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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Just thought I would re-iterate my love for Speedfit.
I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. I have made many successful soldered joints. However I have made at least the same number of unsuccessful ones, and they are generally a b*ggger to fix once the water has been turned on and off again. I was using compression joints prior to discovering Speedfit. .. I have just fitted a few compression joints in an area where I wanted to use copper because it is stronger than plastic and I wanted it to be self supporting. [Also I had run out of Speedfit joints and had some legacy compression joints] It all worked, but took ages, plus two spanners and a load of PTFE tape. One joint leaked a little, but was cured by undoing and re-fitting with extra PTFE round the thread plus some PTFE round the olive. Compare this to Speedfit: Snip pipe Insert ends Push into joints Job done, no leaks. Our old plumber, with his trusty blow lamp and moleskin for sweating lead pipes (done that too, a couple of times) may be turning in his grave. However, let us lift a brimming glass to John Guest and Speedfit - saviours of the marginally incompetent! Cheers Dave R -- |
#2
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I LOVE Speedfit!
In article , David W.E.
Roberts writes . I have just fitted a few compression joints in an area where I wanted to use copper because it is stronger than plastic and I wanted it to be self supporting. [Also I had run out of Speedfit joints and had some legacy compression joints] It all worked, but took ages, plus two spanners and a load of PTFE tape. One joint leaked a little, but was cured by undoing and re-fitting with extra PTFE round the thread plus some PTFE round the olive. I found that using PTFE tape on compression joints makes them leak more rather than less, so I stopped using it. Subsequently I have got into soldering instead. -- Tim Mitchell |
#3
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Tim Mitchell wrote:
I found that using PTFE tape on compression joints makes them leak more rather than less, so I stopped using it. There's really no reason to put PTFE or any goop on compression joints - it's a metal/metal seal. -- Grunff |
#4
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I LOVE Speedfit!
In article ,
David W.E. Roberts wrote: I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. Then you must be doing something awfully wrong - it's hardly rocket science and only takes minutes to master. I have made many successful soldered joints. However I have made at least the same number of unsuccessful ones, and they are generally a b*ggger to fix once the water has been turned on and off again. So did you ever wonder what was the difference? I've only ever had one joint leak out of hundreds, and that turned out to be a faulty end feed fitting - it had a pin hole in it. -- *When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#5
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... Just thought I would re-iterate my love for Speedfit. I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. I have made many successful soldered joints. However I have made at least the same number of unsuccessful ones, and they are generally a b*ggger to fix once the water has been turned on and off again. I was using compression joints prior to discovering Speedfit. . I have just fitted a few compression joints in an area where I wanted to use copper because it is stronger than plastic and I wanted it to be self supporting. [Also I had run out of Speedfit joints and had some legacy compression joints] It all worked, but took ages, plus two spanners and a load of PTFE tape. One joint leaked a little, but was cured by undoing and re-fitting with extra PTFE round the thread plus some PTFE round the olive. Compare this to Speedfit: Snip pipe Insert ends Push into joints Job done, no leaks. Our old plumber, with his trusty blow lamp and moleskin for sweating lead pipes (done that too, a couple of times) may be turning in his grave. However, let us lift a brimming glass to John Guest and Speedfit - saviours of the marginally incompetent! Marley make a better system. If you are kak handed and can't solder, then try using cheap copper pipe and brass push-fit fitting. Cheaper to install than using all Speedfit. What is it? Speedfit are now in another fitting re-design and Hep2O in about the 3rd or 4th. Plastic is no panacea get that clear. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#6
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"Dave Plowman" wrote in message ... In article , David W.E. Roberts wrote: I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. Then you must be doing something awfully wrong - it's hardly rocket science and only takes minutes to master. Bear in mind that this is a personal opinion. You find it easy. I don't. I have made many successful soldered joints. However I have made at least the same number of unsuccessful ones, and they are generally a b*ggger to fix once the water has been turned on and off again. So did you ever wonder what was the difference? No, no mate - never gave it a thought. Didn't even consider I might be doing it wrong. WOW! Flash of inspiration. Hey - why don't you get a job as a motivational speaker. I bet you'd wow the crowds with your deep insights! I've only ever had one joint leak out of hundreds, and that turned out to be a faulty end feed fitting - it had a pin hole in it. -- *When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#7
