Glueing Glass
 

SWMBO was looking at a glass storage unit for the bathroom. It
consists of two side pieces approximately 1.5m in length x 170mm in
depth and it has about six glass shelves which are glued to these two
side pieces to form little 'boxes', these shelves are 150mm wide x
170mm in depth. In other words, it's a bit like a glass ladder with a
top and bottom!

Looking at it, it's obvious that the 'shelves' are glued to the side
pieces but there's no sign of any adhesive. Has anyone any idea how
you could glue glass in this fashion? The glass in question is 6mm
and will be toughened with, I guess, polished edges, although I'm not
sure if they're polished where they're glued to the side panels.

In our case, it would also have to have brackets (probably metal)
glued to each end, so as well as glass to glass glue, I'm also looking
for metal to glass glue.

She wants one of course, but at £362 it does seem a tad expensive to
me for what is after all only about ten pieces of toughed and polished
glass and some glue. Am I missing something?

xav

On 30 Oct 2004 10:17:37 -0700, (xavier) wrote:

Has anyone any idea how you could glue glass in this fashion?

A UV cure glue, and a very expensive UV light. This is a wondeful bit
of kit to work with, because it's as instant and controllable as
welding. If you can work slower and arrange to clamp it in situ, then
you can use an EPROM eraser.

For small jobs, a less strong but more flexible version of this is
sold in car accesory shops for attaching rear-view mirors to
windscreens.

--
Smert' spamionam

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On 30 Oct 2004 10:17:37 -0700, (xavier) wrote:

Has anyone any idea how you could glue glass in this fashion?

A UV cure glue, and a very expensive UV light. This is a wondeful bit
of kit to work with, because it's as instant and controllable as
welding. If you can work slower and arrange to clamp it in situ, then
you can use an EPROM eraser.

For small jobs, a less strong but more flexible version of this is
sold in car accesory shops for attaching rear-view mirors to
windscreens.

Tks.

What's an EPROM eraser and where do I get one (it?)

xav

What's an EPROM eraser and where do I get one (it?)

xav

It erases, clears the memory, of eprom chips used in computers. Where the
bios of your pc is stored. They use UV light to erase the chip.

Dave

--

Some people use windows, others have a life.

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On 30 Oct 2004 10:17:37 -0700, (xavier) wrote:

Has anyone any idea how you could glue glass in this fashion?

A UV cure glue, and a very expensive UV light. This is a wondeful bit
of kit to work with, because it's as instant and controllable as
welding. If you can work slower and arrange to clamp it in situ, then
you can use an EPROM eraser.

For small jobs, a less strong but more flexible version of this is
sold in car accesory shops for attaching rear-view mirors to
windscreens.

You can buy a blacklight UV bulb with standard bayonet fitting for
about 5 GBP. These give out a small amount of UV. If you carefully
remove the outer glass case, which is in fact a UV filter, the inside
which is a self-contained UV discharge tube yields a considerable
amount of UV. However you must be careful not to get the UV in your
eyes. You should wear a pair of googles to UV 400 standard.

In article ,
(xavier) writes:
Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On 30 Oct 2004 10:17:37 -0700, (xavier) wrote:

Has anyone any idea how you could glue glass in this fashion?

A UV cure glue, and a very expensive UV light. This is a wondeful bit
of kit to work with, because it's as instant and controllable as
welding. If you can work slower and arrange to clamp it in situ, then
you can use an EPROM eraser.

For small jobs, a less strong but more flexible version of this is
sold in car accesory shops for attaching rear-view mirors to
windscreens.

Tks.

What's an EPROM eraser and where do I get one (it?)

Use a blacklight blue tube. The shorter wavelengths from an eprom
eraser (germicidal tube) are dangerous, and won't go through
ordinary glass anyway, so can't help in curing the glue.

Other sources are bright sunlight (problem at this time of year),
and high power halogen lamps which have no glass cover.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
Dave Stanton wrote:

What's an EPROM eraser and where do I get one (it?)

xav

It erases, clears the memory, of eprom chips used in computers. Where the
bios of your pc is stored. They use UV light to erase the chip.

Not for several years in a PC they haven't... It's all flash (electrically
erasable) these days... And I think the older ones used mask programmable
ROMS too (ie. program once, non erasable)

Gordon

On 31 Oct 2004 10:11:55 -0800, (xavier) wrote:

In the meantime, does anyone know of
anything in a tube - you know, the kind you can squeeze at one end and
out pops the magic potion at the other?

Loctite 350 or 358

Any decent industrial glueshop will know of it, or there's always RS
Mine was £25 for a 50ml tube (lifetime's supply)

Needs _Summer_ sunshine to cure it, or a short-wavelength UV tube.
EPROM erasers probably show up on eBay, or I hope there's still the
old advert in the back of E&WW for the tubes and ballasts (Electronics
and Wireless World - you can get it in Smiths).

Keep it away from air - use a _tiny_ amount and let capillary action
pull it between the glass. If it's exposed to air you have to really
nuke the stuff to get it to cure.


Loctite also do "Glass Bond", which is similar. It's different though
in that it's a 3ml tube for a couple of quid, and you'll use a few of
them making furniture. It's also optimised for a long-wavelength
sunshine cure, or I think it works under sunray lamps too.

The other one (probably Loctite again, although there are several) is
the car-shop rear mirror glue. This has a bit more "give" to it
(Loctite's ordinary Glass Bond will make your mirror fall off on a hot
day)

--
Smert' spamionam

Andy Dingley wrote in
:

On 31 Oct 2004 10:11:55 -0800, (xavier) wrote:

Needs _Summer_ sunshine to cure it, or a short-wavelength UV tube.
EPROM erasers probably show up on eBay, or I hope there's still the
old advert in the back of E&WW for the tubes and ballasts (Electronics
and Wireless World - you can get it in Smiths).

