Retrofitting microswitch to Chubb deadlock
 

Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?
--
fred

fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

In article ,
Ian Stirling writes
fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

There are some problems with that:
1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. If it is in
the lock case the switch will only release when the key is used but if it's in
the bolt pocket it would also release if the door is jemmied.
2. Dirt could get in the pocket and mess up the switch operation.
3. A spy could put a stolen eraser in the hole to activate the switch and
escape captivity - didn't you watch the man from uncle :-?

I've just checked it out with my local locksmith and it looks feasible but I
may have to drill a couple of fixing holes. Microswitches are an optional
fitment for this model so I reckon the lockcase is bigger to make room.

I decided to buy the locks from the locksmith too, more expensive than
online, but no postage and he gave freely of his time without any guarantee
of my business. If anyone needs a locksmith in Glasgow I'll post his
details.
--
fred

In uk.d-i-y, fred wrote:
In article ,
Ian Stirling writes
fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

There are some problems with that:
1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. If it is in
the lock case the switch will only release when the key is used but if it's in
the bolt pocket it would also release if the door is jemmied.

Why is that a problem? Just curious.

--
Mike Barnes

In article , Mike
Barnes writes
In uk.d-i-y, fred wrote:
In article ,
Ian Stirling writes
fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

There are some problems with that:
1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. If it is in
the lock case the switch will only release when the key is used but if it's in
the bolt pocket it would also release if the door is jemmied.

Why is that a problem? Just curious.

If I configure it in the most basic way, the alarm will be disabled when the
lock is unlocked and the switch is released. If the switch is in the pocket
in the door jamb and the door was jemmied, the switch would release and .
.. . . . . disable the alarm :-/. ie break-in disables alarm.

Actually, for a switch in the lock, it is operated (not released) when the
lock is unlocked, but the contacts are changeover so I can configure it as I
like.
--
fred

Mike Barnes wrote:
In uk.d-i-y, fred wrote:
In article ,
Ian Stirling writes
fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

There are some problems with that:
1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. If it is in
the lock case the switch will only release when the key is used but if it's in
the bolt pocket it would also release if the door is jemmied.

Why is that a problem? Just curious.

I think the idea is that if it's used to turn on/off the alarm, you don't want
the alarm to turn off if the door is jemmied :)

In uk.d-i-y, fred wrote:
In article , Mike
Barnes writes
In uk.d-i-y, fred wrote:
In article ,
Ian Stirling writes
fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing
I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

There are some problems with that:
1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. If
it is in
the lock case the switch will only release when the key is used but
if it's in
the bolt pocket it would also release if the door is jemmied.

Why is that a problem? Just curious.

If I configure it in the most basic way, the alarm will be disabled when the
lock is unlocked and the switch is released. If the switch is in the pocket
in the door jamb and the door was jemmied, the switch would release and .
. . . . . disable the alarm :-/. ie break-in disables alarm.

I see, thanks. I'm used to even more basic configurations where opening
the door merely starts a timer and further action is required to disable
the alarm.

--
Mike Barnes

"fred" wrote
| 1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm.
| If it is in the lock case the switch will only release when the key
| is used but if it's in the bolt pocket it would also release if the
| door is jemmied.

That should be irrelevant as the final set confirm switch should be
completely independent of the detection loop and should only set the alarm,
not unset it or disable the detection loop. It sounds like you are wiring it
as a shunt switch instead, which used to be the way to do it until ACPO
released guidance on final set confirm switches and more panels became
available with the facility.

A final set switch should be a non-latching push button wired to the final
set input on the panel and outside the protected area.

Owain

In article , Mike
Barnes writes

I see, thanks. I'm used to even more basic configurations where opening
the door merely starts a timer and further action is required to disable
the alarm.

The idea is to get it sounding early to discourage entry. There'll be a shock
sensor on the door frame too for an early trip and a v loud sounder right by
the door, again to discourage entry. Arming off the lock means there's no
excuse for (the tenants) not setting the alarm. It's a 2nd storey flat so the
door is the most likely entry point.
--
fred

In article ,
fred wrote:
I see, thanks. I'm used to even more basic configurations where opening
the door merely starts a timer and further action is required to disable
the alarm.

The idea is to get it sounding early to discourage entry. There'll be a
shock sensor on the door frame too for an early trip and a v loud
sounder right by the door, again to discourage entry. Arming off the
lock means there's no excuse for (the tenants) not setting the alarm.
It's a 2nd storey flat so the door is the most likely entry point.

I'm not quite clear then how it would be any better than a much more
simple to wire and hide magnetic reed switch in the door?

