Compression slip couplers
 

Recently I needed a compression slip coupler to replace some CH
pipework in a relly confined space with zero slack in the pipes
themselves and too much heat-sensitive stuff nearby to allow my limited
soldering skills to be used. A long (repair-type) slip coupler would
not have worked because there wasn't enough of a straight pipe run to
put it on. I ended up taking a normal straight compression coupler to
an engineering shop and asked them to remove the pipe stop on a lathe.


Isn't there *anyone* who stocks simple straight compression slip
couplers ? Seems to me there'd be a ready market for them for use in
tight spots.

Medallion Man wrote:

Recently I needed a compression slip coupler to replace some CH
pipework in a relly confined space with zero slack in the pipes
themselves and too much heat-sensitive stuff nearby to allow my limited
soldering skills to be used. A long (repair-type) slip coupler would
not have worked because there wasn't enough of a straight pipe run to
put it on. I ended up taking a normal straight compression coupler to
an engineering shop and asked them to remove the pipe stop on a lathe.


Isn't there *anyone* who stocks simple straight compression slip
couplers ? Seems to me there'd be a ready market for them for use in
tight spots.

I second that, in order to move a bathroom connection I had to take the
floor up in a adjacent bedroom, cut the pipe, withdraw it, remake the
joint, push it back under then join my cut. An hours job took most the day.

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 09:00:44 -0800, Medallion Man wrote:

Recently I needed a compression slip coupler to replace some CH
pipework in a relly confined space with zero slack in the pipes
themselves and too much heat-sensitive stuff nearby to allow my limited
soldering skills to be used. A long (repair-type) slip coupler would
not have worked because there wasn't enough of a straight pipe run to
put it on. I ended up taking a normal straight compression coupler to
an engineering shop and asked them to remove the pipe stop on a lathe.


Isn't there *anyone* who stocks simple straight compression slip
couplers ? Seems to me there'd be a ready market for them for use in
tight spots.


I was surprised not to find them in the BES catalogue. I'm fairly sure
that slip couplings are available as Endfeed solder fittings.

I've not tried it but drilling out the stop in the fitting out to 15mm
should be fairly straight forward.

When I'm forced with this situation I've found that with careful
cutting of the lengths of the pipe you only need the insertion depth
for one side, approx.
You put the back nuts and olives on first and then get the fitting on.
Then carefully arrange the slack to be split between each side.
There should be enough pipe past each olive to get a good reliable join.

If there is absolutely no slack whatsoever then, as happened to me a year
or two ago you have to go right around with 4 of elbows.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Ed Sirett wrote:
I've not tried it but drilling out the stop in the fitting out to
15mm
should be fairly straight forward.

Dunno - you'd need a bench drill to do it. Even so, I was struggling
with 22mm pipes :-(

Then carefully arrange the slack to be split between each side.
There should be enough pipe past each olive to get a good reliable
join.

There wasn't any slack, the usable length of pipe was only about 140mm,
and 80mm of that was taken up with a valve.

If there is absolutely no slack whatsoever then, as happened to me a
year
or two ago you have to go right around with 4 of elbows.
Just trying to visualize that - what do you mean ?

"Medallion Man" wrote in message
oups.com...

Ed Sirett wrote:
I've not tried it but drilling out the stop in the fitting out to
15mm
should be fairly straight forward.

Dunno - you'd need a bench drill to do it. Even so, I was struggling
with 22mm pipes :-(

snip
==============
An adjustable hand reamer should do this job quite easily. Many garages will
have such a reamer left over from the days of reaming kingpin bushes and if
not any good tool shop will sell one - at a price!

Cic.

On 13 Dec 2004 04:59:01 -0800, "Medallion Man"
strung together this:

If there is absolutely no slack whatsoever then, as happened to me a
year
or two ago you have to go right around with 4 of elbows.

Just trying to visualize that - what do you mean ?


Fixed font time!

This,

XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
X X
X X
XXXXXXXXXX

As opposed to this,

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lurch wrote:

On 13 Dec 2004 04:59:01 -0800, "Medallion Man"
strung together this:

If there is absolutely no slack whatsoever then, as happened to me a
year
or two ago you have to go right around with 4 of elbows.

Just trying to visualize that - what do you mean ?


Fixed font time!

This,

XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
X X
X X
XXXXXXXXXX

As opposed to this,

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX



Or even a complete loop, like this?

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Z
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Z X
X X
XXXXX

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Medallion Man wrote:

There wasn't any slack, the usable length of pipe was only about 140mm,
and 80mm of that was taken up with a valve.

I think the "slack" to which Ed refered was created by cutting the gap
for the fitting such that the pipe was actually a bit short of what you
would normally expect (i.e. when in place the pipe ends will not
protrude much past the olive into the fitting). The only time this would
not work would be if you could not get any latteral movement in the
pipes to allow you to get the fittting on the first pipe.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
Medallion Man wrote:

There wasn't any slack, the usable length of pipe was only about 140mm,
and 80mm of that was taken up with a valve.

I think the "slack" to which Ed refered was created by cutting the gap
for the fitting such that the pipe was actually a bit short of what you
would normally expect (i.e. when in place the pipe ends will not
protrude much past the olive into the fitting). The only time this would
not work would be if you could not get any latteral movement in the
pipes to allow you to get the fittting on the first pipe.


You have to be careful though: I recently had a compression elbow in
the kitchen where the olive had been (30 years ago) crimped over the end
of the pipe. Of course I couldn't reseal it, had to dremel off the
olive and solder as I couldn't cut the pipe back, with only 30mm
sticking out of the wall. TO make it more fun the next joint upstream
is in the cavity of the original outside wall.


--
Spamtrap in use
To email replace 127.0.0.1 with blueyonder dot co dot uk

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 17:09:01 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Medallion Man wrote:

There wasn't any slack, the usable length of pipe was only about 140mm,
and 80mm of that was taken up with a valve.

I think the "slack" to which Ed refered was created by cutting the gap
for the fitting such that the pipe was actually a bit short of what you
would normally expect (i.e. when in place the pipe ends will not
protrude much past the olive into the fitting). The only time this would
not work would be if you could not get any latteral movement in the
pipes to allow you to get the fittting on the first pipe.

Thanks that's what I meant to say 8-).


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"Medallion Man" wrote in message
ups.com...
Recently I needed a compression slip coupler to replace some CH
pipework in a relly confined space with zero slack in the pipes
themselves and too much heat-sensitive stuff nearby to allow my limited
soldering skills to be used. A long (repair-type) slip coupler would
not have worked because there wasn't enough of a straight pipe run to
put it on. I ended up taking a normal straight compression coupler to
an engineering shop and asked them to remove the pipe stop on a lathe.


Isn't there *anyone* who stocks simple straight compression slip
couplers ? Seems to me there'd be a ready market for them for use in
tight spots.


====================
If anybody is interested...............

Further to my earlier post (13/12/04 @ 14:07) about reaming out 22mm
compression fittings to create compression slip couplers. I've just tried
this using an old adjustable reamer - sized 25/32" to 27/32" - 19.75mm to
22mm) and it works perfectly for the 22mm size. I haven't got a 15mm reamer
so can't test but I see no reason why it shouldn't work as well with the
correct reamer.

Thanks to 'Medallion Man' for raising the subject. I was wondering how to
avoid the 'Round the Wrekin' solution suggested by an earlier poster.

Cic.

Cicero wrote:
Further to my earlier post (13/12/04 @ 14:07) about reaming out 22mm
compression fittings to create compression slip couplers. I've just
tried
this using an old adjustable reamer - sized 25/32" to 27/32" -
19.75mm to
22mm) and it works perfectly for the 22mm size. I haven't got a 15mm
reamer
so can't test but I see no reason why it shouldn't work as well with
the
correct reamer.

That changes the nature of the problem from finding a machine shop to
modify the couplings to finding a tool shop which stocks the right size
of adjustable reamer. On a Friday afternoon in a one-horse town while
the CH system is in bits. I think what I'll do instead is to buy five
each of 15mm and 22mm couplings, go back to that machine shop and pay
them a tenner to remove the pipe stops. Should make a lifetime supply
;-)

"Medallion Man" wrote in message
oups.com...
Cicero wrote:
Further to my earlier post (13/12/04 @ 14:07) about reaming out 22mm
compression fittings to create compression slip couplers. I've just
tried
this using an old adjustable reamer - sized 25/32" to 27/32" -
19.75mm to
22mm) and it works perfectly for the 22mm size. I haven't got a 15mm
reamer
so can't test but I see no reason why it shouldn't work as well with
the
correct reamer.

That changes the nature of the problem from finding a machine shop to
modify the couplings to finding a tool shop which stocks the right size
of adjustable reamer. On a Friday afternoon in a one-horse town while
the CH system is in bits. I think what I'll do instead is to buy five
each of 15mm and 22mm couplings, go back to that machine shop and pay
them a tenner to remove the pipe stops. Should make a lifetime supply
;-)


==============
Alternatively you could buy the correct sizes of reamers from:
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk

Both sizes come at about £21-00 (for both) which seems like good value for
tools with a lifetime use.

Cic.