Central Heating Programmer
 

I have a Sunvic SP100 electronic programmer, which sometimes loses the
programs/time when there is a power cut. The backup batteries are fully
charged (as measured with a voltmeter), and I think the problems occur due
to a surge when the power is restored.

The easiest solution seemed to be a new programmer - so I purchased a Sunvic
207. All of the wiring in the airing cupboard is surface mounted, and the
cables enter the original programmer through knockouts in the case. The
Sunvic 207 has "an industry standard 6 pin wall plate", which the
instructions specify must be screwed to a flush mounting single conduit box
type UA1 (BS4662). They also state "DO NOT use a surface mounting box".

Clearly I can fit a flush mounting box, but this creates extra work and
mess - and whilst appearance is of no real consequence it does look "untidy"
for a surface mounted cable to go into a hole simply to gain access to the
box inside the wall. Does anyone have experience of fitting these
programmers where the rest of the wiring is surface mounted - or indeed
suggest an electronic model better suited to the purpose. (I am just
within the time limit for exchanging this item).

Thanks,

James


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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 15:54:36 -0000, "James"
strung together this:

They also state "DO NOT use a surface mounting box".

I get a feeling they all say that, including all the ones that are
fitted surface with no box behind them. Can't say as I've ever read
the instructions on any of the hundreds I've fitted, other than maybe
a quick glance at the terninal functions.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
url here when I get around to it
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James wrote:


Clearly I can fit a flush mounting box, but this creates extra work
and mess - and whilst appearance is of no real consequence it does
look "untidy" for a surface mounted cable to go into a hole simply
to
gain access to the box inside the wall. Does anyone have experience
of fitting these programmers where the rest of the wiring is surface
mounted - or indeed suggest an electronic model better suited to the
purpose. (I am just within the time limit for exchanging this
item).


mark on the wall where the hole in the standard mounting plate is.
then chisel the plaster out to form a chase from that location to the
outside of the programmer. So the cables will dive through a sort of
underpass into the programmer. Fit the mounting plate direct to the
wall.
--
Richard