--
*I got a sweater for Christmas. I really wanted a screamer or a moaner*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

fred wrote:
In article ,
Ian Stirling writes

fred wrote:

Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?


There are some problems with that:
....

3. A spy could put a stolen eraser in the hole to activate the switch and
escape captivity - didn't you watch the man from uncle :-?

Evidently not that episode. Pray remind us?

(My favourite was the one set in 'England': in this case not a misnomer
for Britain, as it featured a crossing into Wales, via a rather
formidable looking border checkpoint. :-)

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 19:14:35 GMT, fred strung together
this:

Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?

There are some problems with that:
1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. If it is in
the lock case the switch will only release when the key is used but if it's in
the bolt pocket it would also release if the door is jemmied.

Which wouldn't unset the alarm if the switch is connected and
programmed as a PTS switch. It would set the alarm when the door is
locked but wouldn't do anything if it was consequently opened\closed.
A seperate entry zone would have to be triggered to do this.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
fred wrote:
I see, thanks. I'm used to even more basic configurations where
opening the door merely starts a timer and further action is
required to disable the alarm.

The idea is to get it sounding early to discourage entry. There'll
be a shock sensor on the door frame too for an early trip and a v
loud sounder right by the door, again to discourage entry. Arming
off the lock means there's no excuse for (the tenants) not setting
the alarm. It's a 2nd storey flat so the door is the most likely
entry point.

I'm not quite clear then how it would be any better than a much more
simple to wire and hide magnetic reed switch in the door?

I'm assuming it's a switch in the door frame that's acted on by the locking
bolt. A reed switch would only show door closed (or slighty open) but
couldn't discriminate between locked/unlocked. A switch on the locking
action would mean the door is both closed and locked.

--
James...
www.jameshart.co.uk

In article , fred writes
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

Thanks for all the replies (although nobody answered the question :-).

To clarify:

Correct, this is not a final set switch, it will actually be used to
enable/disable the alarm. Yes, I am aware that this is not ideal, but better
than a fitted alarm that is never set because it is too much hassle. For
info, alarm will arm on open circuit condition so cutting the wire would arm
the system.

Proprietary solutions such as reeds and magnets are no go as this is a
property occupied by tenants so simple and non optional arming is best.

The switch will be mounted in the body of the lock itself and will be
activated by the internal mechanism of the lock, therefore making it
relatively secure from tampering.

The switch has nothing to do with triggering the alarm, only setting; other
sensors, including conventional door contacts will be used to trigger the
alarm.

The info I was/am looking for is the precise location in the lockcase that
the switch is fitted by the manufacturer and the model of microswitch they
use eg V3, V4 etc as I have to buy the parts before I get the lock in my
hand. Fortunately I can buy a selection of wire ended lever action types (I
know that much) and determine the precise position when the lock arrives.
At the moment I am guessing that V3 will be too big so a flimsy V4 it will
have to be.

Thanks
--
fred

In article , John Stumbles john.stumble
writes
fred wrote:
In article ,
Ian Stirling writes


3. A spy could put a stolen eraser in the hole to activate the switch and
escape captivity - didn't you watch the man from uncle :-?

Evidently not that episode. Pray remind us?

(My favourite was the one set in 'England': in this case not a misnomer
for Britain, as it featured a crossing into Wales, via a rather
formidable looking border checkpoint. :-)

Okay, maybe not the man from uncle then, maybe other 'high tech' spy
drama or sad war movie. Here's the gist:

Prisoner (hero) being interrogated in office of high commander - refuses to
talk (gets slap).

Commandant: "we'll see how he likes a spell in the cells, take him away".

Hero: Overreacts dramatically and lunges at commandant over desk
shouting , "No, No" to cover the theft of eraser from desktop.

At the cell, just as he is about to be thrown in, he resist again ("No, No" )
and pushes against door jamb to try to resist being thrown in with his other
prisoner chums. Eventually beaten senseless & thrown in cell and door is
slammed shut.

Chums gather round, slap him to consciousness and hero develops
ridiculous grin, walks over to door and pulls it open.

The dumb nazis (insert optional antihero here) have foolishly only fitted a
spring latch to the cell door and this is being held off by the stolen eraser
wedged into the hole in the door jamb.

Obvious really ;-)
--
fred

fred wrote:
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid
Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid

That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy
the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb
or any other?

It might not be that simple...
A look here would suggest that the levers and thrower are different
between the two.
http://www.chubblocks.co.uk/newmortice4.html

Lee
--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.

Ignore that, obviously can't read today :(

Lee

--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.