DIYbanter

DIYbanter (https://www.diybanter.com/)
-   UK diy (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/)
-   -   How to wire in an Ikea ceiling light? (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/75869-how-wire-ikea-ceiling-light.html)

Jonathan Baker-Bates November 6th 04 01:45 PM

How to wire in an Ikea ceiling light?
 
I feel sure this must be in the FAQ somewhere, or in the archives, but I
can't find the answer...

I have an Ikea light (a LEDING its called) that I need to fit to a cieling
rose. There are two sets of wires in the ceiling: one I assume is the
switch, the other the mains (each have L/N/E wires).

The light fitting has three wires L/N/E, and that's it. No block like you
normally get with friendly labels on.

So, my question is: what wires do I fit where? I assume the earths all go
to the same place, but what about the rest?

I think part of the answer is going to involve finding which cable is the
switch so I can wire the switch return correctly, but after that, I'm stuck

Any help appreciated!

Jonathan

Stefek Zaba November 6th 04 05:20 PM

Jonathan Baker-Bates wrote:
I feel sure this must be in the FAQ somewhere, or in the archives, but I
can't find the answer...

I have an Ikea light (a LEDING its called) that I need to fit to a cieling
rose. There are two sets of wires in the ceiling: one I assume is the
switch, the other the mains (each have L/N/E wires).

OK. Here's the ugly way to do it - but if you do get tired of the light
and want to switch back to an ordinary pendant later (or grow so
attached you want to take the new fitting to a new house) you'll thank
me for it:
- leave the ceiling rose in place
- mount the IKEA fitting to the ceiling close by
- run the existing pendant cable, or a short length of new cable
(heat-resistant if you can lay your hands on some) to the new fitting.

This way you haven't monkeyed with the fixed wiring at all.

The light fitting has three wires L/N/E, and that's it. No block like you
normally get with friendly labels on.

So, my question is: what wires do I fit where? I assume the earths all go
to the same place, but what about the rest?

OK. If you want to make the new connections "inside" the new fitting,
your job is basically to faithfully replicate the pattern of connections
inside the existing rose. So, label the wires of the existing cables
carefully. There are four, yes four, sets of cable cores which are being
connected together; so to replicate the existing interconnection you
need a 4-way section of "chocolate block" (terminal block) - if we're
talking doing the best job, try to find the sort which has little leaves
of spring metal clamping down the cable groups instead of just the bare
screw.

One way is for all the earths. One is for "all" the neutrals - if you've
just two cables as the moment, there's most likely just one black N to
which the existing pendant cable's blue core is connected, at one of the
outer of the three blocks in the ceiling rose. That's the one you
connect the N wire of the new fitting to, in the second way of the
choccie block. Next way is for all the permanent lives; again with just
two cables there should be just two of these, one in each cable,
currently connected to the middle one of the three long blocks in a line
across the middle of the rose, and each coloured red - though it's
possible that one's black instead, with or without a bit of red sleeving
or tape on it, if the switch wiring is done "the wrong way round". None
of the wires from your new fitting connects here. Final way is for the
"switched live" or "switch return" - should be just one core of one of
the cables, in the best case black with the bit of red tape/sleeving
mentioned above, if wired "the wrong way round" it'd be red instead, but
in either case currently connected to the other outer block of the rose
and where the brown core of the pendant flex is also connected; this way
is where you'll connect the L wire of the new fitting.

If this doesn't make sense, leave the job alone and get someone who does
have a grasp of what they're doing to wire it up!

Cheers, Stefek

Lobster November 6th 04 06:48 PM

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
Jonathan Baker-Bates wrote:
I feel sure this must be in the FAQ somewhere, or in the archives, but I
can't find the answer...

I have an Ikea light (a LEDING its called) that I need to fit to a

cieling
rose. There are two sets of wires in the ceiling: one I assume is the
switch, the other the mains (each have L/N/E wires).

OK. Here's the ugly way to do it - but if you do get tired of the light
and want to switch back to an ordinary pendant later (or grow so
attached you want to take the new fitting to a new house) you'll thank
me for it:
- leave the ceiling rose in place
- mount the IKEA fitting to the ceiling close by
- run the existing pendant cable, or a short length of new cable
(heat-resistant if you can lay your hands on some) to the new fitting.


Eeew.

This way you haven't monkeyed with the fixed wiring at all.