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"BillR" wrote in message ... David W.E. Roberts wrote: Just thought I would re-iterate my love for Speedfit. I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. I have made many successful soldered joints. However I have made at least the same number of unsuccessful ones, and they are generally a b*ggger to fix once the water has been turned on and off again. snip However, let us lift a brimming glass to John Guest and Speedfit - saviours of the marginally incompetent! Cheers Dave R I love speedfit too but tend to solder where the pipe is exposed and I want it to look neater or more compact. The secret of getting a solder joint right 1st time imho is a) clean pipe and inside fittings with wire wool. Ignore how clean or new they look, just do it. b) use flux. If its had water in it already and it can't be made perfectly dry, I use compression. Yep - tried that - always used the trusty wire wool and then flux. My problem was I could never get the heating quite right. I tried various high and low heat nozzles on my Gaz blow lamp, but to no avail. Heating the pipe near the joint, heating the joint, heating away from the joint for a slower raise in temperature. There seemed to be about a microsecond between no solder and the 'spifzz' as the ring of solder spat out of the yorkshire joint. Usually ended up tinning the end of the copper pipe with solder and then easing gently in. Used a load of solder but usually worked in the end. As you say, those that leaked were often easier to replace with compression. After a while I decided that the general trauma of trying to solder plus the time wasted justified using compression joints for everything. I also found it much easier to dis-assemble and re-assemble compression fittings. Now I have started using the push fit joints and they seem so far ahead of compresssion joints that they will be my joint of choice in future (until/unless various dire predictions on this thread come to pass). Thanks Dave R |
#8
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... Now I have started using the push fit joints and they seem so far ahead of compresssion joints Push-fit are no match for compressions joints. There is some junk out there. but a good quality compression fitting will last eons. It is a firm well made joint of metal to metal. 50-60 years ago people were saying the same about compression that you are saying about push-fit, in praising their cold fitting ease of use, speed in installation, etc, but reservations over longevity and high fitting cost. Over the 60 years that compression has become widespread they have been proven a success....and cheaper than push-fit. Let's see if many push-fit fitting are still around in 60 years time. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#9
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in
: Heating the pipe near the joint, heating the joint, heating away from the joint for a slower raise in temperature. There seemed to be about a microsecond between no solder and the 'spifzz' as the ring of solder spat out of the yorkshire joint. Usually ended up tinning the end of the copper pipe with solder and then easing gently in. Used a load of solder but usually worked in the end. You may have missed one essential - apologies if you haven't - and that is to make sure the end of the run is open to the air. If there's a tap or valve, make sure it's open, if not the expanding air due to heat will blow out the joint. You can also tlerate some water not too close if there is no chance for a pressure build up HTH mike r |
#10
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Speedfit has its advantages, but under floor boards I would still
rather have a soldered joint. Mind you, I wouldn't trust compression fittings under boards either. I love speedfit as well but last year I used some 22mm speedfit tank connectors and the pipes kept leaking unless the pipe was totally square to the fitting. After much headache I ended up having to use compression fittings. I'm going to be running some speedfit in a couple of bathrooms soon but am going to make sure that any connections are not boxed in. Another thing that concerns me is the super seal pipe insert with the extra rubber seal - why is this needed if the normal connection is so good? |
#11
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I LOVE Speedfit!
StealthUK wrote:
Speedfit has its advantages, but under floor boards I would still rather have a soldered joint. Mind you, I wouldn't trust compression fittings under boards either. I love speedfit as well but last year I used some 22mm speedfit tank connectors and the pipes kept leaking unless the pipe was totally square to the fitting. Do you mean the grey tank connectors? I used JG SpeedFit throughout my house, and had no leaks at all, except from the tank connector - which *wasn't made by JG* - they are made by someone else, and they are truly crap. The O-ring is nearly a mm too big (and no, they aren't sold as imperial connectors). -- Grunff |
#13
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"Mike Ring" wrote in message 52.50... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in : Heating the pipe near the joint, heating the joint, heating away from the joint for a slower raise in temperature. There seemed to be about a microsecond between no solder and the 'spifzz' as the ring of solder spat out of the yorkshire joint. Usually ended up tinning the end of the copper pipe with solder and then easing gently in. Used a load of solder but usually worked in the end. You may have missed one essential - apologies if you haven't - and that is to make sure the end of the run is open to the air. If there's a tap or valve, make sure it's open, if not the expanding air due to heat will blow out the joint. You can also tlerate some water not too close if there is no chance for a pressure build up HTH mike r Mike, good point, thanks, but my soldering incompetence is far more generalised :-) Cheers Dave R |
#14
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Dave Plowman wrote:
Then you must be doing something awfully wrong - it's hardly rocket science and only takes minutes to master. Be that as it may some people can't solder. |
#15
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I LOVE Speedfit!
