Lead flashing - what do the codes mean?
 

Hi all
I need to replace some old lead flashing that has been poorly fitted
between one of the walls of my house and a 'lean to' style roof. Had
a look at a few on line stores and I notice that there are codes (3
and 4)? What does this mean,and what sort should I be looking at for
my job?
Also, which of all the major DIY retailers would it best to try and
buy some from?
Thanks in advance
Simon

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 21:12:16 +0100, Simon Hawthorne wrote:

I notice that there are codes (3 and 4)? What does this mean, ...

The thickness, bigger the number the thicker the sheet is.

... and what sort should I be looking at for my job?

I'd go for code 4, unless you are very exposed in which case code 5.

Also, which of all the major DIY retailers would it best to try and
buy some from?

I wouldn't I'd go to a builders merchant. But do you need to replace
the lead? Can it not be redressed to the roof and the pointing
corrected?

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

"Simon Hawthorne" wrote in message
...
Hi all
I need to replace some old lead flashing that has been poorly fitted
between one of the walls of my house and a 'lean to' style roof. Had
a look at a few on line stores and I notice that there are codes (3
and 4)? What does this mean,and what sort should I be looking at for
my job?
Also, which of all the major DIY retailers would it best to try and
buy some from?
Thanks in advance
Simon


Ibs per square foot

AWEM

Andrew Mawson wrote:

Ibs per square foot

Oh so it is. I'd never twigged that very basic fact.

But for those who prefer less archaic units:

* ========================= *
* Lead sheet to BS 1178 *
* ========================= *
* Code Thickness Weight *
* No. mm kg/m^2 *
* ---- --------- ------ *
* 3 1.32 15.0 *
* 4 1.80 20.4 *
* 5 2.24 25.4 *
* 6 2.65 30.1 *
* 7 3.15 35.7 *
* 8 3.55 40.3 *
* ========================= *

--
Andy

Thanks all.

Been and had another look today and boght 6m x 150mm (code 3) - I
think this will do the job nicely.

Regards

Simon

In article , Simon
Hawthorne writes
Thanks all.

Been and had another look today and boght 6m x 150mm (code 3) - I
think this will do the job nicely.

How much?, most of the catalogues I have seen (not many) say POA.
--
fred

How much?, most of the catalogues I have seen (not many) say POA.

Local builders merchant charged me £18.75 (weighed 13kg)

Si

In article ,
fred wrote:
How much?, most of the catalogues I have seen (not many) say POA.

Apart from builders merchants, both my local Wicks and B&Q stock at least
some lead. Haven't compared prices, though.

--
*If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Simon
Hawthorne writes

How much?, most of the catalogues I have seen (not many) say POA.

Local builders merchant charged me £18.75 (weighed 13kg)

Thanks & for the weight too, approx 1.50 a kilo is a good for me as a
guide.
--
fred

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 18:59:13 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Apart from builders merchants, both my local Wicks and B&Q stock at least
some lead. Haven't compared prices, though.

I checked out Wickes:

3m x 240mm was £12.99 - but didn't see the code. They had a 15kg roll
(not sure of the dims) for £24.99

S.

Simon Hawthorne wrote in message . ..
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 18:59:13 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Apart from builders merchants, both my local Wicks and B&Q stock at least
some lead. Haven't compared prices, though.

I checked out Wickes:

3m x 240mm was £12.99 - but didn't see the code. They had a 15kg roll
(not sure of the dims) for £24.99

When you buy lead is it sold by weight or lenght?
Cheers

On 24 Oct 2004 05:09:43 -0700, (Mo Thanku)
wrote:

When you buy lead is it sold by weight or lenght?
Cheers

Hi
In my limited experience, it is sold by length, but the cost is worked
out on weight.....
Si

3m x 240mm was £12.99 - but didn't see the code. They had a 15kg roll
(not sure of the dims) for £24.99

Don't forget the patination oil and lead sealant!

Christian.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
3m x 240mm was £12.99 - but didn't see the code. They had a 15kg roll
(not sure of the dims) for £24.99

Don't forget the patination oil and lead sealant!

I'm not sure properly designed and executed leadwork will need any sealant.
After all its use dates back to somewhat before modern sealants - for that
very reason.

--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I'm not sure properly designed and executed leadwork will need any
sealant.
After all its use dates back to somewhat before modern sealants - for that
very reason.

I mean to insert into the brickwork. Obviously, you may also use mortar, but
sealant is easier!

Christian.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
I'm not sure properly designed and executed leadwork will need any
sealant. After all its use dates back to somewhat before modern
sealants - for that very reason.

I mean to insert into the brickwork. Obviously, you may also use mortar,
but sealant is easier!

Right. However, if doing stepped flashing, you're likely to have to patch
surrounding pointing also. How well does lead sealant match this?
Otherwise, it seems you'll still have to knock up some mortar anyway?

--
*A bartender is just a pharmacist with a limited inventory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Right. However, if doing stepped flashing, you're likely to have to patch
surrounding pointing also. How well does lead sealant match this?
Otherwise, it seems you'll still have to knock up some mortar anyway?

Being dark grey, it matches well to the lead. I imagine the match to your
average mortar would be appalling!

In my case, I didn't need to touch the pointing. I needed a angle grinder to
shift it, it was so hard and certainly didn't remove any more than I needed
to.

Christian.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
Being dark grey, it matches well to the lead. I imagine the match to your
average mortar would be appalling!

Right. I'll keep it in mind.

In my case, I didn't need to touch the pointing. I needed a angle
grinder to shift it, it was so hard and certainly didn't remove any more
than I needed to.

I keep forgetting not everyone has a Victorian pile where the mortar is
soft. The pointing - once started on removal - is often difficult to
stop. ;-)

--
*You can't teach an old mouse new clicks *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I keep forgetting not everyone has a Victorian pile where the mortar is
soft. The pointing - once started on removal - is often difficult to
stop. ;-)

Actually, I do. Some cretin repointed the rear elevation to the "extension"
with a seriously strong mix. Luckily the front (and the rest of the rear)
have escaped.

Christian.