"John Kelly" wrote in message
...
I've done a search on google groups and can't find an answer so....

I want to use some real wood flooring - the type that fits together like
laminate but is solid wood so can be sanded and varnished. Anyone used
some? Does it need a 10mm expansion gap around the room or can it be
fitted snug to the walls?

I have heard that instead of removing the skirting boards and refitting, it
is also
not unusual to leave the skirting in place, leave an expansion gap, and hide
it by fitting 1/2" quadrant beading to the skirting. Not for the
perfectionists though!

Andy.

real wood flooring
 

I've done a search on google groups and can't find an answer so....

I want to use some real wood flooring - the type that fits together like
laminate but is solid wood so can be sanded and varnished. Anyone used
some? Does it need a 10mm expansion gap around the room or can it be
fitted snug to the walls?

TIA

--
John Kelly

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John Kelly wrote:
I want to use some real wood flooring - the type that fits together like
laminate but is solid wood so can be sanded and varnished. Anyone used
some?

Yes, I'm in the process of laying some in four rooms.

Does it need a 10mm expansion gap around the room or can it be
fitted snug to the walls?

10mm expansion gap, just like laminate. You'll need to remove skirting,
fit floor with expansion gap, and refit skirting for best results.

Oh, and if you haven't already chosen the flooring, I can highly
recommend getting the interlocking variety (e.g. Kahrs). Being a
cheapskate, I chose some plain tongue and grooved boards that need to be
glued, and while it's not a major job, it's certainly a lot slower to
lay them...

--
Tony

Do a good job and take the skirting boards off, leave a small gap and there
you go.No visible gap!!
John Kelly wrote in message
...
I've done a search on google groups and can't find an answer so....

I want to use some real wood flooring - the type that fits together like
laminate but is solid wood so can be sanded and varnished. Anyone used
some? Does it need a 10mm expansion gap around the room or can it be
fitted snug to the walls?

TIA

--
John Kelly

Remove dimspam if replying by mail

I chose some plain tongue and grooved boards that need to be
glued, and while it's not a major job, it's certainly a lot slower to
lay them...

Glue?
Are you saying that you glue t+g wooden boards together.
By 'eck, the job's changed since I were a youngster!
We used to secret nail or cut clasp (if the floor were to be covered)
Showing me age I suppose.
Nick.

John Kelly wrote:

I've done a search on google groups and can't find an answer so....

I want to use some real wood flooring - the type that fits together like
laminate but is solid wood so can be sanded and varnished. Anyone used
some? Does it need a 10mm expansion gap around the room or can it be
fitted snug to the walls?

I used Kahrs, and it needs that expansion gap. Use either skirting or a
cork strip.

It came pre-finished.

It isn't 'solid' wood, its a mahined ply with a thick hardwood veneer.



TIA

John Kelly wrote:

I've done a search on google groups and can't find an answer so....

I want to use some real wood flooring - the type that fits together
like laminate but is solid wood so can be sanded and varnished.
Anyone used some? Does it need a 10mm expansion gap around the
room or can it be fitted snug to the walls?

I used Bruce Coastal Woodlands 10mm thick boards with a 2mm hardwood
top layer, which can be sanded and re-finished in future if necessary.
The glued T&G installation was tedious because it needed a lot of
hammering to get tight joints - in fact the plastic tapping block was
wrecked by the time I was half way through, and it was easy to bruise
the edges once the block was worn. End board joints are still visible
to me, but everyone who sees it says how good the finished job looks.
I'm not sure I'd use it again, but maybe the problem's peculiar to
Bruce boards. I took the skirtings off and refitted them over the
expansion gap, by the way.

Rob

Nick wrote:
I chose some plain tongue and grooved boards that need to be
glued...

Glue?
Are you saying that you glue t+g wooden boards together.
By 'eck, the job's changed since I were a youngster!
We used to secret nail or cut clasp (if the floor were to be covered)

Not floorboards... engineered wooden flooring, laid as a floating floor
on underlay over a concrete screed. And at the price, I'd have to be
nuts to cover it with anything :-)

When I said 'plain' I meant that the t+g was plain, instead of the
interlocking design used on most engineered and laminate floors these
days. Although, since some of it's in a kitchen area, I think the
sealing effect of the glue will better protect against the inevitable
small spills.

--
Tony

Thanks folks. Skirting boards/architrave off already so ready to go...

--
John Kelly

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