IMM wrote:
Marley make a better system. If you are kak handed and can't solder, then try using cheap copper pipe and brass push-fit fitting. Cheaper to install than using all Speedfit. What is it? Speedfit are now in another fitting re-design and Hep2O in about the 3rd or 4th. Plastic is no panacea get that clear. If plastic pipe is good enough for Steve & Norm its good enough for me. |
#16
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I LOVE Speedfit!
On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 12:38:47 +0100, "David W.E. Roberts"
wrote: I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. I found the key issue was preparing the solder joint, which means liberal use of wire wool on the pipe to be soldered, followed by a smidgen of flux before bringing the joint together. Any residual dirt on the pipe invariably leads to a poor joint. I prefer the pre-soldered elbows though. Andrew Do you need a handyman service? Check out our web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk |
#17
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I LOVE Speedfit!
In article ,
Essjay001 wrote: Then you must be doing something awfully wrong - it's hardly rocket science and only takes minutes to master. Be that as it may some people can't solder. Well, surely this group should try to help those overcome their difficulties? I really don't believe *any* DIYer is incapable of learning how to do it correctly. Of course, it could be they prefer to plug an inferior product for whatever reason. -- *Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment * Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#18
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I LOVE Speedfit!
In article ,
Andrew McKay wrote: I can't solder to save my life, despite years of trying. I found the key issue was preparing the solder joint, which means liberal use of wire wool on the pipe to be soldered, followed by a smidgen of flux before bringing the joint together. While proper cleaning is a good idea, the use of an aggressive flux is belt and braces. I've tried experimenting soldering green copper using this stuff, and it made a perfect joint. Any residual dirt on the pipe invariably leads to a poor joint. I prefer the pre-soldered elbows though. I don't think they're worth the considerable additional cost. Moreover, with separate solder you're in no doubt when it melts, especially when say you can't see the back of the fitting. Oh, and end feed are neater looking. -- *Isn't it a bit unnerving that doctors call what they do "practice?" Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#19
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Of the systems widely available I settled on Hep20 which I believe became
Marley Equator. I didn't feel that others were quite as well engineered - recently in the local B and Q the (independent) plumber bloke in there said B and Q have now apparently classified Equator as the top quality although they also stock Speedfit and the copper pushfit range as well. Of the problems I have had (almost none) was some plastic swarf over the o ring in a fitting which dripped once every 10 minutes and joints where the pipes was so badly and deeply scored that I couldn't believe would have a chance of sealing and all but two did - very impressed overall Nick |
#20
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Dave Plowman wrote in message ... I prefer the pre-soldered elbows though. I don't think they're worth the considerable additional cost. Moreover, with separate solder you're in no doubt when it melts, especially when say you can't see the back of the fitting. Oh, and end feed are neater looking. But what do you do if a soldered joint does leak? How do you dry it out etc? Can you unsolder a joint by re-heating it? My pessimism in regard to my own joints is such that I just assume I'll have to re-do all of them at least twice, which is why I'm more comfortable with compression fittings. Actually, most of them are spot on first time but anxiety's a funny thing. |
#21
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"froggers" wrote in message ... Of the systems widely available I settled on Hep20 which I believe became Marley Equator. No so. two separate companies and systems. I didn't feel that others were quite as well engineered - recently in the local B and Q the (independent) plumber bloke in there said B and Q have now apparently classified Equator as the top quality although they also stock Speedfit and the copper pushfit range as well. In B&Qs they stock Speedfit and Polyplumb. In B&Q Warehouses they also stock Equator. I find Equator well priced. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#22
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"Dave Plowman" wrote in message ... In article , David W.E. Roberts wrote: Heating the pipe near the joint, heating the joint, heating away from the joint for a slower raise in temperature. There seemed to be about a microsecond between no solder and the 'spifzz' as the ring of solder spat out of the yorkshire joint. You seem to love the expensive option. Non solder ring fittings are *much* cheaper, and can't 'spit the solder out'. -- *Monday is an awful way to spend 1/7th of your life * Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn I think quite a few respondents are losing sight of the DIY aspect of all this. For DIY read - "some people only do this once every year or so - or perhaps only once". I appreciate that copper is much cheaper, and that the basic 'end feed' joints can be picked up by the bag full at plumbers merchants for very little money. They are simple in construction, neat in appearance, and virtually all professional plumbers use them. For a professional, the cost saving over a job is considerable and a good soldered joint should last 100 years. Once mastered (!) the technique becomes second nature. However for the DIY person ease of use can justify a premium cost, especially if only a few units are used. As discussed in this thread, successful soldering depends on care, careful preparation, and a learned