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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Spalling bricks / re-pointing
Hi,
I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point. Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures - http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. Thanks, Steve. |
#2
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You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick
round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks wrote in message news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost... Hi, I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point. Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures - http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. Thanks, Steve. |
#3
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Bruce Tanner wrote:
wrote in message news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost... Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks I've heard of this trick before, but given that the affected bricks are evidently susceptible to spalling, isn't it wasted effort to re-use the same bricks? Just wondering. David |
#5
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wrote in message news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost... Hi, I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point. Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures - http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. Thanks, Steve. "Bruce Tanner" wrote in message ... You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder. Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have 'metric' bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long compared to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out the damaged bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they will not stop. |
#6
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On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Mark wrote: typed: Hi, I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point. Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures - http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. Has the main part of this house got a flat roof ? why is there no guttering visible on the flank wall. The pictures might be a bit misleading. Looking at http://steve.blokes.org.uk/p10788644.html, that is the side wall of the property (it's a semi) looking up to the chimney stack. You can see the roof on the LHS sloping towards the front of the house. The guttering is further left - out of shot. I guess it does look like the chimny stack is the end of a flat root. Steve. |
#7
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On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Space_Cowby wrote: Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder. Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have 'metric' bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long compared to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out the damaged bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they will not stop. Just measured the bricks and they're ~220mm wide - but they'll 'imperial' given it's an edwardian house. I should have some spare bricks so that won't be an issue. Is this a feasible job to do up a ladder? There's 3 bricks next to one another which has failed, is it OK to replace them all at the same time? Or should I do one, let it set, do another,etc.? Thanks to everyone who has replied, Steve. |
#8
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"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:... wrote in message news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost... Hi, I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point. Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures - http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. Thanks, Steve. "Bruce Tanner" wrote in message ... You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder. Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have 'metric' bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long compared to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out the damaged bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they will not stop. |
#9
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snip
They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging away quite hard here. Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints out with a hammer drill or SDS drill. Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff mortar mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint - between the top of the last new brick and bottom of old one. Plugging chisel http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.284 cold chisel http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.833 electricians bolster http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc...lQzNp65In0_ _ although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width as a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide and will be no use for getting a brick out. |
#10
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"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:... snip They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging away quite hard here. Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints out with a hammer drill or SDS drill. Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff mortar mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint - between the top of the last new brick and bottom of old one. Plugging chisel http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.284 cold chisel http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.833 electricians bolster http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc...lQzNp65In0_ _ although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width as a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide and will be no use for getting a brick out. |
#11
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"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:... "Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:... snip They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging away quite hard here. Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints out with a hammer drill or SDS drill. Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff mortar mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint - between the top of the last new brick and bottom of old one. Plugging chisel http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.284 cold chisel http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.833 electricians bolster http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc...lQzNp65In0_ _ although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width as a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide and will be no use for getting a brick out. |
#12
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typed:
Hi, I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point. Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures - http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel. Has the main part of this house got a flat roof ? why is there no guttering visible on the flank wall. The pictures might be a bit misleading. Ahh ok.. Yes it can be done off a ladder if you are ok with working at that height, would be worth using a ladder stand-off as you will need both hands free. And although expensive one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/...set=UTF-8&pn=1 &pd=1&pi=1&cn=1&cd=1&q=&n=17951-76&x=6&y=7 are useful for getting mortar into the gaps. Frogs up, and well buttered first |
#13
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On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Space_Cowby wrote: They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging away quite hard here. OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser. I was thinking for getting a stabiliser which spreads the load at the top (and provides a convenient tray) plus one which has telescoping legs to spread the ground area. Sound reasonable? Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints out with a hammer drill or SDS drill. Fine. Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this worthwhile? It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some mortar? Cheers, Steve. |
#14
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wrote:
OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser. I was thinking for getting a stabiliser which spreads the load at the top (and provides a convenient tray) plus one which has telescoping legs to spread the ground area. Sound reasonable? I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job: http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g or http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...72002&id=32096 It really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar, the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against the wall really helps make it more stable too. David |
#15
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On Sun, 16 Jan 2005, Lobster wrote: OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser. I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job: http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g or http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...72002&id=32096 It really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar, the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against the wall really helps make it more stable too. Excellent, thanks for the info. One of those is definitely on then shopping list. I really could have done with one of those whilst doing the upstairs windows. |
#16
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I would definitely use an angle grinder rather than hand tools, for top
and bottom at least. Theyre very cheap from screwfix or toolstation. With a diamond blade (=A311 for 3 from toolstation) Turning damaged bricks round works, tho for how long is another matter, I wouldnt. Your pic addr isnt available, is this an old house by any chance? NT |
#17
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Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this worthwhile? What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some mortar? 1. Its easier but not as satisfying if you know what i mean. I still prefer to chop out by hand as i dont think its that much quicker. 2. Dont face up with mortar as this will just blow come the next frost. you will need to break the headers ' tie bricks' then just replace with a half brick. You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i think clear sealant. .. |
#18
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#19
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In article 184db44dc426cf939be6f314be68b5c1@localhost,
" says... On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 wrote: I would definitely use an angle grinder rather than hand tools, for top and bottom at least. Theyre very cheap from screwfix or toolstation. With a diamond blade (=A311 for 3 from toolstation) OK. I'll have a go with handtools to start - the mortar is quite sandy and fairly easy to remove. But if the going gets tough I shall resort to the might of the anglegrinder. Turning damaged bricks round works, tho for how long is another matter, I wouldnt. Your pic addr isnt available, is this an old house by any chance? Pic link definitely working OK on NTL. Yes, it's Edwardian - so 90 odd years old. The chimney has already been repointed, the rest of that wall is untouched. So it's done pretty well as it is fairly well exposed to the weather. Looks like it could be lime mortar - if so you should probably repoint in lime, as a portland cement mortar may cause problems. |
#20
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On Sun, 16 Jan 2005, Rob Morley wrote: Yes, it's Edwardian - so 90 odd years old. The chimney has already been repointed, the rest of that wall is untouched. So it's done pretty well as it is fairly well exposed to the weather. Looks like it could be lime mortar - if so you should probably repoint in lime, as a portland cement mortar may cause problems. That did cross my mind but assumed it wasn't given the other areas that have been repointed are using cement mortar. Is there any easy way of determining the makeup of the mortar? |
#21
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It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has
spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some mortar? Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick dust I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job: http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g or http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...72002&id=32096 It really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar, the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against the wall really helps make it more stable too. Every time I use mine I curse its design. Yes it is great having widely separated feet and a tabletop to put things on but how about the four sets of nuts and washers and wingnuts which have to be fixed in position around ladder and standoff while the ladder is propped up and over something and the standoff is balanced on top of it cos if the ladder is laid flat you can't get at the nuts. After the job is over the standoff cum ladder contraption is too awkwardly bulky to store so it all has to be taken apart and the nuts and washers and wingnuts and standoff connected together again cos if I don't then they will have gone walkabout before I need to use the standoff again Must have been designed by a man Sits back and waits for outrage Anna ~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642 |
#22
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Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this
