Water Damage to Kitchen Worktop
 

A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
worktop is a non-starter, i just could not face it after taking such a
long time to complete the kitchen!
I would be very grateful for your help. Regards, Simon

Simon Mogridge wrote:
A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
worktop is a non-starter, i just could not face it after taking such a
long time to complete the kitchen!

You have a problem.

If you can get to the back of the worktop, then carefully removing all
of the chipboard in the area of the blister, without going through the
surface.
Now, fill.
Every time you put kitchen units or worktops in, I'd strongly recommend
coating the edges with several coats of an exterior oil-based waterproofer.

This will mean that it won't suck water up like a sponge.

Do you have a spare bit of the worktop?
You might try various fixes on it.
I'd try setting an iron on 130-150C, and pressing it on for half an hour.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Simon Mogridge wrote:

A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
worktop is a non-starter, i just could not face it after taking such a
long time to complete the kitchen!
I would be very grateful for your help. Regards, Simon

Sadly, there's not a lot you can do. Once chipboard gets wet and swells up,
there's no going back.

When joining raw edges of worktop, it is usual to coat both with a thin
layer of clear silicon sealant - most of which gets squeezed out and wiped
off when you do the clamps up - but it helps to stop any damp getting in.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Being into the 5th week of my kitchen install and in the midst of doing the
worktops, you have my greatest sympathy Simon! You must be gutted.
This is the one area that I'm least confident of success, particularly as I
have to do a join under the sink! (see other post)

Best insurance seems to be in the sealing. I notice Set Square says 'most of
which (silicon) gets squeezed out', so I wonder if waterproof PVA wouldn't
do a better, and deeper, seal?

Did you seal the end when you installed and what with?

Steve

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Simon Mogridge wrote:

A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
worktop is a non-starter, i just could not face it after taking such a
long time to complete the kitchen!
I would be very grateful for your help. Regards, Simon

Sadly, there's not a lot you can do. Once chipboard gets wet and swells
up,
there's no going back.

When joining raw edges of worktop, it is usual to coat both with a thin
layer of clear silicon sealant - most of which gets squeezed out and wiped
off when you do the clamps up - but it helps to stop any damp getting in.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Yebligs wrote:

Best insurance seems to be in the sealing. I notice Set Square says 'most of
which (silicon) gets squeezed out', so I wonder if waterproof PVA wouldn't
do a better, and deeper, seal?

No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact that
most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.

--
Grunff

No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact that
most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.

--
Grunff

Use both: seal the edges (I use two or three coats of solvent-based
polyurethane varnish) then clear silicone when fitting.

Tony Bryer wrote:

A tip I got off a website was when you do this to sprinkle sawdust on
the join (after assembly of course): it takes off all the excess
silicone nice and cleanly.


I used to hate using silicone, always made a mess - until I discovered a
solvent that removes it (when fresh, not set). Once you have this,
cleanup becomes so much easier. I can honestly say it changed my life.


--
Grunff

In article , Grunff wrote:
No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact
that most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.

A tip I got off a website was when you do this to sprinkle sawdust on
the join (after assembly of course): it takes off all the excess
silicone nice and cleanly.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm

No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact that
most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.

--
Grunff

Use both: seal the edges (I use two or three coats of solvent-based
polyurethane varnish) then clear silicone when fitting.

Just cut a worktop myself (how hard are these things! - I blunted 2 laminate
jigsaw blades cutting 1 length and a sink cutout!), the leaflet inside the
plastic cover said "it is good practice to put 2 coats of varnish 50mm
around all cut edges". The pipe cutouts in the white carcasses I just
smeared with white silicone (white to try and hide some of the chips the
jigsaw made :o)

rrh wrote:
Grunf? wrote:
No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it
gets squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends.

Use both: seal the edges (I use two or three coats of solvent-
based polyurethane varnish) then clear silicone when fitting.

That is the best way to do it. You can also use gloss paint.



J.B.

sprinkle sawdust on the join
That's handy. Having just cut my worktops, I seem to have a bit of a surplus
of that here at the moment!
Cough, sneeze, snuffle :-)

Simon Mogridge wrote:

A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the

Not tried this - so have a go on some scrap worktop first to see how
well it will work!

If you have a router and a set of inlay cutter bushes, say:-

http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=GBCOLL7914

It may be possible to machine out a section of the laminate, rebate the
swolen chipboard to a depth where it is sound, fill, and then relaminate
with a section cut from a bit of scrap. Not a simple task but might work.


--
Cheers,

John.

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Grunff wrote in message ...
Tony Bryer wrote:

A tip I got off a website was when you do this to sprinkle sawdust on
the join (after assembly of course): it takes off all the excess
silicone nice and cleanly.


I used to hate using silicone, always made a mess - until I discovered a
solvent that removes it (when fresh, not set). Once you have this,
cleanup becomes so much easier. I can honestly say it changed my life.

So what's the solvent?!

MBQ

MBQ wrote:

So what's the solvent?!

Isopropanol.

--
Grunff

John Rumm wrote in message ...
Simon Mogridge wrote:

A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the

Not tried this - so have a go on some scrap worktop first to see how
well it will work!

If you have a router and a set of inlay cutter bushes, say:-

http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=GBCOLL7914

It may be possible to machine out a section of the laminate, rebate the
swolen chipboard to a depth where it is sound, fill, and then relaminate
with a section cut from a bit of scrap. Not a simple task but might work.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Thanks for all your advice. I did use the glue/sealent which came
with the worktop and i was sure the seal was good! Oh well....I will
try the iron set low first and then Johns fix with a router. God help
me. Cheers, Simon

On 2 Sep 2004 11:46:45 -0700, (Simon
Mogridge) wrote:

Thanks for all your advice. I did use the glue/sealent which came
with the worktop and i was sure the seal was good! Oh well....I will
try the iron set low first and then Johns fix with a router. God help
me. Cheers, Simon

Hi,

Epoxy would do a good job of sealing the chipboard.

cheers,
Pete.

Water Damage to Kitchen Worktop
 

replying to Tony Bryer, Miss Stephanie Conduit wrote:
Furniture polish breaks down the silicone and then its a quick wipe up job.
Just spray on the area and leave for 5-10 mins and get a cloth and any excess
should come away really easily. 😃
Great for annoying sticky labels on things too! ðŸ¤*
Sorry to interupt

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Water Damage to Kitchen Worktop
 

On 16/07/2018 22:14, Miss Stephanie Conduit wrote:

Sorry to interupt


Very difficult to interrupt a conversation that ended 14 years ago.
Please check the dates of the article you are referencing.


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Water Damage to Kitchen Worktop
 

Its no good for some reason certain web interfaces ignore the year when
sorting messages. I'd like to see the authors of said portals first against
the wall when the revolution comes to coin a phrase.
Brian

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"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 16/07/2018 22:14, Miss Stephanie Conduit wrote:

Sorry to interupt


Very difficult to interrupt a conversation that ended 14 years ago.
Please check the dates of the article you are referencing.


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