technique to get the heating of the joint just right. In certain circumstances (such as soldering under the floorboards next to joists) there is the additional risk of fire, so you have to take extra precautions. Finally you are dealing with (ouch!) heat above water boiling point. It also involves quite a bit of extra work in the situation when you realise that you haven't put the pipe work quite where it should go (or realised you should have put something else in first). Or if it turns out that your joint wasn't as good as you thought it was. If you have already filled the pipes with water your problems can be compounded by having to dry everything out first. I value the ability to quickly un-pipe runs and then re-fit them. So I think we are getting a little at cross purposes. End feed copper is cheap and proven by time, and I would suspect will still be around in another 50 years. The professionals choice. As mentioned elsewhere, when compression joints first came in the traditionalists predicted dire problems but now they are accepted. I expect that there will be more and more use of push fit joints, especially around units such as power shower pumps, where ease and speed of fitting justifies the higher component cost. Perhaps one day your average plumber will appear with a length of plastic pipe and a pair of snips and the smell of hot flux and solder will be gone forever. [O.K. I know boilers need copper close to them :-) Grant me a little poetic license.] If cost is the overriding factor then take the time to learn to use soldered copper. It is a useful technique anyway for visible joints you wish to be unobtrusive. For dedicated DIYers the technique can be as important as the end result. However if you are doing your first (and perhaps only) plumbing job then push fit joints could save you a lot of grief. What prompted the original post? I had just put together a run of four pipes which all go round one corner of the bathroom. There is a little 'nexus' with six elbow joints in a very small area. With Speedfit I just fitted whichever suited and then threaded additional pipes under/round/over the first one. Just a push, and a leak free joint. I thought 'damn, that was so easy'. And reflected on my previous forays into plumbing over the last 30 years. Which led me to the conclusion "I LOVE Speedfit!" This is an expression of a personal view, does not denigrate the use of other technologies, and freely acknowledges the right of all thinking beings to use the plumbing techniques of their choice :-)) Thanks again for all the responses. Cheers Dave R |
#23
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "IMM" wrote in message ... "StealthUK" wrote in message om... snip and unskilled cheap labour can do the fitting snip Well, yes, that is me all right :-) Some developers are experiencing far too many call backs on leaks. Some leaks are intermittent in that they leak when hot and re-seal when cool. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#24
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"IMM" wrote in message ... "StealthUK" wrote in message om... snip and unskilled cheap labour can do the fitting snip Well, yes, that is me all right :-) |
#25
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I LOVE Speedfit! - bad batch of copper pipe
"IMM" wrote in message ... snip I think quite a few respondents are losing sight of the DIY aspect of all this. For DIY read - "some people only do this once every year or so - or perhaps only once". very true!! That is why I always recommend combi's and copper pipe with brass push-fit. Brass push-fit fittings are now about the same price as plastic push-fit and copper pipe is buttons. The best by far use plastic in coils for inaccessible places where you can thread it. Yep - forgot to mention that I fell in love with plastic pipe first. I had a piece of copper fail with mains cold water. [I am told there was a very bad batch of copper many years back and this resulted in copper pipes corroding and starting to leak. We had a batch of this in our house and had several runs (including some plastered into the walls) which developed pinhole leaks which incidentally are a b*gger to trace. Had most of it replaced under the insurance, including a new plastic water main (think we may have paid for that bit).] Our main bathroom is quite small and when we had it redone we had a four piece suite fitted - a 'funiture unit' with toilet, WHB and bidet, and a seriously solid bath. The failed pipe was under this 'furniture unit' and bath and was sending a fine spray of water everywhere. Brought down a bit of the downstairs toilet ceiling. The bathroom is over our downstairs loo and the front porch. I investigated and found that because the bathroom suite had to be 'shoehorned' in the furniture unit had been fitted first, then the bath. To get out this unit I would first have to remove the bath which was all nicely tiled in - in effect I would have to gut the bathroom. Solution - get at one end of the pipe through the ceiling which had come down, and cut it out. [This was me coming up under the bath from the floor below.] Remove the other end from the cold tap in the bathroom. Leave the pipe 'in situ' because of bends etc. preventing removal. Thread bendy white plastic pipe through the maze of other pipes and fit to bathroom sink. Connect to main cold water above downstairs toilet. I didn't replace the bit of ceiling - fitted a wooden panel instead so I could get at the pipes in future if required! So the bendiness of plastic is both a problem and in some cases a distinct advantage! On reflection we should have got it done on the insurance but you don't always remember this when the downstairs loo is full of damp plaster! Still, when the rest of the pipes went, we had that done on the insurance. Ah, memories. Dave R P.S. Your house too could be full of low quality ageing copper pipe which is corroding through. Be afraid. Be very afraid. I have no idea how you identify this stuff before it goes, though :-( |
#26
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I LOVE Speedfit!
