I've been repainting my kitchen cupboard doors using dulux satinwood,
since none of the kitchen makeover paints were available in the colour
I wanted.

To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish. However, the varnish leaves a patchy,
grubby-looking finish (even when using brand new brushes) which makes
me wonder whether it is incompatible with the paint below.

Does anyone know if this is likely to be the problem, and more to the
point, what kind of varnish I should be using?

Thanks

Bob

In article ,
(Bob) wrote:


To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish. However, the varnish leaves a patchy,
grubby-looking finish (even when using brand new brushes) which makes
me wonder whether it is incompatible with the paint below.

Are you mixing water and solvent based finishes? Max Bone once pointed
out to me that this is not a problem but you do need to wait several
days between the different finishes.

Alternatively what sort of varnish are you using? If it is polyurethane
then you may need to sand the paint to roughen it slightly to give the
poly some grip.

Peter

--
Peter Ashby
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
To assume that I speak for the University of Dundee is to be deluded.
Reverse the Spam and remove to email me.

In message , Bob
writes
I've been repainting my kitchen cupboard doors using dulux satinwood,
since none of the kitchen makeover paints were available in the colour
I wanted.


We did the same about 4 years ago.

To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish.

I didn't bother though I thought about it, the finish is wearing well,
no problem keeping it clean

Does anyone know if this is likely to be the problem, and more to the
point, what kind of varnish I should be using?

What are you using now?
--
Chris French, Leeds

Varnish is for bare wood or stained wood,not oil based gloss surfaces.

In message
"Alex" wrote:

Varnish is for bare wood or stained wood,not oil based gloss surfaces.

Not true,

Some gloss oil paints (Tekaloid) actually recommend varnishing with a
linseed oil varnish.


Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
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In message
(Bob) wrote:

I've been repainting my kitchen cupboard doors using dulux satinwood,
since none of the kitchen makeover paints were available in the colour
I wanted.

To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish. However, the varnish leaves a patchy,
grubby-looking finish (even when using brand new brushes) which makes
me wonder whether it is incompatible with the paint below.

What varnish are you using, If water base then you'll get much better
results using either an oil or a polyurathane base varnish.

Does anyone know if this is likely to be the problem, and more to the
point, what kind of varnish I should be using?

Personally I'd use an oil based varnish, But I would say that

Steve.



--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
StrongARM Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.

In article ,
Alex wrote:
Varnish is for bare wood or stained wood,not oil based gloss surfaces.

Wonder if Constable knew this? ;-)

Never heard of coach painting?

--
*Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all?"

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Peter Ashby wrote in message ...
In article ,
(Bob) wrote:


To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish. However, the varnish leaves a patchy,
grubby-looking finish (even when using brand new brushes) which makes
me wonder whether it is incompatible with the paint below.

Are you mixing water and solvent based finishes? Max Bone once pointed
out to me that this is not a problem but you do need to wait several
days between the different finishes.

Alternatively what sort of varnish are you using? If it is polyurethane
then you may need to sand the paint to roughen it slightly to give the
poly some grip.

Peter

It is a polyurethane varnish (Ronseal clear satin varnish), but the
problem is not one of adhesion. The cupboard doors are painted a pale
yellow, but the varnish makes them look dirty.

Bob

Stephen Hull wrote in message ...
In message
(Bob) wrote:

I've been repainting my kitchen cupboard doors using dulux satinwood,
since none of the kitchen makeover paints were available in the colour
I wanted.

To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish. However, the varnish leaves a patchy,
grubby-looking finish (even when using brand new brushes) which makes
me wonder whether it is incompatible with the paint below.

What varnish are you using, If water base then you'll get much better
results using either an oil or a polyurathane base varnish.

Does anyone know if this is likely to be the problem, and more to the
point, what kind of varnish I should be using?

Personally I'd use an oil based varnish, But I would say that

Steve.

It's a polyurathane varnish, but even using clean, new brushes, the
finish looks dirty. The nice light creamy yellow finish of the
satinwood paint looks as if it has been covered with dirty dishwater.
The doors now look as if they were painted ten years ago!

I figured it must be something to do with the varnish (and it can't be
just this pot, because I knocked it over and had buy another one!).

Bob

"Bob" wrote in message
om...
Stephen Hull wrote in message
...
In message
(Bob) wrote:

I've been repainting my kitchen cupboard doors using dulux satinwood,
since none of the kitchen makeover paints were available in the colour
I wanted.

To give a hardwearing, washable finish, I thought I should then add a
few coats of varnish. However, the varnish leaves a patchy,
grubby-looking finish (even when using brand new brushes) which makes
me wonder whether it is incompatible with the paint below.

What varnish are you using, If water base then you'll get much better
results using either an oil or a polyurathane base varnish.

Does anyone know if this is likely to be the problem, and more to the
point, what kind of varnish I should be using?

Personally I'd use an oil based varnish, But I would say that

Steve.

It's a polyurathane varnish, but even using clean, new brushes, the
finish looks dirty. The nice light creamy yellow finish of the
satinwood paint looks as if it has been covered with dirty dishwater.
The doors now look as if they were painted ten years ago!

I figured it must be something to do with the varnish (and it can't be
just this pot, because I knocked it over and had buy another one!).

Bob

Try Polyvines water-bourne Varnish it won't affect the colour, key on with a
light sanding first (sounds like you will have to sand to get rid of the old
varnish anyway) and use a water based Eggshell paint next time.

In article ,
(Bob) wrote:


It is a polyurethane varnish (Ronseal clear satin varnish), but the
problem is not one of adhesion. The cupboard doors are painted a pale
yellow, but the varnish makes them look dirty.

There was a thread a while ago about protecting a painting outside where
various crystal varnishes were referenced. I suspect that is what you
need and that the Ronseal is not as clear as it might be. IIRC you need
a crystal or blond varnish if you really want to cover such a light
colour with no tint. Unlikely to be cheap though, its probably best to
just paint them but be resigned to touchups now and again. Slightly more
work maybe but less heartache.

Peter

--
Peter Ashby
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
To assume that I speak for the University of Dundee is to be deluded.
Reverse the Spam and remove to email me.

In message
(Bob) wrote:

[snip]

Personally I'd use an oil based varnish, But I would say that

Steve.

It's a polyurathane varnish, but even using clean, new brushes, the
finish looks dirty. The nice light creamy yellow finish of the
satinwood paint looks as if it has been covered with dirty dishwater.
The doors now look as if they were painted ten years ago!

Sounds to me like you have a poor (so called clear) varnish where the
thickness of the brushed out varnish is showing as coloured streaks.

As a clarity guide when observed in the tin, Does the varnish have a
distinct colour shade?, It really should be totally clear like water if
it is of the true clear varnish type.

Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
StrongARM Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.