concerned about fire damage from the blow torch, and
whether using the torch on the end of the cap will create an effective
joint.

Compression - Concerned about the size of the fitting (won't be able to
hide
it in the cavity) and actually getting enough access to tighten the joint.


QUESTION
=========
Are there any clever options that I am not aware of (bear in mind that it
is
10mm pipe)?

Cheers,

Nigel





Have you conidered push fit ?

Rick

"Nigel Heather" wrote in message
...
I want to remove a radiator entirely and finish the wall as if it was
never
there.

The radiator is mounted on a studded plasterboard wall. The feed and
return
are 10mm copper pipe and exit the wall close together and perpendicular to
the wall's surface.

I'm comforatable with the draining, removal, plasterwork, inhibtors,
refilling and venting - my question is about capping the unwanted feed and
return pipes.

I want to do this as close as possible so the that it can be hidden inside
the wall cavity. I'm okay about removing some plasterboard to give myself
working room but would obviously like to minimise this as much as
possible.

So I know about solder fittings and compression fittings.

Solder - I'm a little concerned about fire damage from the blow torch, and
whether using the torch on the end of the cap will create an effective
joint.

Compression - Concerned about the size of the fitting (won't be able to
hide
it in the cavity) and actually getting enough access to tighten the joint.


QUESTION
=========
Are there any clever options that I am not aware of (bear in mind that it
is
10mm pipe)?

Cheers,

Nigel




==============
Join the 2 pipe ends with a 10mm straight end-feed connector and push back
into the cavity.

Cic.

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:51:32 GMT, "Cicero"
strung together this:

Join the 2 pipe ends with a 10mm straight end-feed connector and push back
into the cavity.

Er, don't do this.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

In article ,
Nigel Heather wrote:
I want to remove a radiator entirely and finish the wall as if it was
never there.

The radiator is mounted on a studded plasterboard wall. The feed and
return are 10mm copper pipe and exit the wall close together and
perpendicular to the wall's surface.

I'm comforatable with the draining, removal, plasterwork, inhibtors,
refilling and venting - my question is about capping the unwanted feed
and return pipes.

I want to do this as close as possible so the that it can be hidden
inside the wall cavity. I'm okay about removing some plasterboard to
give myself working room but would obviously like to minimise this as
much as possible.

If you've got plasterboard walls, chances are you've got suspended floors,
so I'd find the manifold feeding the rad and remove the pipes from there.
Not a good idea to have 'live' pipes floating around if there's no need.

--
*Some days you're the dog, some days the hydrant.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Nope, its a downstairs room. Most modern houses that I have seen (mine
included) have plasterboard walls and concrete floors on the ground floor.

All piping is in the wall somewhere, so I expect would have to tear a lot of
plasterboard away to find the main feed and return circuits.

Cheers,

Nigel


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Nigel Heather wrote:
I want to remove a radiator entirely and finish the wall as if it was
never there.

The radiator is mounted on a studded plasterboard wall. The feed and
return are 10mm copper pipe and exit the wall close together and
perpendicular to the wall's surface.

I'm comforatable with the draining, removal, plasterwork, inhibtors,
refilling and venting - my question is about capping the unwanted feed
and return pipes.

I want to do this as close as possible so the that it can be hidden
inside the wall cavity. I'm okay about removing some plasterboard to
give myself working room but would obviously like to minimise this as
much as possible.

If you've got plasterboard walls, chances are you've got suspended floors,
so I'd find the manifold feeding the rad and remove the pipes from there.
Not a good idea to have 'live' pipes floating around if there's no need.

--
*Some days you're the dog, some days the hydrant.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Nigel Heather wrote:

Nope, its a downstairs room. Most modern houses that I have seen
(mine included) have plasterboard walls and concrete floors on the
ground floor.

All piping is in the wall somewhere, so I expect would have to tear a
lot of plasterboard away to find the main feed and return circuits.

Cheers,

Nigel

I very much doubt whether the main flow and return pipes are inside walls.
Much more likely to be in the ceiling space under the upstairs floorboards.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Nigel Heather" wrote:

Nope, its a downstairs room. Most modern houses that I have seen (mine
included) have plasterboard walls and concrete floors on the ground floor.

All piping is in the wall somewhere, so I expect would have to tear a lot of
plasterboard away to find the main feed and return circuits.

If there is a manifold you will find it upstairs below the
floorboards, either centrally located or near the boiler. Larger
bore feed and return pipes will probably be located along under
the landing. Personally I can't see any harm in simply blanking
off the pipes as you originally suggested. Potential problems are
theoretical but unlikely.

Greg C

In article ,
Nigel Heather wrote:
Nope, its a downstairs room. Most modern houses that I have seen (mine
included) have plasterboard walls and concrete floors on the ground
floor.

All piping is in the wall somewhere, so I expect would have to tear a
lot of plasterboard away to find the main feed and return circuits.

I very much doubt it. The manifold will probably be underneath the
upstairs floor.

--
*Born free...Taxed to death.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:44:04 +0000, Peter Ramm
strung together this:

Join the 2 pipe ends with a 10mm straight end-feed connector and push back
into the cavity.

Er, don't do this.

Very informative and helpful -

Just as informative as the reasons as to why to do it in the first
place.

why not??

You're just bridging the flow and return mid-circuit, thus creating a
path of little or no resistance so hot water will be leaving the
boiler, shooting over to the return via Ciceros neat trick, and then
returning to the boiler which will then shut off as the return is as
hot as the flow.

This is the extremities of what might happen, but I wouldn't recommend
just linking bits of your flow and return together as any symptoms
between not a lot and the above could start showing up.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Peter Ramm wrote:

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 15:08:20 +0000, Lurch
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:51:32 GMT, "Cicero"
strung together this:

Join the 2 pipe ends with a 10mm straight end-feed connector and
push back into the cavity.

Er, don't do this.

Very informative and helpful - why not??

Probably because a lot of water will circulate through this loop - taking it
away from where it is needed, and heating up the inside of the wall
needlessly.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Peter Ramm wrote:

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 15:08:20 +0000, Lurch
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:51:32 GMT, "Cicero"
strung together this:

Join the 2 pipe ends with a 10mm straight end-feed connector and
push back into the cavity.

Er, don't do this.

Very informative and helpful - why not??

Probably because a lot of water will circulate through this loop - taking
it
away from where it is needed, and heating up the inside of the wall
needlessly.
--
Cheers,
Set Square

===================
The return from the 10mm loop will feed into the total return from the
system at the manifold. The volume of water in a 10mm loop is really quite
small in comparison with the total volume in the system so it's not likely
to have a serious effect on the overall return temperature.

A loose comparison could be made with a heated towel rail which has a much
greater volume than a 10 mm loop. It's pretty obvious that many people use
these as a sole heating source during normal Summer shutdown without any
harm.

I've used this method from time to time when redecorating rooms without any
ill effect and I prefer a flow to blanked off pipes which can create
problems of their own.

The original post (and follow-ups) suggests that the OP isn't very familiar
with his system so an acceptable compromise seems to be called for.

Cic.

The message
from "Cicero" contains these words:

The return from the 10mm loop will feed into the total return from the
system at the manifold. The volume of water in a 10mm loop is really quite
small in comparison with the total volume in the system so it's not likely
to have a serious effect on the overall return temperature.

The volume of water in the loop is of no consequence. What matters is
the volume of water passing though the loop and at best this will be as
bad as an unbalanced radiator with both valves fully open and no way to
close them down short of putting a crimp in the pipe.

--
Roger