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-   -   Honeywell 2 port valve problem (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/8262-honeywell-2-port-valve-problem.html)

Andy Morris April 29th 04 10:30 AM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 
Hi, I just wondered if anyone knows the answer to this one?

I have a 4043H1056 valve that does not automatically shut when power is
removed.
The spring return seems to have failed. - Does this require a whole new
valve unit, or can just the actuator be replaced?
I mean is the spring part of the valve, or part of the drop on actuator
block?

( Because the vavle does not close, the pump is always on and boiler is
always on due to the micro switch I guess? ).

Also, the manual lever on the valve does not seem to grab anything. There is
no resistance for moving it, and it just stays without the need for locking.
(and does not close the valve either).

Thanks,

Andy (Very hot because he can't turn his central heating off if he wants
hot water) ;-)

---

To reply personally rather than through the news server please delete
NO-SPAM from the sender address.



Derryck Croker April 29th 04 10:56 AM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 
In article , Andy Morris at
wrote on 29/4/04 10:30:

I have a 4043H1056 valve that does not automatically shut when power is
removed.
The spring return seems to have failed. - Does this require a whole new
valve unit, or can just the actuator be replaced?


You can buy a replacement "head" for this from a plumbers' merchant or
heating supplies shop.

It's quite easy to replace it with no risk of water loss - take the cover
off and there are two screws holding the head to the valve body. Check that
the valve itself hasn't jammed before you go shopping, if it has then you
will need to change the whole thing :-(

Also, the manual lever on the valve does not seem to grab anything. There is


Since the valve is already wide open there's nothing for it to do.

--
Cheers,

Derryck



Andy Morris April 29th 04 11:17 AM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 
Thanks a lot for a very quick response !



You can buy a replacement "head" for this from a plumbers' merchant or
heating supplies shop.

--
Cheers,

Derryck




Andy Hall April 29th 04 02:30 PM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 
On Thu, 29 Apr 2004 10:30:33 +0100, "Andy Morris"
wrote:

Hi, I just wondered if anyone knows the answer to this one?

I have a 4043H1056 valve that does not automatically shut when power is
removed.
The spring return seems to have failed. - Does this require a whole new
valve unit, or can just the actuator be replaced?
I mean is the spring part of the valve, or part of the drop on actuator
block?

( Because the vavle does not close, the pump is always on and boiler is
always on due to the micro switch I guess? ).

Also, the manual lever on the valve does not seem to grab anything. There is
no resistance for moving it, and it just stays without the need for locking.
(and does not close the valve either).

Thanks,

Andy (Very hot because he can't turn his central heating off if he wants
hot water) ;-)


It's more likely, but not definitely the valve base. Try taking the
head off and checking rotation of the motor - let it run
electrically, not with a screwdriver in the slot.

Then try turning the cam of the valve base. It should turn
reasonably easily.

For a replacement, it is sometimes cheaper to buy the entire thing
than one piece.

Don't forget that if you are draining that the system needs inhibitor
when refilling.



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Harry Bloomfield April 29th 04 07:13 PM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 
Andy Morris used his keyboard to write :
Hi, I just wondered if anyone knows the answer to this one?

I have a 4043H1056 valve that does not automatically shut when power is
removed.
The spring return seems to have failed. - Does this require a whole new
valve unit, or can just the actuator be replaced?
I mean is the spring part of the valve, or part of the drop on actuator
block?


The head (actuator) can be replaced by itself, this is a fairly common
failure. The actuator will be fixed on the valve by a couple of screws
and from past experience, it is likely that removing it from the valve
will allow it to spring return to its proper location.

It should be possible to turn the valve spindle fairly easily with just
your fingers, as a check that the valve is not the cause of the
problem.

--


--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org


geoff April 29th 04 09:29 PM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 
In message , Andy Morris
writes
Hi, I just wondered if anyone knows the answer to this one?

I have a 4043H1056 valve that does not automatically shut when power is
removed.
The spring return seems to have failed. - Does this require a whole new
valve unit, or can just the actuator be replaced?
I mean is the spring part of the valve, or part of the drop on actuator
block?

( Because the vavle does not close, the pump is always on and boiler is
always on due to the micro switch I guess? ).

Also, the manual lever on the valve does not seem to grab anything. There is
no resistance for moving it, and it just stays without the need for locking.
(and does not close the valve either).


It depends on the age of the actuator. On some older (Honeywell) ones
you cannot remove the actuator head, on the newer ones you can.

Once the spring has gone soft, there's not much you can do with the
actuator head.

--
geoff

Alan James April 30th 04 09:55 AM

Honeywell 2 port valve problem
 

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Andy Morris
writes
Hi, I just wondered if anyone knows the answer to this one?

I have a 4043H1056 valve that does not automatically shut when power is
removed.
The spring return seems to have failed. - Does this require a whole new
valve unit, or can just the actuator be replaced?
I mean is the spring part of the valve, or part of the drop on actuator
block?

( Because the vavle does not close, the pump is always on and boiler is
always on due to the micro switch I guess? ).


This indicates the valve is not even starting to close since the microswitch
only makes in the last degrees of travel. Possibly the contacts have
welded.

Also, the manual lever on the valve does not seem to grab anything. There

is
no resistance for moving it, and it just stays without the need for

locking.
(and does not close the valve either).


That's normal when the valve is open.


It depends on the age of the actuator. On some older (Honeywell) ones
you cannot remove the actuator head, on the newer ones you can.

Once the spring has gone soft, there's not much you can do with the
actuator head.

Since the microswitch is not opening I would suspect stiction in a rotating
part (motor or valve) rather than the spring going soft. If you get the
actuator head off the valve should rotate freely.

Alan




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