The light fitting has three wires L/N/E, and that's it. No block like

you
normally get with friendly labels on.

So, my question is: what wires do I fit where? I assume the earths all

go
to the same place, but what about the rest?

OK. If you want to make the new connections "inside" the new fitting,
your job is basically to faithfully replicate the pattern of connections
inside the existing rose. So, label the wires of the existing cables
carefully. There are four, yes four, sets of cable cores which are being
connected together; so to replicate the existing interconnection you
need a 4-way section of "chocolate block" (terminal block) - if we're
talking doing the best job, try to find the sort which has little leaves
of spring metal clamping down the cable groups instead of just the bare
screw.


If the fitting is anything like many I've fitted, you might find it hard to
get all those cables, plus the terminal block, inside the casing of the new
light fitting. So there is a Third Way, and actually you might find this a
bit easier to wire than Stefek's. Lift a floorboard in the room directly
above the light fitting, and having labelled the wires as Stefek described,
disconnect them and pull them up through the ceiling. You then replicate
the existing connections using a 4-way junction box and then have just a
single length of cable poking down through the hole in the ceiling (this
will be the thick, fixed stuff used in the lighting circuits, not the skimpy
multi-strand flex which comes with the light fitting). See
http://tinyurl.com/6xmty or
http://www.diydata.com/planning/elec...ric_lights.htm .

You now need to connect a 3-way section of terminal block to your L/N/E
wires inside the light fitting, and connect the other side of the block to
the L/N/E wires, respectively, of the cable now coming down through the
ceiling.

Whether you use this method or Stefek's, you need to ensure that all bare
earth wires throughout (ie in the junction box and/or light fitting) are
sheathed in yellow/green sleeving (you should see bits of this within your
ceiling rose now - B&Q etc sell it by the metre).

When you do the job, don't forget to turn off the mains electric switch, not
just the light switch!

If this doesn't make sense, leave the job alone and get someone who does
have a grasp of what they're doing to wire it up!


Seconded!

Good luck
David




Jonathan Baker-Bates November 6th 04 11:30 PM

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 17:48:01 GMT, Lobster wrote:

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
Jonathan Baker-Bates wrote:
I feel sure this must be in the FAQ somewhere, or in the archives, but I
can't find the answer...

I have an Ikea light (a LEDING its called) that I need to fit to a

cieling
rose. There are two sets of wires in the ceiling: one I assume is the
switch, the other the mains (each have L/N/E wires).

OK. Here's the ugly way to do it - but if you do get tired of the light
and want to switch back to an ordinary pendant later (or grow so
attached you want to take the new fitting to a new house) you'll thank
me for it:
- leave the ceiling rose in place
- mount the IKEA fitting to the ceiling close by
- run the existing pendant cable, or a short length of new cable
(heat-resistant if you can lay your hands on some) to the new fitting.


Eeew.

This way you haven't monkeyed with the fixed wiring at all.

The light fitting has three wires L/N/E, and that's it. No block like

you
normally get with friendly labels on.

So, my question is: what wires do I fit where? I assume the earths all

go
to the same place, but what about the rest?

OK. If you want to make the new connections "inside" the new fitting,
your job is basically to faithfully replicate the pattern of connections
inside the existing rose. So, label the wires of the existing cables
carefully. There are four, yes four, sets of cable cores which are being
connected together; so to replicate the existing interconnection you
need a 4-way section of "chocolate block" (terminal block) - if we're
talking doing the best job, try to find the sort which has little leaves
of spring metal clamping down the cable groups instead of just the bare
screw.


If the fitting is anything like many I've fitted, you might find it hard to
get all those cables, plus the terminal block, inside the casing of the new
light fitting. So there is a Third Way, and actually you might find this a
bit easier to wire than Stefek's. Lift a floorboard in the room directly
above the light fitting, and having labelled the wires as Stefek described,
disconnect them and pull them up through the ceiling. You then replicate
the existing connections using a 4-way junction box and then have just a
single length of cable poking down through the hole in the ceiling (this
will be the thick, fixed stuff used in the lighting circuits, not the skimpy
multi-strand flex which comes with the light fitting). See
http://tinyurl.com/6xmty or
http://www.diydata.com/planning/elec...ric_lights.htm .

You now need to connect a 3-way section of terminal block to your L/N/E
wires inside the light fitting, and connect the other side of the block to
the L/N/E wires, respectively, of the cable now coming down through the
ceiling.

