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Kal Ico March 27th 21 08:50 AM

Tips for removing window beadings
 
Hi all, I have some (fairly modern/recent) wooden windows that are in good condition, except the double-glazed units need replacing. Easy enough job on plastic, but with wood not so much.

They are not the old sliding sash type, but more modern casement windows. One option is to replace the entire frame with uPVC, but that's overkill and expensive.

Any tips for how to remove the beadings so I can just insert new glass? My first thoughts are that the beads will likely be nailed in, so using something like a multi-tool might be the best way to go, so as to cut through the nails. Also any thoughts on what to put them back with, so as to seal it all?

Looking forward to your wisdom.

[email protected] March 27th 21 09:20 AM

Tips for removing window beadings
 
On 27/03/2021 08:50, Kal Ico wrote:
Hi all, I have some (fairly modern/recent) wooden windows that are in good condition, except the double-glazed units need replacing. Easy enough job on plastic, but with wood not so much.

They are not the old sliding sash type, but more modern casement windows. One option is to replace the entire frame with uPVC, but that's overkill and expensive.

Any tips for how to remove the beadings so I can just insert new glass? My first thoughts are that the beads will likely be nailed in, so using something like a multi-tool might be the best way to go, so as to cut through the nails. Also any thoughts on what to put them back with, so as to seal it all?

Looking forward to your wisdom.

They're almost certainly only held with a few pins and silicone, or
putty. I'd use a sharp chisel to split the beading, then you should be
able to pry it up. You're probably going to catch a nail so don't use
your best Lie-Nielsen chisels!

Andrew[_22_] March 28th 21 07:14 PM

Tips for removing window beadings
 
On 27/03/2021 08:50, Kal Ico wrote:
Hi all, I have some (fairly modern/recent) wooden windows that are in good condition, except the double-glazed units need replacing. Easy enough job on plastic, but with wood not so much.

They are not the old sliding sash type, but more modern casement windows. One option is to replace the entire frame with uPVC, but that's overkill and expensive.

Any tips for how to remove the beadings so I can just insert new glass? My first thoughts are that the beads will likely be nailed in, so using something like a multi-tool might be the best way to go, so as to cut through the nails. Also any thoughts on what to put them back with, so as to seal it all?

Looking forward to your wisdom.


If they are drybedded then the glazing units should be stuck
to the frame with double sided butyl tape and the beading
shiould be stuck to the glass with the same stuff and then
fixed to the frame with some ?stainless steel pins. So you
might be able to locate them by carfully scraping the paint
off the beads, otherwise just carefully drive a flat end
scraper or chisel into the joint between bead and frame at
the midpoint.

The bottom bead should (may?) be a special moulding that also
works as a drip rail. The order of removal may be important if
you want to get them off (sort of) undamaged

Dry-bedded DG units in timber frames will also have spacers
and supports made of some sort of tough fibre material to
maintain a drip gap all around the unit inside the reveal.

Kal Ico March 29th 21 02:26 PM

Tips for removing window beadings
 
Thank you both for your replies - they are helpful.

I've acquired a multi-tool that I can use if necessary, but it sounds from what you say that I may not need it. I'll just go easy and hope that I can reassemble by reversing the process.
Is this double-sided butyl tape the best for putting in the new glass or should I use something like silicon for water-tightness? TIA.

Andrew[_22_] March 29th 21 04:57 PM

Tips for removing window beadings
 
On 29/03/2021 14:26, Kal Ico wrote:
Thank you both for your replies - they are helpful.

I've acquired a multi-tool that I can use if necessary, but it sounds from what you say that I may not need it. I'll just go easy and hope that I can reassemble by reversing the process.
Is this double-sided butyl tape the best for putting in the new glass or should I use something like silicon for water-tightness? TIA.


The Jeld-wen (Boulton Paul) catalogue used to list kits of this
stuff for dry-glazing timber windows that were double glazed
but i haven't noticed it for quite a few years now.

Not sure where you might obtain it now. Local glazing firm
is your first port of call (if you have one) else Google.


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