In article ,
stuart noble wrote: I don't think they're worth the considerable additional cost. Moreover, with separate solder you're in no doubt when it melts, especially when say you can't see the back of the fitting. Oh, and end feed are neater looking. But what do you do if a soldered joint does leak? The chances of this *really are* slim if you do it properly. How do you dry it out etc? Can you unsolder a joint by re-heating it? You drain down in the normal way, and simply unsolder by heating it. If it were at the bottom of a loop with water lying in it this wouldn't be possible, but then you shouldn't have such a loop anyway. But if you had, you'd simply cut if off with a pipe cutter, and extend the pipe to fit when re-making. Let's face it, pipe and end feed fittings are so cheap you don't have to worry. My pessimism in regard to my own joints is such that I just assume I'll have to re-do all of them at least twice, which is why I'm more comfortable with compression fittings. Actually, most of them are spot on first time but anxiety's a funny thing. Know what you mean, but there's far more chance of a leak with a compression fitting as it's susceptible to mechanical damage - a bad scratch or whatever - that solder would easily fill. -- *I'm already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#27
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I LOVE Speedfit! - bad batch of copper pipe
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "IMM" wrote in message ... snip I think quite a few respondents are losing sight of the DIY aspect of all this. For DIY read - "some people only do this once every year or so - or perhaps only once". very true!! That is why I always recommend combi's and copper pipe with brass push-fit. Brass push-fit fittings are now about the same price as plastic push-fit and copper pipe is buttons. The best by far use plastic in coils for inaccessible places where you can thread it. Yep - forgot to mention that I fell in love with plastic pipe first. I had a piece of copper fail with mains cold water. [I am told there was a very bad batch of copper many years back and this resulted in copper pipes corroding and starting to leak. It was mainly cheap Eastern European stuff. You got what you paid for as it was cheap. Who is to say there will not be a bad batch of plastic? Someone didn't set the control right for the right mix of plastic? I have never had copper pipe fail on me. I have only overheard rare stories from others. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#28
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"Grunff" wrote in message ... StealthUK wrote: Speedfit has its advantages, but under floor boards I would still rather have a soldered joint. Mind you, I wouldn't trust compression fittings under boards either. I love speedfit as well but last year I used some 22mm speedfit tank connectors and the pipes kept leaking unless the pipe was totally square to the fitting. Do you mean the grey tank connectors? I used JG SpeedFit throughout my house, and had no leaks at all, except from the tank connector - which *wasn't made by JG* - they are made by someone else, and they are truly crap. The O-ring is nearly a mm too big (and no, they aren't sold as imperial connectors). Are they sold by Speedfit? --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#29
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I LOVE Speedfit!
On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 11:59:58 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
They are carpenters!! Stop! Wait a minute mister Post-man....wait a minute, wait a minute, mister post-ost-ost-ost-ost-man...... Never as good as the originals. Andrew Do you need a handyman service? Check out our web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk |
#30
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I LOVE Speedfit!
IMM wrote:
Are they sold by Speedfit? No, but they are sold by B&Q and many plumbers merchants, and very often shelved with the SpeedFit range. Having said that, ScrewFix are now listing the tank connector under the SpeedFit range, so presumably those ones are SpeedFit. -- Grunff |
#31
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I LOVE Speedfit!
