I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

On 14/06/2021 23:13, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

do they not just clip in?...what's the problem with that? ..

On 15/06/2021 07:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 14/06/2021 23:13, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

do they not just clip in?...what's the problem with that? ..
....and it is not a noggin it is a dwang...and it is not a jab it is a
jag ...tee hee

There really are some terrible examples around of what folk do to secure
boxes. Around the back from me some cheap throw uphouses with plasterboard
walls seem to have the back boxes for switches secured by what look like
staples through the back through some holes. Quite what these hold onto is a
bit of a mystery.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"Grumps" wrote in message ...
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel box
in this location.

On 14/06/2021 23:13, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

Yes.
--
Cheers,
Roger

On 15/06/2021 09:01, Owain Lastname wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 June 2021 at 08:05:14 UTC+1, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
...and it is not a noggin it is a dwang...and it is not a jab it is a
jag ...tee hee

it's not a willy it's a boaby

Owain

totly

On 14/06/2021 23:13, Grumps wrote:

I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

Yup a dry lining box has a clamp attached to the screws that go through
the face plate, that pulls the box tight to the plasterboard (the lip on
the edge of the box, stops it being pulled through the hole in the wall).

The better boxes have a kind of ratchet action that keeps the clamp
locked in place even if you undo the screws later.

--
Cheers,

John.

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r.

On 14/06/2021 23:13, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.
Correct


--
There is something fascinating about science. One gets such wholesale
returns of conjecture out of such a trifling investment of fact.

Mark Twain

On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 11:13:33 PM UTC+1, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

I think most electricians prefer the metal box on a noggin especially if on first fix they have access to the stud work only using dry lining boxes when an additional socket is mounted in an existing wall. The main reason I am told is that the front lip of the dry line box is often visible especially when using some of the decorative outlets.

I have seen an example of an electrician fixing a metal box to an existing studded wall by glueing a suitable spacer piece to the other PB back then screwing the box to the spacer.

Richard

On 15/06/2021 13:46, Tricky Dicky wrote:
On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 11:13:33 PM UTC+1, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad! Am I correct in saying that a dry lining
back box does not need to be screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing
only applies if fitting a steel box in this location.

I think most electricians prefer the metal box on a noggin especially
if on first fix they have access to the stud work only using dry
lining boxes when an additional socket is mounted in an existing
wall. The main reason I am told is that the front lip of the dry
line box is often visible especially when using some of the
decorative outlets.

I have seen an example of an electrician fixing a metal box to an
existing studded wall by glueing a suitable spacer piece to the other
PB back then screwing the box to the spacer.

Yup that works well IME - also gives you a fireproof and earthed back
box which can matter in some cases.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/06/2021 13:27, JohnP wrote:
r.


I guess some people just fail to get the correct back box for the job and
become inventive.


Or, where they need to put a backbox, there is a noggin (partly) in
the way, so the clips are tricky to engage.

In article ,
Tricky Dicky wrote:
I have seen an example of an electrician fixing a metal box to an
existing studded wall by glueing a suitable spacer piece to the other PB
back then screwing the box to the spacer.

Here, I generally use battens either side of the metal box fixed through
the plasterboard with brass screws. Then just fill the heads. Saves
messing around waiting for glue to dry. Of course if working in an already
decorated room, glue may be required. You often have to drill holes in
some makes of boxes too for the screws between that and the battens.

Of course for DIY, it's only my time. I doubt a pro wants the fiddle.

--
*I'm not a paranoid, deranged millionaire. Dammit, I'm a billionaire.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 15/06/2021 13:46, Tricky Dicky wrote:
On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 11:13:33 PM UTC+1, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

I think most electricians prefer the metal box on a noggin especially if on first fix they have access to the stud work only using dry lining boxes when an additional socket is mounted in an existing wall. The main reason I am told is that the front lip of the dry line box is often visible especially when using some of the decorative outlets.

It should not be visible if the dry liner is fitted before the wall is
skimmed.

But yes I am a noggin and metal backbox man.


--
Adam

On 15/06/2021 18:10, ARW wrote:
On 15/06/2021 13:46, Tricky Dicky wrote:
On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 11:13:33 PM UTC+1, Grumps wrote:
I think I'm going mad!
Am I correct in saying that a dry lining back box does not need to be
screwed to a stud or noggin? Screwing only applies if fitting a steel
box in this location.

I think most electricians prefer the metal box on a noggin especially
if on first fix they have access to the stud work only using dry
lining boxes when an additional socket is mounted in an existing wall.
The main reason I am told is thatÂ* the front lip of the dry line box
is often visible especially when using some of the decorative outlets.

It should not be visible if the dry liner is fitted before the wall is
skimmed.

But yes I am a noggin and metal backbox man.

Isn't that because you wire and fit back boxes before the plasterboard
is possibly even on site?