DIY timber garage doors..
 

hi all, can anyone point me to a site that will give me some idea of how to
build some new garage doors? i have an up and over grp type now, but since i
now have a car lift i cant open the doors...so i need two leaf timber doors
that open outwards. the measurements are 78inches by125inches. either that
or buy some ready made...they are need asap so any sugestions? i am happy
to make them but need some idea how to knock up the frame etc.

tar!

steve

On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:40:11 +0100, "r.p.mcmurphy"
wrote:

hi all, can anyone point me to a site that will give me some idea of how to
build some new garage doors? i have an up and over grp type now, but since i
now have a car lift i cant open the doors...so i need two leaf timber doors
that open outwards. the measurements are 78inches by125inches. either that
or buy some ready made...they are need asap so any sugestions? i am happy
to make them but need some idea how to knock up the frame etc.

tar!

steve


I'd wander down to the local door shop, and look at how they make
doors that are similar to what you want, I'd look at sizes of timber,
joints etc, and then run out the shop and write it all down in a
notepad.

I would them make my doors in a similar way, I'd maybe use 3 times as
many screws, and 2 times as many strengthners, and make them of
thicker wood.

Rick

"r.p.mcmurphy" wrote in message
...
snip description

by frame i meant a iner frame to which the t&g is nailed to, i plan to
have a plain face with t&g right down to the floor(bar half an inch)
the door is not heavily exposed and will be looked after so im not too
worried about rot. the frame will not be morticed and tenoned...i
know that would be best...but i dont have the time or equipment so im
having to nail or screw it together tightly then nail the t&g to the
face. is there any other way to do it?

What's been suggested to you is a "ledged & braced" door, so there isn't
a full frame as such. The t&g boards are nailed or screwed to three
cross pieces on the inside, and the two diagonals stop the whole thing
lozenging. Doors made like this are less torsionally stiff than if they
had a full frame, but easier to make. I think the suggestion of 7" t&g
might make life difficult - I'd go for standard floorboarding, or, to
make it look a bit less slab-like, vee'd t&g - like the stuff people
used to clad their kitchens with, but thicker. I'd make the ledges and
braces 6" x 1 1/2" nominal - 1" nominal is a bit thin as it usually
finishes up little more than 3/4" thick. The proportions aren't ideal
for diagonal bracing - it will be much too flat an angle if you take it
right across the gaps between the ledges, so I'd consider starting the
brace say 6" in from each end, and cutting them into the ledges by 1/2"
or so.

Traditionally, over-long nails were used and clenched over. Prime the
edges of the boards before assembly with a primer of similar colour to
your eventual finish, then when the boards shrink in summer the tongues
won't show up as bare wood.

I'd use heavy-duty tee hinges - toolstation are cheaper than screwfix,
at £4.40/pr for 15" or £6.03 for 18", though a determined burglar could
unscrew them unless you substitute a few coachbolts for some of the
screws.

Or get the opening down to 8ft, and get B&Q to saw a couple of pieces of
19mm ply to the right length.


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***
Car Transport by Tiltbed Trailer - based near Derby

In article ,
"r.p.mcmurphy" says...
snip
be 2 inch for the ledging ect... and as you said, standard floorboard but
unfortunatly not vee'd. so its gonna be a big slab...i may route some
grooves in at some point...depends if i dislike the slab like apperance.

You can just run a plane along the outside edges of the T&G a couple of
times to get the vee profile. Leave the inside plain.