No so. two separate companies and systems. The Hepworth engineer went to Marley and evolved Equator..... Nick |
#32
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I LOVE Speedfit!
IMM wrote:
"Essjay001" wrote in message ... IMM wrote: Marley make a better system. If you are kak handed and can't solder, then try using cheap copper pipe and brass push-fit fitting. Cheaper to install than using all Speedfit. What is it? Speedfit are now in another fitting re-design and Hep2O in about the 3rd or 4th. Plastic is no panacea get that clear. If plastic pipe is good enough for Steve & Norm its good enough for me. They are carpenters!! You obviously the same progs as me. Steve R -- "Latest gear:- One piece one button suit extremely comfortable, perfect for Relaxation, Sports, Hiking, Swimming, a must have" OOPS sorry you have one!!! |
#33
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"froggers" wrote in message ... No so. two separate companies and systems. The Hepworth engineer went to Marley and evolved Equator..... Maybe, but still two separate systems and companies. He obviously designed out the bulkiness of Hep2o, as Equator is much smaller and neater. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#34
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"Grunff" wrote in message ... IMM wrote: Are they sold by Speedfit? No, but they are sold by B&Q and many plumbers merchants, and very often shelved with the SpeedFit range. Having said that, ScrewFix are now listing the tank connector under the SpeedFit range, so presumably those ones are SpeedFit. You say "presumably". --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
#35
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I LOVE Speedfit!
On Sun, 3 Aug 2003 04:38:28 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"froggers" wrote in message ... No so. two separate companies and systems. The Hepworth engineer went to Marley and evolved Equator..... Maybe, but still two separate systems and companies. He obviously designed out the bulkiness of Hep2o, as Equator is much smaller and neater. Is that its only claim to fame? I quite like the features that Speedfit has of the option of a pipe insert with an extra O-ring seal and the twist-lock ring. The pipe insert is also said to enable the joint to be stabilised against any sideways forces which might happen if the pipe is being fed through an awkward place. The twist lock is in addition to the normal metal mechanical securing method. It appears that Equator, from the data sheets at least, is similar technology to Hep2o. As far as appearance is concerned, Speedfit strikes me as a bit less lumpy in appearance than Hep2o. However, none of the plastic solutions would win £10 in the Monopoly beauty contest, would they? ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#36
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I LOVE Speedfit!
Essjay001 wrote:
IMM wrote: They are carpenters!! You obviously the same progs as me. Er sorry I say that again. You obviously don't watch the same progs as me. -- Steve R -- "Latest gear:- One piece one button suit extremely comfortable, perfect for Relaxation, Sports, Hiking, Swimming, a must have" OOPS sorry you have one!!! |
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I LOVE Speedfit!
"Toby" wrote in message ... IMM wrote: That is why I always recommend combi's and copper pipe with brass push-fit. Brass push-fit fittings are now about the same price as plastic push-fit and copper pipe is buttons. The best by Electrical continuity? Surely a brass push fit should be treated the same as an all plastic affair. Yes. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 05/06/2003 |
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I LOVE Speedfit! - bad batch of copper pipe
On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 13:12:55 +0100, "David W.E. Roberts"
wrote: "IMM" wrote in message ... snip I think quite a few respondents are losing sight of the DIY aspect of all this. For DIY read - "some people only do this once every year or so - or perhaps only once". very true!! That is why I always recommend combi's and copper pipe with brass push-fit. Brass push-fit fittings are now about the same price as plastic push-fit and copper pipe is buttons. The best by far use plastic in coils for inaccessible places where you can thread it. Yep - forgot to mention that I fell in love with plastic pipe first. I had a piece of copper fail with mains cold water. [I am told there was a very bad batch of copper many years back and this resulted in copper pipes corroding and starting to leak. We had a batch of this in our house and had several runs (including some plastered into the walls) which developed pinhole leaks which incidentally are a b*gger to trace. Had most of it replaced under the insurance, including a new plastic water main (think we may have paid for that bit).] Our main bathroom is quite small and when we had it redone we had a four piece suite fitted - a 'funiture unit' with toilet, WHB and bidet, and a seriously solid bath. The failed pipe was under this 'furniture unit' and bath and was sending a fine spray of water everywhere. Brought down a bit of the downstairs toilet ceiling. The bathroom