Whether you use this method or Stefek's, you need to ensure that all bare
earth wires throughout (ie in the junction box and/or light fitting) are
sheathed in yellow/green sleeving (you should see bits of this within your
ceiling rose now - B&Q etc sell it by the metre).

When you do the job, don't forget to turn off the mains electric switch, not
just the light switch!

If this doesn't make sense, leave the job alone and get someone who does
have a grasp of what they're doing to wire it up!


Seconded!

Good luck
David


Thanks for the fast and detailed replies! I'll see if I can digest that lot
tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help!

Jonathan

ARWadsworth November 7th 04 10:13 AM

And try
http://www.userview.net/loop2.html
for a pretty picture of the conections.

Adam



Stefek Zaba November 7th 04 01:10 PM

ARWadsworth wrote:
And try
http://www.userview.net/loop2.html
for a pretty picture of the conections.

What a pleasantly simple and accurate site! Definitely one of those
cases where a (well-drawn) picture is worth a thousand words...

Jonathan Baker-Bates November 7th 04 06:31 PM

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 16:20:57 +0000, Stefek Zaba wrote:

snip
OK. If you want to make the new connections "inside" the new fitting,
your job is basically to faithfully replicate the pattern of connections
inside the existing rose. So, label the wires of the existing cables
carefully. There are four, yes four, sets of cable cores which are being
connected together; so to replicate the existing interconnection you
need a 4-way section of "chocolate block" (terminal block) - if we're
talking doing the best job, try to find the sort which has little leaves
of spring metal clamping down the cable groups instead of just the bare
screw.

One way is for all the earths. One is for "all" the neutrals - if you've
just two cables as the moment, there's most likely just one black N to
which the existing pendant cable's blue core is connected, at one of the
outer of the three blocks in the ceiling rose. That's the one you
connect the N wire of the new fitting to, in the second way of the
choccie block. Next way is for all the permanent lives; again with just
two cables there should be just two of these, one in each cable,
currently connected to the middle one of the three long blocks in a line
across the middle of the rose, and each coloured red - though it's
possible that one's black instead, with or without a bit of red sleeving
or tape on it, if the switch wiring is done "the wrong way round". None
of the wires from your new fitting connects here. Final way is for the
"switched live" or "switch return" - should be just one core of one of
the cables, in the best case black with the bit of red tape/sleeving
mentioned above, if wired "the wrong way round" it'd be red instead, but
in either case currently connected to the other outer block of the rose
and where the brown core of the pendant flex is also connected; this way
is where you'll connect the L wire of the new fitting.

If this doesn't make sense, leave the job alone and get someone who does
have a grasp of what they're doing to wire it up!



Hmm. I was all set to go with this, then looked at the wires coming out of
the ceiling. There are *three* neutrals: one each for the mains and the
switch wires, and one emerging between them.

What's that about? Can I ignore it?





ARWadsworth November 7th 04 06:34 PM


"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
ARWadsworth wrote:
And try
http://www.userview.net/loop2.html
for a pretty picture of the conections.

What a pleasantly simple and accurate site!


I have used it before. Andy found plenty of faults on the site then.

Adam



Lobster November 7th 04 07:00 PM

"Jonathan Baker-Bates" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 16:20:57 +0000, Stefek Zaba wrote:

snip
OK. If you want to make the new connections "inside" the new fitting,
your job is basically to faithfully replicate the pattern of connections
inside the existing rose. So, label the wires of the existing cables
carefully. There are four, yes four, sets of cable cores which are being
connected together; so to replicate the existing interconnection you
need a 4-way section of "chocolate block" (terminal block) - if we're
talking doing the best job, try to find the sort which has little leaves
of spring metal clamping down the cable groups instead of just the bare
screw.

One way is for all the earths. One is for "all" the neutrals - if you've
just two cables as the moment, there's most likely just one black N to
which the existing pendant cable's blue core is connected, at one of the
outer of the three blocks in the ceiling rose. That's the one you
connect the N wire of the new fitting to, in the second way of the
choccie block. Next way is for all the permanent lives; again with just
two cables there should be just two of these, one in each cable,
currently connected to the middle one of the three long blocks in a line
across the middle of the rose, and each coloured red - though it's
possible that one's black instead, with or without a bit of red sleeving
or tape on it, if the switch wiring is done "the wrong way round". None
of the wires from your new fitting connects here. Final way is for the
"switched live" or "switch return" - should be just one core of one of
the cables, in the best case black with the bit of red tape/sleeving
mentioned above, if wired "the wrong way round" it'd be red instead, but
in either case currently connected to the other outer block of the rose
and where the brown core of the pendant flex is also connected; this way
is where you'll connect the L wire of the new fitting.