worthwhile? Breaking the brick makes getting it out easier, if youre having difficulty. But drilling holes is rather a slow approach, small angle grinder miles easier. What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Point with lime mortar rather than cement. And be very gentle indeed with neighbouring bricks, they break very easily. Breaking sets off spalling. 2. Dont face up with mortar as this will just blow come the next frost. Have you tried it? I've only done that once, and so far so good. I realise its not the best option for long term life, but for a place out of view its a mighty quick and effective repair. It is necessary to brush off any loose brick, if you dont then its just waiting to blow. Using lime should avoid it blowing long term. You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i think clear sealant. This would trap water content, causing brick spalling. Not recommended. It also makes damp problems much worse. This is a very common mistake. is this an old house by any chance? Yes, it's Edwardian - so 90 odd years old. Then I'd be using lime mortar, 3:1. Cement on soft porous bricks can cause spalling. That did cross my mind but assumed it wasn't given the other areas that have been repointed are using cement mortar. Is there any easy way of determining the makeup of the mortar? In most cases sharp sand, builders sand, lime. Dont point in lime when frost is expected in the month or 2 ahead, it takes a long time to set. Anna Kettle: Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick dust Just the one brick you mean? I really would not limewash the whole wall, it will make it look awful and add a regular maintenance job for no need. Every time I use mine I curse its design. Must have been designed by a man Sits back and waits for outrage No outrage here. Plenty of junk on the market. NT |
#23
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from your pics i would .personally, think twice about cutting out and
replacing the bricks that are close to the tiled roof ( third pic of original post). I would be afraid that they might disrupt the return on the render of the underside of the roof slate/ tiles and adjoining bricks as they are close to the end of the courses of brick..If it were me i would just reface these as they don't seem that bad. As they are high up I don't think anyone would notice any mis matching , although I think it would be important to keep the brick line. If it were me like i would make up the brick faces, let em go off a bit , cut too size- let em dry and then repoint as if they were the original bricks,. The refacing of the bricks would be done with cement dye to try and match colour, as with the pointing. I am not a professional so its just my opinon. |
#24
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from your pics i would .personally, think twice about cutting out and
replacing the bricks that are close to the tiled roof ( third pic of original post). I would be afraid that they might disrupt the return on the render of the underside of the roof slate/ tiles and adjoining bricks as they are close to the end of the courses of brick..If it were me i would just reface these as they don't seem that bad. As they are high up I don't think anyone would notice any mis matching , although I think it would be important to keep the brick line. If it were me like i would make up the brick faces, let em go off a bit , cut too size- let em dry and then repoint as if they were the original bricks,. The refacing of the bricks would be done with cement dye to try and match colour, as with the pointing. I am not a professional so its just my opinon. |
#25
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On 16 Jan 2005 18:53:54 -0800, wrote:
Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick dust Just the one brick you mean? I really would not limewash the whole wall, it will make it look awful and add a regular maintenance job for no need. Yes, just where spalling has occurred, to provide a surface which water will tend to run off rather than into. If the spalling is in a shape which will make pools of water then go one step further and use lime mortar to assist water shedding. This is instead of removing the bricks and is used by National Trust etc when spalling exists and needs to be slowed/halted but the spalling is not so bad that whole bricks or stones need to be cut out It was first tried on Wells Cathedral 30 years ago and seems to be working well Anna ~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642 |
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#27
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Anna Kettle wrote:
It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some mortar? Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick dust That's interesting. As an aside, a few months back I was trying to make good some red-brick house walls (early 1900's) from which the subsequently-applied render had been removed leaving a grubby grey residue. I tried brick acid on it but that was a non-starter (5 minutes and a lot of elbow grease per brick for only a fair result) and wimped out of sand-blasting because an expert (now I think about it, it was you, Anna, who put me on to him!) reckoned it would wreck the bricks. So I just left it all alone and hope that the muck will weather away eventually. But I did wonder about trying to cover it up - would your brick-dust-treated limewash work? Never used limewash, how long would it stay on an external wall? Wouldn't it just wash off? David |
#28
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Anna Kettle wrote:
I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job: http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g Every time I use mine I curse its design. Yes it is great having widely separated feet and a tabletop to put things on but how about the four sets of nuts and washers and wingnuts which have to be fixed in position around ladder and standoff while the ladder is propped up and over something and the standoff is balanced on top of it cos if the ladder is laid flat you can't get at the nuts. After the job is over the standoff cum ladder contraption is too awkwardly bulky to store so it all has to be taken apart and the nuts and washers and wingnuts and standoff connected together again cos if I don't then they will have gone walkabout before I need to use the standoff again Must have been designed by a man Sits back and waits for outrage I'm *totally* outraged...! Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair (see link above)? (Mine, by extrapolation, must have been designed by a woman!). It only has two wingnuts to attach it and they really aren't at all fiddly - have to say when I first saw it, I thought it would never be safe and secure enough, but it is. Yours sounds more like my roof-ladder attachment, which I agree is a right palaver to rig up. Thinking about it, I have to say one disadvantage of the standoff is that if you have a long ladder like mine it's damned awkward to stand it up; I find mine unweildy enough anyway, without the presence of a bulky extra weight right at the top! David |
#29
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ty, nice tip for the archive there.
NT |
#30
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:22:31 GMT, Lobster
wrote: wimped out of sand-blasting because an expert (now I think about it, it was you, Anna, who put me on to him!) That was rash of me. Generally when people mention sand blasting in my hearing it is cos they want to remove paint and varnish from old timbers. I throw my hands up in horror and say "Crunchie bar". In future I will throw my hands up in horror when they mention brick and sandblasting too reckoned it would wreck the bricks. So I just left it all alone and hope that the muck will weather away eventually. But I did wonder about trying to cover it up - would your brick-dust-treated limewash work? Never used limewash, how long would it stay on an external wall? Wouldn't it just wash off? I suppose so, but then you would have a painted brick wall - or would you have the patience to paint each brick separately? Limewash normally needs to be redone perhaps every 5-10 years depending on exposure to the weather, though if you can colourmatch well to the bricks then I spex you could get away with relimewashing less frequently as you wouldn't need the perfect finish of a limewashed wall. If applied correctly then limewash doesn't wash off as a one way chemical reaction occurs as the lime sets. As another possibility you could look up "tuck pointing" which is a tried and tested method of tarting up old brickwork. The one time I looked carefully at some tuck pointing I reckoned that close to it didn't look very nice but that could have just been a poor example. The general idea is to sharpen up the pointing with coloured lime mortar to give the bricks more definition Anna ~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642 |
#31
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:31:35 GMT, Lobster
wrote: Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair (see link above)? Just checked the URL and yes you do have a different one - yours wasn't available when I bought mine about a year ago. The one I bought is the "Ladder Stay" on the same page Anna ~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642 |
#32
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wrote in message
ups.com... You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i think clear sealant. This would trap water content, causing brick spalling. Not recommended. It also makes damp problems much worse. This is a very common mistake. Going slightly off the original topic ... but I want to paint the floor (concrete) and walls (bare brick one side, pebble-dash rendering on the other) of my garage this spring. The bare bricks and floor in particular I get the impression will just drink paint as I would imagine they're quite porous. Would what you suggested above be the best primer to seal it before painting or is there something else better suited to the job? a |
#33
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Garage floor paint.
Actually the commercial concrete floor paints are much better. NT |
#34
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wrote in message
oups.com... Garage floor paint. Actually the commercial concrete floor paints are much better. Do you need to prime that first or is it a single coat finish? a |
#35
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Anna Kettle wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:31:35 GMT, Lobster wrote: Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair (see link above)? Just checked the URL and yes you do have a different one - yours wasn't available when I bought mine about a year ago. The one I bought is the "Ladder Stay" on the same page Actually, I just spotted mine in the garage just now - my memory was failing me: mine attaches to the ladder by just a single knurled hand wheel; dead quick and easy. I was really surprised how rigidly it mounts TBH. I think you'd find it a real revelation after yours! David |
#36
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Lobster wrote:
Anna Kettle wrote: On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:31:35 GMT, Lobster wrote: Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair (see link above)? Just checked the URL and yes you do have a different one - yours wasn't available when I bought mine about a year ago. The one I bought is the "Ladder Stay" on the same page Actually, I just spotted mine in the garage just now - my memory was failing me: mine attaches to the ladder by just a single knurled hand wheel; dead quick and easy. I was really surprised how rigidly it mounts TBH. I think you'd find it a real revelation after yours! http://www.haxnicks.co.uk/direct/laddermax.asp shows my Screwfix one in action, in case you're interested! David |
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