Question is would PVA adhesive glue perspex sheet to wood at all,
slightly or well?

I am designing my own variation on a beehive that has an inspection
window. The hive boxes are softwood, glued with PVA for it's safe
non-toxic nature. I want to use 3mm perspex for the pane and I want to
glue and screw it in in such a way that it enhances the structure of the
box. Unlike for example a loose piece of glass which would require wood
and joints all round it to support it.

TW

On 04/09/2020 23:05, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 21:07:59 +0100, TimW wrote:

Question is would PVA adhesive glue perspex sheet to wood at all,
slightly or well?

I am designing my own variation on a beehive that has an inspection
window.

Make sure the window is removable, because you'll need to clean it
from time to time to get the wax and propolis off, otherwise it'll
become opaque and defeat the object of the exercise.

The hive boxes are softwood, glued with PVA for it's safe
non-toxic nature. I want to use 3mm perspex for the pane and I want to
glue and screw it in in such a way that it enhances the structure of the
box. Unlike for example a loose piece of glass which would require wood
and joints all round it to support it.

TW


These are Warre hives and new for me. The inspection window is a common
modification and they aren't removable for cleaning normally. In theory
you get the box back off the hive after 2 or 3 seasons with the Warre
system so I guess you would clean them then. I hear you can't see much
anyway but you can at least see if comb has been built without opening
the hive.

TW

No it won't work. I don't know if there is a glue that will, but an attempt
to put a window into a shed door failed. I ended up with some wood and some
bolts through te sandwich.
Brian

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"TimW" wrote in message
...
Question is would PVA adhesive glue perspex sheet to wood at all, slightly
or well?

I am designing my own variation on a beehive that has an inspection
window. The hive boxes are softwood, glued with PVA for it's safe
non-toxic nature. I want to use 3mm perspex for the pane and I want to
glue and screw it in in such a way that it enhances the structure of the
box. Unlike for example a loose piece of glass which would require wood
and joints all round it to support it.

TW

I guess a small camera and an infra red light might do the same job?
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"TimW" wrote in message
...
On 04/09/2020 23:05, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 21:07:59 +0100, TimW wrote:

Question is would PVA adhesive glue perspex sheet to wood at all,
slightly or well?

I am designing my own variation on a beehive that has an inspection
window.

Make sure the window is removable, because you'll need to clean it
from time to time to get the wax and propolis off, otherwise it'll
become opaque and defeat the object of the exercise.

The hive boxes are softwood, glued with PVA for it's safe
non-toxic nature. I want to use 3mm perspex for the pane and I want to
glue and screw it in in such a way that it enhances the structure of the
box. Unlike for example a loose piece of glass which would require wood
and joints all round it to support it.

TW


These are Warre hives and new for me. The inspection window is a common
modification and they aren't removable for cleaning normally. In theory
you get the box back off the hive after 2 or 3 seasons with the Warre
system so I guess you would clean them then. I hear you can't see much
anyway but you can at least see if comb has been built without opening the
hive.

TW

Hot glue gun type glue seems to work. We had a technician made some acrylic covers for some equipment and at the time we had no solvent glue in stock so as a temporary measure he used a glue gun which eventually became permanent and were still holding together years later after both he and I retired.. This was inside so i cannot vouch for the effects of weather.

Richard

On 04/09/2020 23:47, TimW wrote:
On 04/09/2020 23:05, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 21:07:59 +0100, TimW wrote:

Question is would PVA adhesive glue perspex sheet to wood at all,
slightly or well?

I am designing my own variation on a beehive that has an inspection
window.

Make sure the window is removable, because you'll need to clean it
from time to time to get the wax and propolis off, otherwise it'll
become opaque and defeat the object of the exercise.

The hive boxes are softwood, glued with PVA for it's safe
non-toxic nature. I want to use 3mm perspex for the pane and I want to
glue and screw it in in such a way that it enhances the structure of the
box. Unlike for example a loose piece of glass which would require wood
and joints all round it to support it.