If this doesn't make sense, leave the job alone and get someone who does
have a grasp of what they're doing to wire it up!



Hmm. I was all set to go with this, then looked at the wires coming out of
the ceiling. There are *three* neutrals: one each for the mains and the
switch wires, and one emerging between them.

What's that about? Can I ignore it?


No don't do that! What you'll have is *two* mains cables entering the rose;
one providing power to this light, and then taking power away to feed the
next light, ie continuing the circuit. Together with the switch cable and
the one feeding the lightbulb, that makes 4.

I think the confusion has arisen because the link which somebody posted
earlier (http://www.userview.net/loop2.html)
shows the wiring for the last light on the circuit, where there's no 'next'
light to take power on to. There's a different diagram on the site for your
configuration - see http://www.userview.net/loop1.html

HTH
David




ARWadsworth November 7th 04 07:20 PM


"Lobster" wrote in message
...

snip


Hmm. I was all set to go with this, then looked at the wires coming out

of
the ceiling. There are *three* neutrals: one each for the mains and the
switch wires, and one emerging between them.

What's that about? Can I ignore it?


No don't do that! What you'll have is *two* mains cables entering the

rose;
one providing power to this light, and then taking power away to feed the
next light, ie continuing the circuit. Together with the switch cable

and
the one feeding the lightbulb, that makes 4.

I think the confusion has arisen because the link which somebody posted
earlier (http://www.userview.net/loop2.html)


That was me. I deliberately posted that link as the OP said the were two
wires at the ceiling.

shows the wiring for the last light on the circuit, where there's no

'next'
light to take power on to. There's a different diagram on the site for

your
configuration - see http://www.userview.net/loop1.html


It may be the case that there are 3 T&E wires after the OP has had a closer
look, but he says there is just an extra neutral. It may be a black single
that is used for another light (usually an outside or wall light when wired
like this).

Adam



Stefek Zaba November 7th 04 07:52 PM

ARWadsworth wrote:


I have used it before. Andy found plenty of faults on the site then.

The lighting wiring bit seems both accurate and helpful. The stuff on
fuses is mainly OK, with the notable exception of the claim that
doorbells need a 5A fuse! (Possibly an 'escape' from the cart-fuse-CU
section?)

Their section on wall fixings is more questionable. They have the good
idea of segmenting advice according to what sort of wall you're fixing
to: but make no distinction in pictures or text once a fixing type is
deemed "suitable" for a given type of wall - mush more useful would be
"best for heavy", "pretty good all round", "just about suitable". And no
mention of just what a b*****r concrete is to actually drill into
without an SDS, nor how rare it would be in a domestic wall...

Stefek [possibly dupe-posting - Thunderbird occasionally loses marbles]

ARWadsworth November 7th 04 08:22 PM


"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
ARWadsworth wrote:


I have used it before. Andy found plenty of faults on the site then.

The lighting wiring bit seems both accurate and helpful. The stuff on
fuses is mainly OK, with the notable exception of the claim that
doorbells need a 5A fuse! (Possibly an 'escape' from the cart-fuse-CU
section?)

Their section on wall fixings is more questionable. They have the good
idea of segmenting advice according to what sort of wall you're fixing
to: but make no distinction in pictures or text once a fixing type is
deemed "suitable" for a given type of wall - mush more useful would be
"best for heavy", "pretty good all round", "just about suitable". And no
mention of just what a b*****r concrete is to actually drill into
without an SDS, nor how rare it would be in a domestic wall...

They did make changes to the site after Andy Wade wrote to them and
highlighted the faults. I seem to remember they had the cheek to ask him to
check all their wiring diagrams for them.

Indeed a picture is worth a thousand words (I used the same saying when I
first gave the link). It could change your text from

"OK. If you want to make the new connections "inside" the new fitting,
your job is basically to faithfully replicate the pattern of connections
inside the existing rose. So, label the wires of the existing cables
carefully. There are four, yes four, sets of cable cores which are being
connected together; so to replicate the existing interconnection you
need a 4-way section of "chocolate block" (terminal block) - if we're
talking doing the best job, try to find the sort which has little leaves
of spring metal clamping down the cable groups instead of just the bare
screw.