UV torches can be found. Do they produce sufficient output to cure these
substances or are they only powerful enough for banknote testing?

--
Rod

www.annalaurie.co.uk
Copyright RH 2004
No part of this post may be published in or used by
http://www.diyprojects.info

Gordon Henderson wrote:

Not for several years in a PC they haven't... It's all flash (electrically
erasable) these days... And I think the older ones used mask programmable
ROMS too (ie. program once, non erasable)


I've got a 286 motherboard with an EPROM BIOS (has erase window).


--
Grunff

On 31 Oct 2004 22:55:03 GMT, Rod Hewitt
wrote:

UV torches can be found.

Long wavelength. They won't even think about curing the glue, no
matter how many or how long you used them.


I was pondering this strange behaviour of UV light, and why it has to
be of a certain minimum wavelength to have any effect, when I began to
invent a fascinating new theory, which this posting is sadly too small
to contain...

Andy Dingley wrote:

I was pondering this strange behaviour of UV light, and why it has to
be of a certain minimum wavelength to have any effect

Isn;t it just a photon energy threshold? Above a certain wavelength, the
photon energy isn't enough to kick the appropriate electron, below that
wavelength it is?

when I began to
invent a fascinating new theory, which this posting is sadly too small
to contain...


All ears.

--
Grunff

In article , "xavier"
says...
(slifkin) wrote in message . com...
Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On 30 Oct 2004 10:17:37 -0700, (xavier) wrote:

Has anyone any idea how you could glue glass in this fashion?

A UV cure glue, and a very expensive UV light. This is a wondeful bit
of kit to work with, because it's as instant and controllable as
welding. If you can work slower and arrange to clamp it in situ, then
you can use an EPROM eraser.

For small jobs, a less strong but more flexible version of this is
sold in car accesory shops for attaching rear-view mirors to
windscreens.

You can buy a blacklight UV bulb with standard bayonet fitting for
about 5 GBP. These give out a small amount of UV. If you carefully
remove the outer glass case, which is in fact a UV filter, the inside
which is a self-contained UV discharge tube yields a considerable
amount of UV. However you must be careful not to get the UV in your
eyes. You should wear a pair of googles to UV 400 standard.


err

This is all very interesting chaps and I'm sure I'm going to be
eternally grateful one day. In the meantime, does anyone know of
anything in a tube - you know, the kind you can squeeze at one end and
out pops the magic potion at the other?

Failing that it's beginning to look like 360 dumps at the bathroom
shop - down the tubes you might say (ouch, I'll get me coat)!

http://www.intertronics.co.uk/data/401.pdf

Don't know what you would do for a UV source though - maybe a sunbed or
those things they use for hardening nail polish in salons?

In article , "Andy Dingley"
says...
On 31 Oct 2004 22:55:03 GMT, Rod Hewitt
wrote:

UV torches can be found.

Long wavelength. They won't even think about curing the glue, no
matter how many or how long you used them.

How about the things they use for hardening nail polish in salons?

Grunff wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:

I was pondering this strange behaviour of UV light, and why it has to
be of a certain minimum wavelength to have any effect


Isn;t it just a photon energy threshold? Above a certain wavelength, the
photon energy isn't enough to kick the appropriate electron, below that
wavelength it is?

Not really. Most of the UV glues I have used have an absorption peak
matched to the 365nm mercury line (they are transparent again below
this). This will penetrate a thin layer of normal glass. Some also
have an absorption in the deep blue which helps them to cure in sunlight
("Glass Bond" is a DIY brand which IIRC will cure with UV or blue).
Dymax is one brand we use at work, Norland is another, though most of
their UV glues are designed and priced for use with precision optics.

"Disco" blacklights are 365nm, but there's not much of it, and what
there is is quite spread out, however that should get most of these
glues to go off. Germicidal/EPROM erase lamps (as pointed out
elsewhere) won't get through the glass and aren't guaranteed to set the
glue off anyway.

These glues can be extremely strong and can bond metal to glass as well
as glass to glass. A test we did at work was to bond a 20mm square 3mm
thick mirror along one edge to a bracket inside a dead PC case.
Dropping the case onto a solid concrete floor from ~1m rarely broke the
bond but frequently broke the glass (cleanly).

Both surfaces should be completely clean, especially grease free.

There is one other issue I discovered when attenpting to cure UV glue
with a ~370nm UV LED: If the intensity is too low you will get a
partial cure (tacky with no strength) which no length of exposure will
improve on.

--
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Asa Cannell wrote:
Nichia just came out with a 365nm (ultraviolet), 100mw (optical power
output) LED. Its probably the highest power UV led in the world right
now (the claim it is on their website), and 365nm is especially exotic
for a solid state ultraviolet source, most are at 390 or above, few
are at this short a wavelength and next to none are at this output
power, at any wavelength. This might be what you are looking for for
UV curing because of its output wavelength and very high power output.
They have made samples available recently at $200 a piece with a
minimum quantity of 5 pieces and a lead time of 4 weeks. I bought 5 of
them (yep $1000) for a project I am working on, but I only need two. I
am selling the other three for $200 each plus shipping. You can
download the datasheet and place an order at:

http://www.exoticelectron.com/nccu033.html

I don't think this project's got that kind of budget, but thanks for the
info and the offer.

Chris

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