TW


These are Warre hives and new for me. The inspection window is a common
modification and they aren't removable for cleaning normally. In theory
you get the box back off the hive after 2 or 3 seasons with the Warre
system so I guess you would clean them then. I hear you can't see much
anyway but you can at least see if comb has been built without opening
the hive.

TW

Difficult to comment without knowing a bit more about the materials,
construction, and any constraints. I'd have thought that with sufficient
screws you would have enough structural strength.

I'd think about using polycarbonate rather than perspex.

If you do need bonding from the adhesive I'd have thought that impact
adhesive would work, and that once the solvent had evaporated completely
there wouldn't be any toxicity. Maybe give it a few weeks? I guess hot
melt would also work (but I find that better for "single blobs" rather
than long bead type applications). If the window is lap jointed over a
hole in the wood panel I suppose you could add something like a weld
bead all around the edges on either or both sides.

On 05/09/2020 10:08, Brian Gaff wrote:
I guess a small camera and an infra red light might do the same job?
Brian

Good thinking!
Certainly I have seen hives where you can stick a smart phone in a slot
in the bottom to photograph or video what you can't see. What sort of
camera would be suitable do you think?
TW

On 05/09/2020 10:06, Brian Gaff wrote:
No it won't work. I don't know if there is a glue that will, but an attempt
to put a window into a shed door failed. I ended up with some wood and some
bolts through te sandwich.
Brian

Ta. Good to know (in advance)
TW

On 05/09/2020 10:06, Brian Gaff wrote:
No it won't work. I don't know if there is a glue that will, but an attempt
to put a window into a shed door failed. I ended up with some wood and some
bolts through te sandwich.
Brian

Hot glue will work.


--
"A point of view can be a dangerous luxury when substituted for insight
and understanding".

Marshall McLuhan

On Saturday, 5 September 2020 10:16:46 UTC+1, Tricky Dicky wrote:

Hot glue gun type glue seems to work. We had a technician made some acrylic covers for some equipment and at the time we had no solvent glue in stock so as a temporary measure he used a glue gun which eventually became permanent and were still holding together years later after both he and I retired. This was inside so i cannot vouch for the effects of weather.

Richard

Another method that works is to replace one wood slat with a perspex one. The plastic is relatively floppy, screws in oversize holes sorts that.


NT

On 05/09/2020 20:43, wrote:
On Saturday, 5 September 2020 10:16:46 UTC+1, Tricky Dicky wrote:

Hot glue gun type glue seems to work. We had a technician made some acrylic covers for some equipment and at the time we had no solvent glue in stock so as a temporary measure he used a glue gun which eventually became permanent and were still holding together years later after both he and I retired. This was inside so i cannot vouch for the effects of weather.

Richard

Another method that works is to replace one wood slat with a perspex one. The plastic is relatively floppy, screws in oversize holes sorts that.


wot slats?

On Saturday, 5 September 2020 10:16:46 UTC+1, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Hot glue gun type glue seems to work. We had a technician made some acrylic covers for some equipment and at the time we had no solvent glue in stock so as a temporary measure he used a glue gun which eventually became permanent and were still holding together years later after both he and I retired. This was inside so i cannot vouch for the effects of weather.

Richard

Bathroom sealant worked when I was making an incubator and I wanted to see what was happening.

Jonathan

On 05/09/2020 10:31, newshound wrote:


Difficult to comment without knowing a bit more about the materials,
construction, and any constraints. I'd have thought that with sufficient
screws you would have enough structural strength.

I'd think about using polycarbonate rather than perspex.


Yeah! the 3mm acrylic is rubbish. I broke two of the three pieces just
drilling and screwing it!

TW

TimW wrote:
On 05/09/2020 10:31, newshound wrote:


Difficult to comment without knowing a bit more about the materials,
construction, and any constraints. I'd have thought that with
sufficient screws you would have enough structural strength.

I'd think about using polycarbonate rather than perspex.


Yeah! the 3mm acrylic is rubbish. I broke two of the three pieces just
drilling and screwing it!

TW

For plastic work, I like these. Countersink bits.

https://images.homedepot-static.com/...03-64_1000.jpg

I'm not using the "chewy" part, the collar that does
the countersinking. I've pushed that away from the work
and closer to the drill chuck.

To drill a hole in plastic, start with one of the
smaller bits you've got. Say a 1/16th inch regular HSS.
Drills tend to skate on plastic, and a smaller drill bit
might stay put. That's your pilot hole, for anti-skate.

Then, using your first countersink bit, "ream" out the hole.
Stop before you get to the desired diameter. If you try
to advance the bit too fast, it heats up and fills the
cutting part with molten plastic.

I made LED lights for the bicycle, and the light was a
light array. To mount the array, I used perspex sheet and
drilled 48 holes in it (a bag of LEDs...). The holes are
perfect and didn't crack the plastic. But it did take
a while to drill the 12 x 4 matrix.

Regular drill bits, they catch in the work and crack it.
That's how I ruined the first one.

And no matter what kind of drill bit you use, they tend
to clog with molten plastic and then need cleaning. You're
constantly cleaning the blasted things.

I don't have a whole set of countersink bits, just two
bought individually, so I lack a nice selection for easy work.
I can't go all the way up through the drill index sizes that
way, because my set isn't complete.

Once you're close to the correct size, you'll still need
a regular drill bit to make the hole the same diameter
all the way through. Which may or may not be important,
depending on what you're doing. At the larger bit sizes,
the regular bit can still catch in the work and crack it.
Even with a very nice pilot hole to guide it, there's
still a risk.

And polycarbonate ? Try drilling a CD first, and maybe that'll save
you buying a sheet of the stuff somewhere. See if you like it.

If you drill a deep enough hole in plastic, it will
"pull off to the side". If tapping a hole and attempting
to place a bolt in the freshly tapped hole, you may notice
"****, the bolt is binding". Attempts to run the tap through
again, still find the bolt binding. This happens because your
hole actually zings off square. And the bolt going into
the threaded hole, the hole is crooked so the bolt binds.

The end result is, for a tapped hole, tap to a depth of
one inch, and use half inch bolts (in other words, use only
half of the threaded portion, the half that still runs true).

I use #2 SS bolts and buy perspex thick enough to use them. I
can make screw-together boxes out of perspex that way.

The machinist made beautiful slabs for gluing, and his
work is so nice, you could make an aquarium without screws.
Just using subtractive glue and his nicely milled edges
was enough. That's how my low pressure laser cavity was
made (ran at 1 torr). My technique here is bad enough,
that would never work. That's why I just screw them together
and they're not watertight.

Paul

On Friday, 11 September 2020 06:26:02 UTC+1, Paul wrote:

To drill a hole in plastic, start with one of the
smaller bits you've got. Say a 1/16th inch regular HSS.
Drills tend to skate on plastic, and a smaller drill bit
might stay put. That's your pilot hole, for anti-skate.

Then, using your first countersink bit, "ream" out the hole.
Stop before you get to the desired diameter. If you try
to advance the bit too fast, it heats up and fills the
cutting part with molten plastic.

I made LED lights for the bicycle, and the light was a
light array. To mount the array, I used perspex sheet and
drilled 48 holes in it (a bag of LEDs...). The holes are
perfect and didn't crack the plastic. But it did take
a while to drill the 12 x 4 matrix.

Regular drill bits, they catch in the work and crack it.
That's how I ruined the first one.

And no matter what kind of drill bit you use, they tend
to clog with molten plastic and then need cleaning. You're
constantly cleaning the blasted things.

I don't have a whole set of countersink bits, just two
bought individually, so I lack a nice selection for easy work.
I can't go all the way up through the drill index sizes that
way, because my set isn't complete.

Once you're close to the correct size, you'll still need
a regular drill bit to make the hole the same diameter
all the way through. Which may or may not be important,
depending on what you're doing. At the larger bit sizes,
the regular bit can still catch in the work and crack it.
Even with a very nice pilot hole to guide it, there's
still a risk.

Why do people make life so hard for themselves. Use a very small abrasive stone in a dremel to melt your way through & there's no risk of cracking, unless you do something stupid.


NT

Drilling Acrylic requires a drill point about 60deg compared to the standard 118deg of a standard twist drill and the drill should have whats called a slow spiral flute.

Richard