One way is for all the earths. One is for "all" the neutrals - if you've
just two cables as the moment, there's most likely just one black N to
which the existing pendant cable's blue core is connected, at one of the
outer of the three blocks in the ceiling rose. That's the one you
connect the N wire of the new fitting to, in the second way of the
choccie block. Next way is for all the permanent lives; again with just
two cables there should be just two of these, one in each cable,
currently connected to the middle one of the three long blocks in a line
across the middle of the rose, and each coloured red - though it's
possible that one's black instead, with or without a bit of red sleeving
or tape on it, if the switch wiring is done "the wrong way round". None
of the wires from your new fitting connects here. Final way is for the
"switched live" or "switch return" - should be just one core of one of
the cables, in the best case black with the bit of red tape/sleeving
mentioned above, if wired "the wrong way round" it'd be red instead, but
in either case currently connected to the other outer block of the rose
and where the brown core of the pendant flex is also connected; this way
is where you'll connect the L wire of the new fitting"

into

http://www.userview.net/loop2.html

The FAQ should have something similar, or indeed better. This lighting
question is asked frequently.

Adam



Andy Wade November 7th 04 11:02 PM

ARWadsworth wrote:

They did make changes to the site after Andy Wade wrote to them and
highlighted the faults. I seem to remember they had the cheek to ask him to
check all their wiring diagrams for them.


There are still errors. For example the page about plug fuses refers to
BS 1361 and not to BS 1362. And there's a wiring digram showing a
3-core and earth take-off from a ceiling rose (for a fan) which doesn't
mention the need for red and black sleeving on the blue and yellow
cores. Nor is there any mention of 'new' colours.

--
Andy

Stefek Zaba November 8th 04 12:36 AM

Andy Wade wrote:

There are still errors. ... there's a wiring digram showing a
3-core and earth take-off from a ceiling rose (for a fan) which doesn't
mention the need for red and black sleeving on the blue and yellow
cores. Nor is there any mention of 'new' colours.


D'oh! I'd noticed the absence of sleeving on the 3+E cores, then forgot
to mention it when describing the wiring pics as 'accurate'. I blame
encroaching old age, myself ;-) They could argue that the sleeving will
often be omitted on an existing install, but that's no excuse for not
advising that it should be put in when doing the rose-chockblock
conversion.

Their self-proclaimed expertise is clearly in drawing nice clear
pictures, which (as someone diagramatically challenged) I find
commendable. You'd-a-thunk they'd have the cash (since they don't like
to be thought of as a low-budget operation, and claim to 'consult' with
our good friends at Savoy Place) to pay a full day rate for a "true
expert" instead of hoping to Wiki their way to accuracy!

Stefek

Jonathan Baker-Bates November 9th 04 12:45 AM

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 18:20:09 GMT, ARWadsworth wrote:

"Lobster" wrote in message
...

snip


Hmm. I was all set to go with this, then looked at the wires coming out

of
the ceiling. There are *three* neutrals: one each for the mains and the
switch wires, and one emerging between them.

What's that about? Can I ignore it?


No don't do that! What you'll have is *two* mains cables entering the

rose;
one providing power to this light, and then taking power away to feed the
next light, ie continuing the circuit. Together with the switch cable

and
the one feeding the lightbulb, that makes 4.

I think the confusion has arisen because the link which somebody posted
earlier (http://www.userview.net/loop2.html)


That was me. I deliberately posted that link as the OP said the were two
wires at the ceiling.

shows the wiring for the last light on the circuit, where there's no

'next'
light to take power on to. There's a different diagram on the site for

your
configuration - see http://www.userview.net/loop1.html


It may be the case that there are 3 T&E wires after the OP has had a closer
look, but he says there is just an extra neutral. It may be a black single
that is used for another light (usually an outside or wall light when wired
like this).


Ah - that makes sense. There *is* an outside light just outside in the
conservatory through from the kitchen.

So - do I wire it as http://www.userview.net/loop1.html, just as if there
were an extra live and earth? But how do I tell which is the switch return?

I'm even more confused than I was, but buying a £20 light, then paying
three times that to a leccy to put it on the ceiling just seems a bit nuts.

Jonathan





Lobster November 9th 04 01:32 AM

"Jonathan Baker-Bates" wrote in message
...

