Emulsion spots: removing from worktops
 

Just bought a house.

The seller has emulsioned the kitchen ceiling prior to putting the
property on the market (heavy smoker?). They have done a slap dash job:

* Loads of white emulsion spots on the kitchen worktops, sink, tiles
etc. -- best way I have found is to scrape off with my fingernail, then
wipe.

* They have painted *over* the light fittings! Some of the electrical
switches do not work because the paint has jammed the switch. I have
scraped of with a screwdriver where possible.

* Painting over tiles -- sloppy painting of edges, so that some tile
edges have been painted over. Again, scraping with a knife or
screwdriver where possible.
Any more tips for removing emulsion drips/spots?

bruce

Varying the pressure depending on the hardness of the surface in question,
get one of those stainless steel knitted balls for getting heavy duty crud
of woks, oven tins etc. They get virtually anything off anything but go
easy on melamine, worktops, tables etc.

+++++++++++++++==
wrote in message
oups.com...
Just bought a house.

The seller has emulsioned the kitchen ceiling prior to putting the
property on the market (heavy smoker?). They have done a slap dash job:

* Loads of white emulsion spots on the kitchen worktops, sink, tiles
etc. -- best way I have found is to scrape off with my fingernail, then
wipe.

* They have painted *over* the light fittings! Some of the electrical
switches do not work because the paint has jammed the switch. I have
scraped of with a screwdriver where possible.

* Painting over tiles -- sloppy painting of edges, so that some tile
edges have been painted over. Again, scraping with a knife or
screwdriver where possible.
Any more tips for removing emulsion drips/spots?

bruce

wrote in message
oups.com...
Just bought a house.

The seller has emulsioned the kitchen ceiling prior to putting the
property on the market (heavy smoker?). They have done a slap dash job:

* Loads of white emulsion spots on the kitchen worktops, sink, tiles
etc. -- best way I have found is to scrape off with my fingernail, then
wipe.

* They have painted *over* the light fittings! Some of the electrical
switches do not work because the paint has jammed the switch. I have
scraped of with a screwdriver where possible.

* Painting over tiles -- sloppy painting of edges, so that some tile
edges have been painted over. Again, scraping with a knife or
screwdriver where possible.
Any more tips for removing emulsion drips/spots?

I have used this method in the aerospace industry, where scratches _really_
matter.
Try and find a thin piece of springy steel. I used one that was about 30mm
wide. The banding used on some packaging works well. If it is narrow (less
than 12mm) then make the tool shorter. You need a lot of downward pressure
for it to work.
Shape the cutting end by filing/sanding etc to an angle of about 30 degrees,
a bit like a chisel Round the corners slightly and then turn it over and
remove any burrs (sharp edges) by rubbing it flat against what ever you are
using to form the angle on the end. (very much like you sharpen a chisel.)
Check for any burrs by using a finger nail by scratching the tip from behind
the sharp edge towards it. Be sure that there are no burrs, as these will
scratch anything that you use the scraper on. This part is very important.

Wrap the non cutting end with plenty of any tape you have, this will prevent
you damaging your hand.

By holding this in the palm of your hand, index finger on the top, keep a
downward pressure with the bevel uppermost and pushing towards any deposits.
By ensuring that the cutting edge is kept very low, you will remove them
with ease and it should not scratch the surface. When the tip gets blunt
(usually after quite a lot of use, just re-sharpen as above and continue. A
blunt tip will cause scratches.

If you can't find any springy steel, use a narrow chisel instead, but make
sure it is sharp and keep the bevel uppermost, as above. Above all, keep the
chisel very low (handle touching the surface). Works a treat, but look out
for the corners scratching..

Last word, try doing this on a scrap piece of plastic first. If you get to
the point where you leave no trace, then move onto the surface that you want
to scrape.

HTH

Dave

Try using an (old) credit card - just the right hardness for scraping
emulsion off worktops, especially if the spots are soaked first to soften
them.


"Dave" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Just bought a house.

The seller has emulsioned the kitchen ceiling prior to putting the
property on the market (heavy smoker?). They have done a slap dash job:

* Loads of white emulsion spots on the kitchen worktops, sink, tiles
etc. -- best way I have found is to scrape off with my fingernail, then
wipe.

"Dave" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Just bought a house.

The seller has emulsioned the kitchen ceiling prior to putting the
property on the market (heavy smoker?). They have done a slap dash job:

* Loads of white emulsion spots on the kitchen worktops, sink, tiles
etc. -- best way I have found is to scrape off with my fingernail, then
wipe.

* They have painted *over* the light fittings! Some of the electrical
switches do not work because the paint has jammed the switch. I have
scraped of with a screwdriver where possible.

* Painting over tiles -- sloppy painting of edges, so that some tile
edges have been painted over. Again, scraping with a knife or
screwdriver where possible.
Any more tips for removing emulsion drips/spots?

There are stanley style knife blade holders for removing paint from glass.
It would work on the tiles, and should be OK on worktop, as long as you keep
it horizontal, and you buy a good blade for it (not the bendy metal thing
that comes with it). Thinking about it though, you could curve the pointy
ends up on the cheapo blade to avoid scratches.

Bob

Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

There are stanley style knife blade holders for removing paint from glass.
It would work on the tiles, and should be OK on worktop, as long as you keep
it horizontal, and you buy a good blade for it (not the bendy metal thing
that comes with it). Thinking about it though, you could curve the pointy
ends up on the cheapo blade to avoid scratches.

Depends on the worktop - would work for flat shiny worktops, but it
doesn't if you have the slightly stippled, matt finish which a lot of
worktops now have as they wear better than the shiny sort. For those
(as I found out last week!) the best bet is IMHO the green scouring pad.

David

Good idea. Even when I have loosened the emulsion spots, though, they
still stick to the worktop and are buggers to clean off completely!
Bruce