is over our downstairs loo and the front porch. I investigated and found that because the bathroom suite had to be 'shoehorned' in the furniture unit had been fitted first, then the bath. To get out this unit I would first have to remove the bath which was all nicely tiled in - in effect I would have to gut the bathroom. Solution - get at one end of the pipe through the ceiling which had come down, and cut it out. [This was me coming up under the bath from the floor below.] Remove the other end from the cold tap in the bathroom. Leave the pipe 'in situ' because of bends etc. preventing removal. Thread bendy white plastic pipe through the maze of other pipes and fit to bathroom sink. Connect to main cold water above downstairs toilet. I didn't replace the bit of ceiling - fitted a wooden panel instead so I could get at the pipes in future if required! So the bendiness of plastic is both a problem and in some cases a distinct advantage! On reflection we should have got it done on the insurance but you don't always remember this when the downstairs loo is full of damp plaster! Still, when the rest of the pipes went, we had that done on the insurance. Ah, memories. Dave R P.S. Your house too could be full of low quality ageing copper pipe which is corroding through. Be afraid. Be very afraid. I have no idea how you identify this stuff before it goes, though :-( My 1930s semi had a Servowarm system fitted when there was a shortage of copper, and it was done in steel. Some of it has now been replaced with copper as we have moved stuff around, and I was pleased to see that the bits of steel pipe cut off appear to be in pretty good condition. I had been told that it *will* fail, and that any plumber brave enough to try adding to it will have great difficulty and end up replacing most of it. Thankfully, this appears to not be the case, but I keep an eye on it anyway. Regards, Colin Swan Nildram Operations |
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I LOVE Speedfit! - bad batch of copper pipe
In article ,
Colin Swan colin AT nildram DOT net wrote: My 1930s semi had a Servowarm system fitted when there was a shortage of copper, and it was done in steel. Some of it has now been replaced with copper as we have moved stuff around, and I was pleased to see that the bits of steel pipe cut off appear to be in pretty good condition. I had been told that it *will* fail, and that any plumber brave enough to try adding to it will have great difficulty and end up replacing most of it. Thankfully, this appears to not be the case, but I keep an eye on it anyway. Iron barrel was used for piping water and gas before copper became common. With a central heating system there should be no air in the water, so no corrosion. But an inhibitor would stop this anyway. Its modern equivalent is electrical conduit so the skills to form it etc still exist, although not, I'd guess, with the average plumber. -- *Why is it called tourist season if we can't shoot at them? Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
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I LOVE Speedfit! - bad batch of copper pipe
"Dave Plowman" wrote in message ... In article , Colin Swan colin AT nildram DOT net wrote: My 1930s semi had a Servowarm system fitted when there was a shortage of copper, and it was done in steel. Some of it has now been replaced with copper as we have moved stuff around, and I was pleased to see that the bits of steel pipe cut off appear to be in pretty good condition. I had been told that it *will* fail, and that any plumber brave enough to try adding to it will have great difficulty and end up replacing most of it. Thankfully, this appears to not be the case, but I keep an eye on it anyway. Iron barrel was used for piping water and gas before copper became common. With a central heating system there should be no air in the water, so no corrosion. But an inhibitor would stop this anyway. Its modern equivalent is electrical conduit so the skills to form it etc still exist, although not, I'd guess, with the average plumber. Dave, I think you are unfamiliar with the steel pipe which was used as a get-you-by for a while. This is thin wall stuff (about 1mm or less) with the same dimensions as copper so it could be fitted using the same fittings both compression and soldered. Some is still around in reasonably well protected systems which have been kept up to strength with corrosion inhibitors but some alas is suffering from the effects of corrosion and is failing. Corroded pipe is a bitch to try to connect to and it is better to rip it out and replace wherever possible. Perhaps the stuff you are thinking of is good old fashioned thick wall steel pipe jointed by screwing or welding? About the same time a lot of continental copper pipe was imported to overcome the shortages but which seems to have had particles of some corrodible metal in it. Over the years these have corroded away and formed pinholes. The trade used it in good faith and found out afterwards what crap it really was. Some lengths had one particle in them somewhere and some lengths have revealed a great number of them which produces, eventually, something akin to a watering can spreader bar for putting weedkiller on the lawn! |