So - do I wire it as http://www.userview.net/loop1.html, just as if there
were an extra live and earth? But how do I tell which is the switch

return?

So are you saying that your configuration doesn't match either of the
diagrams at userview.net? If not, could you just clarify exactly what you
*have* got connected to this ceiling rose - how many cables (which are made
up of multiple wires) and how many wires, of what colour?

David



Jonathan Baker-Bates November 10th 04 12:06 AM

On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 00:32:53 GMT, Lobster wrote:

"Jonathan Baker-Bates" wrote in message
...

So - do I wire it as http://www.userview.net/loop1.html, just as if there
were an extra live and earth? But how do I tell which is the switch

return?

So are you saying that your configuration doesn't match either of the
diagrams at userview.net? If not, could you just clarify exactly what you
*have* got connected to this ceiling rose - how many cables (which are made
up of multiple wires) and how many wires, of what colour?


That's right - none of the diagrams seem to apply. I have the following
coming out of my ceiling:

- L, N & E in one sheath from (I assume) the mains.
- L, N & E in another sheath.

Both the above are wired together - i.e. each L, N & E pair are together in
chock blocks (three of them).

- One black sheathed wire.

This is poking out between the above two bundles, not connected to
anything. The outside light and switch for it in the conservatory) is
working OK.

The original lighting fixture was removed by a plumber (fixing a pipe) and
I never thought to ask him how it was wired when he took it down.

Jonathan

Stefek Zaba November 12th 04 02:15 PM

Jonathan Baker-Bates wrote:


That's right - none of the diagrams seem to apply. I have the following
coming out of my ceiling:

- L, N & E in one sheath from (I assume) the mains.
- L, N & E in another sheath.

Both the above are wired together - i.e. each L, N & E pair are together in
chock blocks (three of them).

- One black sheathed wire.

This is poking out between the above two bundles, not connected to
anything. The outside light and switch for it in the conservatory) is
working OK.

The original lighting fixture was removed by a plumber (fixing a pipe) and
I never thought to ask him how it was wired when he took it down.

Oh dear. Not looking simple, I'm afraid: I assumed you had an existing
fully-working all-wires-accounted-for ceiling rose, in one of the
sort-of standard configurations. Now it turns out you have a
partially-disconnected-by-some-bloke-or-other mess of wires :-(

When you say "one black sheathed wire", do you mean it's a single solid
copper wire with just one covering of black insulation; or that it's got
two layers of insulation - an inner black one, with a grey PVC outer
layer? If the former, ***with the circuit if not all the electricity in
the house isolated***, dig around more carefully, as it's quite likely
the black core of a third T&E you haven't found all of. If the latter,
look into that conservatory fitting you mention and its associated
switch - can you see a wire there which is "obviously" the other end of
the same wire?

The point is, you really *can't* wire in this new light to this existing
once-had-a-light position without working out what this black wire's
for. If you had a meter and know how to use it, you'd be unlikely to be
asking here. If you feel you're able to work safely, and bone up on the
principles of what to measure (or know them already), get a meter, and
work out (a) whether the L is a permanent live, or affected by some
switch somewhere, (b) if it is a permlive, which one is feed in and
which one is pass-it-on-downstream (this more for curiousity than
anything else ;-), and then (c) tackle the Mystery Black Wire. Is it
live when some switch (is there one which used to control the missing
fitting?) is switched on? Or is it a neutral to some other now-removed
fitting?

If all this is sounding too haed-hurting, time to swallow pride and line
a local sparky's pockets with a few notes...

Stefek

Jonathan Baker-Bates November 14th 04 09:48 PM

On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 13:15:36 +0000, Stefek Zaba wrote:

Jonathan Baker-Bates wrote:


snip

The original lighting fixture was removed by a plumber (fixing a pipe) and
I never thought to ask him how it was wired when he took it down.

Oh dear. Not looking simple, I'm afraid: I assumed you had an existing
fully-working all-wires-accounted-for ceiling rose, in one of the
sort-of standard configurations. Now it turns out you have a
partially-disconnected-by-some-bloke-or-other mess of wires :-(

snip
If all this is sounding too haed-hurting, time to swallow pride and line
a local sparky's pockets with a few notes...


Hmm. I think you're right. Although my four-year-old might enjoy seeing the
ceiling explode in flames, my wife and I might not.

Thanks for all your help though. Much appreciated!

Jonathan




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:55 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter