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Default Spalling bricks / re-pointing

Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house,
but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and
re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures -
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.

Thanks,

Steve.
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Bruce Tanner
 
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You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick
round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching
bricks

wrote in message
news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost...
Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of
the house,
but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks
and
re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some
pictures -
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them?
Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with
gravel.

Thanks,

Steve.



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Lobster
 
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Bruce Tanner wrote:

wrote in message
news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost...


Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them?


You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick
round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching
bricks


I've heard of this trick before, but given that the affected bricks are
evidently susceptible to spalling, isn't it wasted effort to re-use the
same bricks? Just wondering.

David

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Mark
 
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typed:

Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the
house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling
bricks and re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures
-
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.


Has the main part of this house got a flat roof ?
why is there no guttering visible on the flank wall.

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Space_Cowby
 
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wrote in message
news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost...
Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house,
but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and
re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures -
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.

Thanks,

Steve.



"Bruce Tanner" wrote in message
...
You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and
re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks



Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder.

Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have 'metric'
bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long compared
to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out the damaged
bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they will not stop.




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On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Mark wrote:



typed:

Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the
house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling
bricks and re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures
-
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.


Has the main part of this house got a flat roof ?
why is there no guttering visible on the flank wall.


The pictures might be a bit misleading.

Looking at http://steve.blokes.org.uk/p10788644.html, that is the side
wall of the property (it's a semi) looking up to the chimney stack. You
can see the roof on the LHS sloping towards the front of the house. The
guttering is further left - out of shot. I guess it does look like the
chimny stack is the end of a flat root.

Steve.
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On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Space_Cowby wrote:

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.


You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and
re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks


Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder.

Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have 'metric'
bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long compared
to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out the damaged
bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they will not stop.


Just measured the bricks and they're ~220mm wide - but they'll 'imperial'
given it's an edwardian house.

I should have some spare bricks so that won't be an issue.

Is this a feasible job to do up a ladder?

There's 3 bricks next to one another which has failed, is it OK to replace
them all at the same time? Or should I do one, let it set, do
another,etc.?

Thanks to everyone who has replied,

Steve.
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Space_Cowby
 
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"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:...


wrote in message
news:c9bc8ce2b54805fe2bd42fc36504406d@localhost...
Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the
house,
but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and
re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures -
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should
I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.

Thanks,

Steve.



"Bruce Tanner" wrote in message
...
You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and
re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks



Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder.

Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have
'metric' bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long
compared to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out
the damaged bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they
will not stop.



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Space_Cowby
 
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snip

They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it
can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You
will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging
away quite hard here.

Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and
then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is
no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians
chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints
out with a hammer drill or SDS drill.

Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff mortar
mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint - between the top
of the last new brick and bottom of old one.

Plugging chisel
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.284

cold chisel
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.833

electricians bolster
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc...lQzNp65In0_ _
although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width as
a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide and
will be no use for getting a brick out.


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Space_Cowby
 
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"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:...
snip

They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it
can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out.
You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be
banging away quite hard here.

Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and
then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is
no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians
chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints
out with a hammer drill or SDS drill.

Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff mortar
mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint - between the
top of the last new brick and bottom of old one.

Plugging chisel
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.284

cold chisel
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.833

electricians bolster
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc...lQzNp65In0_ _
although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width
as a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide
and will be no use for getting a brick out.





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Space_Cowby
 
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"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:...

"Space_Cowby" wrote in message news:...
snip

They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder
it can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks
out. You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You
will be banging away quite hard here.

Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half
and then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing
there is no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster -
electricians chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill
all the joints out with a hammer drill or SDS drill.

Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff
mortar mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint -
between the top of the last new brick and bottom of old one.

Plugging chisel
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.284

cold chisel
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/i...hp?tools=9.833

electricians bolster
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc...lQzNp65In0_ _
although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width
as a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide
and will be no use for getting a brick out.





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Mark
 
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typed:



Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the
house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling
bricks and re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some
pictures
-
http://steve.blokes.org.uk/c399788.html

Do I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them?
Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with
gravel.


Has the main part of this house got a flat roof ?
why is there no guttering visible on the flank wall.


The pictures might be a bit misleading.


Ahh ok..
Yes it can be done off a ladder if you are ok with working at that height,
would be worth using a ladder stand-off as you will need both hands free.
And although expensive one of these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/...set=UTF-8&pn=1
&pd=1&pi=1&cn=1&cd=1&q=&n=17951-76&x=6&y=7
are useful for getting mortar into the gaps.
Frogs up, and well buttered first


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On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Space_Cowby wrote:

They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it
can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You
will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging
away quite hard here.


OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser. I was
thinking for getting a stabiliser which spreads the load at the top (and
provides a convenient tray) plus one which has telescoping legs to spread
the ground area. Sound reasonable?

Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and
then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is
no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians
chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints
out with a hammer drill or SDS drill.


Fine. Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this
worthwhile?

It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has
spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the
brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's
the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some
mortar?

Cheers,

Steve.
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Lobster
 
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wrote:

OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser.

I was
thinking for getting a stabiliser which spreads the load at the top (and
provides a convenient tray) plus one which has telescoping legs to spread
the ground area. Sound reasonable?


I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job:

http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g or
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...72002&id=32096

It really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any
sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a
tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar,
the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without
falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against
the wall really helps make it more stable too.

David
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On Sun, 16 Jan 2005, Lobster wrote:

OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser.


I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job:

http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g or
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...72002&id=32096

It really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any
sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a
tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar,
the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without
falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against
the wall really helps make it more stable too.


Excellent, thanks for the info. One of those is definitely on then
shopping list. I really could have done with one of those whilst doing the
upstairs windows.


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I would definitely use an angle grinder rather than hand tools, for top
and bottom at least. Theyre very cheap from screwfix or toolstation.
With a diamond blade (=A311 for 3 from toolstation)

Turning damaged bricks round works, tho for how long is another matter,
I wouldnt.
Your pic addr isnt available, is this an old house by any chance?

NT

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Space_Cowby
 
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Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this worthwhile?
What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some
mortar?

1. Its easier but not as satisfying if you know what i mean. I still prefer
to chop out by hand as i dont think its that much quicker.

2. Dont face up with mortar as this will just blow come the next frost. you
will need to break the headers ' tie bricks' then just replace with a half
brick.

You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i think
clear sealant.
..


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On Sun, 16 Jan 2005, Rob Morley wrote:

Yes, it's Edwardian - so 90 odd years old. The chimney has already been
repointed, the rest of that wall is untouched. So it's done pretty well as
it is fairly well exposed to the weather.

Looks like it could be lime mortar - if so you should probably
repoint in lime, as a portland cement mortar may cause problems.


That did cross my mind but assumed it wasn't given the other areas that
have been repointed are using cement mortar. Is there any easy way of
determining the makeup of the mortar?


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Anna Kettle
 
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It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has
spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the
brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's
the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some
mortar?


Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick
dust

I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job:

http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g or
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...72002&id=32096

It really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any
sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a
tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar,
the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without
falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against
the wall really helps make it more stable too.


Every time I use mine I curse its design. Yes it is great having
widely separated feet and a tabletop to put things on but how about
the four sets of nuts and washers and wingnuts which have to be fixed
in position around ladder and standoff while the ladder is propped up
and over something and the standoff is balanced on top of it cos if
the ladder is laid flat you can't get at the nuts. After the job is
over the standoff cum ladder contraption is too awkwardly bulky to
store so it all has to be taken apart and the nuts and washers and
wingnuts and standoff connected together again cos if I don't then
they will have gone walkabout before I need to use the standoff again

Must have been designed by a man

Sits back and waits for outrage

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642
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Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this
worthwhile?

Breaking the brick makes getting it out easier, if youre having
difficulty. But drilling holes is rather a slow approach, small angle
grinder miles easier.


What's the best way to prevent any further spalling?


Point with lime mortar rather than cement. And be very gentle indeed
with neighbouring bricks, they break very easily. Breaking sets off
spalling.


2. Dont face up with mortar as this will just blow come the next

frost.

Have you tried it? I've only done that once, and so far so good. I
realise its not the best option for long term life, but for a place out
of view its a mighty quick and effective repair. It is necessary to
brush off any loose brick, if you dont then its just waiting to blow.

Using lime should avoid it blowing long term.


You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i

think
clear sealant.


This would trap water content, causing brick spalling. Not recommended.
It also makes damp problems much worse. This is a very common mistake.


is this an old house by any chance?


Yes, it's Edwardian - so 90 odd years old.


Then I'd be using lime mortar, 3:1. Cement on soft porous bricks can
cause spalling.


That did cross my mind but assumed it wasn't given the other areas

that
have been repointed are using cement mortar. Is there any easy way of
determining the makeup of the mortar?


In most cases sharp sand, builders sand, lime. Dont point in lime when
frost is expected in the month or 2 ahead, it takes a long time to set.


Anna Kettle:

Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick
dust


Just the one brick you mean? I really would not limewash the whole
wall, it will make it look awful and add a regular maintenance job for
no need.


Every time I use mine I curse its design.


Must have been designed by a man


Sits back and waits for outrage

No outrage here. Plenty of junk on the market.


NT

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from your pics i would .personally, think twice about cutting out and
replacing the bricks that are close to the tiled roof ( third pic of
original post). I would be afraid that they might disrupt the return on
the render of the underside of the roof slate/ tiles and adjoining
bricks as they are close to the end of the courses of brick..If it were
me i would just reface these as they don't seem that bad. As they are
high up I don't think anyone would notice any mis matching , although I
think it would be important to keep the brick line. If it were me like
i would make up the brick faces, let em go off a bit , cut too size-
let em dry and then repoint as if they were the original bricks,. The
refacing of the bricks would be done with cement dye to try and match
colour, as with the pointing.
I am not a professional so its just my opinon.

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from your pics i would .personally, think twice about cutting out and
replacing the bricks that are close to the tiled roof ( third pic of
original post). I would be afraid that they might disrupt the return on
the render of the underside of the roof slate/ tiles and adjoining
bricks as they are close to the end of the courses of brick..If it were
me i would just reface these as they don't seem that bad. As they are
high up I don't think anyone would notice any mis matching , although I
think it would be important to keep the brick line. If it were me like
i would make up the brick faces, let em go off a bit , cut too size-
let em dry and then repoint as if they were the original bricks,. The
refacing of the bricks would be done with cement dye to try and match
colour, as with the pointing.
I am not a professional so its just my opinon.

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Lobster
 
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Anna Kettle wrote:

It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has
spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the
brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's
the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some
mortar?


Limewash it. You'd probably want to tint the limewash with some brick
dust


That's interesting. As an aside, a few months back I was trying to make
good some red-brick house walls (early 1900's) from which the
subsequently-applied render had been removed leaving a grubby grey
residue. I tried brick acid on it but that was a non-starter (5 minutes
and a lot of elbow grease per brick for only a fair result) and wimped
out of sand-blasting because an expert (now I think about it, it was
you, Anna, who put me on to him!) reckoned it would wreck the bricks.
So I just left it all alone and hope that the muck will weather away
eventually. But I did wonder about trying to cover it up - would your
brick-dust-treated limewash work? Never used limewash, how long would
it stay on an external wall? Wouldn't it just wash off?

David
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Lobster
 
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Anna Kettle wrote:

I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job:
http://tinyurl.com/4pm6g


Every time I use mine I curse its design. Yes it is great having
widely separated feet and a tabletop to put things on but how about
the four sets of nuts and washers and wingnuts which have to be fixed
in position around ladder and standoff while the ladder is propped up
and over something and the standoff is balanced on top of it cos if
the ladder is laid flat you can't get at the nuts. After the job is
over the standoff cum ladder contraption is too awkwardly bulky to
store so it all has to be taken apart and the nuts and washers and
wingnuts and standoff connected together again cos if I don't then
they will have gone walkabout before I need to use the standoff again

Must have been designed by a man

Sits back and waits for outrage


I'm *totally* outraged...!

Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair
(see link above)? (Mine, by extrapolation, must have been designed by a
woman!). It only has two wingnuts to attach it and they really aren't
at all fiddly - have to say when I first saw it, I thought it would
never be safe and secure enough, but it is. Yours sounds more like my
roof-ladder attachment, which I agree is a right palaver to rig up.

Thinking about it, I have to say one disadvantage of the standoff is
that if you have a long ladder like mine it's damned awkward to stand it
up; I find mine unweildy enough anyway, without the presence of a bulky
extra weight right at the top!

David
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ty, nice tip for the archive there.

NT

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Anna Kettle
 
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:22:31 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

wimped
out of sand-blasting because an expert (now I think about it, it was
you, Anna, who put me on to him!)


That was rash of me. Generally when people mention sand blasting in my
hearing it is cos they want to remove paint and varnish from old
timbers. I throw my hands up in horror and say "Crunchie bar". In
future I will throw my hands up in horror when they mention brick and
sandblasting too

reckoned it would wreck the bricks.
So I just left it all alone and hope that the muck will weather away
eventually. But I did wonder about trying to cover it up - would your
brick-dust-treated limewash work? Never used limewash, how long would
it stay on an external wall? Wouldn't it just wash off?


I suppose so, but then you would have a painted brick wall - or would
you have the patience to paint each brick separately? Limewash
normally needs to be redone perhaps every 5-10 years depending on
exposure to the weather, though if you can colourmatch well to the
bricks then I spex you could get away with relimewashing less
frequently as you wouldn't need the perfect finish of a limewashed
wall. If applied correctly then limewash doesn't wash off as a one way
chemical reaction occurs as the lime sets.

As another possibility you could look up "tuck pointing" which is a
tried and tested method of tarting up old brickwork. The one time I
looked carefully at some tuck pointing I reckoned that close to it
didn't look very nice but that could have just been a poor example.
The general idea is to sharpen up the pointing with coloured lime
mortar to give the bricks more definition

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642


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Anna Kettle
 
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:31:35 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair
(see link above)?


Just checked the URL and yes you do have a different one - yours
wasn't available when I bought mine about a year ago. The one I bought
is the "Ladder Stay" on the same page

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642
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al
 
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wrote in message
ups.com...
You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i

think
clear sealant.


This would trap water content, causing brick spalling. Not recommended.
It also makes damp problems much worse. This is a very common mistake.


Going slightly off the original topic ... but I want to paint the floor
(concrete) and walls (bare brick one side, pebble-dash rendering on the
other) of my garage this spring. The bare bricks and floor in particular I
get the impression will just drink paint as I would imagine they're quite
porous.

Would what you suggested above be the best primer to seal it before painting
or is there something else better suited to the job?




a


  #33   Report Post  
 
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Garage floor paint.
Actually the commercial concrete floor paints are much better.


NT

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al
 
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wrote in message
oups.com...
Garage floor paint.
Actually the commercial concrete floor paints are much better.


Do you need to prime that first or is it a single coat finish?



a


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Lobster
 
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Anna Kettle wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:31:35 GMT, Lobster
wrote:


Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic affair
(see link above)?


Just checked the URL and yes you do have a different one - yours
wasn't available when I bought mine about a year ago. The one I bought
is the "Ladder Stay" on the same page


Actually, I just spotted mine in the garage just now - my memory was
failing me: mine attaches to the ladder by just a single knurled hand
wheel; dead quick and easy. I was really surprised how rigidly it mounts
TBH. I think you'd find it a real revelation after yours!

David


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Lobster
 
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Lobster wrote:
Anna Kettle wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:31:35 GMT, Lobster
wrote:


Sounds like you have a different model to mine - a black plastic
affair (see link above)?



Just checked the URL and yes you do have a different one - yours
wasn't available when I bought mine about a year ago. The one I bought
is the "Ladder Stay" on the same page


Actually, I just spotted mine in the garage just now - my memory was
failing me: mine attaches to the ladder by just a single knurled hand
wheel; dead quick and easy. I was really surprised how rigidly it mounts
TBH. I think you'd find it a real revelation after yours!


http://www.haxnicks.co.uk/direct/laddermax.asp shows my Screwfix one in
action, in case you're interested!

David
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